Re: [RCSE] AVA vs Bubble Dancer - Buy vs. Build
Well, I don't know the exact definition of woody, but the Ava's wing and tail surfaces are primarily wood with carbon reinforcement. Unless that d-tube doesn't have any sheeting under it, and I'm not submitting mine for surgery. (hmm.., it's unpleasant but I could dig out those smashed tips and look at the inner panels). What the Ava most definitely is NOT is an EXACT copy of a Bubble Dancer, although certainly there is a high level of imitation. I suspect that if you could measure precisely enough, you would find that Mark's Bubble Dancer (as built by Mark) has performance numbers a little bit better than those of the Ava. For one thing, the "foil" shape on the tail is very different. Plus, the Bubble Dancer's tips have d-tube sheeting and the Ava's do not. (I have heard (or perhaps read?) Mark comment on the performance penalty of not sheeting tips a number of times.) Structurally, if I recall correctly the sheeting on the Bubble Dancer is just wood, while there's carbon-kevlar cloth on the outside of the Ava's d-tube. Also, I think the Bubble Dancer uses hefty wood ribs and substantial wood trailing edge where the Ava uses skinny wood with carbon cap strips. Hence the infamous picture of the buckling Ava t.e. on landing. I can tell you that it seems sturdy when it's in one piece but it kind! of crumbles when you break it. Which is ok if you're just going to buy replacement parts. The Ava is built to a high level of workmanship, and I think you'd have to build a Bubble Dancer to nearly the same level if you wanted to exceed the Ava's performance. On the other hand, I think the Ava is close enough that you shouldn't feel handicapped or use it for excuses. It flies very well. Using it for my LSF hour flight felt like cheating. Original message >Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:45:37 -0400 >From: "TJB" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [RCSE] AVA vs Bubble Dancer - Buy vs. Build >To: "Ed Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,,<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >The AVA is not a woody, so the Bubble Dancer (Mike L won the RES NATS with >his) is the best choice if you want to compete in woody events. > >T >- Original Message - >From: "Ed Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 7:34 AM >Subject: [RCSE] AVA vs Bubble Dancer - Buy vs. Build > > >> Lincoln, >> >> Build vs. buy; is it just an economic question? >> >> As we all know, the AVA is almost an exact copy of Mark Drela's Bubble >> Dancer. It is a little bigger and a little heavier, but other than that, >> we >> can consider it the Bubble Dancer ARF. But is it a good value, or is it a >> high priced package? >> >> A group of guys at my club got together and made up Bubble Dancer kits >> this >> past winter, five of them. It included a premade molded fuselage and >> boom. >> To create the kits cost around $310. I don't know how long the build >> took. >> I bought one of the kits, took a look at the build, and sold the kit to >> another club member. I bought an AVA. I am not a builder, and that build >> would have been way over my head. For me the cost of the ARF was cheap >> compared to the time investment to build. >> >> Denny, at www.polecataero.com was selling an EZBD kit for a while for >> $340. >> Based on the work my club members did to create those kits, Denny's kit >> seems very reasonable in price. And he claims it is a faster build. >> Based >> on the quality of his other planes, I would trust a kit from Polecat. >> >> Now, if someone likes the AVA and wants to build it for themselves, then >> build the Bubble Dancer. Based on what I have seen at the field, the >> Bubble >> Dancer is just as much of a super ship as the ARFs that copy it. And, it >> is >> a real "builder's" plane. But it takes a lot of work time to build. If >> building is your pleasure, it is time is well spent. However if you look >> at >> it as time equals money or building time subtracts from other activities, >> then you are doing a make/buy economic decision. >> >> If you take the time to build a Bubble Dancer into account, I agree, the >> AVA, the Topaz, the Soprano and similar ships are a real good value. >> Unless >> you love to build, there is little economic justification to building the >> kit over the available high quality ARFs. If you love to build, then the >> hours spent building are a joy in itself and the money saved is of no >> importance and an AVA offers little value to someone who loves to build. >> >> Ed Anderson >> >>> Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 00:17:05 -0400 >>> From: Lincoln Ross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> To: Soaring@airage.com >>> Subject: re: RES vs UNL vs DLG >>> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> >>> First off, let's put my alleged divinity aside for the duration of this >>> post. >>> >>> People whine too loudly about the super ships in RES. I've beaten some >>> of them with 25 year old pieces of crap. On a good day it doesn't matter >>> that much. Unless
[RCSE] Re: WTB AVA
I know you weren't asking me, but I am going to try splitting the spoilers on mine. I find that with the one big spoiler, the pitch changes are extreme, and if enough compensation is used the initial pitch up is really annoying. I didn't learn how to land it well before I busted it, but it sure flew well. I laid up a larger ballast tube out of some carbon I had lying around. I'm sure fiberglass would make a fine tube as well. I think the tow hook as supplied, as with most RC gliders, is bigger and heavier than it has to be. But then, I drive a Saturn instead of an SUV... I just glued in a block of wood and screwed in my standard bent cup hook towhook. You may need to work on the joiners and their boxes a little bit to get the wings to assemble well. Sand them or something, but carefully, with a block of some sort. That's all I remember right now. Norm wrote: >Are ther any mods that should be done to the AVA ? or = >any assembly tricks I should know? >Norm D RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] RES vs UNL vs DLG
Hmmm... I've never been accused of divinity before. If I'm divine, where are my powers? Members of CRRC with long memories will attest that I've made quite a few long flights with mine. And I built it from the kit, myself. Perhaps the slightly extended wing tips explain it all and I'm just an ordinary mortal. As a test, I will attempt to levitate all homemade, balsa Skeeters. If you see yours on the ceiling, with no other explanation, you'll know it's all true. (I hope I wasn't keeping anything on top of mine. Might really mess things up in the garage.) >> From: "Bill's Email" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> snip>> Subject: Re: [RCSE] RES vs UNL vs DLG >> >I think it is abundantly clear the path that is needed to be taken in >> >soaring to restore it to all its glory. Yes, I am talking about the >> >complete prohibition of all but one aircraft from soaring competition. >> > >> > The one and only aircraft that shall be used is the venerable Skeeter, and >> > it MUST be built by the pilot. This will restore the need for building >> > skills and also positively determine who the best pilot is. Anyone who can >> > keep a Skeeter aloft from more than a few minutes truly is a a soaring >> > God!! >> > >> > So there it is, the salvation of soaring is the Skeeter. Who'd a thunk >> > it?? RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] more programming questions, Vision this time
It's been a long time since I programmed a Vision. I'm using the flap channel to do spoilers. If I'm not mistaken, it seems like there's no way to adjust the flaps up/spoiler retracted position except mechanically THis doesn't seem right. (Don't get me started on v-tail mixing!) RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: written communication nuances
That's what education was for. We're supposed to know how to read and write effectively. If we can't write with nuances, we can't write jokes. If someone is reading one of my posts and steam starts coming out of their ears, most of the time they can most easily remedy this by reading it again, carefully. It's not that I don't make a big mistake once in a while, but generally I'm just trying to lead the reader a ways down the garden path before revealing the punchline. Also, generally, I read the messages over several times before sending them. (hint: If you see words like "organic", "idiot", "goat", "vegan", "cannibal", "unobtainium", "bozo", etc., be suspicious. Chances are I'm pulling your leg. Unless I'm talking about CJD, kuru, etc. Or politics. Come to think of it, is there much difference?) Carlos Reyes wrote: This is a surprisingly common problem. I read a research report once that studied the effectiveness of written communication. I forget the exact details, but a major finding was that most of the time the reader *thinks* they understood the intended meaning and emotion, when in fact they didn't. I've learned to be careful in jumping to conclusions and to be very clear in what I write. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Ava tape
Thanks guys. I've been using electrical tape, and sometimes even have stuck it once on my pants to reduce the stick, but it's still been a problem. So I'll probably add a bit of extra as mentioned below. Perhaps I will put some of that book tape as the permanent part. Original message snip > >From: Craig Allen wrote: > >What you do is put one layer of tape on each panel before you put them >together . Be careful to not tape the spoiler down :-) That way when you put >the wing tips on you are taping to the existing tape and it doesn't pull the >covering off... > >Been doing it like this for 3 years with no problems... > >Craig > snip -- "Jim Porter" or was it "Dave Corven" wrote: > >Jim, I have been using the crystal clear tape for the under layer and the >upper or hold together layer, on everything, painted or moneycoated surfaces >alike. > >On painted surfaces it does not pull up paint. The covering on AVA's is >Oracover, which is sold here in the States as Hanger Nine Lite, I think. > >Regards, Dave Corven. > -- Original message -- >From: "Jim Porter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> snip >> >> You need to use an underlayer of tape to protect the covering and/or paint. >> The 3M tape that comes with the purple plaid insert in the dispenser, Satin >> Tape, 3/4" wide, available at most office supply stores. The advantages of >> this tape are; thin, frosty finish so that the tape actually used to hold >> the panels together peels off cleanly. >> >> Apply a full width to both sides of the joint, starting at the hinge line >> and wrapping around the leading edge an inch or so. >> >> I believe that most fliers use to strong a tape to hold the together. On a >> hard landing I like to see the tape split as this dissipates quite a bit of >> energy - even though removing the split tape is a PITA. >> >> I use the 3M Crystal Clear tape to hold the panels together. >> >> Your mileage may vary. >> >> Jim Porter >> Johnston Iowa USA >> snip RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] "YOU can break Carbon rod for stab
You are such an idiot that I feel it necessary to demonstrate. Therefore please make up such a rod which will fit my Chicago Style and I will test it thoroughly until it breaks. While you're at it, could you make a spare? Thanks!;-) More seriously, in the larger sizes, where the brass wall isn't so thick, that's probably a good idea. Bill Wingstedt wrote: I had to put a carbon rod into service as a stab axle once. All I had was one of insufficient diameter. Luckily, I had a piece of brass tubing that it fit into perfectly, and the brass tube fit perfectly into the carriers in the stabs. I thought this was a perfect marriage of the stiffness of the carbon and the pliable durability of the brass. The brass tube kept the carbon from bending and the brass tube kept the carbon from getting nicked and precluded the eventuality of it breaking. I've probably exposed myself to the risk of being called an idiot by the ravaging hordes of engineers that patrol RCSE, armed as they are with equations and wielding calculators, and I am probably guilty of that, but I can say that I have lived to tell the tale. Bill Wingstedt RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] what tape for Ava tips so they don't peel?
Have been flying the Ava some more. What kind of tape do people use on the tips so that the edge of the covering doesn't peel up? I've been having that problem. Or perhaps I should run a bit of thin CA to seal the edges?? BTW, I saw that video of the guy launching his Ava like a DLG. It's really more like a hammer throw, as the idea is to use a loop of line from your hand to the tow hook and just hold the tip in place. Anyway, I tried it and it works fine, but it didn't somehow feel right so I didn't put any power in it. Got maybe 30 or 40 feet anyway. Suspect over 100 is possible if you pull out the stops. No wobbles or anything. Even tho my cg is quite conservative, however, it doesn't pull up much. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Re: Airfoil flight comparison( HN-216)?
Connect the switch to a miniaturized "fence charger" connected to two metal bits, right where you hold the plane to launch. You will probably not launch that way, and you will probably not forget to turn on the tx even when you're launching some other glider. As long as you remembered to be careful and not hold that spot, you could go ahead and load the thing in the car. Have it turn off after a while if another tilt switch cycle doesn't occur. Alternatively, you could just hook the switch to a tiny speaker playing emetic music. I'm not sure, though, that the one form of hurling is conducive to the other. On the other hand, the simple way is probably to use a jack switch like the dlg guys use and hook up something really obnoxious to the end of the red streamer. Like a softball on about two feet of string. Or maybe just something heavy enough to pull out the plug when you pick up the glider. Original message >Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 14:12:36 -0600 >From: Doug McLaren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [RCSE] Re: Airfoil flight comparison( HN-216)? >To: Anker Berg-Sonne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: David Webb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,[EMAIL PROTECTED],Soaring@airage.com > >On Fri, Feb 01, 2008 at 10:31:59AM -0500, Anker Berg-Sonne wrote: > >> There are so many ways launches can go wrong that your proposed device may >> save you from one problem, but the others will be sure to bite you instead. > >Not only that, but if your plane is ever tilted at that angle as you >carry it to or put it into your car, it may turn itself on when you >don't expect it, leading to a dead (or worse -- _almost_ dead) battery >when you're actually ready to fly. > >Or it may turn itself on and do damage as the servos glitch because >the TX isn't on. > >Perhaps you could design around this, but then perhaps not all >launches would trigger it, if you make it *too* picky? > >Just wiggle your sticks a little before you launch. (For bonus >points, make sure the sticks do the right thing on the plane, every >flight!) If it costs a pilot a Gentle Lady to learn this lesson, then >they got off cheap! (If it costs them a Pike, well, ouch, but they'll >probably remember!) > >Personally, I've never done it with a glider, but I did do it with a >nitro R/C car once. Chasing a R/C car doing donuts at 30 mph in your >front yard = fun! All that was lacking was the Benny Hill music! >Fortunately, the curb finally intervened to stop the car (and rip out >half the screws and bolts in the car in the process ...) > >If you do decide to make this device, I'd suggest at least adding an >audible alarm that goes off when the plane is turned on by it, that >runs until the plane is turned on in the proper way (or the battery >dies, of course.) That way, people will know that they forgot (and >that your device just saved their plane!) when it activates when >needed, and they'll know that they need to go turn the plane off again >if it activates accidently. > >-- >Doug McLaren, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gone crazy - back later! RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Old Old Servo Arms needed :-)
Can't help. Only have the old square ones. They are old enough that I don't know if I'd trust them not to be brittle. Craig Allen wrote: > I found this post on the Australian version of RCSE... > Kind of got a kick out of it... Hell, maybe one of you can help this poor guy > out :-) > >Craig > > > > Wanted old servo armsPosted by: > "vh4143" [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:56 am(PST) > G'day all and all the best for the new year. > > My old KRAFT gear is still going strong and is OK for gliders and some > power models. So from time to time I have inherited some old but good > stuff over the years. Some as spare parts and some useful. > > A project that is in the wind I will need to buy a new wireless set. > Even my JR is approaching its 21st birthday. > > I have 2 KPS-30 servos and very few arms. > > Would any one have any servo arms to fit these oldies. > > I believe that were made by Multiplex and re badged by KRAFT. They > have a black case, quite different from the KRAFT mustard. > > The spline output on the servo measures 4.86mm. > > If any one has any to trade or sell I would like to hear from you. > They are not the usual JR splines > > Cheers and thanks in advance jq > > > >--0-212561661-1198770163=:96850 >Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > I found >this post on the Australian version of RCSE... Kind of got a kick out of it... >Hell, maybe one of you can help this poor guy out >:-)Craig > href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rcsoaringoz/message/2755;_ylc=X3oDMTJxc2NqdjI5BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzM4MjcyNTEEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MzcwODA4BG1zZ0lkAzI3NTUEc2VjA2Rtc2cEc2xrA3Ztc2cEc3RpbWUDMTE5ODc0NTY2NQ--"; > name="1"> id="lw_1198769826_4">Wanted old servo arms >Posted by: "vh4143" mailto:[EMAIL >PROTECTED] Re%3AWanted%20old%20servo%20arms" target="_blank" > href="[EMAIL PROTECTED]&Subj=%20Re%3AWanted%20old%20servo%20arms"> > id="lw_1198769826_5">[EMAIL PROTECTED] > href="http://profiles.yahoo.com/vh4143";> > Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:56 am > (PST) G'day all and all > the best for the new year. My old KRAFT gear is still going strong > and is OK for gliders and some power models. So from > time to time I have inherited some old but good stuff over the years. > Some as spare parts and some useful. A project that is in the wind I > will need to buy a new wireless set. Even my JR is approaching its 21st > birthday. I have 2 KPS-30 servos and very few arms. Would > any one have any servo arms to fit these oldies. I believe that were > made by Multiplex and re badged by KRAFT. They have a black case, quite > different from the KRAFT mustard. The spline output on the servo > measures 4.86mm. If any one has any to trade or sell I would like to > hear from you. They are not the usual JR splines Cheers and > thanks in advance jq >--0-212561661-1198770163=:96850-- > >-- > >End of Soaring V1 #10572 > >RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and >"unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and >unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. >Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in >text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Post curing West System 105/206
Are you completely set on using West? As I recall (although I don't recall where the numberrs come from) West System doesn't develop properties with post curing as nice as some other epoxies. For instance, I have an epoxy mix picked up from a boatbuilder I know which has a considerably higher glass transition temperature after post cure. ( but again, it's been so long I don't recall exactly what those properties or cure temps are). For a small job like this, I'd probably use Phase Two from an outfit called System Three. You will get a paper telling you exactly how to postcure it. (Two hours at 140F, but it has to be that warm all the way through). An unusual property is that it becomes relatively opaque because of the two phases, which are supposed to make it tougher than a singly phase epoxy. Not sure if this works in terms of strength and toughness, but it handles ok. Heat deflection temp claimed as 64C (147F) For a big job I'd go back to that boatbuilder I know or else look into Raka as mentioned below. If I thought the volume was going to be pretty high I'd definitely look into prepregs. Probably save a lot of labor and get better properties too, although I haven't played with prepregs yet. Your oven might not be enough for them, though. I seem to recall MGS (sp?) epoxies are made for postcure as well. You might try Raka. The proprieter is willing to talk to you on the phone, and can recommend temperatures etc. for various epoxies he has. If you pick the right materials and cure it right, you can use colors other than white, although I certainly wouldn't do it with West. If you must use West, it sounds like 120F for 4 to 8 hours is good. I found it in the following newsletter from West: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/18/pdf/tanks.pdf Now, some of that epoxy is mixed slightly different, but not much. Don't exceed 140F: http://westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/moreinfo/coldtemp.htm (that's a clue that you may not get great thermal properties) Note that, according to the physical properties on the West site, 105/206 is only good for 123F heat deflection temperature. That's why we need to keep it white! I think, given the labor involved, that if the results are important it's a false economy to use the epoxy on hand. Nothing wrong with WEST if you aren't going to use the result in high temps or need really high properties in the resin. In that case I'd use the ordinary version of RAKA because I've used it with good results in the past and it was cheaper. I realize that you probably have 10X the practical experience laying up glass stuff that I have, but I've looked into the post curing thing a little bit. Even if you stick with WEST, if you get it to 100F overnight it will be reasonably well cured overnight. But I understand post curing works best AFTER the initial cure. Bill & Bunny Kuhlman wrote: Granddaughter Alyssa and I are involved in vacuum bagging processes: carbon fiber spar caps, fiberglass over foam flying surfaces, and a molded all glass fuselage pod and boom. We're using West System 105/206 for all of the components. We know that post curing - higher than room temperature heat over several hours to a full day - will make the epoxy matrix stronger, but after a long web search have been unable to get firm numbers for either the temperature required or the recommended time period. If anyone can pass on this information, we'd very much appreciate it. We have our "hot box" made and can take it up to 160 degrees F. Many thanks in advance! -- Bill & Bunny Kuhlman RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Icon 2
Did they design a supply of football players to launch this thing in F3J? I imagine anyone less than 300 lbs is going to be lofted, with that kind of span.Just be sure to let go before you're 10 feet off the ground. someone wrote: >Get in line folks - this is gonna be a biggy, both literally and figuratively. >Designed by the intrepid Dr. Mark Drela, this new high aspect ratio >F3J/Thermal >Duration plane has a wing span of 150" (3.81 m) and a VERY slender 2.4 >friendly >pod and carbon boom. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Supra or Onyx JW, these are "Me-Too Designs"
Afraid I must disagree with you about floaters. While I'll grant that the Mirage may have been a benchmark, I'd be willing to fly a good Bubble Dancer vs. you with a Mirage any day. (Not that I'd necessarily win, we all know it's the pilot, and I don't know you so you may fly a lot better than I do.) If it was a bit breezy and we had the same airframe weight I'd even spot you a few points. Actually, I think the Allegro Lite did some of it first, but the Bubble Dancer is a combination of full pedal strength with very light weight, balsa construction, low moment of inertia, and refined aerodynamics. I don't recall seeing that before the Allegro Lite. The Bubble Dancer turns very quickly for a 3 meter. My impression was that it did this quicker than the aileron jobs. I hadn't seen anything quite like it before. Certainly not a 3 meter that you could full pedal launch and also be comfortable doing a couple of circles from a hand launch. Watching Mark launch the Allegro Lite was surreal. Like playing a 33 at 45, or even 78, for those of you who remember vinyl. I don't know what the imitations fly like yet, though I hope to soon. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fred, I agree with your opinion. I read the threads and had to take a larger overview to what a benchmark actually means. In my opinion, Benchmark planes, means some plane to which other planes are compared to so that a noticeable advancement in performance, building, transport, and flying can be measured. They should be unique and contribute unique characteristics. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
[RCSE] Re: Thorn Substitute
You could follow the Apogee carving instructions but with maple, use a fishing pole butt for the tailboom, and have a great sloper. If you get a drawknife and a good block plane, it might not even be difficult. A guy in our club has (or used to have) a router jig which made quick work of making straight 8" X 2 meter wings with E205. Some of his gliders had almost solid balsa ahead of the spar. Maynard Hill's electrostatic autopilot trick substituted for dihedral, though I seem to recall he could fly them pretty well without it. Hard to make a high aspect ratio work with lead, unless it has long rigid toys inside. Use tungsten. (now THERE'S an easy material to work with...) I wish I remembered (or maybe just knew in the first place)what "Judicium Procurator" means. And "Recuperatio" is a new addition isn't it? Lincoln Ross Tom H. Nagel wrote: >Dear Gordy: > Solid lead would be easier to work with. Softer, and no >splinters. = >Sort of a lead sled. > I thought I had a source lined up for surplus Chinese >lead ingots, = >but it turns out they were contaminated with toys. >Tom H. Nagel >Judicium Procurator >Recuperatio=20 RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
