Re: Diamondhead dates?
"David M. Cole" wrote: > > I don't seem to have the dates for the National Steamup at Diamondhead next > month. Assume it's the 14-16 or 21-23. > > Thanks. > > --- > Dave Cole <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Daly City, Calif. USA > List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > It's Jan 14-16 but most of the regulars arrive on the 12th or 13th. -- Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Vest Pocket Climax
Don Baker wrote: > > Greetings all, > Any comments on the VP Climax, as described in SitG recently?. Have there > been a number built, and how do they perform? Up to expectations? Hi Don. I personally know of three plus mine. Mine is still being constructed and I have a chassis that runs on air. I am now doing the plate work and mounting the boiler. I hope to have it to run at Diamondhead 2000. I have been keeping a diary of my efforts and you can check that out at http://www.fls.org.jm/users/fls/climax/vpc.html I have completed the cylinders but have not posted that info to the page. I hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions. Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Timing on a Ruby
Paul: You will find a technical bulletin for the valve setting at http://www.accucraft.com/pg-manu-rubytech1.htm It's pretty self explanatory. I believe that your loss of power is directly related to the position of the reversing piston. If, after following the technical bulletin, it doesn't clear up, then maybe you will have to retime the engine by moving the eccentrics. Don't do that until you make sure the reversing block is correctly set. Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Have any ruby owners had to or just wanted to change the timing on > their Ruby . > My ruby seems to be losing its power and has more power has more power > in reverse this has been true since I purchased it . Does any one know > the proper position of the scribed lines on the piston valves to get the > most power out of their ruby . Also what is the proper position of the > forward reverse valve in relation forward reverse lever in the cab of > the loco > > Paul >
Re: Bantam
Kathy & Phil Creer wrote: > Thank you for your detailed answer. Next question, my boiler filler also > holds the safety valve...how does one go about substituting the goodall for > that? Maybe someone else who is more familiar with the Bantam can advise Phil on goodall valve placement in that engine. I've only seen photos of the engine. There should be several in service by members of this list. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Goodall Valve
"Carl H. Malone, O.D." wrote: > Water is pumped into the boiler with a spray bottle like this one. I > think this may belong to Clark but I'm not sure. :-) > http://web2.airmail.net/cmalone/bottle.jpg That bottle sure looks familiar. Like it might just fit my Steamlines Shay. Like it might be sitting on the bar at Diamondhead and way too close to your sticky hands. :) Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Bantam
Kathy & Phil Creer wrote: > > Forgive the ignorance of a novice, but what is a Goodall valve? so I'd love to > know of a way to top the boiler whilst under pressure. > Best Regards, > Phil Creer "Z.R. Struzik" wrote: > Being another novice I will second this question. ... people put it (goodall valve) >on the steam dome in case of Frank S. What does it look like?? Kathy, Phil and Zbigniew At the risk of preaching to the choir, A goodall valve is the generic name given to brass plug that is usually screwed into the water fill hole on top of the boiler. This plug replaces the water filler plug. It has a short extention going into the boiler which is covered with a piece of rubber tubing. The plug and extention is drilled through. When you put a hand held water bottle on the top and pump, the water forces it's way past the rubber tubing and into the boiler. The rubber tubing acts as a check valve to keep the pressurized water and steam inside the boiler. It is proably the easiest way to add a refill feature to an already built boiler. Now if you are willing to drill the boiler and silver solder in a bushing (as Richard calls surgery), then you can plumb the boiler with a ball check valve and pump water from say a tender or trackside hand pump. You could even add an eccentric to one of the axles and install a axle pump which is used to add water while moving. All of these methods require a fitting on the boiler with a check valve. You must add that fitting if not already there. When Richard and Keith are talking about a fitting called a banjo, they are talking about a fitting which is screwed to the top of the boiler in an existing bushing. A banjo fitting looks like a model airplane wheel collar where the water pipe is silver soldered in what was the set screw hole. This is then screwed on to the boiler with a hollow bolt and fiber washers to keep it from leaking. Now you can pump water into the boiler through the banjo fitting provided it has a check valve attached. It's called a banjo because when you look at one from the top it looks like a banjo without the strings. The collar is the sounding board and the pipe going into the side is the neck. Now that I have belabored the above, you can see why a goodall valve is so simple. You just remove the filler plug and screw in the goodall valve. Hope this helps. By the way, my Frank S uses a goodall valve sold by Sulphur Springs Steam Models. I have other engines that uses this method. Works slick. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: New member
Don Baker wrote: > Have started a Vest Pocket Climax I too am building a VPC and have been keeping a diary of my progress. Look at: http://www.fls.org.jm/users/fls/climax/vpc.html I have not worked on the engine for a while as I have been engaged with other projects. I have completed the cylinders and the chassis runs on air. It's ready for the plate work and setting on the boiler. I hope to complete it in time for the January 2000 small scale gathering in Diamondhead MS. > - anybody know Mel Ridley's e-mail address? Try Mel Ridley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Welcome to the list Don. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: DUH?
Richard Finlayson wrote: > Clark rants on about all the cool locos at the > steamup and doesn't even mention the beauty! I can't get any respect... :-) Hey, I'm mostly into gears and such. The engine is a beauty and it ran very nice. It looks good with the coaches. Now if there were a few in country. t. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Track Cleaning Car?
Richard Finlayson wrote: > If a solid, padded roller of some sort soaked in meths was sent on a loop > it might be useful for removing oil from tracks...? Clark Lord sent on a > loop with a meths soaked rag would also work... :-) As the day wore on during Kevin's steamup Saturday, the outside main track got very slippery. Two of us had passenger trains and the engine drivers did not slip during the morning runs but by 3 p.m. it was awful. As I attempted to get a good run out my School w/5 Bullied passenger coaches, the drivers were slipping all the way around. So I began the tedious process of wiping the oil off the rail with a meths soaked red rag. (The genesis of Richard's comment above.) You could notice the engine was not slipping on the cleaned section. I couldn't reach all sections from the outside perimeter so the engine slipped drivers some of the time. I think an automated method of wiping tracks down during steamups would be welcome. I have used chalk rubbed on the rails to improve traction. I have also seen the cleaning powder Bon Ami used as miniature sand. Both work, sort of. Removing the grime and oil would be best however. Take note Richard. The same problem exists at the NSS as well as Diamondhead. Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: How was Kevin's?
Richard Finlayson wrote: > > Jon? Clark? Do you have info on the modified Project? Not I. Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Catatonk 24 ton shay (was Ruby Modifications (was How was Kevin's?))
Jon: Ron Brown is selling these engines under the trade name Catatonk Loco Works. If memory serves, the production run is 25 or 30 locomotives and all are subscribed. The first 10 are in country and they are being built by Mike Chaney in England. The original asking price was $2,500 delivered. I suggest you contact Ron either via this list or directly. Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines "Jonathan E. Bloom" wrote: > > Clark, > >> The hit for me was seeing the new Chaney 24 ton shay running. > > A beautiful piece of machinery! How do I get in line, and how much will it set > me back? > Jon
Ruby Modifications (was Re: How was Kevin's?)
aney 24 ton shay running. It was s/n 8. It ran super. I'm have a deposit down for one. It will be two years next January in coming, but well worth the wait. Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Steamlines osimotor shay
> Gary Lane complained:- > > After running for 8 hours under steam over a period > of three weeks the osimotor started leaking so much .. Mike Chaney wrote: > The received wisdom is that by the time an Osmotor is run in - it's worn > out. You could be right Mike. I don't run my Steamlines shay very often. My engine slobbers a lot when starting but tightens up as it warms. That's why I set the tension on the side plates while in steam. As a side note, Werner Jeggli of Switzerland rebuilt his osmotor in his LOK 2001 with teflon inserts on the bearing surfaces of the cylinders. Quite a bit of work I would say. Runs nice however. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Steamlines osimotor shay
Gary wrote: > Any ideas on how to help the pistons not leak so much? Hi Gary. I also have a Steamlines Shay with the optional smoke generator. The Osmotor is held together by four nuts on either side of the cylinders. They press on two parallel plates that form the outside bearings for the oscillating cylinders. Those must be tight enough to not leak steam but loose enough for the engine to run. They must also be equally tightened front to rear so that binding does not occur. I found that I had to tighten or loosen those nuts to get the best performance. I did this while under steam and it gets really hot but you can do it. That's my suggestion on how to cure the leak and restore the performance. You might have to fiddle a few times to get it correct. I'm talking 1/8 turn is the difference between too much and not enough. Clark ===== Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Ruby run time
Jerry Barnes wrote: > > Ruby owners, >Ron Brown said you only get about a 10 minute run out of them. Is that > true? If so, I see new fuel tanks and water pumps in their future. Be a > hassle refilling it all the time. Like to hear your experiences with it. > Clark? I am now on run number 32. I have been using my stop watch for several runs. It takes right at 5 minutes to get steam up when cold and 4 minutes when running time after time. My max. burner time so far is 11 - 12 minutes. My maximum actual rolling down the track time is 8 minutes with no load. It pulls three metal wheeled cars with ease. When firing with a minimum flame I can open the throttle full and the engine will move slowly around the track. There is 30 ml of water remaining in the boiler. The safety valve never lifts. When firing with a high flame I must barely open the throttle to get slow operation. The safety valve will be weeping/popping most of the time and there will be no water left in the boiler. The fact that I can 1) "over fire" the engine, 2)have the safety blowing all the time, 3)still get a 10 minute run and 4)still have a few drops of water in the boiler when done indicates a large safety margin is built in. In all cases the best time has been 12 minutes of firing time. My engine howls loudly at all but the lowest gas settings. So I run the engine at the lowest setting. My engine had a gas leak at the filler valve and I sealed it using Rectorseal (found in plumbing supply houses). I was wondering why so short a run. My first 4 runs were around 8 minutes total burner time. I'm glad to read other reports on the Ruby saying that longer times have been recorded. Right now I think a larger gas tank is needed along with a "Goodall" filler on the steam dome to add water while under pressure. No doubt someone will make these items available. This weekend several fellows from California and Utah will be steaming up here at the house. Kevin O'Connor will be here with his modified Ruby. I will fire the second engine I have to see how it preforms. More later as I know it. Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Tips page
spen wrote: > I ain't no expert on lub oil for our locos but experience is a > wonderful teacher. For the past 10 yrs or more I have been using "Zoom > Spout" with great success for all the loco parts (other than the cyls and > valves). In fact I have been using it for my Grandfather clock too! It is > put out by Norvey Inc. in 4oz plastic bottles with a very useful > "zoom" spout which can be extended to app. 6''. It is listed as > "certified" for bushings, bearings, shafts and linkages etc. etc. > Armite makes the same thing and calls it turbine oil for the same > applications, I use either, depending what is on the shelf of my local > Ace Hardware. It really keeps the parts well lubed also meaning that I > don't have to oill every time I run--tho' I always check. Me too! I learned of this oil from John Wieland 9 years ago. I get mine at the Granger store. The zoom feature is really handy to reach remote areas. Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: Propane/Butane (was Re: Tips page)
"David M. Cole" wrote: > I further understand that the Ruby's instructions specifically recommend > *not* using the propane/butane mixture (apparently because the gas tank > can't take the pressure). Indeed they do recommend against the butane/propane mix. I have two Ruby's and am doing the Steam in the Garden review of this engine. I only have the GAZ brand camping butane/propane gas. The engine runs just fine on this and is really a super entry level engine. It is begging to be kit bashed. My friend Kevin O'Connor has a pre production Ruby and he uses GAZ also. Kevin has now boiled over 5 gallons of water in his Ruby. It just is a great runner. I agree with Vance on the fact that the gas tank can take much more pressure than we will ever apply. I am hosting a three day steamup here in Las Vegas this weekend and I expect we will run the dickens out of Miss Ruby. Clark ========= Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: The great void - Model Boiler Books
VR Bass wrote: > > But I'm the only small-scale live steamer in the state of New Mexico. Boy can I identify with that thought. I am the only small-scale live steamer in Southern Nevada and Charlie Lix has Northern Nevada covered. It is difficult to get hands on information unless you are rubbing elbows with the "guys". I welcome any items that illuminate how to do things in our hobby. Even if I already know, it's always nice to have conformation of a procedure. And who know, I might even learn a thing or two. I am sensing that this list is beginning to come into it's own. We are beginning to have productive discussions on a wide variety of subjects. I follow several lists as do others on our list. Up until now the livesteamers list was my main source for steam related information. But this list is really starting to cook. I don't feel like I have to explain stuff on Gauge one models when asking questions to this list as I do for the livesteamers list. You guys already understand. Carl's statements on the RCS R/C system is an example. We already know what his is talking about. Just think what the 7 1/2 gauge fellows would have thought about a R/C question for steam engines. "What is this guy talking about?" "Who ever heard of controlling a steam engine by R/C?" "That's what those airplane and car guys do!" But for us it is a needed solution for easy running of engines on ground level tracks. Keep up the good work. As NUMBER 5 said, "INPUT, I need input!" Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
Re: And the House Burned to the Ground
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" wrote: > > Hi everyone, > > I am curious about what happens when a R-T-R steam loco gets caught in a > tunnel or something (leaks fuel), catches fire, and burns the house down. Well it's time for me to weigh in on this. I was asked by another modeler here in Las Vegas, "What about liability if your steam engine does harm to someone attending the monthly run day?" He was concerned that if something happened he would be sued. Well I posed that question to my insurance company (USAA) and this is the response. They have never had a claim involving a model live steam engine. All sizes were considered. Therefore I would be covered for liability by my homeowners policy. (Up to my limits.) It covers me while running trains at home or away from home as it covers my property while in my possession. It covers my guests while watching me run trains. (In the same way you are covered if you slip and fall on my icy sidewalk.) Additionally, when I'm visiting someone, their homeowner's also covers me while a guest in their backyard playing trains. Again up to the limits of his policy. So that's two different coverage's we already have. Now I understand that manufacturers should have product liability. That's just good business as Mike Chaney pointed out. So there is even more coverage available. I do agree with those who abhor the thought of suits and that you must be responsible for your own actions when running trains. Clark = Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines
