[RCSE] Fixer upper Pike Perfect
Tony, Hey, In that picture I think I see a goodnever mind. Tom Koszuta - Original Message - From: tony estep To: Soaring@airage.com Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 8:06 PM Subject: Re: [RCSE] Looking for a contest plane Here's a Pike Perfect, a little bit of a fixer-upper: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1806429
Re: [RCSE] Looking for Carbon plate?
My usual place to get CF strips for spars is Aerospace Composite Products http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-gp.htm Good prices excellent service. But The Composite Store has more on the thinner side http://www.cstsales.com/carbon_plate.html I've kept the link, but have not ever ordered from them. Tom Koszuta Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers Buffalo, NY - Original Message - heavily cropped From: Craig Allen So I'm looking for some pre-made Carbon sheet 1/8 or 3/16 thick 2 to 3 inches wide and maybe 1 ft long to cut new control horns and bell-cranks out of. So if you know of a supplier I would greatly appreciate it :-)
[RCSE] Who's still selling obechi?
I know this comes up a couple times a year, but I lost my list. If you sell or know who sells obechi, please let me know. Thanks, Tom Koszuta Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers Buffalo, NY
[RCSE] I know its early, but have the dates for the 2008 Nats been set?
My son's scout troop is starting to plan a week in the mountains around the end of July next year and I am trying to figure out if I can participate. It would just figure that it would be the same week as the soaring Nats. Tom Koszuta Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers Buffalo, NY
[RCSE] Netrual point calculation question
Model Aircraft Aerodynamics by Martin Simons has a set of formulas in one of the Appendices that allows you to calculate the approximate neutral point and static margin of an aircraft. One of the parameters is the "length of the tail arm". It does not indicate exactly what this means. I am presuming that it is one of center of wing to center of stab, quarter chord line to quarter chord line, or wing TE to stab LE. Can anyone shed some light on this? Alternatively, his example uses a plane called a Bantam with a 1.25M span, which he quotes the tail arm to be 0.557M. If anyone has one of these and can measure, that would also be appreciated. I know that I can always start with the most conservative answer and work from there, but the engineer in me needs a more exact basis for my calculations. Tom KoszutaClarence Sailplane Society(Buffalo) NY
Re: [RCSE] WTB-- Zagi
finish that, fly thermal and light slope, and finish the Zagi later. You probably don't need the carbonized version of the Zagi. Take a good look at the less expensive versions. You picked a good pasttime that has a lot of good people and 9 out of 10 of them are more than will willing and able to help you join the ranks of modelers who can keep a silent plane in the air without a motor. Good luck in your adventures. You WILL have fun flying little planes. You have no choice in that. Tom Koszuta Clarence Sailplane Society (Buffalo) NY - Original Message - From: Will Kessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 1:49 PM Subject: [RCSE] WTB-- Zagi Hello, I am a total soaring beginner in Northern California. I'm building a Gentle Lady, but I've been advised by a friend that that's a very frustrating route to getting into the sport. So, I'm looking to buy a Zagi to learn the ropes. Having already purchased the Gentle Lady and related building supplies, now my budget is somewhat limited, I'm afraid, so I'm hoping someone may have a used one they'd be willing to part with for less than a new Zagi (or a Boomerang or something similar). A decent flyer that's also a total beater is what I'm after. I don't have a controller, receiver or servos yet either. For reference, a new Zagi 3-C Combo kit sold on www.zagi.com, with everything you need to fly, costs $140-- but that's too high for me right now :-( If you would be interested in selling any of these items to me, please contact me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks very much! Regards, Will Kessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Re: Foam cutting
Tony, Make atransition ramp smoother. If a program is making it a sudden transition, redo it into a smooth one. I agree with one of the other replies that if you do the TE first that the wire may separate from the templates at the end of the travel. Stick with what's proven (or use really cheap foam for a test subject). Tom Koszuta Buffalo, NY - Original Message - From: Tony J. O'Hara [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Soaring List server [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 01:30 PM Subject: [RCSE] Re: Foam cutting I am trying to refine my foam cutting technique and am having a problem getting a smooth cut at the start of leading edge on the top surface pass. (Elsewhere is OK) Compufoil template shapes have a horizontal step/ramp up to the leading edge slope, thus making an abrupt angle transition. This transition seems to be causing my hot wire to catch and vibrate causing significant ridges in the cut foam at this important location. How do you cope with that? Is there any reason I cannot make the ramp an extension of the leading edge curve to avoid this angle transition and hence twanging of the wire?? I do cut the bottom surface first then the top, and start at the leading edge per compufoil recommendations. Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks regards Tony Colorado RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Tip Stall or -
It does sound like tip stall, Bill. Moving the CG forward will only make the plane less maneuverable. As far as what to do about the wing - Did you like anything about it? That is the first question you need to answer before repairing it. Since you already are repairing it, I guess that you will answer yes. I have a THICK wing on an old HOB 2x2 that I keep repairing because it goes up on light lift, is tough, and I have a so what if it ends up a pile of toothpicks attitude toward it. (But notice that I keep repairing it - wind eats airplanes ;) Second - washout will help. But so will flying the plane faster. Try the washout, but don't get carried away. At high speeds the washout will actually cause the tip to lift downward. Since it is tip stalling, you are most likely flying slow and the washout will help more than hurt. Any chance that there was accidental wash-IN? Lastly - I would suggest getting the plans for a better wing or more suitable plane for where you fly. It costs more and there is emotional attachment to the other plane - no matter how bad it flies - but in the long term, you will be happier flying it. A good foam wing is an excellent investment for slope flying cuz wind eats (built-up) airplanes. Good luck. Tom Koszuta Buffalo, NY - Original Message - From: Bill Kuhl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2001 9:26 AM Subject: [RCSE] Tip Stall or - When a crash is a good thing. Flew my Primera two-meter on a slope yesterday, and as luck would have it, hit a post on landing. The damage was just in one wing section, which I started repairing. Noted the wing has a very large hardwood spar which was good to see, but is also why the wing is rather heavy, the chord is also rather narrow. The thought occurred to me, that I have another wing from an Eclipse two-meter electric that might work, even matching colors. Sure enough the wing would work, although it extended back past the wing saddle. It was really windy by now, but I just had to try flying with the new wing. Hand tossing showed that the plane flew better on this wing. Was even able to climb in thermals from a handlaunch. About the Tip Stall The original wing had a tip stall problem, was thinking of trying to warp some washout into it. Flying with the new wing the tip stall problem was very much improved. The new wing had a thicker section, a wider chord which moved CG forward, and a lower wing loading and lower aspect ratio. My question is; should I try washout in the original wing when repaired, move the CG farther forward, or continue to use the new wing. Problem with the new wing is that it is one-piece. Or maybe I should build a whole new wing. Thanks, Bill Kuhl RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Vacuum pump
14.696 inHg = 760 Torr (1 atmosphere - standard pressure) 0.1 mTorr = 14.696/760/1000*0.1 in Hg 0.1 mTorr = 1.9 x 10 ^ -6 inHg (about 2 millionths of an inch of mercury) That should be plenty of vacuum for you. Tom Koszuta Buffalo, NY - Original Message - From: "David J. Schat" [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 2:36 PM Subject: [RCSE] Vacuum pump I found info on it but need some translation... it has a spec of GUARANTEED ULTIMATE PRESSURE (millitorr) of 0.1 but no spec on inches Hg Anyone know what this is? RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
