RE: New Project

[Casey Sterbenz]

Henner,
Would a copper gasket do for your application?  You can easily fabricate one 
to fit the way you would cut and fit a paper gasket.  A copper gasket can be 
used over and over again if you anneal the copper to return it to its 
ductile state before reusing it.

Casey Sterbenz
From: "Meinhold, Henner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: sslivesteam@colegroup.com
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: New Project
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 13:03:51 -0800

Another question:
For gaskets I used a material I bought many years ago in Europe. It is
called "Klingerit". Googling revealed, that this material contains asbestos
and has long been banned. Is there a replacement for this stuff ? It should
be black, somehow like hard rubber and withstand steam. I don't like the
paper-like material as used e.g. on the Mamod, as it disintegrates after a
couple of assembly/disassembly cycles.

Regards
Henner

RE: Latest Project rolls out of shops.

[Casey Sterbenz]

Kevin,
VERY nice.  Much thanx for the inspiration!
Casey Sterbenz
From: Kevin Strong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Latest Project rolls out of shops.
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 09:48:25 -0700
Just in time for our annual sojourn to Diamondhead for the Small Scale 
Steam-up, the Tuscarora Valley Railroad rolled their #2 out of the shops. 
The loco started life as an Accucraft Ruby, but now looks at least slightly 
different.

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TVRR2/buildersfinished.jpg

RE: die size for 1/16" rod

[Casey Sterbenz]

Matthias,
Typical numbered tap and die sizes are based on a simple formula.  A "zero" 
die, such as a 0-80 size, is for rod that is 0.060" diameter.  For each 
number size above or below zero, add or subtract 0.013" to the diameter.  
So, a 1-72 die is for rod that is (0.060" + 0.013"), or 0.073" diameter.  A 
2-56 die is for rod that is (0.060" + 0.013" + 0.013"), or 0.086" diameter.  
A 3-48 die is for rod that is (0.060" + 0.013" + 0.013" + 0.013"), or 0.099" 
diameter.  For smaller dies, such as 00-90, it is (0.060" - 0.013"), or 
0.047" diameter rod.

To determine the drill size for a tapping hole, subtract (1 divided by 
thread pitch) from the diameter of the wire.  So, for a 0-80 tap the tapping 
hole diameter would be (0.060" - (1/80)").  For a 1-72 tap the hole diameter 
would be (0.073" - (1/72)").  For a 2-56 tap the hole diameter would be 
(0.086" - (1/56)").

For your 1/16" rod which is nominally 0.063" diameter, a 1-72 size die will 
work as long as shallow threads are acceptable.  A 1-72 nut may be a little 
loose on rod of that size.  The rod will be a loose fit in a 1-72 tapped 
hole.  There are other tap and die standards such as the British BA and ME 
series and various metric series that may be a better match for 1/16" rod.  
Try a Google search for taps and dies.  You should come up with several hits 
that list the various thread series with the nominal diameters that are 
intended to be used with each die.   I'm on the road this week so I don't 
have access to my web site lists that have the tables of tap/die/wire 
diameters on them.

Casey Sterbenz

From: Matthias Warmbold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: die size for 1/16" rod
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2004 22:55:45 -0700 (PDT)
Hi,
I got a 1/16 brass rod (K&S brand) on which I would
like to put a thread. Neither the shop nor K&S has
provided me with information on which die is suitable
for this size. I spent some time surfing the net and
assume that a 00-80 die would fit. To make the female
thread, I assume that I have to use a 3/64 drill bit.
Can anyone from this list confirm whether my
assumptions are correct? K&S sells a 00-80 tap and die
which no local dealer has on stock. Are they of good
quality or should I order it from somewhere else? Are
there any tables on the Internet where one could look
up the die size for any given rod?
Matthias

Re: HO - How small is too small?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Michael,
Go to http://www.hornbyrailways.com/pages/livestm_live.aspx.  There is a 
video on that page that shows both prototype and model action.  Several tabs 
near the top of the page link to additional information about the model.

V/r,
Casey Sterbenz

From: "mdenning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: HO - How small is too small?
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 15:14:37 -0400
How do we find more info on this HO steamer?
Thanks
Michael
Florida
USA
Iron Naut

RE: Ring Burner

[Casey Sterbenz]

Henner,
"Me too!"  I would like a copy of the drawings and images of the ring 
burner.

Casey Sterbenz
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

From: "mdenning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Ring Burner Re: How small is too small?
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 19:14:50 -0400
Would a ring shaped burner work on the Basic Project Engine also?
If so, could you send me a copy of the burner also?
Thank You
Michael
Florida
USA
Iron Naut
- Original Message -
From: "Henner Meinhold" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: How small is too small?
> Pete,
> for vertical boilers a ring shaped burner is quite efficient. I can send 
you
> drawings/photos of my A-Climax burner.
> Regards
> Henner

Re: BRASS - BRONZE - HOW TO TELL?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Harry,
In addition to steam engines, I also build boats and have seen first hand 
the effects of electrolytic corrosion on the zinc plates used to protect 
steel and bronze boat parts.  Given the quantities of material we use for 
bushings on our steamers, there is very little difference in cost between a 
bar of bronze and a bar of brass.  No question about it, I will continue to 
use bronze for boiler fittings.

I still need to have some definitive way of separating bronze from brass in 
my scrap box.  I found a web site (http://pwp.value.net/~jamesg/steel.htm) 
that sells a reagent kit that can be used to identify and separate bronze 
from brass, bronze alloy from bronze alloy, brass alloy from brass alloy, 
and it can be used by any shop worker with no special training.  Only $475 
for the kit.

There are several web sites out there from labs that will anaylze samples - 
for a fee.  Not too convenient.

I found another web site 
(http://web.fccj.org/~smilczan/Two5/tony/steel.html) with the report of a 
school honors project that involves nitric acid dropped on a sample of the 
metal.  The reaction is described as "fast", with brass turning green and 
bronze turning blue-green.  This might work if I can find some standard 
samples to test and develop a color chart for comparison.

I'll keep looking.  Maybe a trip to the library to check some chemistry 
books would be in order.

Casey Sterbenz
From: Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: BRASS - BRONZE - HOW TO TELL?
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 15:28:00 -0500
At 11:38 AM 6/23/04 -0400, you wrote:
>Response: Casey, Brasses with Zn contents in excess of 15% are subject to
>a special type of corrosion known as "Dezincification". Red brass (15% 
Zn)
>is not usually attacked.

Casey,
 I don't see the basic chemical laws of the universe being bent
just for this one alloy so zinc-bearing metal should not be immune to
dezincification on account of percentage alone.  Electrolytic action should
act upon any zinc molecule exposed to the electrolite wherever it might be.
 My guess is that dezincification DOES occur in red brass but due to the
lower percentage of zinc, and the applications it's used for (cold water?),
the effects are not nearly as quick to appear or as destructive as it can
be in other brasses in other environments, thus their service life and
safety can be claimed to be commensurate with what they are designed and
sold for.  This isn't an exact or predictable science.  Some brass boiler
fittings have been reported to have crumpled within weeks, others . . 
never.

Regards,
Harry

BRASS - BRONZE - HOW TO TELL?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,
I sent a query to the Copper Development Association (www.copper.org) asking 
about how to tell brass from bronze at home.  At the bottom of this mailgram 
is the response they provided.  My next step is to consult a chemistry book, 
as Lou suggested, to see about the reagent tests he mentioned.  Maybe do 
some more on-line snooping . . . .

There is quite a bit of interesting information on that web site about brass 
and bronze.  Its woth a look.

Also, at the McMAster-Carr web site (www.mcmaster.com), catalog page 3421 
lists the properties of various brass alloys, page 3426 lists properties of 
bronze alloys.

Casey Sterbenz
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Inquiry Response, Case No.: 15751
Date: 23 Jun 2004 10:54:14 -0400
To Casey Sterbenz:
Below is the response to Case No. 15751
Your question was: Is there some simple, reliable, way to definitively tell 
brass from bronze at home? I am an amateur machinist, building some model 
steam locomotives for a hobby. I use copper boilers, silver soldered, with 
bronze bushings for attaching fittings to the boilers. Others in the hobby 
have warned me not to use brass bushings which can fail due to zinc 
leaching. I concur, so I need some simple way to separate the brass from the 
bronze that I have in my leftovers box.

Response: Casey, Brasses with Zn contents in excess of 15% are subject to a 
special type of corrosion known as "Dezincafication". Red brass (15% Zn) is 
not usually attacked. The yellow brasses contain more than 15% Zn and are 
yellow. Bronze used for bearings is an alloy of Copper and tin and can also 
contain lead. The color is reddish. There are chemical spot tests for the 
presence of zinc. You will have to consult a chem handbook to get the 
reagents used. Regards, Lou Lozano

Your contact for this case is: Lou Lozano

RE: BRONZE - BRASS

[Casey Sterbenz]

Harry,
Much thanx for the information.  I'll keep snooping around on the Web - 
there has to be something out there on some web site somewhere that can help 
us tell the difference between these two metals.

V/r,
Casey

From: Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: BRONZE - BRASS
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 16:42:56 -0500

I've seen chemical tests kits which can supposedly tell you the difference
between alloys of the same family.  The prices for a "sample" kit begin at
around $450.00!  I don't know of a common household chemical process for
determining the difference.
Regards,
Harry

BRONZE - BRASS (WAS Re: sslivesteam2-Digest - Boiler water)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,
Is there an easy way to tell bronze from brass?  I have several bars of 
bronze that I bought to use for boiler bushings and fittings and I also have 
some bars of brass left over from "sparkie" projects.  I usually have a hard 
time telling one from the other, except that I store them separately.  I 
also am collecting scrap plumbing valves and fittings to melt down for some 
casting projects and, here again, I don't know for sure whether I have brass 
or bronze.  Some I believe to be bronze because the boxes they came in said 
so, but they look the same as some valves that a plumber friend gave me as 
scrap brass.

Casey Sterbenz
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sslivesteam2-Digest - Boiler water
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 12:28:32 EDT

Now boiler fittings. If you braze or solder brass bushings into a copper
boiler the brass can have the zinc leached out leaving a spongy mass of 
tin.
Therefore be sure to use bronze with tin content rather than plain zinc, 
copper
brass. Again there are all sorts of tins and bronzes as well. Among the 
worse
alloys for boiler work are the lower melting forms of Zamak, although there
are  high tin content Zamaks that are fine for boiler work.
I have seen plenty of boilers with bronze bushings but with brass check
valves etc screwed into the bushings that seem to last for many years. But 
the
material that is bonded to the copper shell by a brazing alloy should be 
bronze
not brass.

Re: wire for threading 0-80

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,
There is a simple formula for determining the proper diameter for number 
size hardware.  By definition, a #0 bolt is 0.060" diameter.  For larger or 
smaller bolts, add or subract multiples of 0.013".  For example, a #1 bolt 
is 0.073" diameter (0.060" plus 0.013").  A #2 bolt would be 0.086" (0.060" 
plus two times 0.013").  A #3 bolt would be 0.099", and so on.  For smaller 
than a #0, for example a #00 bolt, the size would be 0.047" (0.060" minus 
0.013").  A #000 bolt would be 0.034", and so on.

If you want to drill a hole to cut threads with a tap for a given size bolt, 
subtract the thread pitch from the diameter of the bolt.  For instance, to 
drill a tapping hole for a #2-56 bolt (0.086" diameter, 56 threads per inch) 
subtract the pitch (1/56th of an inch = 0.018") which comes to 0.068" 
diameter.  The size of tapping hole can be adjusted slightly larger or 
smaller if you are working in very hard or very soft material.

There are other standards out there, such as the Model Engineer (ME) and BA 
thread series used in Great Britian, and various metric standards used 
around the world.  A standard reference book such as Machinery's Handbook 
would include tables for those standards, along with tables for cutting 65% 
threads, 75% threads, drill sizes for tapping in specific materials, and so 
on.  For most of what we do, the tap hole formula works well with all our 
common fastener sizes, from # through #12.

Casey Sterbenz
O Scale Kings #8
Kevin Strong wrote:
Does anyone know what size brass rod/wire one would use for threading to 
0-80? My initial thought of 1/16, being right smack dab in between the 
clearance and tap drill sizes turned out to be wrong--too big. 3/64" is 
too small--the nuts slide right over.

_
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

Re: wicks

[Casey Sterbenz]

Geoff,

Yup, collect the stuff by just fixing the shovel to the front of your steam 
cart in place of the pilot/footboards/whatever.  Put your collection box 
just behind the shovel blade and the stuff will fill the box automatically 
as you drive into the pile, no stooping involved.  If you get stuff thats 
been sun baked for a day or two you can even use some in the firebox in 
place of expensive meths or butane.

Casey, who slings it all the time.


From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: wicks
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 22:38:38 -0700
Casey,

Will   do! I love to hear from men of experience and  I never had such a
brilliant idea. I will be out in the streets tomorrow with a cart and
shovel. Steam driven cart of course. Is that how you collect it.
Geoff.



Try a refrectory coating of horse maneuvers.  It works wonders.
>
>Casey
_
Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/

Re: wicks

[Casey Sterbenz]

Try a refrectory coating of horse maneuvers.  It works wonders.

Casey


From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: wicks
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:58:51 -0700
Pete,

I hadn't thought of that!--now to make the goose feathers fire proof!

The stem of the goose feather is hollow isn't it?
>
>I wonder if capillary tubes would work?
>
>Regards,
>PeteH
_
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® 
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

Re: Cross-tubes and porcupine quills and such

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

There is a very good discussion of water tubes and porcupine quills at 
http://home.iae.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/porky.htm.  That page 
includes a drawing of a small scale steam boiler along with construction 
tips, a treatise on silver soldering, and notes about boiler testing.  There 
is a wealth of other good information on that web site which is sponsored by 
the 16mm Narrow Gauge Modellers of Great Britian.

Casey Sterbenz
O Scale Kings #8

From: "Vance Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cross-tubes and porcupine quills and such
Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2004 09:35:53 -0700
This conversation makes me wonder -- are their other ways to increase heat 
transfer
without the complexity (and possibility for leaks) entailed with 
cross-tubes? We know
that most of the heat we generate goes up the stack rather than into the 
water, so
anything we can do to grab some of it before it heats up the smokebox would 
be
desirable.

The first thing that comes to mind is quills, like a "porcupine" 
pot-boiler. These would be
similar to cross-tubes in that they would pierce the center flue, so they 
wouldn't provide
any siphoning, but they would not carry water themselves so should be less 
prone to
leaks.

I have also seen chat about "turbulators", stainless steel strips twisted 
into a spiral and
shoved into the front end of the flue to slow gas outflow (and presumably 
increase heat
transfer to the flue wall). I think quills, arranged in a spiral or "x" 
pattern, would probably
function on a similar principle, but since they're directly connected to 
the flue (and
extend into the water), one would expect the heat transfer to be much 
greater.

I'm sure there are many other ways to slow flow and add surface to increase 
heat
transfer. For example, "corrugations" inside the flue. Cutting rings of a 
tube the size
smaller than that flue, then soldering them into the flue at intervals, 
would add
somewhat to the surface area as well as producing some turbulence inside 
the flue. Or
twisting copper wire into a spiral and soldering it into the flue.

I'm sure their are other ways to accomplish this. As Jim mentioned earlier, 
there's a
point beyond which "slowing flow" becomes "blockage", so some 
experimentation would
probably be in order. Does anyone else have ideas or experiences in this 
area?

-vance-

Be careful how you live; it is the only sermon that you preach.
William Ellery Channing

_
Limited-time offer: Fast, reliable MSN 9 Dial-up Internet access FREE for 2 
months! 
http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

Re: Momentum Car

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I have an extra copy of Steam in the Garden #50 (the issue with the original 
Larry Bangham article) that I would be willing to trade even for a clean 
copy of SITG issue #35.

Please contact me off list about this.

Casey Sterbenz
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
_
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200365ave/direct/01/

RUBY TUNEUP - CONTINUED

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I test ran my Ruby again last night, after adjusting one of the valves as I 
mentioned in yesterday's post.  This time Ruby ran more evenly in both 
directions, but still more freely in reverse than in forward.  So, next 
experiment is to turn the eccentrics 180 degrees, swapping reverse and 
forward.  That is a project for this weekend.  Or not.  Maybe I'll sit on 
this until I complete another Ruby project.

I signed up for the SteamClass 2004 at MyLargeScale.com 
(http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19995) which will 
feature various modifications that can be done using a Ruby as the basic 
engine.  I put a check in the mail today to reserve a Ruby kit from 
Quisenberry Station.  I'm planning to detalil this new kit to more closely 
resemble a Baldwin 2-4-0 for which drawings appeared in Model Railroader in 
November 1981.  That should be a fun project.  Starting with a kit I will 
feel more comfortable doing things since I can see how everything goes 
together more easily than I can by trying to disassemble a complete 
locomotive.

Casey Sterbenz

_
Take off on a romantic weekend or a family adventure to these great U.S. 
locations. http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx

RUBY TUNEUP - CONTINUED (was RUBY TUNEUP QUESTION)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Kevin and List,

Much thanx for all the replies and the info about tuning up my Ruby.  
Special thanx for the link to the MyLargeScale forum topic.  I'll have to 
give that turn-things-180-degrees adjustment a try.

But before I do that, I have another adjustment to make.  Last night I 
noticed that there is a timing mark on the valve pistons similar to the one 
on the reversing valve.  The timing mark on one valve just kisses the steam 
chest at its extreme forward travel while the one on the other side 
disappears completely at its extreme forward travel.  I adjusted that one 
last night, backing the valve out about a turn and a quarter.  I didn't have 
time last night to do a test run but I think I'll have some time tonight to 
do that.  I'll report back after I put in a few more test runs.

Casey Sterbenz

From: Kevin Strong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: RUBY TUNEUP QUESTION
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 08:44:46 -0700

The fix to this is to rotate the eccentric cranks 180 degrees, so that 
forward and reverse basically swap positions. This is a very easy change to 
make, and is illustrated very nicely on the Mylargescale.com website by 
Dave Hottman:
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20026
(look on page two--he's got a cutaway of a cylinder to help illustrate.)



_
Dream of owning a home? Find out how in the First-time Home Buying Guide. 
http://special.msn.com/home/firsthome.armx

RUBY TUNEUP QUESTION

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I recently got back to active live steam work by putting together a roller 
run-in stand for my Ruby.  This is the first time I have run Ruby in about 2 
years.  When I first got the engine I simply placed blocks under the front 
and rear footboards to allow me to do some static running.  I have about two 
hours total run time on the blocks.

Now, on the roller stand, I see that my Ruby runs much faster and easier in 
reverse than in forward.  I checked the setting on the reversing piston and 
the setting is spot-on according to the instructions.  I'm assuming that the 
next step would be to check and then adjust as necessary the setting of the 
valves in the steam chests.  The mechanics of adjusting the valves seems to 
be easy - loosen the lock nut and turn the valve one way or the other to 
provide the proper setting.  I haven't yet opened up the steam chests to see 
just how the valves are arranged.

Could someone who is familiar with setting the valves on a Ruby give me 
advice about how to proceed with checking the valve settings.

Casey Sterbenz

_
Watch high-quality video with fast playback at MSN Video. Free! 
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200365ave/direct/01/

ANOTHER 1/4" SCALE LOCOMOTIVE

[Casey Sterbenz]

John and list,

Here is another link to a 1/4" scale live steamer.  This one is an 0-4-0 
geared engine with a vertical oscillating cylinder and a horizontal gas 
fired boiler.  As shown on the drawings the platework is similar to British 
contractor engines.  That could easily be modified to resemble American 
practice.  The web page that introduces the drawings shows a print of the 
prototype that was available from an Ohio factory in 1898.

Free drawings and a few photos are available at 
http://home.iae.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/Cracker.htm.

Casey Sterbenz
O Scale Kings #8
_
Tired of slow downloads and busy signals?  Get a high-speed Internet 
connection! Comparison-shop your local high-speed providers here. 
https://broadband.msn.com

Re: Question about O gauge engines - Sources (Long)

[Casey Sterbenz]

John,

A few years ago (more than a few, now) I built a 2-2-0 for 1/4" scale called 
'Dickens'.  The drawings and construction article appeared in Live Steam 
magazine in Feb-Mar-Apr 1975.  I can make copies of that article available 
for you - off line request, please, this is copywrited material.  I have a 
couple of photos of my model around somewhere that I can scan in and send to 
you if you are interested.  The drawings in the article show the wheel 
profile set up for tinplate track but I changed that, turning the wheels to 
a profile suitable for use on 2 rail scale track.  "Dickens" is a freelance 
design that resembles British practice.  It makes a pretty good introduction 
to scratchbuilding a steam locomotive, including turning wheels, silver 
soldering boilers, and like that.  If you are already experienced in that 
art, this one is probably 'way too simple.  Its alcohol fired and uses 
single acting oscillating cylinders.

Little Engines advertises castings, drawings and construction articles at 
http://www.littleengines.com/Quarter%20Inch%20Scale%20Locomotives.htm.  They 
advertise a 4-6-4 and a 4-8-4 in 1/4" scale.  I bought a set of castings and 
some other parts from them in 1995 when I finished 'Dickens'.  I made the 
main frame pieces at that time but haven't gone any further - too many boat 
building projects have gotten in the way.  Check out the image at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Otrains/files/CS-01/ to see what the 4-6-4 
looks like.  You will have to be a member of the OTrains group at Yahoo.com 
to see the image.  Membership is free, just register and sign up for the 
group.  As designed, the boiler is a full locomotive fire tube type, set up 
for alcohol firing.  I've been toying (for 6-7 years now) with the idea of 
putting together a Smithies type (water tube) boiler for this one, but not 
yet.  No hurry, I need to have something to do in retirement some 3 years, 2 
months, 29 days, I've lost count of the hours, from now.

You might also check out www.glrmodelsupplies.com, a British outfit that 
advertises castings, materials and drawings for several 1/4" scale 
locomotives designed by LBSC.  They offer 6 locomoties in 1/4" scale, most 
are British prototype, but one is an American style 4-6-4 designed for 
Walschaerts valve gear and coal firing.  Some of the others are designed for 
coal firing, some for alcohol, some for butane.  Valve gears are Walschaerts 
or slip eccentric, depending on the model.  Years ago I bought a book from 
either Coles or Sulphur Springs, I don't remember which, about how to build 
the "Bat" 4-4-0 that is among those shown on the GLR web site.  Looks like 
an interesting project.  Its British prototype, but might not be too hard to 
redesign the model to more closely resemble American practice.

Casey Sterbenz
O Scale Kings #8

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Question about O gauge engines
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 16:53:58 -0500
Hi:
I have built a couple of 3.5 gauge engines and would like to build an O 
gauge engine just for my own amazement and amusment. Any suggestions would 
be appreciated. I have a lathe and milling machine so I would intend to 
turn my own wheels, cylinders etc and can build up and silver solder my own 
boiler. Would like something a bit more locomotive looking than that engine 
made from the Midwest engine and boiler if possible.
TIA
John Meacham

_
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected  with high-speed 
Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers.  
https://broadband.msn.com

Re: BPE boiler mods?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Susan,

I'm not too worried about brass corrosion in this instance.  The chimney 
tube/main flue of the Midwest boiler is brass to start with, so adding some 
brass fire tubes should make no difference in the ultimate life of this 
boiler.  I can easily inspect the brass water tubes every time I refuel the 
boiler because the tubes are right there in the fire space, exposed every 
time I lift the boiler to put in some fuel.  Also, I am scrupulous about 
drying the boiler completely after the last run of the day.  I empty the 
boiler while everything is still hot and leave the filler cap off, only 
replacing it after filling the boiler when next I run the engine.  There is 
no iron at all in my boiler so there should be little or no electrolytic 
corrosion taking place that would leach the zinc out of the brass.

Should the water tubes fail, boiler pressure would quickly dissipate.  The 
water tubes are in the fire space so the gusher of water from such a failure 
should put out the fire right away.  The open ends of the water tubes are 
completely in the waterspace so little steam would be released through the 
water tubes if they fail.  Also, there is no throttle or restriction (other 
than the engine itself) in the steam takeoff line that would allow high 
steam pressures to build in this boiler.  Therefore, any excess steam would 
more likely exit through the steam line, not through a failed water tube.

I thank you for your concern.  I share your interest in keeping this hobby 
as safe as can be.  This hobby is supposed to be fun, not an opportunity for 
carelessness to cause personal injury or property damage.

Casey Sterbenz

From: Susan Parker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: BPE boiler mods?
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 19:25:17 +0100
Hi Casey,

Hope you are keeping well.

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 20:58:12 -0400
From: "Casey Sterbenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: BPE boiler mods?

I added three water tubes to my Midwest boiler.  I cleaned out some brass 
ball point pen refill tubes, annealed them, bent them into a "U" shape, 
then soldered them into the bottom tube plate of the boiler.
Oops, if this means what I think it means this is not safe. The zinc in the 
brass can leach out over time leaving a spongy matrix which will fail.

I.e. Ka..BOOM..!!!

I would very much advise you to remove these and replace with copper.

Brass is fine for burners and smokeboxes, BUT not for use in a boiler 
itself or any fittings (e.g. bushes, stays, etc.).

[snip]

Best wishes,
Susan.
_
Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage.  
http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es

Re: BPE boiler mods?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Pete,

Yes, the "U" shaped tubes hang down into the fire space and carry water from 
the boiler.  Lots more heating surface added this way.

Casey Sterbenz


From: "PeteH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: BPE boiler mods?
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 19:32:26 -0500
Hi Casey,

You wrote:
> I added three water tubes to my Midwest boiler.  I cleaned out some 
brass
> ball point pen refill tubes, annealed them, bent them into a "U" shape,
then
> soldered them into the bottom tube plate of the boiler.

Let me see if I understand this correctly, the lower end of the "U" hangs
down into the fire and they carry water?
PeteH
_
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/parental

Re: American water pump dilemma

[Casey Sterbenz]

Ken,

Check out the images at http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo-s600.jpg and 
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo-s600a.jpg.  The water pumps on this 
2-6-0 prototype are located under the cab.  The pump piston rods are 
connected to the main rods at the rear drivers.  On this prototype, the cab 
extends quite a bit back from the rear driver which is not quite how yoru 
CAD drawing of the 4-4-0 is arranged.

I've seen such a pump arrangement on other locomotives at the B&O Museum in 
Baltimore, which unfortunately, is still closed due to the snow damage that 
happened last February.  Somewhere in my photo piles at home I have a 
picture or two of these locomotives.  I'll see if I can find them in the 
next day or two.  Maybe someone else on this list has some photos of Museum 
locomotives that have this water pump arrangement?

Casey Sterbenz


From: "XXYZ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: American water pump dilemma
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:07:22 -0600
Hi all,

I have run into a bit of a dilemma. I was working on some of the boiler 
bits
on the American Project and thought it would be a good time to flesh out 
the
water pump. I am expecting the arrival of my newly purchased O/A torch rig
and that put my mind in the frame to finish the boiler details. I need to
practice A LOT before attempting the prototype boiler, but since the torch
isn't here yet I needed to work on something.

The dilemma is were to put the water pump. I am thinking that the Dee style
pump set-up would be good but the it looks a bit clunky in the CAD model 
and
doesn't quite fit. I am also thinking that it may fit to the side of the
burner and inside of the firebox (like the Project loco).

The downside of the Project setup is accessibility. The room behind the 
rear
axle is tight on the American and the frame is more open than that of the
Dee. Cosmetically this may look a bit ugly (it may in reality be less
noticeable than on the CAD model). There is also little room for the nose 
of
the scotch crank.

I have posted a picture of the loco (see link below) with the Dee sized
scotch crank and eccentric on the rear axle. As you can see the current
configuration for the boiler is trying to share some of the same space. I 
am
stuck in which approach is going to be the better solution, and am 
wondering
if I am missing something.

Tell me what you think. Or if you have any other options that may be more
appropriate.
Thanks

Ken

http://xxyz.home.mindspring.com/american%20main%202.jpg


_
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup

Re: BPE boiler mods?

[Casey Sterbenz]

Pete,

I added three water tubes to my Midwest boiler.  I cleaned out some brass 
ball point pen refill tubes, annealed them, bent them into a "U" shape, then 
soldered them into the bottom tube plate of the boiler.  I also punched a 
second row of air holes in the brass sheet that serves as the "firebox" of 
the boiler.  Before I punched the extra holes the Sterno fuel would barely 
burn.  Now it burns clean and hot.

I toyed with the idea of adding water tubes to the central boiler flue but 
gave that up as a more difficult and not particularly useful modification.  
Some folks I heard about soldered a bunch of "porcupine quills" into the 
lower tube sheet instead of adding water tubes.  1/16" copper wire pieces 
about 3/8" long, 1/3rd of the length in the fire space, 2/3rd of the length 
in the water space, would be about right.  No matter which approach you use, 
the idea is to increase the heating surface, transferring more of the heat 
from the fire to the water.

I'm not sure using a piece of tubing with a thicker wall as the central flue 
will help at all.  Thicker wall copper tubing will simply absorb more heat 
from the file and slow the heat transfer to the water.  The thin brass tube 
supplied with the kit should give you better performance than a piece of 
copper with a thicker wall.  The thicker wall copper tube does nothing to 
increase the heating surface, but acts as a heat sink, likely decreasing the 
efficiency of heat transfer to the water.

Casey Sterbenz

From: "PeteH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: BPE boiler mods?
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 10:40:30 -0500
Has anyone modified the vertical Midwest boiler as used in the Basic 
Project
Engine?  I have made some changes with mixed results and am soliciting
advice to see if I am on the right track.  The first change was to replace
the brass chimney with a 'type L' copper tube of the same diameter.  The
second was to add a 'dry-pipe separator' inside the boiler and the third
(which I am sure is the culprit) is the addition of a superheater.

The superheater is made from 1/8" copper tubing and connects about 3/4 of
the way up the chimney, the section inside has been annealed and twisted
into a very loose spiral of about 3-1/2 turns in 5 inches. At the bottom of
the chimney it makes a gradual 90 degree bend and projects out one of the
holes in the lower shroud surrounding the fuel 'pot'.
The problem I am having is in keeping the fire burning, caused I assume by
the placement of the superheater in the chimney restricting the draft. The
inner diameter of the chimney is just under 9/16", although I guessed that
the loose spiral would allow enough draft I seem to be in error.  I 
wouldn't
think bringing the end of the 1/8" superheater pipe out one of the 7 intake
holes would cause it?  I even tried using the exhaust from the motor as a
'blower' to help induce the draft without any luck!

I will replace the spiral superheater pipe with a simple straight pipe 
along
with making a new exit hole to see if  this fixes the problem, am I on the
right track?

Kindest Regards,
PeteH
_
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup

Re: Steel supports for my iron horse

[Casey Sterbenz]

Clark,

Very impressive and informative!  Much thanx for making those images 
available.

Casey Sterbenz


From: Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Steel supports for my iron horse
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 21:31:37 -0700
As Harry Wade suggested, I have something to say on this form of layout 
construction.  I have now built a large layout which has been revised twice 
using this material as the horizontal support element.  However I use 2x6 
not 2x4.  I am posting photos on my web site located at
http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/layout/
where you can see the last modification being installed.
_
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

Re: G1 Loco Drawings

[Casey Sterbenz]

I heard or read somewhere that LBSC would design the locomotive projects in 
his head, write up the building instructions, and then get around to 
building the locomotive.  Has anyone else heard about this bit of trivia?

Casey Sterbenz


At 06:32 PM 25/07/03 +0100, Art Walker wrote:
The LBSC of our times in my opinion. The clarity of the drawings &
instructions is just great.
From: Peter Foley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I don't know about that, Sir Arthur!  I have the drawings and words for 
building his coal fired 'O' scale Schools-look-alike, 'Bat'.  I've found 
half a dozen conflicting dimensions between the written portion and the 
drawings in looking them over.  One fellow who had tried to build one got 
the chassis finished and simply could not get it to run.  He sent it to Ted 
McJannett of Model Power Products, a fairly talented local model engineer, 
who got it to work after a great deal of work.  According to Ted, if you 
built it to LBSC's instructions, it couldn't run!  My big complaint about 
his stuff is that there was never an update or post construction supplement 
straightening out all these 'misunderstandings'.

regards,

pf

_
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

BALTIMORE SNOW (was OT: b&o museum latest pictures)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends:

The following text is from a newpaper article in the Baltimore Sun for 
February 19:

---

Amending the record

In revising its summary of the storm's duration, the National Weather 
Service said 28.2 inches of snow fell at Baltimore-Washington International 
Airport, making it the region's worst winter storm in 132 years.

"The issues were deciding whether these were one storm or two storms, 
because we did have a break in the precipitation," said weather service 
meteorologist Michelle Margraf. "But some areas south of Baltimore didn't 
have a break, and we thought it would be a lot easier and make a lot more 
sense to combine the two."

So, officially, at BWI, the storm brought 2.4 inches on Saturday; 21.8 
inches on Sunday; 2.6 inches Monday and 1.4 inches more in a final dusting 
yesterday morning.

The new official total has finally displaced the legendary "Knickerbocker 
Storm" of Jan. 27-29, 1922, which stood as the winter benchmark for 81 years 
at 26.5 inches. The storm earned its name from the roof collapse at the 
Knickerbocker Theatre in Washington, which gave way under the snow, crushing 
98 people and injuring 130 others.

------

Casey Sterbenz

From: Royce Woodbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT: b&o museum latest pictures
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 13:28:46 -0800
It would seem a crime that the roundhouse wasn't designed to withstand 
anticipatable snow loads without risking irreplaceable artifacts (trains).  
But maybe these snow loads were outside the 100 year limits. Were they ?

royce in SB


_
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

CAD LOCOMOTIVE DRAWINGS (was: steamcad boiler design software)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

www.steamcad.net is a dead end, but steamcad.railfan.net comes up a winner, 
not for boiler design software, but for cad renderings of locomotives.

Casey Sterbenz

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: steamcad boiler design software
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 11:12:04 -0600

Hello All,

 I stumbled across a company that produces boiler design software.
 I can't comment on it's usefullness for small scale steam since it 
was
over my head. 
 They have a FREE trial version download available.
 Check it out at www.steamcad.net (note the "NET" and not "COM")

Later,
Trent




_
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

RE: Layout construction web pages up

[Casey Sterbenz]

Dave,

Much thanx for making these images available.  You are providing me the 
inspiration I need to quit doodling at the drawing board and actually get 
something in place.

My circumstance is similar to yours, I'm in a suburban town home with a 
backyard deck as the only available space for an outdoor layout.  I'm 
planning to attach the layout sections to the fence around the deck as you 
did.  I'm also looking forward to seeing the images of how you prepared the 
table surfaces (plywood, etc.).

Again, much thanx for making these images of your work available to us.

Casey Sterbenz


From: Dave Cole <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: Layout construction web pages up
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 09:40:46 -0800





those of us in urban areas (or maybe i'm semi-rural as there are stables 
within two miles and a working farm within one) have to figure out how to 
best use what little land we get.




btw, the pictures that are missing are of the plywood treatment phase of 
construction, in which the truck-bed liner material is explained. hope to 
find those soon.

\dmc



_
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 3 months FREE*. 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= 
http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_stopmorespam_3mf

Re: Lathes for Live Steamers

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends:

Does anyone have one of the Microlux line of lathes and machine tools 
offered by MicroMark?  The 7x10 lathe looks to be similar to the ones 
offered by Grizzly and Harbor Freight, but is more pricey.  They also offer 
a 7x14 lathe with English, not metric, threads.  Does anyone know much about 
these machines?

How about the new Microlux "Tabletop Machining Center" 
(http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/82714.html), a lathe-mill-drill 
machine with slightly less lathe capacity (6" swing) than the other small 
lathes.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com
 

G1MRA PROJECT - SOURCES FOR MATERIALS

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I recently ordered some hardware from MicroFasteners.com for my "Project."  
I placed the order on their website and received the stuff two days later.  
I'd call that super service.

I obtained some brass through MetalMart.com.  I was about to order through 
their internet site when I discovered they have a sales outlet on east side 
of Baltimore, only a few miles away from home.  They had what I wanted in 
stock, I could walk in and pick it up, and the cost was about half what I 
would have paid by an internet order.  This outfit has 15 locations 
throughout the eastern US which are listed on the web site.

I ordered some items for another of my projects from the Stock Drive 
Products website - sdp-si.com - and also received those items in two days.  
Again, superb service.  Stock Drive markets small gears, sprockets and chain 
drive parts in both metric and inch sizes, and other stuff we can use in our 
small scale live steam work.  This outfit is a good source for drive 
components for things like the BARGS locomotives.

I have no personal interest in any of these companies.  They provided me 
superb service for hobby quantities of material.  Based on my experience, I 
recommend that you consider these outfits when looking for materials for 
building live steam locomotives.

Casey Sterbenz

_
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
 

Re: MACHINING CAST IRON (was MATERIALS FOR PROJECT)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Phil,

I've thought about doing cast iron work to help support my live steam hobby, 
but there are several problems.  My kiln will only go to 2300 degrees F 
while iron melts around 2800 degrees F.  I live in a suburban town house so 
setting up a cupola furnace or something else hot enough to melt iron would 
not be very accepted by my neighbors.  My house has wood siding and I do my 
work in the back yard in a 4' wide space between my wood deck and my wood 
fence.  I'm apprehensive of fire even when doing bronze casting (1900 
degrees F) so I consider casting iron to be out of the question right now.

I'm planning to retire in about 5 years at which time we're hoping to move 
to some place where I can have a detached garage for my workshop.  The plan 
is to open a wooden boat building shop, do some bronze casting for fittings 
for the boats, and continue the live steam interest as a hobby.  At that 
time I will likely experiment with casting iron, once I have a little room 
to spread out.

9600 work hours to retirement, and counting.

Casey


>From: "Phil. Paskos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: MACHINING CAST IRON (was MATERIALS FOR PROJECT)
>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 08:43:34 -0400
>
>Casey;
>
> I'm not that familiar with the melting point of cast iron, but you 
>could
>make a few bucks and help some fellow live steamers out if you could make
>cast iron wheels. I'm planning on building a Reading K1 in 1". It's a big
>project and a big engine. 2 of the drivers are box poc wheels the other 8
>are spoked wheels and the pilot wheels are also spoked. Lots of castings
>needed!
>
>Phil


_
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
 

MACHINING CAST IRON (was MATERIALS FOR PROJECT)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Keith,

Much thanx for the advice.  I live in Maryland, about halfway between 
Washington, DC and Annapolis, and just south of Baltimore.  I belong to the 
Chesapeake and Allegheny live steam club in Baltimore, so I should be able 
to find someone in the group with a lathe big enough to handle the initial 
cuts on the wheel castings.

I spoke with the machine shop instructor of a local adult ed course a couple 
of years ago, but he didn't want to have someone in his class of beginning 
students going off on their own project.  He wanted everyone to make the 
same set of nesting screwdrivers for the class project.  No help there.  A 
local community college has a machine shop program but all their courses are 
based on CNC machines, with emphasis on learning to program the machines.  
Not much help there, either.

I've been doing some experimenting with scrap cast iron, "seasoning" it in 
the pottery kiln I use for my aluminum and bronze foundry work.  The kiln 
heats up very slowly, taking perhaps 2 hours from a cold start until I can 
get out the first batch of molten aluminum (1200-1300 degrees F).  The kiln 
will get to a maximum of 2300 degrees F after about 3 hours of use.  Eight 
hours after I shut down, the inside of the kiln is still warm to the touch.  
I have some cast iron that I put in the kiln before my last foundry session 
and it got to be red hot while I was pouring aluminum.  I left the iron in 
the kiln for a day after shutting down, so it took 8-10 hours or so to cool 
down to room temperature.  I haven't yet tried to machine these pieces, 
which I hope are now of uniform hardness, no hard skin.  If that works out 
OK I'll try the same dodge with some of the wheel castings in an attempt to 
alleviate the hard skin problem.

My Unimat can handle a cut of about .004" in a 1" diameter mild steel bar 
without slipping.  Based on that, I'm sure it will not work if I tried to 
horse off 10 thou of cast iron skin at one go.  However, I can fit a hand 
crank to the spindle of the lathe which would give me enough torque to get 
through that much iron.  I can expect to crank maybe 30 RPM max, which would 
be just about right for this job.

Lots of room for experimenting, here.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "Keith Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: MATERIALS FOR PROJECT
>Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:07:43 -0400
>
>Casey,
>You should be alright with those choices, and you may have other options
>about doing the wheels. Does your local adult education classes have
>anything for metal working? If so, the cost of tuition gets you access to
>some industrial grade machines, and insructors love to find folks who are
>into machining as a hobby, and are actually building something! Nearby
>fellow Live Steamers can also be a good bet for assistance, off hand, I now
>forget where you live, but there must be some modelers nearby!
>I also think if you are careful, you could still machine the wheels on a
>unimat, others have done so succesfully. The big trick is to not try and
>take off teeny little bits, as you will ruin even a carbide bit. On the
>first cut, you absolutely HAVE to get under the skin, completely! Sure, 
>that
>cut will be a little ragged looking, but it would if you were using a 13"
>South Bend Toolroom lathe too! Once the hard skin is gone, you can take
>light cuts of a couple of thous at a time, and get a fine finish using a
>round nosed tool bit. But for that firsst cut, you have to go deep, so the
>tip of the tool is in soft iron, and not hard surface crud, which gives yo
>an intermitant cut as well as trying to turn stuff as hard as glass! That's
>why you are slipping the belt, if you have to, file by hand a staring place
>to get the point of the tool under the skin. And remember, the skin is
>deeper than just the rough surface, you still need to go eight or ten
>thousandths under the surface, after breaking through the rough outer 
>layer!
>Finf some old window sash weights, when somebody is getting replacement
>windows, you will find some great cast iron for free in those old window
>weights! Then practise cutting beneath the skin, and you can also supply
>your self with enough freight car wheels to last a life time, from one sash
>weight!
>and they are usually free!
>Let me know how you make out!  Keith


_
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
 

Re: MATERIALS FOR PROJECT

[Casey Sterbenz]

Keith, Harry, et.al.,

Much thanx for the responses to my queries about various aspects of the 
"Project" materials selection.  I've pretty much decided to go with brass 
for the cylinder and boiler fittings.

I ordered some materials from onlinemetals.com and from asapsource.com, 
whichever had the better prices for any given item.  Most of what I ordered 
was brass bar, square, hex and round stock, along with a foot of 2" diameter 
copper tube and some copper sheet for the boiler.  I ordered some 1-1/4" 
square brass bar for the cylinders, which I plan to shim for a snug fit 
between the frames at the designed 1-5/16" spacing, rather than to cut down 
a 1-1/2" square bar.  The copper tube is a little heavy, 16 gauge rather 
than the 18 gauge stuff shown in the manual, but I don't see that being much 
of a problem.  I already have a bunch of small diameter copper tubing, 
stainless steel rod, odd chunks of bronze, brass sheet and some other stuff 
in my materials box so I shouldn't need to buy much more stuff to get this 
job going.

I am a little concerned about turning the cast iron wheels on my Unimat.  I 
can't get down much below 200 RPM which is a bit fast for the initial cuts 
and the rounjd belt drives slip all over the place when trying to do a heavy 
cut.  I might try making a new drive system for the Unimat using toothed 
pulleys and timing belts to get both a slower speed and a more positive 
drive.  My other lathe is a Gingery type, but I'm not far enough along 
making that machine to be able to use it for this job.  I might just decide 
to cast up some wheel blanks in aluminum or ZA-12 which I can easily machine 
on the Unimat without any changes.  Then, once I rebuild the Unimat drive or 
get the cross slide and headstock done on the Gingery lathe (next year or 
maybe some time thereafter), I can put the iron wheels on the engine.

Of course, all this assumes that I don't get into another boat building 
project, which will sidetrack the "Project" project for another year.

Again, much thanx to all you good folks who provided help and advice in this 
matter.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
 

MATERIALS FOR PROJECT

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I'm gathering materials to build my "Project" locomotive.  I'm wondering 
about substituting different materials for what is specified in the manual.

Instead of brass for boiler fittings, suppose I use stainless steel?  I
can get scrap stainless steel rod of suitable sizes in my area, plus I can 
easily turn bushings out of standard stainless steel hardware that I get 
from a local home supply store.  I've had good success in silver soldering 
stainless steel in my boat building work.  I haven't yet tried machining the 
stuff, other than to drill a few holes in some standard hardware items, so I 
can't yet comment about the practicality of machining the raw stock to 
proper size.

How about substituting cast iron for brass to make the cylinder, steam 
chest, valve and piston?  I can get free machining cast iron square and 
rectangular bar stock from on line suppliers.  The stuff is continuous
cast and is advertised as being of uniform density and hardness, no hard 
skin or inclusions that one might expect of sand cast iron.  The vendor 
claims the machinability of this material is very good.

Finally, I'm thinking of using 1-1/4" square stock for the cylinder
instead of the 1-3/16" x 1-5/16" stock specified in the manual.  Square 
stock of that size is easily obtainable, while suitable sized rectangular 
stock is not.  I have only a Unimat SL to work with, so reducing the size of 
a 1-1/2" square block to the 1-5/16" x 1-3/16" cylinder design size would be 
a chore.  I can make the flange on the wheel bushings 1/32" thicker to 
compensate for the narrower frame spacing.  The extra 1/16" height of the 
cylinder should not be in the way as there is plenty of clearance below the 
cylinder as designed.  It does not seem that narrowing the space between the 
main frames by 1/16" would cause much of a problem with "Project."  The same 
dodge might not work with "Dee" because of the second crank eccentric and 
the presence of a leading truck.

Any thoughts or comments?

Casey Sterbenz



_
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
 

Re: slip rolls

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

"Machinist Workshop" magazine for June-July 2002 has an article about 
building a sheet metal bending machine from common materials.  The article 
claims the machine can bend up to 1/4" thick steel.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: pinch rolls

[Casey Sterbenz]

Harry, Keith,

Much thanx for the pointer to the George Thomas source material.  I'll be 
happily surfing that site for weeks to come!

Casey Sterbenz


_
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
 

Re: pinch rolls

[Casey Sterbenz]

Harry,

How does the George Thomas design compare to the Vince Gingery slip roll 
machine design for ease of construction, size of material that can be bent 
and so on?  The Gingery book is available from Lindsay Publications for 
about $10 but I'm not at all familiar with the published work of George 
Thomas.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: pinch rolls
>Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 18:52:47 -0500
>
>At 06:26 PM 5/25/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >So who or what is George Thomas, and how do I get plans or a kit?
> >Mike Eorgoff
>
>Mike,
> George Thomas was a wonderful old gentleman, an old school British
>engineer, designer, and consummate craftsman, who wrote for many years for
>Model Engineer Magazine(UK).  His particular specialty was designing tools
>and tooling for the model engineer and a couple of book compilations of his
>projects have been published out of the UK.   George designed a set of
>small bending rolls that could be built in the average model engineer's
>workshop, which in England tended to be much more modest than its U.S.
>counterpart, and which would to suit the needs of the average live steam
>model builder.  As with most of his project designs they were often
>distillations of the best features of tools George had seen or used in his
>life.  The G.T. rolls are "pinch" rolls as opposed to "slip" rolls and when
>set up properly eliminate the short straight section left at the beginning
>and end of the sheet rolled through slip rolls.  Both use three rollers to
>do the job but arranged in slightly different way.
>
>
>Regards,
>Harry Wade
>Nashville, Tn
>


_
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
 

STUART MODELS LOCOMOTIVES

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Stuart-Turner, a long time producer of castings and kits for steam engines 
and accessories, is announcing a line of Gauge 1 locomotives.  The link 
http://www.stuartmodels.com/gauge-one/gauge-one.html will take you to the 
page that describes what they are trying to do.  There is also a short 
questionnaire about personal interests and preferences.

Casey Sterbenz

_
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Thin refractory material

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Try www.smallparts.com.  They sell a heat shielding compound, look under "H" 
on the web site.  Their catalog is a "gold mine" source for many of the 
things we need for our hobby work.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Royce Woodbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Thin refractory material
>Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:35:55 -0700
>
>Hi listers.  I need some thin refractory material to protect one
>part while silver soldering another in close proximity.  Anybody
>know of a source of 1/32 to 1/16" thick heat shielding material?




_
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
 

Re: Practical reading for the novice

[Casey Sterbenz]

Beauty!!

Casey


>From: Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Practical reading for the novice
>Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 18:57:20 -0600
>
>At 01:44 PM 2/22/02 -0800, you wrote:
> >I would like to see your "Tich" picture.
> >It might be possible for you to post it on Webshots.
>
>  OK here you go.
>
>
>
>Regards,
>Harry
>


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
 

Re: Practical reading for the novice

[Casey Sterbenz]

Dan,

"Project" and "Dee" are publcations of the G1MRA in England.  "Project" is a 
single cylinder 0-6-0 and "Dee" is a two cylinder 4-4-0.  Both engines 
follow British practice and both are inside cylinder engines.  The books can 
be ordered directly from that organization 
(http://www.gaugeone.org/g1mra_book_sales.htm).  Jim Curry 
([EMAIL PROTECTED]), the US representative for G1MRA, could provide 
some further information.

"Tich" is an 0-4-0T tank engine that follows British practice.  "Virginia" 
is a 4-4-0 that follows American practice.  I bought both books and a 
selection of castings for them from a firm in Missouri that, sadly, was 
destroyed by fire a while back.  I would have to mount a web search to 
discover a new source for these books.

I see a hot link in a message from Harry Wade to images of his "Tich".  That 
is a very nice piece of work!

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "Daniel A. Dernbach" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Practical reading for the novice
>Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:16:04 -0700
>
>Casey:
>Can you fill me in on the meaning of some words you used?
>Project and Dee Books and the word "tich". What are these terms and word's
>meanings.
>Also, do you have any suggestion where to look for the LBSC book that you
>mentioned. Thanks.
>Dan Dernbach


_
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Practical reading for the novice

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

If you can find a copy, the LBSC book on building "Tich" is an excellent 
resource.  "Tich" is designed for 3-1/2" gauge track, but the wheels are 2" 
diameter and the cylinders are 11/16" bore, hardly bigger than many Gauge 1 
locomotives.  The drawings and descriptions in the book are very detailed, 
allowing a novice to easily follow the steps needed to build this 
locomotive.  The text is generic enough to allow the instructions to be used 
for building virtually any small size live steam locomotive.

The LBSC book on building "Virginia" is just as detailed, and this book 
includes a section on downsizing this 3-1/2" gauge design for Gauge 1 use.

I have the Little Engines book on building 1/4" scale 4-6-4 and 4-8-4 
locomotives.  This provides about the same level of detail as the G1MRA 
"Project" and "Dee" books.  These locomotives feature cylinders of 1/2" bore 
and drivers of 1-3/4" diameter.  Compare that to the "Tich"!

Casey Sterbenz


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
 

Re: fuel question (long response)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

The operative thought here is ". . . designed to use . . ."  I'm not sure 
how many of us on this list are design engineers or who, like me, are 
tinkers.  We tinkers would rather cobble something together to get it to 
work and that includes patience with many false starts, inefficient designs, 
and early failures of equipment, even when it seems to be working OK in the 
beginning.  The design engineer would noodle something that is more likely 
to work correctly out of the box, but that requires a different kind of 
patience, and a grasp of theory and practice that many of us do not have.

An efficient coal fired locomotive boiler is very different from an 
efficient alcohol fired locomotive boiler.  In the first case the boiler 
typically features fire tubes and a firebox that is surrounded by water 
spaces on the sides, front and back.  A coal fire produces a good deal of 
radiant heat that can be captured in the water spaces surrounding the 
firebox.  The alcohol burner is more efficient when designed to use water 
tubes and maybe porcupine quills in an elongated firebox, perhaps of a 
Smithies design.  An alcohol flame does not radiate to the sides and is much 
less intense than a coal fire, hence the need to capture the heat somewhat 
differently.  Water tubes and porcupine quills in contact with the flame 
work more efficiently here but these are features that would burn out very 
quickly in the intensity of a coal fire.

The firebox of our butane fired favorite, Ruby, is an airtight single flue 
firetube design, quite different than the other two.  I remember the 
kerosene fired sidearm water heater from my early days at home in Brooklyn.  
That was a round burner in a cylinder that enclosed a coil of pipe within 
which the water was heated.  There again, quite a different design from 
those mentioned above.

Similarly, a gasoline fired boiler might well require a very different 
firebox design, probably something that more closely resembles the coal 
fired firebox or sidearm heater, rather than something like the water tube 
or single flue designs.  Those differences alone can make the difference 
between a boiler that last for generations vs. one that lasts for a few 
seasons when fired by a fuel for which it was not designed.

There is much room for experimentation here.  The folks who are 
experimenting with the radiant burner concept are setting the example for 
the rest of us.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "Gary Broeder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: fuel question
>Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:01:19 -0800
>
>Regarding the use of white gas:
>
>  I have posted on this before although it has been some time. I have a 
>model
>traction engine that my Grandfather scratch built some 80 years ago. It was
>designed to use white gas and still runs to this day on said fuel..

_
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com
 

PROJECT FRAMES ARRIVED

[Casey Sterbenz]

Jim,

My set of Project frames arrived in yesterday's mail at Crofton, MD 
(Washington DE - Baltimore - Annapolis area).  Much thanx!

The frames were nicely cut with only a very slight burr along the edges that 
should file off easily.  I checked the size and shape of the frames against 
the drawings in the Project book and everything was spot on.  All the 
dimples for drilling were correctly located from the edges of the frame and 
from each other.

About the only discrepancy I noticed was that the cutouts in the tender 
frames were somewhat larger than those shown on the drawings.  That should 
not be a problem, there should be enough room to mount axlegard castings 
without them hanging over into the cutouts.

Again, much thanx for making these items available!

Casey Sterbenz

_
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
 

Re: Cylinder vs. Axle Alignment

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

This weekend I visited the B&O museum in Baltimore, mostly to introduce my 
2-1/2 year old grandson to model trains.  The Capitol Trackers, a 1/4" scale 
3-rail modular group, had an extensive display set up on the turntable.

While visiting the museum, I took a good look at the full size locomotives 
on display.  Several of them have cylinders mounted at an angle to the axis 
of the main frame.  In all cases these inclined cylinders are in line with 
the center of the wheel to which the main rod is attached.  These are all 
among the oldest locomotives in the collection, none newer than about 1870.  
All the newer locomotives have the cylinders aligned with the axis of the 
main frame, at the centerline of the driving wheels.

The B&O museum hosts a library that includes drawings and documents relating 
to the design and construction of locomotives in the collection.  There may 
be some information available on the topic of cylinder alignment in that 
collection.  The library is open to Museum members who want to do their own 
research.  The Museum library staff will do research for a fee.  Check the 
web site at http://www.borail.org/archives.asp and 
http://www.borail.org/fees.asp for more info.

Casey Sterbenz


_
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
 

Re: charcoal

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Last time I looked, the aquarium charcoal they sell around here (Washington 
DC, Baltimore, Annapolis MD area) is made from bone.  Not burnable.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: Richard Finlayson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: charcoal
>Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:24:36 -0800
>
>Up until I shoved everything into storage I was using mesquite
>charcoal, intended for BBQ use, as charcoal for coal firing. I threw
>it all out when we everything went into storage. I now need more
>charcoal, but smashing up that mesquite was a huge mess, and was only
>available in huge bags, though cheap. Searching for a better way...
>
>Can aquarium charcoal be used? Convenient package, small size...
>
>Any good ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Richard
>--
>==
>Richard Finlayson
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
 

Re: Dee & Project books

[Casey Sterbenz]

Jim,

The Dee and Project books arrived in Suburban Maryland (Washington DC - 
Baltimore - Annapolis area) yesterday.  Much thanx for your effort!

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Jim Curry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Dee & Project books
>Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:39:39 -0500
>
>To all who ordered these books:
>They were dropped into the mail on 11-28 in sunny old England.  It'll be
>interesting to see how long a book order takes to arrive.
>
>Jim Curry
>


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

VACUUM TUBE RC (was: Post-modernist wicks)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Check your back issues of Popular Science magazine from the mid '50's.  
There were several articles about how to build vacuum tube RC outfits for 
use in model airplanes and boats, complete with transmitting antennas that 
required a tripod mount!  My high school buddies used outfits like that in 
their RC airplanes.  I could never afford such a luxury as a radio control 
setup.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Post-modernist wicks
>Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 12:06:33 -0800
>
>Steve and Trent,
>
>That vacuum tube RC--would one need a back pack or a cart??
>
>Geoff.
>


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: Silver Soldering Aluminum

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Sorry to be so tardy with this reply.  Small Parts has a solder/flux kit for 
aluminum.  Try the following link:

http://www.smallparts.com/Bulletin%20Files/Tools_Products/Solder%20Alsolder%20500.htm

Casey Sterbenz

>From: Ferdinand Mels Subject: Silver Soldering Aluminum Date: Wed, 21 Nov 
>2001 18:14:09 -0800
>
>Hi everyone
>I am trying to find out if anyone has had experience with silver >soldering
>aluminum T6 6061  -  How does it compare to stainless or brass any >weird
>side effects - Thanks in advance cheers Ferdinand.


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

INDOOR LIVE STEAM (was Re: clearances)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Trent,

What a WONDERFUL idea!  Just the thing to add heat and moisture to the 
indoor atmosphere during the winter!  As a bonus, spilled oil could be 
buffed into a wood floor for that long lasting shine!

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: clearances
>Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:10:33 -0600
>

>
>   Although, without her I would probably be running live steam indoors
>around the living room floor. Hmmm. Now there's an idea! 
>

>
>Later,
>Trent


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: G1MRA news

[Casey Sterbenz]

My issue arrived last Friday in Suburban Maryland (Annapolis-Balto-Wash DC 
area).

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: G1MRA news
>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 22:16:45 -0800
>
>Hi  Jim  (and  List  Members),
>

>
>Has  anyone  on  the  list,  in USA,  received  their  copies yet?.
>Regards,
> Tony D.


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: GR steam article

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Seems like Garden Railways magazine is aimed more at the sparkie and general 
interst modelers, with some crossover to the live steam interest modelers.  
Steam in the Garden magazine is focused on the narrower live steam interest. 
  Given that we already have a specialty magazine for live steam interest, 
is it really a problem that Garden Railways does not publish a ton of live 
steam articles?  I take both magazines and they compliment each other 
nicely.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: Question on copper (long reply)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Victor,

Much thanx for the additional info on calculating for stays.

Casey Sterbenz



>If you really want to quantify flat plate stay spacing  in model boilers,
>here's the formula. It really won't produce a better boiler than just
>following the examples of LBSC and Martin Evans designs but it will allow
>you to manipulate stay spacing however you want.
>


>Victor Lacy


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: Question on copper (long reply)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

There is a formula in the book “Model Boilers and Boilermaking” by K.N. 
Harris that can be used to determine the safe working pressure for copper 
boilers.  The same formula can be reworked to determine how thick a copper 
shell must be to safely handle the intended working steam pressure.

The formula for determining the safe working pressure for a boiler shell of 
a given thickness of copper is:  P = (2 * T * t) / D.  In this formula, P is 
the working pressure of the steam, T is the thickness of the boiler shell 
material in inches, t is a constant based on the tensile strength of copper 
with an 8:1 safety factor built in, and D is the internal diameter of the 
boiler shell in inches.  The formula assumes that the boiler shell is made 
of solid drawn tube.  If the boiler is rolled from flat sheet with an 
overlapped, riveted and properly silver soldered joint, the safe working 
pressure may be taken to be ¾ of the value calculated by the formula.

The constant “t” is based on using 25,000 pounds per square inch as the 
tensile strength of copper, divided by 8, the 8:1 safety factor.  For our 
calculation this comes to 3125.

Lets see what the safe working pressure would be for a 2” diameter boiler 
made from a sheet of .034” thick copper, using the formula and assumptions 
stated above.  P = (2 * 0.034 * 3125) / 2 which comes to 106.25 psi.  
Reducing this to ¾ of its value, allowing for the reduced strength of the 
lap joint, we get 79.6875, nominally 80 psi.  This is suitable for virtually 
any model locomotive, including those as large as 1:8 scale (7-1/4” - 7-1/2” 
gauge track) riding engines.

The formula for calculating the thickness of metal required to contain a 
given pressure is given as T = (P * D) / (2 * t).  Again, the result must be 
modified if the boiler is rolled from copper sheet instead of being made 
from solid drawn copper tube.  The variables and constants are the same as 
in the formula previously described.

Suppose we want to use 80 psi working pressure in a 2” diameter boiler.  The 
required thickness of copper to contain this pressure is calculated as T = 
(80 * 2) / (2 * 3125) which comes to 0.0256” thick.  Applying the correction 
for an overlapped riveted soldered joint (divide the result by ¾) we obtain 
a final figure of 0.034133, very close to the material that is on hand.

These calculations apply to the boiler shell, not to the ends of the boiler 
(tube sheets, back heads, throat plates, firebox shells).  The flat shape of 
such boiler parts is a relatively weak shape that must be supported by stays 
to keep it from deforming.  If there are fire tubes running the length of 
the boiler, these function as stays in the water space to support the boiler 
tube sheets.  Additional stays would be needed in the steam space.  
Additional stays would be required to support the firebox sheets.  The 
calculation of safe stress for any given flat plate and array of stays is 
beyond my understanding at this point.

For reference, both the small (2-1/2” diameter) and large (3” diameter) Tich 
boilers designed by LBSC call for 18 gauge sheet for the shell, 16 gauge for 
the front sheet and throat plate, and 13 gauge for the back head.  These 
translate to 0.048”, 0.064” and 0.092”, respectively.  These boilers are 
intended to handle 80 psi working pressure.  Based on the Harris formula, 
applying the correction for rolling the boiler from flat sheet, the small 
boiler shell has a safe working pressure of 90 psi and the large, 75 psi.

Please understand that I am simply passing on these notes based on 
previously published information.  I take no responsibility for the 
correctness of the formula or its proper application.

Casey Sterbenz


>- Original Message -
>From: Terry Griner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 8:59 AM
>Subject: Question on copper;
>
>
>Harry, and any others,
>   I got a sheet of copper that is .034" thickness. Would this be thick
>enough to be a boiler? I looked in my Mechanics handbook, and found that 
>the
>copper is about 22 gauge. I am thinking that it will be fine. Let me know.
>Terry Griner
>Columbus Ohio USA


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

RE: BAGRS LOCO

[Casey Sterbenz]

Thank you.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: BAGRS LOCO
>Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 14:31:12 -0700
>
>Sent the file to Dave after adding some directions and dimensions, use it 
>as
>a full size pattern.  The overall dimensions are 2x2x1 inches.
>
>Sincerely
>Steve Ciambrone
>Sr. Test Engineer
>L-3 Ocean Systems
>
.


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

RE: BAGRS LOCO

[Casey Sterbenz]

Steve,

I'm interested.  And why not post the file to the web site for all to 
download?

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: BAGRS LOCO
>Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 10:55:39 -0700
>
>Made the alcohol burner from the SITG articles with my own tank from brass
>sheet.  The capacity is about 50cc, last run was 20 minutes without
>refueling and then the water ran out.  I have a Visio file of the tank if
>anyone wants it.
>
>Sincerely
>Steve Ciambrone
>Sr. Test Engineer
>L-3 Ocean Systems
>


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: O.T. - "The Train" movie on TCM

[Casey Sterbenz]

I've always liked "The Great Locomotive Chase", lots of scenes of 
interesting equipment.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: factoid

[Casey Sterbenz]

Catapults on aircraft carriers are all steam powered, too.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: factoid
>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 18:26:17 EDT
>
>Hi,
>The History Channel had a presentation about submarines and torpedoes 
>today.
>I never realized that virtually all torpedoes were STEAM powered until mid
>1943!
>Don't know if they carried water or used sea water. It appeared to be a 
>flash
>boiler powering a turbine.
>Keep your steam up!
>Mr. Lunkenheimer


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Re: Ruby, Hot Water

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends:

I bought a set of drain cocks from Sulphur Springs a while back but they are 
just a little too big for Ruby.  Even the smallest size is long enough to be 
very close to the height of the rail head, making them vulnerable to 
breaking off in the event that Ruby derails or upsets.  The drains are 
activated by a lever arm that is tough to manipulate manually, especially 
when Ruby is running, and that means an extra servo is needed if you want to 
activate the drains by radio control.  For manual or servo operation you'd 
have to design some sort of linkage to an outsize lever to get things to 
work.

Much better would be some device that operated automatically, like the ones 
Kevin O'Connor made, shown in the Clark Lord article in SitG a while back.  
That work requires a precision lathe and some fussy fitting to keep things 
steam tight while still allowing for the passage of condensate.  Not beyond 
the abilities of most of us, but I'm sure there are many who don't have 
access to a precision lathe.

I haven't yet tried making an O'Connor style set of drain cocks, and I would 
be very interested in hearing from others about how they are approaching 
this problem.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Ruby, Hot Water
>Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2001 19:17:49 -0500
>
>Hello,
>
>   If you wanted to go the "ready made" route, Sulphur Springs sells
>small cylinder drain cocks.
>   In their catalog #5, page 17, they have the cylinder drain cocks
>listed. They have 3 sizes listed. 5/32"-40 threads ($46.00/2pr.),
>3/16"-40 ($46.00/2pr.), 1/4"-40 ($55.00/2pr.). The prices listed may or
>may not be correct since my price sheet is about a year old.
>   I understand that the Paule's (Sulphur Springs owners) have had some
>sort of emergency and so you may have a slight bit of trouble getting in
>touch with them for a while. Hope the emergency is over soon for them.
>   Hope this helps.
>
>Later,
>Trent
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

RE: Coal fired BAGRS

[Casey Sterbenz]

That is a nice looking boiler design on the Henk Bunte web site.  The design 
appears very similar to that used on the LBSC "Tich".  (Interesting, the 
Tich with its 2" dia drivers is hardly much bigger than Ruby!)  It is also 
similar to the design used in the Little Engines 1/4" scale 4-6-4 and 4-8-4 
boilers.  I've got another book around somewhere by LBSC showing a coal 
fired boiler for a 1/4" scale locomotive called "Bat."  It looks like Henk's 
boiler is well designed.

I notice that there are no crown stays above the firebox in Henk's design.  
Would that be a problem at the 60 psi working pressure noted in the writeup?

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Shyvers, Steve Subject: RE: Coal fired BAGRS Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 
>16:42:18 -0700

>Dave and the list,

>Maybe I was joking a little about the Ruby. Take a close look at Henk
>Bunte's description of his home-made coal-fired loco on his website at
>www.modelbouwatelier.nl. The firebox is about 7/8" wide and 2-3/8" long per
>his drawing, which you can download. The firebox is deep and the  boiler
>diameter is about 2-3/8". These dimensions will make Ruby look  chunky, but
>it might be possible to slim it down a bit. Undoubtedly one would have to
>sacrifice some scale proportions in favor of functionality, just as the
>BAGRS loco does.

>Regards,
>Steve


_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

AMBITION (was: CYLINDER PORT FACES)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Terry,

Frustrating, isn't it?  to have all these ideas and ambitions but no time to 
follow the dreams?!?  I discovered 'long time ago that when I'm working I 
have money but no time and when I'm not working I have time but no money.  
So, right now, I'm stockpiling things (parts, tools, plans and knowledge) 
against the day of retirement.  I should be able to hit the ground running, 
building and operating to my heart's content.

Trouble is, I have too many hobbies!  The foundry and machine shop work are 
a spin off from my interest in steam engines which evolves from my 
fascination with railroads.  I'm also a boat builder, and that takes up gobs 
of time.  I can convince my wife to go sailing with me, or out in the canoe, 
but I've not yet been able to convince her to try her hand at lathe work.  I 
want to put in a garden railway and she loves to garden, so that should work 
out OK, once we're out of the town house and into a place with a back yard.

High on my list of retirement projects is to build a full size working steam 
launch, something between 18' and 23' long.  Just the thing for cruising 
around the Chesapeake Bay (I live in Maryland, near Annapolis) on summer 
evenings.  That ambition has led me to take courses in boat building in 
Maine and Virginia.  Boat building is not really a new dream for me.  My 
father always wanted to build a cruising sailboat and tour the world.  He 
raised 7 kids instead.  I must have picked up some of his ambition, 'cause 
I've already built two canoes and a sailboat, several cradle boats for the 
grandbabies, and assisted builders on a half dozen other projects.

Y'know, if I'd stop fooling around with boats I'd probably have time to work 
on my railroad things!

It occurs to me that if I never started another project, I'll have to live 
to be 250 years old to finish everything that I've already started.  You can 
see that I plan to retire TO something, rather than FROM something.  I don't 
think I could stand to retire only to sit around and watch TV.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "Terry Griner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: CYLINDER PORT FACES
>Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:01:09 -0400
>
>Casey,
>   Sounds like we are in the same boat, with a few difference, I don't have 
>the wood shop, and I've got 20+ years until retirement, and two beautiful 
>children and a very lovely (and understanding) wife. So I get one weekend a 
>month to play with hot metal, and every Tuesday night to make chips. Also 
>there are the odd evenings when everyone goes outside, and I work on my 
>elevated track. Some day it will be done, and then I'll get to run trains! 
>Just have to finish the locomotive... ;-)
>Seriously, I am lucky, my girls are interested in learning, everything 
>daddy does is neat, so I can sneak in some shop time, as "tool room 
>training"
>Terry Griner
>Columbus Ohio USA
>Building a freelance 0-6-0 sidetank locomotive

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: CYLINDER PORT FACES

[Casey Sterbenz]

Much thanx to all for the replies to my query about litharge!  I do fully 
understand that this stuff is made of lead and is therefore very dangerous 
to use.  I'll head down to the auto parts store this weekend to look up some 
of the other materials mentioned in various posts.

I'm not too worried about having to disassemble the cylinder/port face 
assembly, so for bronze or brass cylinders I'll probably silver solder the 
port faces in place.  This other "goo", whatever I come up with, will be 
used primarily on iron cylinders and parts.

'Course, all this assumes that I'll ever get around to making cylinders this 
way!  At the moment, my machine shop consists of an ancient Unimat SL.  I'm 
in the process of fabricating a vertical slide that will be needed to do the 
milling required to cut the steam passages in an embryo cylinder.  The 
Unimat can handle anything I'm likely to try in the Gauge 1 world.  Next 
thing I need will be some embryo cylinders and separate port face castings 
to work with.

That means I'll probably have to make my own castings.  No problem.  My 
backyard foundry consists of a pottery kiln and home brew green sand that, 
so far, has yielded only marginal results using aluminum as a casting 
material.  I picked up some Petrobond sand earlier this year and that should 
solve most of the problems I've experienced.  Once I'm satisfied with that, 
I'll graduate from aluminum to bronze.  Hopefully, my technique will improve 
to where I can produce useable cylinders and drive wheels, and then maybe 
even locomotive frames!

And THAT means I've got to get busy producing patterns.  No problem.  My 
wood working shop is set up for boat building, so I have all the tools and 
materials necessary to produce patterns.  So all I need now is the time to 
work on these things.

Now that IS a problem.  Retirement is still some 5 years, 9 months, 15 days, 
8 more or less hours away.  The paying job knocks the middle out of the day 
at least 5 days a week, leaving precious little time to work on things 
railroad.  I don't want to wish my life away, but gee whiz . . . .

Casey Sterbenz
_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: CYLINDER PORT FACES

[Casey Sterbenz]

Much thanx for the info, Bill.  Now, the next question is . . .

. . . actually several questions.

1.  Is there a commercial source for small quantities of litharge?  As in, 
is there a trade name for this stuff?

My "google" search turned up a commercial outlet in India but no US branches 
or outlets.  Many more items that appeared in "google" point to the extreme 
health hazards of this stuff, making me wonder it its worth using.  That 
leads to the next question.

2.  Is there some other goo stuff out there in the market that might more 
conveniently/safely be used when fabricating cylinders with separate port 
faces?

If there is no goo available, I imagine that I could prepare steam tight 
gaskets from thin copper.  I've used copper gaskets with good results on 
other projects.  I just have to remember to anneal the gasket before 
re-using it.

3.  Has anybody out there tried fabricating cylinders using separate port 
faces?  If so, how were the laminated pieces kept steam tight?

Maybe I could cut gaskets from some sheet of composition something or other 
used in IC engines, something that I could get at Pep Boys or Trak Auto?

Trouble with this (and with the copper gasket idea) is the close tolerances 
needed to make a reasonably sized model cylinder.  I'm thinking steam ports 
about 1/16" wide with a 1/16" wide land between the steam ports and the 
exhaust port for a cylinder of 1/2" - 5/8" bore.  Thats mighty fine fitting 
for a gasket made using hand tools, like an X-Acto knife.  I'd really prefer 
smearing on some goo when fixing the port face to the cylinder.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "William F. Kaiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: CYLINDER PORT FACES
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 09:05:50 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>litharge (lnth4drj4, ln-thdrj4) noun
>A yellow lead oxide, PbO, used in storage batteries and glass and as a
>pigment. Also called lead monoxide.
>
>>--
>Bill Kaiser
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

CYLINDER PORT FACES

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

This is a request for information directed to our British cousins, although 
I'll gladly accept a response from anyone who knows the answer.

I'm reading the chapter on Cylinder Design and Construction in my copy of 
the K.N. Harris book "Model Stationary and Marine Steam Engines."  In that 
chapter there is a discussion about milling the steam and exhaust ports in 
the cylinder, then fixing a separate port face to the cylinder.  For 
gunmetal (bronze), silver soldering is the method recommended to fix the 
port face to the cylinder.  The method for cast iron is described as 
applying a "thin paste of litharge and glycerine" to cement the port face to 
the cylinder.

Glycerine I understand, but what is "litharge?"

Casey Sterbenz
_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

TRACKS AHEAD (was: O.T. Garden Railway on TV)

[Casey Sterbenz]

In the Washington, DC area, Tracks Ahead used to be carried by the Howard 
University PBS station.  I haven't been able to find it for several years.  
Does anybody in the DC-Baltimore area know where/if it is still being 
broadcast locally?

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: O.T. Garden Railway on TV
>Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 09:09:04 -0500
>
>Hello Kevin,
>
>   Tracks Ahead? I'm not familiar with that one. Which station airs it? 
>More
>info, plaaase.

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: G1MRA Project Loco

[Casey Sterbenz]

Is there a domestic US outlet for this book?  Or does it have to be ordered 
directly from England?  If so, what is the approximate cost in $US?

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "Peter Trounce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco
>Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 19:35:13 -0400
>
>John,
>G1MRA is the Gauge One Model Railway Association and the Project book is a
>detailed set of instructions on how to build a live-steam 0-6-0 loco.
>Go to:
>http://www.gaugeone.org/
>to Resources and look for the Project book.

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

MOVE THE CLOCK (was: Turning wheels)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Hey, guys,

In the Spring its "Spring Ahead!"  That means we LOSE an hour!  Officially 
at 2:00 AM Saturday night/Sunday morning the time magically changes to 3:00 
AM.  If you move the clocks back, you'll be two hours off!

Casey Sterbenz

>From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: Turning wheels
>Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:07:22 -0800
>
>Hi  Steve,  (Mr. Wheel--er  and  Dealer)
>   Looking  forward  to  the  weekend,  and  sniffing  some  cinders.
>I  understand  we
>change  the  clocks  back  this  weekend.  Do  you  think  if  we   all
>synchronize  our  watches  on  Saturday  at  mid-day  for  an  an  extra
>hour  steaming,  (and  not  Sunday  am),  that  Gary  will  notice?.
>   Who  else  is  going?.
>   Tony D.

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

New Anodizing Dye Colors

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

A recent thread concerned non-paint finishes for brass, copper, silver 
solder, what have you.  Here is a link to coloring agents for aluminum.  I 
know these will likely not have much application for our steam locomotives, 
but there may be application for rolling stock, especially in larger gauges. 
  This company may also have available chemical coloring agents for boiler 
materials.

Casey Sterbenz

>-Original Message-
>From: CASWELL Inc. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 7:23 PM
>To: List Member
>Subject: New Anodizing Dye Colors
>
>
>CASWELL Inc. - http://www.caswellplating.com
>
>We've added four new colors to our range of anodizing dyes.
>
>- Olive Drab
>- Golden Orange
>- Grey BL
>- Brown GL
>
>All come in a 4oz bottle that makes 2 gallons of dye and are US$9.00
>
>They can be found at http://www.caswellplating.com/anodizedye.htm
>
>Our anodizing kit can be found at
>http://www.caswellplating.com/aluminum.htm
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: ANOTHER RUBY PROTOTYPE

[Casey Sterbenz]

Vance,

Please remember, this one is a miner from upstate New York!!

Casey


>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: ANOTHER RUBY PROTOTYPE
>Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:17:49 -0700
>
>Very nice engine, but what happened to the steam dome cover on the poor
>thing?  She's dressed quite elegantly, but forgot to do up some buttons and
>her ugly side is hanging out!
>
>-vance-

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

ANOTHER RUBY PROTOTYPE

[Casey Sterbenz]

While searching for something else I came across this photo.

http://www.bitnik.com/RMLI/1.html

Looks like those folks "way out east" have some neat projects on their 
plate!

Casey Sterbenz

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Turning wheels

[Casey Sterbenz]

Harry,

Much thanx for the info!

Casey


>From: Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Turning wheels
>Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:00:30 -0600
>
>At 09:13 AM 3/20/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >There also seems to be some further machine work that must be
> >done on the rim to produce the rough flange and raised tire edge.
> >Presumably, this is done by chucking the pattern on a lathe mandrel, 
>using
> >the axle hole which is then cored in the mold before casting the master?
> >Casey
>
>Casey (et al),
> Axle holes are rarely cored into castings, at least typical castings,
>in Ga1 or any other scale.

SNIP

>
>Cheers,
>Harry
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: wheels

[Casey Sterbenz]

Royce,

I just finished looking at the images you posted at YahooGroups.com.  Very 
informative!  I do appreciate your sharing this work with us.

May I assume that the patterns for the counterweights and the crank boss are 
simply glued in place, with everything then faired in using some brand of 
body putty?  There also seems to be some further machine work that must be 
done on the rim to produce the rough flange and raised tire edge.  
Presumably, this is done by chucking the pattern on a lathe mandrel, using 
the axle hole which is then cored in the mold before casting the master?

Casey Sterbenz

>From: Royce Woodbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: wheels
>Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 06:45:03 -0800
>

SNIP

>I took a
>bunch of pics yesterday as I started over and posted them at :
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Small_Scale_Steam_Models/files/Miscellaneous/Driver%20Pattern/.
>I hope this link gets through as majordomo rejected my
>previous emails as containing "attachments" which aren't
>permitted.  Maybe this will work.
>
>royce w

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

SCRATCH BUILDER SURVEY (was: wheels)

[Casey Sterbenz]

>From: Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: wheels
>Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:08:14 -0800
>
>Well let's try the direct approach.
>
>Are you (list member) scratch building now?
>
>Are you contemplating starting?
>
>Do you own (or have access to) a lathe, mill or both?
>
>If so which size and brand?
>
I am scratch building/"kit" building a Little Engines 4-6-4 in 1/4" scale.  
I bought the driver wheel and cylinder castings, along with some 
miscellaneous parts, but all else will be fabricated from bar, sheet, etc.  
I actually started this in early 1996 but three boat building projects have 
gotten in the way.

A Unimat SL, 1970 vintage, is the heart of my shop.  A long time ago I used 
the Unimat to build an Open Column Launch Engine from an American Edelstaal 
"kit".  That was my first effort at machining and it actually worked!  I 
still have it.  More recently I scratch built a "dickens" based on the 
articles in Live Steam Magazine for Feb-Mar-Apr 1976.

Right now I'm in the process of building a vertical slide for light milling 
work in the Unimat, using a casting I produced myself from aluminum scrap.  
Once thats done I'm planning a compound top slide for the Unimat.  All I'll 
need then is some way to cut screw threads and I'll be in business.

I do my casting using a pottery kiln and home brew green sand.  I've been 
having a hard time tempering the sand  - its either too wet, causing the 
castings to be ruined by the steam, or too dry, leaving sand inclusions in 
the castings.  Not too satisfactory, but at least I have a few castings that 
are good enough to be worth machining into useful parts.  I'm satisfied with 
this as a first effort.

I have a start at making a Dave Gingery lathe.  Again, the aluminum castings 
using home brew green sand leave something to be desired.  If I get stuck on 
this project I may just break down and get one of those little 7x10 lathes 
advertised by Harbor Freight and Grizzly.  This has the same capacity as the 
Gingery lathe and should be OK for anything up to 1:16 live steam modeling.  
Either way, I should be able to rig up a vertical slide on one of these 
larger lathes, like I'm doing on my Unimat, for light milling work.

I bought some Petrobond oil sand last month which should make my castings 
much cleaner.  Lets see how the Petrobond oil sand works out when I try 
recasting some of the machine parts this Spring.  At the same time I bought 
a couple of graphite crucibles with the intent of producing bronze castings. 
  That opens up the possibility of producing cylinders and wheels.

I've got a heavy duty air-propane torch for boiler brazing to supplement the 
little oxy-mapp torch I have been using up to now.

Now, if only I can get these boat building projects out of the way, I may 
just have the time to get back to concentrating on things for the railroad!

Casey Sterbenz
_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: wheels

[Casey Sterbenz]

Trent,

Keep talking.  I'm not in a position to do anything right now but I am 
looking for something (besides grandbabies and church work and boat building 
and playing with my wife) to keep me busy once I retire some 5 years 10 
months 2 weeks and a few odd days from now.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: wheels
>Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 16:02:41 -0600
>
>Hello Everyone,
>
>I
>suspect that there would need to be a single entity purchase the wheels
>and then market them. Marketing has never been my forte' or I would
>consider it myself.
>   Anyone interested?
>
>Later,
>Trent
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Pattern pool

[Casey Sterbenz]

More years ago than I care to remember, Live Steam magazine ran a monthly 
feature about a pattern pool.  Each article was a list of patterns that 
would be made available for general distribution.  As I recall, the listing 
included the name and address of the person who had custody fo the pattern, 
along with a description of the pattern.

Does anyone else out there remember that feature?  or anything about how 
well pattern sharing worked in practice?  or how many people actually took 
advantage of such an opportunity?  or who might be able to relate some 
experiences in that effort, which might free us from reinventing the wheel 
again?

Casey Sterbenz



_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Casting - Lost wax

[Casey Sterbenz]

Try http://www.lindsaybks.com/ for various books on casting.  There are 
several listed on the web site, but nothing specifically about lost wax 
casting.  Seems to me there was one in a recent print catalog that you can 
order for free from the web site.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Terry Griner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Casting - Lost wax
>Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 10:29:42 -0500
>
>Doug,
>   I'm not Salty, but I would recommend your local community college/Art 
>school. There are books out there too.
>
>Terry Griner
>Columbus Ohio USA
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Spoke.

Casey


>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings)
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 13:18:16 EST
>
>First, start two columns to tally the results:
>Box Pock and Spoke.
>And away we go!
>Walt

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Why not get together the folks who want a particular wheel, produce a 
pattern, and then go to one of the suppliers with a firm order for such and 
such a number of units?  That might be just the incentive they need to 
expand the available selection of wheels.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was Iron castings)
>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 16:08:27 -0700
>
> > Mark Wood in the UK has  Baldwin C-16 and 14T Heisler wheel castings (a 
>la
> > Catatonk) and an enormous selection of _accurate_ British types.  
>Pricey,
> > but the best.
>
>Yep, like I said ... a very limited selection (for most of our purposes).  
>I would
>love it if we could get something of the quality of Mark Wood's wheels 
>here.
>(You should all buy one wheel just to hold it in your hand and sigh).  I 
>think
>we're still too small a population to warrant that kind of infrastructure, 
>though.
>
>regards,
>   -vance-
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: ZINC ALLOYS (was: Iron castings)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

This is a correction to my previous post.  The melting point for ZA alloys 
is around 900-1100 degrees, not the 1800 I posted earlier.  Pure aluminum 
melts at around 1190 degrees, alloys at somewhat lower temperatures.  Bronze 
(copper base) alloys melt in the 1700-1900 degree range, depending on the 
mix of metals used.  All these readings are in degrees fahrenheit.

Casey Sterbenz

>
>I bought some wheel castings from Little Engines some years ago for my 1/4"
>scale 4-6-4 that are a ZA alloy, probably ZA-12.  The stuff melts at a much
>lower temperature than good gray iron (around 1800 degrees, vs. 2800
>degrees), making it less expensive for foundry operations.  The castings
>cool much faster than iron, so they can be shaken out of the casting sand
>much sooner, cutting down on production time.  ZA alloys are also much
>softer than iron, making the machining of the parts easier.
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

ZINC ALLOYS (was: Iron castings)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

ZA alloys are Zinc-Aluminum.  ZA-12 is 12% aluminum, ZA-27 is 27% aluminum, 
and so on.  I can't find my notes that I copied from a metallurgy book a 
couple of years ago that include something about the properties of the 
alloys.  I'll keep looking for my notes and will pass on the information if 
ever I find it.

I bought some wheel castings from Little Engines some years ago for my 1/4" 
scale 4-6-4 that are a ZA alloy, probably ZA-12.  The stuff melts at a much 
lower temperature than good gray iron (around 1800 degrees, vs. 2800 
degrees), making it less expensive for foundry operations.  The castings 
cool much faster than iron, so they can be shaken out of the casting sand 
much sooner, cutting down on production time.  ZA alloys are also much 
softer than iron, making the machining of the parts easier.

I haven't gotten around to machining the wheels so I have no idea how the 
wearing qualities compare to iron.  My guess is the softer material will 
wear quicker than iron, although that means less wear and tear on the rails.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Iron castings
>Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:49:26 -0600
>
>Vance,
>   ZA alloys? Enlighten me (even though I feel I should already know).
>Later,
>Trent
>
>
>VR Bass wrote:
>
> > Also, I was under the impression that the suppliers to the ride-on 
>scales were
> > going to ZA alloys in place of iron.  How widespread is that?
>

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

Silver Soldering

[Casey Sterbenz]

Several books by LBSC cover silver soldering for model boiler construction 
in great detail.  The ones on building "Tich" and "Virginia" have the most 
detail.  I don't know if either book is currently in print.

Casey Sterbenz
_
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
 

RE: Ruby Beauty Pageant

[Casey Sterbenz]

Why not a pink bikini Ruby?  After all, Thomas the Tank Engine is now old 
enough to have a love interest in his life!?!

Casey Sterbenz

>From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: Ruby Beauty Pageant
>Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:34:22 -0500 (EST)
>
>Aahhh!  No pink Rubys!  I can just see where this could go!
>

_
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
 

SILVER SOLDERING EQUIPMENT (was Silver bearing solder)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Make friends with your local commercial refrigerator repairman.  He uses 
silver solder ("REAL" silver solder) to repair the compressor piping on 
refrigeration units.  He can tell you where to buy the stuff, and may even 
be able to get you some supplies wholesale.  That stuff is plenty strong for 
making small scale live steam boilers and has a high enough (in excess of 
1000 deg F) melting point to be safe for boilers for our model trains.  
Problem is, it takes a hefty torch to get enough heat into the metal to 
allow this solder to flow into the joints properly.

Recently I bought a Victor brand air-propane torch for about $70 that   
hooks up to a propane cylinder like the one I use on my barbecue grill.  It 
generates about 180,000 BTUs per hour, enough volume of heat to silver 
solder 1/8" copper.  Propane burns at around 3200 degrees F, regardless of 
whether its in a hand held Bernz-O-Matic type torch or in a bigger torch 
like the one I just got.  Its the volume of heat that makes the difference 
when you want to silver solder materials used to make small scale steam 
boilers.  The hand held torch only puts out about 9000 BTUs per hour, not 
near enough to silver solder the copper we would use to make our small 
boilers.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Jim Curry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Silver bearing solder
>Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 16:43:59 -0500
>
>Guys and Gals FYI:
>I know many people here use the Stay Bright silver bearing solder.  It's
>typically sold in .5 oz. containers for $7-$8/unit.  I was in my local
>welding supply shop this afternoon and found a 1 lb. box of the Stay Bright
>for $35.  The bottle of flux is separate(I didn't need it so didn't price
>it).
>
>Happy soldering!
>
>Jim
>

_
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Entry Level Live Steam - We need 1:32 models.

[Casey Sterbenz]

This sounds an awful lot like recurring threads on the OTrains list - two 
rail vs three rail and 1-1/4" gauge vs P:48.  Looks like the scale/gauge 
controversy is not limited to 1/4" scale modeling!

Casey Sterbenz

>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Tony)
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Entry Level Live Steam - We need 1:32 models.
>Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 21:54:38 GMT
>
>
>You should see what the reaction is from the 1:29 manufacturers when
>anyone has the temerity to question the accuracy of 1:29 scale models
>on 45mm gauge track.
>Many of 1:29 LS'ers are horrified at the thought of 1:32 of making
>inroads into their precious Toy Scale and possibly/probably causing
>the end of the World by letting 1:32 become the more popular scale.
>Their spleen is then well vented in the various forums on the Net.
>
>At least one of the 1:29 manufacturers has admitted that they come
>from a Toy Train background and will stay in that field.  To even
>contemplate 1:32 is an anathema to them.  1:29 it is so there.
>
>Can't blame the 1:29 interests I suppose. They are simply looking
>after their own little bailiwick.
>

_
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
 

Re: Table Top machining

[Casey Sterbenz]

Is there anyone out there who has made (or at least started) making a Dave 
Gingery lathe?  I got a start on making one a couple of years ago, but 
substituted a length of H-column and some bar stock for the lathe bed in 
place of the aluminum casting that Dave Gingery designed.  My foundry skills 
are rudimentary at best.  I made the pattern for the main carriage and then 
got an acceptable casting after three or four tries.  I'm using home brew 
molding sand instead of buying commercial oil sand and that is a major 
problem for me right now.  My sand molds either crumble when I make the pour 
(the sand is too dry) or the melt froths and bubbles in the mold (the sand 
is too wet).  I've not yet arrived at that happy medium where things go as 
neatly as described in the books.  I bought some Acme threaded rod to use 
for the lead screw, but that is as far as I got.  I'll probably get back to 
working on the lathe once I have my current boatbuilding project out of the 
way.

Casey Sterbenz



_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.
 

Re: Driver Quartering

[Casey Sterbenz]

If anyone is interested in a quartering jig for use with plain round axle 
ends, there is a reprint of a Model Railroader article in the Files area of 
the OTrains list at eGroups.com.  Signup for the OTrains list is free and is 
required before you are allowed into the files area.

This jig can be made of a size suitable for G gauge modeling.

Casey Sterbenz


_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.
 

Re: Coupler height

[Casey Sterbenz]

Seems like the prototype had much the same problem in the link and pin days. 
  The block used to hold the link often had three slots to accommodate 
differences in height between various combinations of rolling stock from 
different roads.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "Phil. Paskos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Coupler height
>Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:37:50 -0400
>
>Vance;
>  You are,of course, correct. And with so many different manufacturers 
>making
>so many different gauges, I'm sure we'll be SOL on getting them too.
>
>Phil.P. Reading,PA.
>

_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.
 

Re: Butane tank

[Casey Sterbenz]

Last time I looked at a reference (must be 15 years ago by now) I seem to 
recall the vapor pressure of propane was something like 200 psi at around 70 
degrees fahrenheit.  Butane is something like 1/10th of that.

Please don't quote me on this.  I'm having a senior moment right now and 
probably won't remember this mailgram in the morning.

Casey Sterbenz


>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Butane tank
>Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 12:49:49 -0600
>
> > > quiet the well-known fears of the Propane Haters Society: ropane 
>debate,
> >
> > is the vapor pressure the issue or is it something else?
>
>Yes, propane's vapor pressure rises much faster than butane, so the tanks
>must be designed much more robustly.
>
>
>-vance-

_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.
 

Re: Denatured versus Ethyl Alcohol

[Casey Sterbenz]

Concerning the "invisible" flame of an alcohol wick, I once read somewhere 
that the flame can be made more visible by adding some baking soda to the 
fuel.  Anybody have any information about that?

Casey Sterbenz


>From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Denatured versus Ethyl Alcohol
>Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 11:44:24 -0700
>
>I use ethanol purchased from a local company that serves the drag racing
>hobby--5 gallons for 15 bucks! They only sell it to hobbyists--not to the
>general public. It's foul stuff (when burning) to breath and despite
>extreme care, as Vance warns, it has soaked up more water than a sponge in
>Brook Shields bath tub. So the wicks turn yellow but the locos fire well.
>The yellow flame is nearly always visible whatever material I use or how
>packed.
>
>The only time it is invisible is when it spills on the track and burns. My
>next wicks are going to be made out of plastic ties!! I'll fix  the 
>problem!
>
>Geoff.
>

_
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
http://profiles.msn.com.
 

Re: Ladder Chain & Sprokets

[Casey Sterbenz]

Stock Drive Products has a complete line of both inch and metric ladder 
chain and sprockets in plastic and metal.  They will send a free catalog, 
the thickness of a phone book, upon request.

They can be reached at www.sdp-si.com.

Casey Sterbenz
O Scale Kings #8

> >
> > Does anyone know of a good source to purchase ladde chain
> > and sprockets?
> >
> > Bruce Gathman, President
> > Eldorado Timber & Mining Co.
> > Tall Trees - Deep Shafts


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

BEESWAX ( spinoff of Re: Metal working tips)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Cakes of beeswax can be found at marine supply stores that have sailmaking 
supplies.  The stuff is used to lubricate the thread that sailmakers use.  
It can be found in the aisle where sailmaking supplies are displayed.

Casey Sterbenz



>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Metal working tips
>Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 10:56:36 EDT
>
>In a message dated 6/13/2000 10:42:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>writes:
>
> > Believe it or not spit works even better doesn't clog the blade as much.
>You
> >
> >  also never have to hunt it down.
>Also, you can rub the blade on a candle to lubricate it. Smells better than
>spit and doesn't rust the blade.
>Keith Taylor


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Working with metal

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Do you really want to do a live steam something in metal?  Do you want a 
beginner level project to give yourself practice in lathe work, silver 
soldering, accurate drilling and like that?  If so, you might want to look 
up the series on building "dickens" that was in Live Steam magazine for 
Feb-Mar-Apr 1976.  This is a 2-2-0 live steam engine originally made with a 
wheel contour to run on Lionel tubular rail track.  I made mine with a wheel 
contour to run on scale track.  If there is enough interest and if I can get 
permission from the copywrite holder I'll make copies of those articles 
available by posting them somewhere that everyone can see what the project 
is all about.

"Dickens" is not a scale model of anything, but it has the flavor of a 
British prototype.  Once you have built one you can probably figure out how 
to redesign the various components to evolve that small steamer into 
something more American looking.  It probably would not be too hard to scale 
the engine up to something that can run on 1-3/4" gauge track.

There is a folder with a few images of my "dickens" in the Files area of the 
OTrains list at eGroups.com.  Check out the images and if this little 
steamer looks interesting to you, contact me on or off list and lets chat 
about what it takes to put such a project together.

Casey Sterbenz
OSK #8
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Working with metal
>Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 11:37:21 -0600
>
> >A few years ago Model Railroader (sorry, Vance, but some of us got
> > started in live steam through steam locomotives that did not run on 
>steam)
>
>Didn't we all?  But some of us (self-congratulatory back-slapping all
>around here) moved past the hobby of creating superficial realism
>and on to the miniaturization of real machines.
>
> > ran a series on building a brass steam engine with more-or- less common
> > tools on the workbench.
>
>That was a fantastic series, and one I recommend to anyone
>interested in scratchbuilding.  You can find the dates and
>references of just about any model railroading article ever printed at
>the Train Magazine Index <http://index.mrmag.com>.  The author
>was Stephen Anderson, and the title of the series was something
>like "Building a Brass 4-6-0".  It ran in 1997, if I recall correctly.
>
> >Live Steam, March/April 1996, has an excellent article on silver
> > soldering, "The Art of Silver Soldering," pp. 20-27, by Kozo Hiraoka.
>
>Any of Kozo's books on locomotive construction is a fine resource
>for scratchbuilding.  I would enthusiastically urge reading one of
>them before reading any other book on loco construction; you will
>find yourself able to analyze and criticize the techniques used
>based on having been schooled in Kozo's methods.  Outstanding
>stuff!
>
>The first thing to do before undertaking a scratchbuilding project is
>to learn everything possible about the construction of the real thing.
>Once you understand the "how and why", you can make your own
>decisions about how to render that in a model.  Start with
>Kalmbach's "Model Railroader Cyclopedia Vol 1 - Steam
>Locomotives".  Daniel Weitzman's "Superpower" is an entertaining
>and detailed look at how a locomotive is constructed from the
>ground up, along with some social history of life in rural Ohio in the
>early 1900s.
>
>Once you know what your locomotive should look like and how it
>would have been constructed, you can just take the Roundhouse
>chassis and, as the sculptor said, cut away everything that doesn't
>look like your engine.
>
>-vance-


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: SILVER SOLDERING BOILERS

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

Much thanx for all the good advice, pointers and helpful hints!  This is the 
sort of thing that really makes this mailing list fun.

I'll be sure to post my boiler making progress to the list, once I actually 
get to doing something.  Given my usual speed of operation, it will likely 
be late Fall or next Winter before I actually get to work on the boilers 
that prompted my initial questions.

Casey Sterbenz



Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

SILVER SOLDERING THREAD

[Casey Sterbenz]

Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

SILVER SOLDERING BOILERS

[Casey Sterbenz]

Friends,

I'm tooling up to build a couple of locomotive boilers and am looking for 
advice on details.  I have already silver soldered couple of small boilers 
using an ordinary hand held propane torch and a hardware store variety 
oxy-Mapp torch so I know the basics of good silver soldering.  Now its time 
to get serious, building boilers of copper sheet that is much heavier than 
can be brazed or silver soldered with a small torch.

I'm debating about using air-acetylene, oxy-acetelyne, or air-propane. I'm 
leaning toward propane for several reasons.  Its cheaper than acetelyne.  
Its readily available.  It doesn't burn as hot as air-acetelyne or 
oxy-acetelyne so I'm less likely to burn the copper while brazing.  It still 
burns hot enough do silver soldering or brazing, given that BTUs are 
generated faster than can be dissipated by the copper used to make the 
boiler.

I'm looking at a line of torches I see in the McMaster-Carr on-line catalog 
(www.mcmaster.com) and at the Sievert line of torches sold by Sulphur 
Springs.  These all have adapters made for use with the propane tanks we all 
have on our barbecue grilles.  The torch I'm considering is a high output 
unit, producing about 73,000 BTUs per hour, 10 times the output of a typical 
hardware store hand held torch that uses a throw-away bottle.  The flame 
temperature would be the same, around 3400 degrees F.

Is there someone on this list who might be a few steps further on down this 
road than I am who has some experience with these high output torches and 
could provide some notes about what brand or model of torch they use and 
why?

As an aside, McMaster-Carr sells copper sheet, square and rectangular copper 
stock, round copper stock, and copper rivets suitable for small scale boiler 
making, as well as a variety of bronze rounds suitable for making bushings 
for boiler fittings.  Their product line includes a variety of silver solder 
and brazing rod materials, all suitable for boiler making.

A recent mailgram from Keith Taylor mentions the writings of LBSC.  I have 
several books by LBSC.  When he describes brazing a boiler LBSC says to bed 
the work in "coke or breeze" when working on it with the torch.  I'm a 
confirmed Yankee who doesn't know what might be the equivalent American term 
for this stuff.  Does anyone out there know what LBSC means by "coke or 
breeze"?

Casey Sterbenz

-Original Message-
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

LBSC was a British author of many authoritative articles on live steam and 
the designer of an amazingly large number of successful miniature
locomotives from "O" gauge through 4-3/4" and 5" gauge.


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

PISTON VALVE REVERSING (was R C Ruby?)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Vance,

Am I correct, that in a piston-valve reversing system the valve must be all 
the way one way or the other or centered?  My understanding is that the 
Johnson bar cannot be left somewhere in the middle between neutral and full 
forward or reverse as could be done with, say, a Stephenson link valve gear 
where the Johnson bar can be set to allow for early steam cutoff.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: R C Ruby?
>Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 12:06:13 -0600
>
>This is really important on a piston-valve reversing system.  If you're
>going to remove the Johnson bar, you must be sure that the travel of
>the piston is exactly the same as with the bar.
>


Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
 

BUTANE FUEL PRICES ( was Where we've been ...)

[Casey Sterbenz]

Welcome back, Dave!  Good to see you weather the storm.  My condolences to 
both of you on your losses and I applaud your courage for hanging in there 
and getting back on line.

So here is something that might be of interest . . .

T'other day I stopped in at a sporting goods/military surplus store in 
Arlington, VA (Washington, DC suburb) and bought a 16 ounce can of Peak 
(Coleman) brand 70% butane - 30% propane fuel for $4.25.  The can fits the 
Sulphur Springs adapter for filling locomotive fuel tanks.  I'm not sure 
that the item was properly price marked because next to it on the same shelf 
was an 8 ounce can of the same stuff for $3.75.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "David M. Cole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 21:45:29 -0700
>
>And could someone please post something about trains to help me get my mind
>off all this b**t?
>
>Best o' luck.
>---
>Dave Cole, General Manager

__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Intro & Ruby Advice Needed

[Casey Sterbenz]

A dab of soapy water does the same thing and is a bit less nasty.  Probably 
a good idea to check all gas system joints this way.   I do it each time I 
put a new propane tank on my barbecue grill.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Intro & Ruby Advice Needed
>Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 18:00:22 -0500
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>   Another method that works well is to spit on the filler valve. Rather
>disgusting, but it's quick, it works, it won't remove your eyebrows, and 
>it's
>free!
>
>Later,
>Trent


__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: OIL BURNER

[Casey Sterbenz]

Vance,

White gas IS gasoline, purified and unleaded.  That's why I'm not too keen 
on using it for small scale live steam stuff, although I use it all the time 
in my camping stove and lantern.

The fuel supply tube on my Coleman gear passes over the burner and through 
the flame so the gasoline is vaporized before it reaches the burner proper.  
Back in my Boy Scout days (forty+ years ago) I remember hearing about 
Coleman lanterns being banned from certain scout camps because of accidents, 
but the stories were always third hand.  Properly handled, Coleman products 
are very safe.

And that last phrase is the key - "properly handled."  I'm of a mind to 
build a burner for myself and have no engineering background in this area.  
I'm working by "rule of thumb" and I don't want to do something that will 
blow up in my face.  So, gasoline is out, kerosene is in, as far as I am 
concerned.

I'm looking around in some of my model engineering books and magazine 
reprints for info about kerosene burners.  I knew I had that info somethwer, 
jut can't remember where.  Senior moment, I'll wager.

Casey Sterbenz

>From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: OIL BURNER
>Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 12:06:42 -0700
>
> > ... the fumes blew up in my face.  It has the same or very close to the
> > same volatility as gasoline.
> >  Be careful with Coleman fuel!!!
>
>Well, that answers that question.  So, who's looking into the
>kerosone option?  And what kind of boiler are you going to build to
>work from it?
>
>regards,
>   -vance-
>
>Vance Bass
>Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
>Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass

__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: OIL BURNER

[Casey Sterbenz]

Bob,

I'd be interested in seeing copies of those articles.  Also, someone 
mentioned the use of a Coleman (white) gas burner.  I'd also be interested 
in seeing how that was adapted for small scale live steam use.

I have a copy of the Little Engines manual on building both a 4-6-4 and a 
4-8-4 in 1/4" scale that includes drawings for a white gas burner.  I've not 
yet tried that idea out as I'd rather try kerosene first 'cause I have a 
notion its a safer fuel to use than gasoline.

Casey Sterbenz

>I
>was in contact with his son in Washington State and he gave me some 
>reprints
>of some magazine articles on the construction of the burners.  Basically, 
>it
>is a drip type system that relies on the bottom plate of the unit to ignite
>the kerosene and burn thru holes in the top.  To light such a burner you 
>play
>a torch to the underside until it is hot enough to burn on it's own.  In 
>the
>five seconds I devoted right now for looking for them, I couldn't find 
>them.
>I know they are here and if anybody is interested I can make them a copy.
>
>Bob Starr
>

__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com