Re: Where is steamvault.com?
Oops. Give me 24 (or so) hours and I'll have that archive site back up... -Richard On Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:48:30 -0800 (PST), Shekhar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi Folks, Who maintains the domain "steamvault.com", links on which appear on many live steam websites (steamup.com, etc)? I was trying to get some articles on radiant poker burners from there, but it appears the domain registration has expired. Does anyone know if the SitG articles are archived somewhere else? They'd be archived in back issues of the magazine. Available from Steam in the Garden directly or on ebay sometimes. Bruce Gathman The links provided below are ways to donate to a cause or causes for free. www.bigcats.care2.com www.breastcancer.care2.com www.children.care2.com www.oceans.care2.com www.pets.care2.com www.primates.care2.com www.rainforest.care2.com www.theanimalrescuesite.com www.thebreastcancersite.com www.thechildhealthsite.com www.thehungersite.com www.therainforestsite.com -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Saturday's steamup at Jim McDavid's
I either had a finger pinched under the gas valve, or 40 lbs of 3 year old blocking my esophagus. Not sure which. Thanks go to Jim for wielding his awesome power and parting the rainy skies long enough for a steamup! Thanks for the pix Mike... -Richard All, I have posted a few pictures from Jim's steamup. You will find them at <http://www.panyo.com/jim>http://www.panyo.com/jim Best regards, Mike -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Roundhouse questions
Kevin, I have a set of the counterweighted cranks... but they are on the loco waiting for the non-counterweighted ones received from RH. I could probably yank them this weekend. You can buy me lunch at D'head to cover the postage. For the list... as long as I'm there I'll do the whole job... I have to replace the rear axle/bushes/conrod/(cranks by choice)...how hard is it to get the axle bushes out of the frames? It's been a long time since I've worked on RH axles, etc... wondering if they are pressed in tightly, or can they be removed by hand? -Richard The grass is always greener... or... The other cranks look better... Okay, so I'm overhauling one of my locos in preparation for heading down to DH, and have a few questions... First, has anyone converted the poker burner in a RH loco to a radiant burner? Easy? Difficult? Any specifics I should know about? Second, does anyone have a source for the counterweighted flycranks? I don't need the whole assembly (wheels, axles, cranks), just the counterweighted cranks themselves. If it's grotesquely expensive, I'll just live with the uncounterweighted ones I have now, but I figured I'd throw it out there and see what happens. That's about it for now. Later, K -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: NOT Silversoldering Stainless Steel
I just soldered a new bushing into a fuel tank for a venting filler valve. I tossed all my old flux when I had to pack up my tools a few years ago. I remembered that Borax could be used for flux. Mixed some up. Cleaned all parts, fluxed, set bits of solder around... torched it up. I think the flux ATE the brass bushing once it got hot. That little bushing just started disintegrating. I grab the tank with pliers and knocked the bushing out so I could regroup and start over. I used a much much lower concentration of borax to water on the 2nd try and it worked OK. Still ate just a tiny edge off the bushing. So, did the borax actually eat the brass? Or is something else going on there? Is there a published way to make flux out of borax? Should I just go get some "proper" flux? The nice thing about big steamups (National Summer Steamups, D'head) is that I usually get my tail end in gear and do some loco maintenance and improvements! Regards, -Richard Thanks, Harry. I bow to your superior wisdom and knowledge, and, most of all, to your willingness to share it. Regards, Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 03:43 PM 7/10/03 -0700, you wrote: Harry, would it be more correct to say that you were trying to break the surface tension of the molten solder blob in order to make it run along the joint? Theoretically solders won't flow, or rather wet, because the flux has broken down or was inadequate to begin with or a contaminate, usually an oxide of some sort, has formed on the target surfaces. The idea of scratching is to attempt to remove or at least displace some of that oxide in order to encourage the solder to stick. The failure of scratching in silver soldering is due to the high temps involved and the quick formation of hard oxides or burnt contaminates. Another hopeless non-starter is attempting to add a fluid flux to a joint at brazing temp. Regards, Harry -- Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://shopnow.netscape.com/ -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: C11
Hey Geoff, There was a 12 month period when I was hanging out in Japan with the Yokohama Live Steam crowd that there wasn't a place you could stand that you didn't cast a shadow on at least one C11. They were very popular because of the local appeal for that design, for the price, and for the model's running characteristics. I built two from kits. First was stock, great loco. The only things I did to the second loco was to put very stiff springs on the drivers and to pack the wicks very tightly. I thought the loco bounced around way too much and the springs tightened that up, and like many Asters (Jumbo, Pannier to name two) you *may* get better performance/controllability/etc. by reducing flame by throtting the wicks a bit more than the construction notes indicate. My only complaint with the design is that you hardly ever see a C11 with the cab roof in place because you can't really operate the engine without removing it. Some owners extended the regulator out through the rear of the cab with a small operating lever attached. I love 'dem steamers from Japan... the C57 is just the coolest locomotive in terms of its lines, and the C11 was an amazing amount of locomotive packed into a tank design... the C11 model reflects that as well. -Richard Does anyone out there have, or has owned, an Aster C11. If so what comments do you have on the performance of this loco and any suggested "tweaks" to improve performance. Of course, as you all know, I know everything, but this is for a friend who doesn't understand this despite my lengthy ramblings. I wait with bated steam, a hammer and a screwdriver! Geoff. -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Jumbo backhead
Is there anyone that has a Jumbo that could take a photo of the backhead for me? I'd like to see the control layout. Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: gt&e has first run
Congrats on the progress on the way Dave. Let the maintenance begin. My lovely little loop, after 3" of rain in 36 hours (the first in seven months), looks like a darn chia pet. Sigh. On separate note: Can anyone provide a photo of the backhead controls/setup on a stock Jumbo? If not too much trouble I'd appreciate it. Thanks, -Richard Ah, the thrill of it all!! Congrats Dave, Geoff. all hands: tonight, under a moonlit sky (with supplemental jury-rigged lighting), the track crew of the grand teton & everglades steam excursion co. laid down the last few feet of rail. to celebrate, the operations crew fired up the frank s. and ran it all the way around the line, a first. this is also the first time since the slide of 2000 that the frank s. has run on its own rails. photos and further commentary will be forthcoming, but i just wanted everyone to know: we're back in business! \dmc -- ^^^ Dave Cole Gen'l Sup't: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >^^^ -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
NYC Hudson
I'm helping Dan Liebowitz with his new/old Hudson. A few questions: - The axle pump seems to be on the low volume side. Is that anybody else's experience? It's not keeping up... wonder if it's the pump or if I need to investigate the whole pump system. - The burner whistles. (No, I'm not going to build a radiant burner for it.) Any suggestions for taming the note? Thanks! -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Midwest Small Scale Steamup Coverage
The Midwest Small Scale Steamup is underway. Visit Steam in the Garden Online for daily on-site coverage contributed by Pat Darby. http://www.steamup.com Enjoy! Richard Finlayson Steam in the Garden Online
Re: Cylinder drain
A few degrees off course from your original question, but I have a Pearse Mogul that Carl Malone modified to include simulated drain cocks. An R/C controlled valve in the cab provides for "opening" the drain cocks, resulting a very nice steam effect at the cylinders. Go Carl. One thing about operating drain cocks in gauge one is that visually all they do is regurgitate an oily, sticky mess instead of steam. No nice visual, at least on the 3-4 different designs I've seen in Japan and elsewhere. Big ports would result in a nice effect, but are difficult to achieve. The Aster Pannier has very practical draincock, very useful, big ports lots of steam but with inside cylinders and no cab lever no visual can be achieved. (It also burns the heck out of all the other fingers that are down there while using the index finger to actuate the valve.) Over, -Richard >What is available, or can be made, in the way of cylinder drain cocks for G1 >engines? Open to all ideas. Thanks > >Norman >NJ > > -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Aster Schools parts assistance
Does anybody have an Aster Schools manual close at hand that could help me identify a bolt specification? If you could contact me off list I'd appreciate it... Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: New guy with a question
Harry, anybody, do you know the origin of the name "box poc"? Thanks, -Richard >At 08:55 PM 4/2/02 -0700, you wrote: >>1. What is the proper name for the type of drive wheels found on the > >locomotive that I have a picture of at com/5100.jpg? > > Box poc. > >Regards, >Harry > -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Travel info: Aster dealers in Tokyo/Japan
> >Aster does not have good hobby shop distribution in Japan. You won't >find it stocked, they mistreated the channel a few years ago and >memories live long, etc. Tenshodo in Ginza carried some Aster, all >of it the current models, very expensive. > >Exchange rate plays heavily into the conversation but locomotives, >like cameras, etc. are usually more expensive there and at best the >same price. So, for shopping, good deals, etc., not worth the trip. > >However! For live steam Japan can't be beat. Too many great >activities and things to do. For gauge one live steam you should try >to hit the Yokohama Live Steam Club. They operate every 1st and 3rd >Sunday (this needs to be confirmed). Great venue, great crowd. >http://www.steamup.com/sitgonline/forum/articles/yokohama0398/yokohama0398.html > >Also, the Nihon Teien Tetsudo is a wonder unto itself. If you can >coordinate your schedule, and have some travel time (about 2 hrs >south of Tokyo) it would be well worth the trip. >http://www.steamup.com/sitgonline/forum/articles/teientetsudo/nihonteientetsudo.html > >There are several operating live steam excursion lines, some near >Kyoto. Here's a link that might help. >http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~mt5h-nitu/jrs/steam/steam.htm > >Also, don't forget the Transporation Musuem near Tokyo station... >lots of great steam history preserved there. > >Enjoy! > >-Richard > > >>Dear Friends, >>I am going to Tokyo and Kyoto for a short trip and >>I wondered if Japan is a good place for Aster deals. >>I suppose I should email Aster if they have a > >representative in Tokyo but I wondered if any of you > >have some knowledge of good model RR's shops in Tokyo > >or Kyoto (carrying Aster for example)... > >Any hints on 1:1 narrow gauge steam attractions around >>the place would also be most appreciated! >>Best RR'ing wishes, >>Zbigniew >>Amsterdam > >-- >== >Richard Finlayson >[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: WD-40 ... was Re: Other boiler and engines
Yes, Goeff, I'm back from the archives and all that seems to have been agreed is that lubrication of the engine driver is most important of all. Abstaining as I do, I wonder if rootbeer floats with diet coke chasers will in the end block up my flues and render my moving parts useless sooner than I would hope. Later! -Richard >Richard, > >Interesting comments on WD40 in the archives- right! Personally, I haven't >had problems with WD40, it's just that it hasn't done anything of note for >me, --except for weed killing around the track. Of course, if I don't run >my coal fired more often, I may get weeds in the tubes!--unless the rats >eat 'em! > >Archivally, > >Geoff. > > >>>I shall so visit the web site and so will Richard--I hope!! >> >> >>Growing weary, Geoff? See you in the archives! >> >>Ta! >> >>-Richard >> > >>>Geoff. > >>>go to the archive web site at >>>> >>>>http://www.mail-archive.com/sslivesteam%40colegroup.com/ >>>> >>>>and put in >>>> >>>>wd-40 >>>> >>>>and you'll get a sense of what was discussed. >>>> >>>>\dmc > > > > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: WD-40 ... was Re: Other boiler and engines
> >I shall so visit the web site and so will Richard--I hope!! Growing weary, Geoff? See you in the archives! Ta! -Richard > >Geoff. > > > >go to the archive web site at >> >> http://www.mail-archive.com/sslivesteam%40colegroup.com/ >> >>and put in >> >>wd-40 >> >>and you'll get a sense of what was discussed. >> >>\dmc >> >>At 11:56 AM -0800 2/4/02, Geoff Spenceley wrote: >>>Richard et al, >>> >>>I have noted that some subject matters comes up again in later months and >>>WD40 was quite an issue, some for, some very much against. Anyway, one has >>>to be very careful how oil/dirt is removed from moving parts. I once >>>destroyed a crankshaft on a lawn mower engine by cleaning with a cleaning >>>solvent. The aluminum bearing on the connecting rod was OK, but the >>>crankshaft had about 30thou wear__quite egg shaped. The reason--some >>>chemical action I was told by an experienced auto mechanic. My Maisie >>>needs a good cleaning--I shall most probably use steam from another >>>boiler. Maybe even kerosene which contains some oil.. >>> >>>So, I'd like to hear some more input on WD40. Seems that when I use it to >>>prevent rust, the things rust even more, so now I use a silicon spray for >>>rust. >>> >>>Geoff. >>> >>> >>> >>>>>Richard et al, >>>>> >>>>>There are questions about the use of WD40, used around moving parts >>>>>etc--any comments on this? >>>> >>>>Nope, didn't hear anything on that topic. What's the issue? >>>>-- >>>>== >>>>Richard Finlayson >>>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> >>> >>> >> >> >>-- >>^^^ >>Dave Cole >>Gen'l Sup't: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. >>Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers >><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Editor: TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the >>Bay Area Garden Railway Society <http://www.bagrs.org/> >><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Webconductor: Pacific Coast Live Steamers <http://p-c-l-s.com/> >><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>^^^ > > > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Other boiler related topic
(My comments on polishing were as part of my experiment, not intended to be construed as part of the goal of the post-run flue cleaning. Just in case that was misunderstood...) -Richard >Harry wrote: > >> Watching large scalers again, they never want to get flues bright but >>rather the object is to take out the loose guano that accumulates during a >>run so as to get back down to a layer of matte black hardened soot which >>has become the "base" layer. My feeling would be that would be fine for us >>too, except on a smaller scale. >> > >That's what I have always understood., seems to me the same would apply to >any scale. All that is needed are clean tubes, not polished ones.- > >Geoff. > > > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Other boiler related topic
> > > Richard et al, > >There are questions about the use of WD40, used around moving parts >etc--any comments on this? Nope, didn't hear anything on that topic. What's the issue? -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Other boiler related topic
So, to put you on the spot, Harry... what do you think in terms of brushes in copper flues? I have a boiler in my scrap pile here... many many firings, not much cleaning. It was one of my experiments way back when. Too many flues, bad draft, firebox too shallow, blah, blah,blah. I just took to it with a small wire brush of medium stiffness. It took that old boiler down to shiny copper in a few strokes, with brush marks visible. How could that not be taking copper off? I took to the boiler with a tooth brush (vinyl bristles, maybe?) and it took awhile to get a polish... it was shiny/dull, no hard edge to the cleaned area and no individual brush marks. Now I realize the goal of cleaning my coal fired flues is not to shine them up, but this rather course experiment leaves me leery of a metal brush in those flues. List, am I obsessing here, or what? :-) Geoff, send me a proper tea bag (none of that orange peel tulip petal hibiscus flower nonsense I presume) and I'll just get on with cleaning my beastie. Later! -Richard >At 07:57 PM 2/3/02 -0800, you wrote: >>The hypothesis is that cleaning contributes to work hardening the copper. > >Richard, > The copper would have to be stretched or otherwise displaced (worked) >to do that and a brush with enough stiffness to do that really would damage >flues. > >Regards, >Harry > -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Other boiler related topic
I received a couple of off-list responses and I'll try to summarize a synopsis of what I think a reasonable approach to coal fired boiler cleaning might be. I'm not recommending best practices since I don't think I have enough experience or evidence to base anything on. - Start the cleaning with a good vacuuming from both ends if possible. - A vinyl bottle brush through the flues is next. A wire brush is arguably safe as well. I'll try to find a vinyl brush. The hypothesis is that cleaning contributes to work hardening the copper. -(Cleaning with patches of cotton cloth, while OK, seems to be deemed a considerable hassle with the paramount frustration being achieved when a cloth ball wedges tightly in the flue.) - Follow that up with another vacuuming. - Any sort of solvent in the boiler is to be avoided on the advice of experienced live steamers. The hoped-for benefit of removing coal tar, etc, is outweighed by the hypothesis that dried solvents or baked on solvents (or the remnants of burned solvent) will create an insulating barrier on the flues. - Cleaning the motion and moving parts is fundamental to longevity. A good wash down with WD40, whose benefit of high focused pressure of that little red tube may actually exceed the lubricating and water displacing features, followed by a regular lubrication is recommended. - A caution on sulfuric acid is in order. A key component of coal ash is sulfur. Sulfur and water will result in sulphuric acid, an aggresive corrosive acid. This is not a huge concern for us in gauge one, but an uncleaned boiler exposed to high humidity or some other source for moisture could result in trouble. I think this is pretty much the course of action I intend to follow. As soon as I find that vinyl brush. Critique welcomed. Later! -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Other boiler related topic
Tony, Your technique is making the most sense to me so far... the metal gun brushes seem too abrasive, even the nylon ones I found are very stiff. Too stiff me thinks for copper. I like the idea of pulling a WD40 soaked cotton cloth down each flue. Seem the WD40 will loosen up any tar, etc. If I do this after vacuuming then I also reduce the odds of just pushing/pulling a big abrasive pile of ash up and down the flue. Does somebody have contact with Yves? It was mentioned to me at D'head this year that Yves has said that he wore out his C62. I wonder what wore out? And why? Was it related to any coal firing issues? > Question - What caused the destruction of your earlier coal >fired engine?. i.e. What should we not do?. Enquiring minds want to >know!!!. The engine was a vertical cylinder arrangement with rotary valve and connecting beam. Dual cylinder single acting. The top of each cylinder was open to the atmosphere. The boiler was a coal fired single flue arrangement, very efficient. The cylinders collected the ash (duh!) and eventually just scored the cylinder walls up so badly that no o-ring could seal them up. So my experience has zero to do with the standard coal fired situation we're talking about here. I was just amazed at how rapidly the coal ash destroyed those cylinder walls. This experience is, I think, very relevant to all the motion and undercarriage on our coal fired beasties. I used to use a complete medium sized can of WD40 on that John Shawe Sandy River #24 when cleaning... probably overkill but even at that point on the learning curve it was clear that the ash and grunge was an enemy to the longevity of the working bits. By the way, I have a straight shot to the flues on my C62 from the smokebox... I remember that on the #24 I could get to half of them from the smokebox, and the other half by creatively guiding the brush through the firedoor and guiding with a finger through the firebox. Later! -Richard > > Note to Geoff:- Did you say you was using 30 year old water >in your engine with no problems, or >fresh water for 30 years?. Only the drivers lubricant being 30 years old?. > Regards, > Tony D. > > > >>-- >>====== >>Richard Finlayson >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Other boiler related topic
... on cleaning flues in coal fired loco... I think I read on this list that someone recommended against bottle brushes for cleaning flues due to abrasive action of brush and coal grit. I know first hand that the coal ash/grit is massively abrasive... ruined a steam engine I once built. I have been pondering this... wonder if a cotton cloth on the end of a rod soaked in ? might be a good way to clean. What is the non-ash residue of burning coal? Would WD40 or kerosene remove it? Also, I've taken a shop vac to the smokebox on my C62... did a great job of sucking all that gunk and nonsense out of there. I had a small tool... but then thought it might snag the lagging. So I just pressed the hose up against the opening of the smokebox door, closed the firebox door, held a thumb on the stack... and sucked it clean. Any ideas on the flue cleaning? Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Diamondhead Videos
I'd like to post more video clips of Diamondhead '02. If anybody would like to contribute video tapes I can do the digitizing. I can handle VHS, 8 and Hi8, and MiniDV. Ping me off list if you have video and need my address. Thanks, -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Only marginally on-topic: Apologies in advance
I'm trying to find some used PRR heavyweights for my K4. Do any of you know of any good swap lists on the web? (Ebay I'm already tuned in to.) Also, what are the best online wholesalers? I'm also looking for Preiser figures for my Lion, and some luggage, etc. to go with it. Where are sparkies buying, selling, and trading these days? I think we should start using the term "muggle" in this context. :-) Responding off-list will keep this "plastic" thread from sullying the ongoing general live steam discussion. Thanks, -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
2 Aster safety valves
I lost two Aster safety valves on Sunday. One is tarnished, one is new. Jerry knows I'm looking for them. Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: more DH pics
>Carol Jobusch gave me a CD with all her pics on it, and I've been looking >through them with joy. There are a few that Richard didn't include >on the SitG >site that I thought were interesting, Yes, I definitely took a sampling and even then ended up with about 160 images and 8MB of data. It's fabulous that Carol is there to document the event, and that she enjoys sharing it with all of us... Later! -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Coverage on SITG
Just a quick message... The dialup connections at Diamondhead were abysmal. Could not even get a 9600 baud link. I have several updates that will be posted sometime later today, my apologies for the gap in coverage. I'll post a message here when the site has been updated... Thanks, -Richard >More DH pics have been posted to Steam In The Garden Online. Thanks to >those who have contributed. Looks like a great time is being had by all. > >Chuck > > -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: parafin vs lamp oil
The goal is to get the charcoal to burn. In some cases less stinky and less smoky are desirable. Meths can be used instead of kerosene, although the charcoal needs to be quite wet with the stuff... and it may get a bit drippy. I resorted to this technique a few D'heads ago. Point being that anything that will ignite the charcoal can be considered, and even possibly used, after that it's all refinement. -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Driving to D'head?
Ahh. The solution presents itself. Thanks. Uhh. Never having ventured to the other side of the highway... are we talking a walk or a drive? Thanks, -Richard >Why don't you go to the ACE hardware on the other side of the highway? > >Mike Eorgoff >near Chicago > >- Original Message - >From: "Richard Finlayson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:32 PM >Subject: Driving to D'head? > > >> >> Are you driving to D'head and arriving before Thursday afternoon? >> Could you do me a favor? I need a bag of BBQ charcoal briquets >> (standard variety, no quick lighting, or wood mix required) and a >> pint, quart, or gallon of kerosene (whatever is convenient). If it's >> not too inconvenient... >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Richard >> -- >> == >> Richard Finlayson >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Driving to D'head?
Are you driving to D'head and arriving before Thursday afternoon? Could you do me a favor? I need a bag of BBQ charcoal briquets (standard variety, no quick lighting, or wood mix required) and a pint, quart, or gallon of kerosene (whatever is convenient). If it's not too inconvenient... Thanks, -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
charcoal/kerosene at D'head
What's the situation with charcoal/kerosene cocktails at D'head? I know that good Welsh coal has been provided in the past. I'm not too hot on packing kerosene soaked charcoal... was that also made available? I've carried the coal/charcoal on the plane in the past. Bad idea this go around. Advice appreciated. -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: Wick adventures
When you guys get this firebrick wick thing figured out, please mail all of your old asbestos yarn (eg. Aster standard issue, etc.) to me because I am just now entering the power part of the learning curve on being able to reliably pack, trim, and tune with that stuff. Much appreciated... :-) -Richard >At 04:49 PM 12/29/01 -0800, you wrote: >>'Twould be nice to compare performances between my plain old wicked >>(didn't mean that double meaning!) Pannier and yours at DH. >>Geoff. > >Geoff, > I'll probably do another set or whittle on these a little more to see >if I can get a more compact fire. Right now it looks too Big Blue Hair'ish >to suit me. There's probably a lot of work yet to be done to get the thing >optimized. > >Regards, >Harry -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Boiler test results
Yes, it would be interesting to know if the max pressure is in the 300 psi range, the 600 psi, or higher. I'd suspect it's pretty low, i.e. the fuel systems we use would never be able to produce the pressures used in the tests. But, it's a guess. -Richard >At 03:13 PM 12/28/01 -0800, you wrote: >>Harry, all, >>I'd be very interested to know what maximum pressure can be reached >>with our different fueling systems. > >Richard, > I can't venture an educated guess as to where it is, but there is >going to be a point beyond which our little boiler systems give up heat to >the atmosphere faster than their burner systems can add it. If I've got my >theory right that will also be approximately the point at which water >ceases to be turned to steam and ultimate pressure (as a function of water >temp) will be reached. An experiment would certainly be simple enough and >could determine that point for a given system (boiler and burner). Find >someone who is willing to re-Oring, re-washer, and re-paint their boiler >and we're off. > >Regards, >Harry -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Some boiler test results - long
Harry, all, I'm running behind here. I'd be very interested to know what maximum pressure can be reached with our different fueling systems. Given the inefficiency of our fuel systems (ref Kevin et. al.) I'd think that the max pressure, regardless of duration of applied heat, in a test setup could be observed, and I wonder what that pressure would be. -Richard >Harry, >Thanks for passing that along, great article. I have always flanged and >silver soldered my end plates and I think I will continue just for that added >safety. Besides it isn't hard to do and it looks better. >Merry Christmas to all on the board! >Bob -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
charcoal
Up until I shoved everything into storage I was using mesquite charcoal, intended for BBQ use, as charcoal for coal firing. I threw it all out when we everything went into storage. I now need more charcoal, but smashing up that mesquite was a huge mess, and was only available in huge bags, though cheap. Searching for a better way... Can aquarium charcoal be used? Convenient package, small size... Any good ideas? Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: What's the deal with JB Weld?
What sort of prep is required on the parts? For example, do the brass bits need to be bare? I presume that oil on either part would interfere... but is that the case? Specific to this K4, I'll need to remove some insulation in the smokebox, rebend the tabs for the bracket, then dab on the JB. Any sort of prep to be recommended in this case? By the way, on that loos K4 piston rod o-ring problem that several of you helped me with earlier: after getting a set of drawings it was easy to see how it was assembled and I was able to remove the o-ring cover plate without any major disassembly. The o-ring was coaxed out of the cavity and there was a glob of firm, not hard, gunk in there. I cleaned the o-ring up, hit it with a blast of WD40, then re-assembled. Firing it on the test stand showed no more leaking than the other side so I think I'm set. With two K4s side by side, both have more leaking at the piston rod gland than I would have expected, but under power and in operation the gland seems to tighten up, and they couldn't run any better. Thanks, -Richard >I just bought the slow cure version (several minutes working time and at >least 6 hour cure) at Pep Boy's auto parts store. It is available in 1 >oz size or 6 oz sizes for shops. There is a fast cure version (4 minute >working time) in 1 oz sizes as well. > >Clark > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >> >> In a message dated 12/20/01 7:10:06 AM Central Standard Time, >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >> >> << Somehow I don't expect to find >> >JB Weld on the pegboard at my local Lowe's or Home Depot >> >> >> Available at both. >> >> Jim -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
What's the deal with JB Weld?
More K4 stuff. The marker light bracket is flopping around. The assembly manual says to use "adhesive for metals" to attach the thing. I know that JB Weld was used on the bracket before and it probably would have lasted were it not for UPS. So what's the deal with JB Weld? What is it? Should I use it in this situation? Thanks, -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
D'HEAD TRAVEL RELATED: hitch a ride?
Will anybody be in the vicinity of New Orleans airport Thursday at midnight? Thursday early morning? I run into this problem every year... arriving at midnight is problematic. Last Coastliner is at 11:30PM, first one is at 8AM. Rental car is a waste because the car just sits for three days. Maybe I'll just take a bike lock and chain my luggage (locomotives!) to my ankle and catch a few hours of sleep under a piece of cardboard... Later! -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Which fastener series for new design?
Uh... sorry to push a button Harry. Of course "require" and "CAD" don't go together. Rephrased: "And finally, I'd really like to build a Project loco some day but it's all laid out in inches. So, WHAT I DO on a project like that IS REDO THE LAYOUT IN CAD because I find it easy, powerful, and useful." And to the last point, with a little self discipline one can drive on the left side of the road with right hand drive. It all works. Even in Japan where most roads are 1.8 times the width of the average car yet two cars somehow pass each other! :-) And, one quick little engine project I built way back when was done by using a calculator to convert inches to metric and, penciling it onto the drawing, rounding to the nearest tenth mm. I was concerned that the summation of the individual errors would result in problems... but it didn't. So, even working fast and loose with on-the-fly conversions is conceivable. Harry's right, one can bounce back and forth. But I think my observations stand: 1. Good looking, model engineering metric fasteners are not as easily available. 2. Metric stock costs more here in the US. 3. The rich history of model engineering designs are mostly non-metric. (Can you guys believe that I, all-thumbs machinist, am actually trying to have a machining oriented tet-a-tet with Harry, who actually DOES know what the hell he's talking about? Heady stuff, this holiday 'nog!) Happy Holidays! -Richard >At 11:40 AM 12/19/01 -0800, you wrote: > >And finally, I'd really like to build a Project loco some day but >>it's all laid out in inches. So, projects like that require you to > >redo the design in CAD. > > Require us? How come? There were a thousands of miniature steam >models built before the advent of Cad from nothing more than scribblings on >the back of brown envelopes. Of course it does make one wonder though how >those poor blighters EVER muddled through doesn't it. The answer: desire >and perseverance. > As for metric, this is, or should be, a non-issue. It's only a >different name to describe the same distance between two points. With a >little self discipline it's possible to flit effortlessly from one to >another. Being a slow learner it took me a few weeks, once I set my mind >to it, and this was not because I wanted to be in step with the French, but >because I decided that I would be better off if I was equally at home in >both systems. > > >Cheers, >Harry -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Which fastener series for new design?
Mike, All my equipment and tooling is metric. Sherline equipment, etc. Including the hammer and files. :-) Upside is it's easier on my brain, and no fractions in the math. And, having just kicked off the 21st century I'm doing all I can to stamp out imperialism. :-) Downsides (as of last year when all tools went into storage): Metric stock (brass bar, rounds) etc. is more expensive to source. I have a local scrap yard, and I ended up milling lots of stock down to metric dimensions to work them but I got it cheap. A tradeoff. I really like Aster type bolts, nuts, etc, and they have been hard to find. Lots of steel bits, slot head, etc. Difficult to find a good low profile hex head brass 2mm bolt without getting friends in Japan involved. In some cases I had to resort to (horrors) BA fasteners in order to avoid using some sort of slot head ugly metric thing. Or those hob-bits type 1-71 and 2-56 sorts of things. (There again, why should you need a darn decoder ring in order to figure out exactly how big a 2-56 part is? Sigh. Don't get me started on 8BA, etc.) And finally, I'd really like to build a Project loco some day but it's all laid out in inches. So, projects like that require you to redo the design in CAD. This too is not so bad because a builder usually makes his own mods anyway and thus would be whipping up some drawings anyway. I am definitely a hobby machinist... built three locos and hope to do more... but can't defend much of my practices other than that they work for me, and I'm certainly not what you'd consider experienced. That all stated because I know that there's somebody out there who may have solved these problems... actually, I'm hoping there's somebody out there who's solved these problems. Later! -Richard >If a new engine was being designed, what series of fasteners would have the >greatest acceptance? Don't really like using the English types, BA etc, and >the American types seem to be less than unified and available, so am >thinking about using metric types. > >Hope this has as many replies as asking about what fuel to use. > >Mike Eorgoff >near Chicago > > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Beginner Gauge 1
I've never seen pricing for the Regner live steam 0-4-0s and such. Are they in the sub $1000 category? And, to echo what many have said before, a used Frank S. can sometimes be had in the sub $1000 and also makes for a great intro to live steam. -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: More K4 fueling
>Richard and others of the Aster Fraternity, > > Why is the fuel take-off on this locomotive at mid point inside >the tank? I'm really curious and am sure that there's a good reason. Good point, and one I pondered when looking at the drawings. Is there possibly a siphon tube inside the tank that takes fluid off near the top? (Sort of like a steam siphon tube in a boiler?) Seems unlikely... but... One clue is the presence of the secondary valve near the cab. I suppose they might have intended for liquid to vaporize on it's path to that valve. I think the C&S mogul has a takeoff at the bottom, and then that secondary tank in the cab. Carl Malone has successfully built fuel systems that have take-offs below the liquid level where the liquid vaporizes on it's way from a master valve to a controlling valve nearer the burner. I'm just mumbling out loud though... I have no idea what the design goal was on the K4 fuel system. > Also, what is a "venting valve"? Is the vent on the filler valve >itself or am I missing the point (again)? A venting valve provides for the pressure inside the tank to vent to the atmosphere at the same time the liquid from the source is flowing into the tank through that same valve. The idea is that if there isn't some sort of vent for the tank that the pressure inside the tank soon reaches the same pressure as that of the source and flow stops. As someone already pointed out, it's a bit more complicated than this because of the different pressures the liquid and vapor states, but it's a working description. Which is also why cracking the fuel regulator valve ever so slightly on a non-venting system allows for the vapor to escape while liquid is hopefully being pumped in (source pressure in the can is higher than in the tank with the cracked vent.) You just listen for the change in sound as the flow of vapor becomes liquid. This works marvelously on three different non-venting locos I own... can't seem to get it right on this K4 though... Thanks! -Richard > >Later, >Trent > >Richard Finlayson wrote: > >>The liquid take-off (I finally got a set of plans) is mid-way up >>the side of the tank. So, the tank shouldn't actually be filled all >>the way up like we do normally. However, with a venting valve at >>least I could get some liquid in the tank and then use the >>technique of cracking the valve and listening for liquid. -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: plastic heavyweights
Good ideas Walt... was hoping to find a way to avoid the cost of Kadees for the full rake. Pricey little dogs, those. >Hi, >Mr. Lunkenheimer bought a string of heavyweights for the SWAMP RR. He was not >pleased with the fact that they did not have full diaphragms, or anything >looking like them between the cars. Those thin things they are equipped with >just leave too much gap between cars. The quickest thing we could come up >with, relying on the 10 foot rule, was to cut some pieces of the dark gray or >black foam that is often used to pack photographic equipment, etc. If you cut >a piece of foam that is about 50 percent thicker than the "gap" you can just >push it in place as the cars are coupled. We also removed the factory >couplers and used the resulting "U" ends to be receptacles for pins made of >bent aluminum rod. Easy to get in and out, and the inserted piece of foam >sort of hid what we were doing. >We are really not working with museum quality scale models here, so the ten >foot rule and a couple of "Buds" later, no one is the 'weiser' -- if you know >what >I mean. >Keep your steam up! >Walt -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Plastic "for sale"?
I'd like to try to find some pre-ownded Aristocraft Pennsy heavyweights. Do any of you know the URL for active large scale plastic, etc. swap shops? Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: More K4 fueling
Hi guys, Two bits of trouble: 1) The valve isn't a "standard" part as used on most of the butane systems on other locomotives 2) The liquid take-off (I finally got a set of plans) is mid-way up the side of the tank. So, the tank shouldn't actually be filled all the way up like we do normally. However, with a venting valve at least I could get some liquid in the tank and then use the technique of cracking the valve and listening for liquid. Ponder, ponder. -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
More K4 fueling
I had car trouble this weekend and couldn't make it to Jon's steamup. Bummer that. Instead I fired a few locos on the island in the kitchen. All those tips I received really helped with the K4... primary in the success being that the cab fuel valve is useless and that the master control is the tender valve. I'm still having trouble fueling that loco though. My technique of listening for liquid isn't working. Also, I get major major amounts of fuel spilling when I try to fill the tank, both with and without the fuel valve open (to release air pressure and allow the liquid in). Any tips on filling the tanks? Thanks! -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Gary Raymond email
...anybody have email coordinates for Gary Raymond? Thanks, -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: K4 firing
Walt, I think my K4 was once yours, via Dan Liebowitz and briefly Sam DiMaggio. Sam performed some tuning on it before I bought it from him. It's a great runner Walt, didn't know it also came with the defoliation feature! I'm glad I asked, because I think I've had it backwards. I've been trying to use the cab fuel control... I can see that there's danger of blowing the hoses if the cab valve is too tightly restricted while the tender valve is opened up. I'll watch for that... I'll try Walt's idea of putting a cheater bar on it so that finer settings can be had. With our climate I haven't found the need to work with warm/heated tender water but maybe I'll try that. The filler valve doesn't appear to be a venting type... I've been filling it by listening for liquid at the jet with a just-slightly cracked valve. Any tips on filling? It seemed to be venting when I first tried to fill it... but I think it was just blow back, etc. and I convinced myself it was non-venting and thus went the cracked-valve route. (A skill perfected on an old Wrightscale Porter...) Any info on fueling is also appreciated. Thanks for the help! -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4 firing
Greetings, I'm seeking pointers for firing my K4 equipped with standard burner. The tank regulator is intact, as is the regulator just upstream of the burner assembly. The burner fits loosely in the backhead, but stays in the boiler and aligned due to a bit of pressure from the flexible hoses once the tender is coupled. Is this normal? I have had several very nice runs with this locomotive, but have never really been able to balance out the burner to my satisfaction. I feel I've either got it up too high, or that it flashes out when I reduce it based on past experience with the way burners sound. Kevin, where would I be without the burner roar to help me with the fuel setting? (GRINS!). Any tips appreciated. Mike Martin gave me some tips that I... uh... forgot. I think we were regulating with the valve closest the burner which is also what I've been trying lately. Thanks! -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: sight glass!
Too much fun Walt! Dan Liebowitz, my son John Porter, and I endured a full-on rain storm for a few hours on Saturday. You have to get your steaming when you can... We were running Dan's new Lion. He built it mostly to completion and I finished up some final assembly and worked on engine timing etc. (Great little locos.) It ran great and Dan was pretty pleased I think. It was COLD! (Wimpy sort of California cold to be sure, but cold!) Windy too and the loco was slightly lethargic but still ran nicely. A set screw on the flywheel worked its way loose during the run and caused a few moments of consternation as we diagnosed the situation then walked the tracks to find the screw. It all went back together easily and we got another nice run out the loco. John Porter was on the inner loop the whole time with his #9 and ran it very professionally. I had him so bundled up that he looked that helpless little kid in "The Christmas Story" that can't lower his arms for all of the bulk of his snow suit. I was in my sailing four weather gear (dry as a bone thank you) and Dan was in full on foul weather gear of his own including a very nice waterproof safari hat that was keeping him dry. We had planned to run Dan's Daylight, and a new/old loco that I had just received but we wimped out when the tips of my fingers went numb. A fine day... hoping for fair weather at Jon Bloom's next weekend though... -Richard >Hi, >Today we finally got Mr. Lunkenheimer's three truck shay to operate as it >should. >You may recall we bought this months ago and on it's second steaming the >boiler failed. Jerry Hyde secured the new boiler and the necessary parts. >When we disassembled the old boiler to salvage the steam regulator (throttle) >we found it was corroded in place and some parts of it were broken. We then >delved deeper into the old boiler and found that there was a large >accumulation of very fine black material, much like finely ground carbon >black, in the boiler. If you put it in a class and stirred it up it looked >like India ink. >With the help of a veteran live steamer that happens to live next to I-10 in >a state with a long name, we put the boiler back together but had difficulty >getting the water glass in place. Didn't get it steamed up on that try. After >some problems getting the new steam valve properly seated, time for a test >run. On the second lap there appeared to be an explosion on the back >straightaway. The loco stopped immediately. I ran out and shut off the gas. >The waterglass had broken just above the bottom packing gland. Put in a new >glass and gently tightened the packing glands, and the thing broke right at >the packing nut. Had to order more glass from Jerry Hyde. >For the third try, I turned a brass rod so it was a snug slip fit to align >the two fittings. Had to sacrifice half of the bottom lock not to get the >fitting close enough in line to insert the glass. Another break! I >immediately inserted the guide rod and found that the top fitting was out of >alignment, it was angled out away from the boiler. Apparently it is slightly >off top dead center of the boiler and when the boiler built up pressure, the >long armed fitting was moving enough to break the glass. I decided to >slightly reorient the fitting using a long threaded rod to get it perfectly >in line. Installed the fourth, and last glass, last night. >Shortly after sunrise this morning, Lunk & I steamed the Shay up again. >Nothing happened during steamup. Safety popped and the throttle was opened, >away it went. After the first tender full of water, I added some cars and ran >at a higher pressure reading. All in all, ended the steaming day (after 6 >hours) and everything held together. At one time there were 26 full size cars >behind the shay and it was doing it's thing. Man, a 26 beer car train looks >NEAT! Well, actually it was 24 beer cars with a coal car that is a coupler >conversion car and also carries some road supplies, and a work train caboose. >After a five hour break, I fired it up again this evening for an hour or so, >and no broken glass. >Maybe, just maybe, we finally got a runner. >Mr. Lunk was exhausted by the end of the day. He made many trips from the >steaming bay to his bench in the middle of the yard where he watches the >trains. >Some days are just better than others... >Keep your steam up! >Mr. Lunkenheimer's associate -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Diamondhead Plans?
Mike, Coastliner has been very good in the past. 2 hr departures make for reasonable wait times. Always prompt. My only issue has been that the red-eye flights that I take going that way arrive too late to catch their last shuttle out (10PM by recollection, not reliable info). Much better than the off-airport el-cheapo rental car (never again) and the branded on-airport (too many $$$). My recollectionon cost was $25+ tip each way... the more people in your party the less sense it makes vs. rental car. I dread the thought of these flights though. We just had a family reunion in Newport... my sisters and their families spent the entire day (7AM flights that actually left at 4PM-ish) because of delays, cancelled flights, airport security closures, blah, blah, blah. We drove, lucky us. I can see spending a complete afternoon getting out of here, arrive 1AM if lucky, spend FRI/SAT, spend all Sunday in the airport. This is nuts. Hope to make it... -Richard >Hello all, > >How many list members are planning on attending the >Diamondhead Steamup (aka International Small Scale Steamup >and Arts Festival 2002) this January? I'm curious if anyone >has used the Coastliner airport limo service? Good/bad >experience? Pricey? Tip required? > >Thanks in advance, > >Michael Martin >[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: This here tracksite ain't big enough ...
To add a point to the merit of mounted track marshalls: Many of the conversations at these wonderful steamups are loaded with horse crap. It would be handy to have the horses around for quick comparison. Always thinking, -Richard > > Imagine LA if all the commuters rode horses or >> buggies instead of autos! > >In the late 1800s it was calculated that, if the horse carriages >kept proliferating at the current rate, then London would be 2 feet >deep in horse poop within 10 years! Then someone invented the >automobile... > > Pete -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Engine Clean uo
I kind of like that sterilized/dry feeling as meths evaporates off my hands. Although lately it's been a harsh/burning feeling as I dry to smack out dancing flames from my leaky engines... >I suppose any of these methods might prudently involve solvent resistant >gloves? >Gary in soggy Eugene, Oregon > >> Hmm. Now that you mention it, rags soaked in meths have been used at >> steamups to cut the grease on the rails. Maybe I'll use that method... > >> >Dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits and finish with a dry soft >cloth. > > -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: K4 piston backhead
Hey Ernie, Fantastically detailed info. Thanks much Ernie. Clearly not a one-evening project, I'll defer this until I have a better workplace to work on projects. -Richard >Richard- > >Each piston rod is sealed by a silicone "O"-ring, captured in a counterbore >in the cylinder backhead, covered by a 4-hole packing gland. To access the >seal, remove the 4 slotted-head screws from the gland. To remove/replace the >seal, unthread the piston rod from its crosshead. Remember to use "gentle" >Loctite 222MS when remounting the crosshead. > >BTW, the cylinder backhead and bolts are functional; a seven-hole gasket >seals them to the cylinder. The drain cock fittings are only decorative. > >Ernie Wortmann, PLS -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Engine Clean uo
Hmm. Now that you mention it, rags soaked in meths have been used at steamups to cut the grease on the rails. Maybe I'll use that method... The addition of official Track Marshall _badges_ (courtesy of Jon Bloom's craftsmanship) were good for crowd control and riot abatement at the recent '49er steamup. I think the logical extension is from bowler to brass marshal's badge to marshal on mounted steed. -Richard >Richard, > >Dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits and finish with a dry soft cloth. > >Geoff. > >What would be a way to degrease drivers that wouldn't harm the >>finish? I had my Schools out for a run at Gary's and I should have >>cleaned the drivers before the run. I stiff cleaning with a dry rag >>is probably as good as any... but any experience with this? >> >>-Richard >>-- >>== >>Richard Finlayson >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Engine Clean uo
What would be a way to degrease drivers that wouldn't harm the finish? I had my Schools out for a run at Gary's and I should have cleaned the drivers before the run. I stiff cleaning with a dry rag is probably as good as any... but any experience with this? -Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: K4 piston backhead
>Hi Richard, > Cannot help you with the K4, I am affraid. > > However regards Track spacing:- > For reference, you have used my track already, and my >minimum spacing on mainline and steamup bay is 5 1/2". Also >have 6 1/2" and 7" on some of parrellel running tracks >and curves. OK, I think 8" is what I'm going to use. Lots of room for overhanging 7/8" stuff should such ever visit... > Engines run to date have been from 1/32 scale to Accucraft C16. > The C16 had problems clearing the fence post, not the >adjacent track!. Only 2 1/2" from track center to post!. > So at 7" centres, you should be in good shape. Hopefully I'll be able to avoid post fouling loading gauges. My one design issue is that of three huge pepper berry trees that must be avoided. Good thing that leaf blowers haven't been outlawed in Saratoga yet because I'll be blowing the railroad off every time I run it. Wonder how I'll epoxy down some interesting track side detailing so that it doesn't blow away in the resulting hurricane... > > Question - LMS Coaches:- > What prototype style and design number are the coaches >you had David Leech build for you?. I am having a hard >time deciding on styles for my future consist, and looking >to recall the ones you have. Hmmm. I'll have to take a look Tony. I asked for "four coaches that would have been used together". I've subsequently asked for a fifth, but haven't heard back yet. Four looks... well... so even. And the coaches are so gorgeous. >Better still. How about you bringing them to Dan,s on >Saturday for me to air for you behind my Britannia!. Tony, I finished Dan's Lion (except for a few detail parts that went missing) and will deliver it hopefully this week so that Dan can enjoy it at his steamup. If I hook up with him I'll leave the cars there for you to use. Would love to see it in person, alas I'm headed south on Friday PM... I should be able to make it to Jon's inaugural burn-down-the-track event... another opportunity to exercise the cars. I run them behind my never-existed PLM 140... looks good to me but I'm sure it would give a continental railroader indigestion. Anybody that has read this far... on my K4 topic again... does anybody have a K4 manual and scanner close at hand? A detail of the cylinder assembly would be fabulous... I sort of already know how to get to the Aster web site... using one of my only saving workplace skills I can actually read it in the native script. Later! -Richard > Regards, > Tony D. > > >Hey listees, > >>In a blatant plug for the Aster Lion, I built another one for Dr. >>Dan Liebowitz and I continue to be impressed with that fun little >>hunk o' burnin' locomotive. Too much fun. >> >>My question however has to do with my Aster K4. I need to >>tighten/adjust/repack the piston gland. I do not have a set of >>plans. Before I have at it with the nut driver, does anyone know >>off hand how to get to the piston gland (can I get to it just by >>removing the cosmetic cylinder cover and cosmetic backhead cover?), >>if it is an O-ring or graphite thread, if all the bolts on the >>cosmetic backhead cover need to be removed, etc. >> >>Any advice or comment appreciated. The locomotive runs great and >>I'll leave it alone until I'm better situated... unless it's a >>one-nighter and in that case I could use the diversion... >> >>Also, I'm laying out my future railroad (again) in CAD. What's the >>standard for center-to-center separation for parallel tracks? 7"? >> >>Thanks, >> >>-Richard >>-- >>== >>Richard Finlayson >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Another K4 question... not live steam.
Would REA freight cars have been included in Pennsylvania K4-headed passengar trains? I found some nice photos on the web of Pennsy trains that included Pennsy fast freight cars right behind the locomotives and in front of the typical heavyweight passengar consist. I couldn't tell (and it wasn't noted) if the locomotives were K4s. Wondering if I could throw in an REA car and still have some level of authenticity. Thanks, Richard -- ====== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4 piston backhead
Hey listees, In a blatant plug for the Aster Lion, I built another one for Dr. Dan Liebowitz and I continue to be impressed with that fun little hunk o' burnin' locomotive. Too much fun. My question however has to do with my Aster K4. I need to tighten/adjust/repack the piston gland. I do not have a set of plans. Before I have at it with the nut driver, does anyone know off hand how to get to the piston gland (can I get to it just by removing the cosmetic cylinder cover and cosmetic backhead cover?), if it is an O-ring or graphite thread, if all the bolts on the cosmetic backhead cover need to be removed, etc. Any advice or comment appreciated. The locomotive runs great and I'll leave it alone until I'm better situated... unless it's a one-nighter and in that case I could use the diversion... Also, I'm laying out my future railroad (again) in CAD. What's the standard for center-to-center separation for parallel tracks? 7"? Thanks, -Richard -- ========== Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
National Summer Steamup 2001 Event Coverage
Greetings live steamers, Daily on-site event coverage will be available starting no later than Friday evening, including video clips. http://www.steamup.com Enjoy! -Richard -- == Richard Finlayson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: STEAM-UP in Missouri feasable?
> > > >>1. The Spring National Small Scale Steam up has not been accepted >as well as > >>was hoped. Did you ever attend? What is your criteria for "accepted"? I think a mid-west steamup is a good idea. I think more regional steamups are a good idea. I think that Diamondhead is one of the rarest, most satisfying hobbyist gatherings on the planet. To hold that up as the only definition of "accepted" or even worthwhile sets everyone up for one event a year. Likewise, for as perfect an event as D'head is, there are reasons that smaller regional events can better D'head in some respects. I'll defend the National Spring Steamup as a national class event. We have regularly attracted east, west, and international (Japan, UK, Canada) attendees. I hope a mid-west steamup gets going! I'd do my best to attend... -Richard P.S. The logic on travel time doesn't hold. Diamondhead Mississippi couldn't be a less convenient destination. 2 days from Florida, 2 days down the east coast, a full day of flying each way in and out of New Orleans. > >>was hoped. One of the reasons may be the California location. It >is a 2 - > >>2 + day or more drive for those of us who live here in the Midwest, >longer > >>for those on the East coast. The six or eight days of travel time >takes a > >>huge chunk of vacation time. Air travel cuts the size and number >of engines >>that can be carried. == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
OT: RE RE etc. Steamup timing WAS Re: PCLS web site up ...
> > >So lets not shoot down the idea until we have heard the whole story. I hope I'm not perceived to be in that camp. Not the case. Also, there is no "whole story" yet hence the requirement for feedback on ideas to improve the event. I personally think that Sacramento will make a better venue for the event than the bay area just on the airport/travel front, among other reasons. Also, the operation assumption is that the event moves, with Sacramento the most likely destination. I know for a fact that we do not have a suitable bay area venue available to us this coming spring. I should have make this assumption clear in my list of pros/cons. Dave brings up a good point; it was my understanding in conversations with Kevin that the venue he found is equally available/viable in May or July. That's an important point to clarify. Grover, who's whining? I miss your point. To the point; does it matter to you if the event is in May or July? Finally, you will likely agree with me that in many cases the written word does not convey the meaning as well as a real conversation with all the verbal/non-verbal cues that go with it. Let me state out loud: I will completely support of any decisions that are made relative to the steamup by PCLS and Kevin El Presidente. I am extremely interested in seeing a major event on the west coast that is sustainable for decades; I've invested time and money to try to help make such a thing happen. I have opinions and will express them but when decisions are made and it comes down to making this event successful I will be there with full support. I can't wait to attend the steamup in attendee/volunteer mode and spend more time with my friends at the event! My next step is to contact all of the 2000 NSS attendees and let them know that if they care one way or the other about dates to contact Kevin or myself so that the feedback can be considered. Later! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Mike Fix
It's nice of all of you to humor me on this Mike topic; not having one and asking all these questions is sort of like asking a bunch of questions that are easily answered by reading the manual! A question that goes hand-in-hand with that of adding extensions is... do gravity and vibration tend to move the regulator and blower valves around? Seems it would open the blower, close the regulator... this would be compounded if the extension levers were to add any sort of weight while also increasing the moment arm. I like Jim's idea... replumb the backhead to get more Aster-traditional backhead controls. I'm sure I wouldn't do that mod for a few reasons... but it sure would have been nice. Anybody tried to add the detail kit yet? (Has this too already been discussed and I missed it?) Later! -Richard >Richard, >I re arranged the pressure gauge so it can be seen from either side, with the >servo on the throttle, it would probably be OK, just might be a little tough >getting to the Johnson bar control. Even with the extension in the UP >position, the water glass still takes some head manipulation. >Walt & Lunk ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Steamup timing WAS Re: PCLS web site up ...
Good topic for feedback if the listees don't mind the clutter. I can tell you that the National Spring Steamup is FAR from a commercial venture so I hope this doesn't violate any list rules. If it does I will of course cease and desist. Many in the PCLS have been discussing the future of the National Spring Steamup. It is official that the PCLS will take over the event. Kevin O'Conner is at the helm of PCLS and bless him for doing it. There are varying inputs to the process of next year's event and maybe this audience can provide useful feedback. There's a long list of issues to be addressed, but foremost is the timing of the event. When I did the research more than four years ago, the overwhelming advice/input was to stay clear of summer schedules: family vacations, the long and growing list of model railroading events, etc. The result is that the NSS grew from about 75 attendees in the first year to 95 this last year. There was a significant drop (can't remember the exact count) when we held the event on Memorial Day weekend. The event has been on three different weekends in the May timeframe and only the Memorial Day weekend caused difficulty as measured by attendance. Two identifiable conflicts emerged but are anecdotal because I don't have exact data and these were spring weddings and spring graduations. Moving the event to a different time will of course have pros and cons. Keeping the event in May has pros and cons. It would be great to get feedback so that decisions can be made. Here's a stab at the trade-offs: May Timeframe: Pros: - 90+ attendees can attend in May. - NSS has momentum in that time slot, albeit an increase of only about 10 net new attendees per year. - May clears other railroading events like the NGRC, Queen Mary, Narrow Gauge Convention, etc. - A perceived ideal would be to have the NSS six months after Diamondhead, mid-May is five months (close enough). Cons: - Proximity to Memorial Day may make it difficult to attend for many. July Timeframe: Pros: - Summer timing may make it easier for many more people to get away and attend. - A perceived ideal would be to have the NSS six months after Diamondhead, mid-July is five months before (close enough). Cons: - Restart/rebuild required to get momentum around an event. - The long and growing list of summer railroading events. - No. Cal. climate: Both east bay and Sacramento will be hot/toohot in July. Jon, Dave, others: maybe you can provide a synopsis of what has been discussed at recent steamups? Have I missed some important/obvious points? Later! -Richard >At 10:39 AM -0700 8/28/00, Richard Finlayson wrote: > >Hadn't heard that the National Spring Steamup was being renamed the > >National Summer Steamup... > >All I know is what El Presidente tells me ... ;-) ... > >\dmc > > >^^^ >Dave Cole >General Manager: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. >Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/> >List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Editor: TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the >Bay Area Garden Railway Society <http://www.bagrs.org/> >Webconductor: Pacific Coast Live Steamers <http://p-c-l-s.com/> >^^^ > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Mike Fix
Hmmm. Doesn't sound too do-able. Suzuki-san added extension levers to his aster controls, and they arced in a plane parallel to the backhead. With the Mike controls they'd need to arc perpendicular to the backhead. Is there enough room to attach an "L" shaped extension, and would it have enough throw in terms of clearances? I didn't like Suzuki's extensions at first, I thought it cluttered up the beatiful lines of a locomotive. But I've added those types of extensions to a few more locos so I've obviously overcome that original reaction. Again, just wondering... hmmm! -Richard >Richard: > >The roof is part of the cab side etching. Your proposal would involve some >surgery to cut the top off, cleaning the edges, repainting, as well as >coming up with a new method of attaching the roof. Nothing insurmountable >but not a 10 minute fix either. A good project for the hoary days of >winter, not the balmy days of summer(imho). > >There are times while running you do need to flip that roof section up to >access controls. Extensions of valve handles and Johnson bar would be >necessary for a more fixed roof. > >Jim Curry > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: PCLS web site up ...
Good site Dave, thanks. Hadn't heard that the National Spring Steamup was being renamed the National Summer Steamup... -Richard >Pacific Coast Live Steamers: > >The web site is finally up and running. > >Point your browsers toward > ><http://www.p-c-l-s.com/> > >Two kinds of e-mail lists will be set up; an announcement list and a talk >list (like this one). > >Visit the web site often. > >\dmc > > >^^^ >Dave Cole >General Manager: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. >Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/> >List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Editor: TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the >Bay Area Garden Railway Society <http://www.bagrs.org/> >Webconductor: Pacific Coast Live Steamers <http://p-c-l-s.com/> >^^^^^^^ > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Mike Fix
Walt, Al, all, Could the Mike be operated with the cab roof fixed in place? I am not yet a member of the Mike Association referred to by Al, but planning to be one. Have wondered if the roof could be removed altogether, then joined into one unit (soldering, detailing, painting all required of course) and then reattached. Would this make it too hard to finger the controls? Just wondering... Thanks, -Richard >- I too am disappointed with the flimsy drooping cab roof. I hope that >Aster reconsiders its design of that piece and provides us Charter Members >of the ":Aster Mikado Association" with a more robust part. I've thought of >running without that piece, because it can't take a lot of handling before >that little hinge decides it can't take it anymore. But it's too hard to put >it on and take it off. The cab roof extension is a vital part of the Mikado >image. I took the lazy man's way to fix the droop though and I thought I'd >pass it along. I just bent the outside corners of the vertical hinge plate >on the extension forward a little to make two little ears, that become >little bumpers when the extension is down. You can adjust the droop by the >degree of the bend. It works fine and requires no drilling or special >treatment. What do you think? Maybe if the charter Mike members would feed >back their separate opinions about this problem, Aster might come up with >something better.. Al Original Message - >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 7:54 AM >Subject: Mike Fix > > > > Hi, > > The drooping cab roof extension has been bothering me recently. Jerry >Reshew > > said he use a couple of dabs of "GOOP" applied to one piece to act as a > > support to alleviate the droop. Sounded like a good idea, so I got some >wax > > paper, tape, and my tube of Goop. Had everything all ready to go when I >found > > out the Goop was useless. Too old and set-up in the tube. I looked at the >set > > up and thought there was another cure. > > > > It looked like a 2-56 round head screw would about fill up the space and >do > > the job. I re-drilled the holes and tapped them 2-56 and put in the >screws. > > Perfect fit! No more droop and it improves the looks of the Mike 1000%. > > Keep your steam up! > > Walt & Mr. Lunkenheimer > > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Denatured versus Ethyl Alcohol PLUS track radii
Very good, thanks for the confirmation... -Richard >Yes, I have run my new Mikado on my 7' radius layout and it runs great. Al >- Original Message ----- >From: "Richard Finlayson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 9:01 AM >Subject: Re: Denatured versus Ethyl Alcohol PLUS track radii > > > > Dan Pantages has been running the boarder with the hooch for three > > years now... we swap for butane and the NSS. Canadian hooch has been > > the official meths fuel for the NSS during that time. Sam DiMaggio > > will back me up on this: he was operating Dan Liebowitz's new > > Southern Mikado on a break in run and the locomotive was lethargic. > > Couldn't maintain steam pressure for a full lap on the track. He > > sucked the Home Depot stuff out of the tank (probably Listerine cut > > with paint remover) and replaced it with the hooch. The locomotive > > leapt into action. Great pressure and a normal consumption rate. I > > was impressed. > > > > There have been pix in SitG and on the site of my much modified (ne > > hammered) PLM 4-6-0. I've had to modify/trim the wicks on that loco > > for use with the hooch because it was overpowering the previous wick > > settings and density. Home Depot Listerine was used previously with > > good result, but with the hooch and a tuning that locomotive sings. > > I tried Listerine with the new wick settings and the loco has the > > same lethargic response as described above with Dan's loco. > > > > That's a very unscientific stream of consciousness but that's the > > story and I'm sticking to it. > > > > New topic if you don't mind: as therapy for the absolute > > mayhem/madness that is my life as we remodel our house I have started > > to unofficially lay out my new railroad. (There's an excavator > > bigger than my house sitting in the proposed spot right now. Cool > > hardware, wish they'd let me drive.) I want the new track to > > accommodate some Aster locos but it will be built as a 1:20.3 narrow > > gauge railroad. Doing the Aster math on their recommendation for 2m > > radii for the Aster locos I have that comes out to 6' 7". Does anyone > > have any experience actually running on a 2m or 6'7" track with a K4 > > or Mikado for instance? I will be space constrained due to my lack > > of negotiation skills... keeping it down to 2m would be nice but I > > don't want to build the logical minimum but have an > > impractical/useless track for the bigger locos. If 2m doesn't really > > work I'll just build a narrow gauge railroad to 5' radii and drop in > > unannounced at my friend's homes to use their bigger tracks. :-) > > > > Later! > > > > -Richard > > > > > > >At 5:18 AM -0700 8/24/00, Peter Trounce wrote: > > > >I believe it is used in camp stoves. Sold in gallon plastic jugs for >about > > > >$5. > > > > > >Finlayson calls it "Canadian hooch." > > > > > >;-) > > > > > >\dmc > > > > > > >*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* >+*+ > > > David M. Cole >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Editor & Publisher: The Cole Papers; NEWSINC.V: (650) >557-9595 > > > Consultant: The Cole Group <http://colegroup.com/> F: (650) >557-9696 > > > On the road again ... > > >*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* > > >+*+*+*+*+E > > > > > > > > > > == > > Richard Finlayson > > > > Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online" > > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: track radii
>Richard, > >Ref your house remodelling and track radii--you wrote: > > "I will be space constrained due to my lack >of negotiation skills." > >Negotiation skills??--With whom?--don't tell me!! Just do it without >negotiation--where are your priorities?? Or just run it around the >house--like a rail moat--it'll work--mine does! Also, you must have radii >to accomodate Kevin's Big Boy. Admittedly, I don't think my 11' radii >would--but I could always run 45mm track down the middle of the 3-1/2" >track (oops-sorry Dave!). > >Geoff. > > Yep. I can't get the House Ways & Means Committee to grant me the land 10 miles on either side of my right away. Sigh. It's all for the better though as I tend to take things to the logical extreme anyway. I will however get Fort Richard out of the deal... a very nicely sized room in the basement perfect for machine tools, lots of train paraphanalia, pine wood derby projects, an old TV and stacks of train videos, a chunk of old movie theater seats, lots of sailboat posters, and possibly even one of those mini-bar type refrigerators. I'll be a cave man yet! I think I'll be able to fit a very nice railroad into the space provided... a good chunk will be under a pepper berry tree so I'll have to epoxy everything down so I can blast it with a leaf blower in that area. I don't think it will accomodate the Big Boys though! I'm leveling the lot too... a 4 3/4 point to point would be pretty slick... but possibly too much to consider for the foreseeable future. Later! -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Denatured versus Ethyl Alcohol PLUS track radii
Dan Pantages has been running the boarder with the hooch for three years now... we swap for butane and the NSS. Canadian hooch has been the official meths fuel for the NSS during that time. Sam DiMaggio will back me up on this: he was operating Dan Liebowitz's new Southern Mikado on a break in run and the locomotive was lethargic. Couldn't maintain steam pressure for a full lap on the track. He sucked the Home Depot stuff out of the tank (probably Listerine cut with paint remover) and replaced it with the hooch. The locomotive leapt into action. Great pressure and a normal consumption rate. I was impressed. There have been pix in SitG and on the site of my much modified (ne hammered) PLM 4-6-0. I've had to modify/trim the wicks on that loco for use with the hooch because it was overpowering the previous wick settings and density. Home Depot Listerine was used previously with good result, but with the hooch and a tuning that locomotive sings. I tried Listerine with the new wick settings and the loco has the same lethargic response as described above with Dan's loco. That's a very unscientific stream of consciousness but that's the story and I'm sticking to it. New topic if you don't mind: as therapy for the absolute mayhem/madness that is my life as we remodel our house I have started to unofficially lay out my new railroad. (There's an excavator bigger than my house sitting in the proposed spot right now. Cool hardware, wish they'd let me drive.) I want the new track to accommodate some Aster locos but it will be built as a 1:20.3 narrow gauge railroad. Doing the Aster math on their recommendation for 2m radii for the Aster locos I have that comes out to 6' 7". Does anyone have any experience actually running on a 2m or 6'7" track with a K4 or Mikado for instance? I will be space constrained due to my lack of negotiation skills... keeping it down to 2m would be nice but I don't want to build the logical minimum but have an impractical/useless track for the bigger locos. If 2m doesn't really work I'll just build a narrow gauge railroad to 5' radii and drop in unannounced at my friend's homes to use their bigger tracks. :-) Later! -Richard >At 5:18 AM -0700 8/24/00, Peter Trounce wrote: > >I believe it is used in camp stoves. Sold in gallon plastic jugs for about > >$5. > >Finlayson calls it "Canadian hooch." > >;-) > >\dmc > >*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+ > David M. Cole[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Editor & Publisher: The Cole Papers; NEWSINC.V: (650) 557-9595 > Consultant: The Cole Group <http://colegroup.com/> F: (650) 557-9696 > On the road again ... >*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* >+*+*+*+*+E > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Aster Mike springing
>Jeanne Baer wrote: > > Incidentally, if anyone wants one of these 1/8" springs that I used to > > modify the suspension of the Mikado, let me know and I'll send it to you. > >I too have an unbuilt kit so I would like a spring for my engine. > >Clark Lord >4890 Arizona Ave >Las Vegas NV 89104-5735 > >Thanks Clark How about the Schools, Clark? Mine is in storage, can't recall from memory how the axles and the firebox interact. -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Mike Report
>Hi, >For Aristocraft heavyweight cars, I removed all the couplers and used the >then available holes to insert a pin. Black foam insulation was cut to >simulate bellows. Works great on 10' radius curves. Front end of RPO has an >Aster compatible kadee. >There are a number of 'hermaphrodite' cars in my collection - Aristo knuckle >& hook/loop, LGB knuckle/h&loop. USA knuckle, H&Loop, etc. Most of my freight >cars still have the couplers that were on the car when purchased. Makes for a >real "mixed freight' consist! >Keep your steam up! >Walt & Mr. Lunk Walt, could you describe in a bit more detail how you pinned the remaining shanks together? Did you fix the pin to one shank, then slip fit it into the other, Tenmille style? How quick/easy is it to set up and take down? Interested... Thanks! -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Father's Day @ Roaring Camp
>At 2:23 PM -0700 6/16/00, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >How many of the BAGRS Live Steamers are coming to Roaring Camp this weekend? > >Business prevents me from attending (rats). I know that Harlan Barr and >Gary Whalen will be there with a variety of steamers. > >Best of luck to you all. > > >--- >Dave Cole, General Manager >Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. >(formerly the Westline & Mussel Rock Railroad) <http://45mm.com/> >Pacifica, Calif. USA >List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Hi Jeff, I'll be there Sunday afternoon to observe and enjoy. It will be nice to catch up with you. -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Bulk Butane Info Please
Greetings, I need to place a bulk order for butane for the National Spring Steamup. I recall that someone posted a mail-order source for this some time ago but I can't find the reference in the archives. If you have contact info that will help me out I'd appreciate it. Dan Pantages is supplying the high quality Canadian hooch this year again. Thanks! -Richard ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: gas tank design
>In a message dated 00-02-22 13:44:20 EST, you write: > ><< Copper is a pig to work with. Drill at the slowest speed you can get > to minimize the drill bits' tendency to dig in to the metal instead of > cutting it. The cleaner your holes, the better your silver solder joints > will be. >> > You might try grinding a zero or negative rake on the drill for drilling >copper, depending on the alloy this usually works better than a standard >drill. Love those uni-bits. This has been covered in the past, I can't remember if that's a generic name or a trade name. They are a single flute, stepped drill bit. Available at any hardware store. Absolutely required for any sort of work with sheet or thin metal such as the fittings Vance is recommending. Because of the stepped structure, they can often be used to create the perfect chamfer to increase the quality of the solder joint as Vance mentions above. (Doesn't always work, geometry of the assembly might get in the way of this side benefit.) They are expensive, in the $20 range, one must amortize them over more than just a few holes. Brings to mind the two cent marketing magic books that claim that Black & Decker doesn't sell drills, they sell holes. I have yet to find a variable speed hole at Ace Hardware however. And pre-manufactured metric holes are hard to sell in the US. :-) -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Best first live steamer: Opinions solicited
Also consider: Argyle Bantam Frank S. (three for sale at D'head last week, they are around) IP Engineering Jane RH Jack/Billy type kit (too much fun) BAGRS project loco (funky, kit) Just a few ideas... a tough call. I'm hot on the Bantam. It's one of the most enjoyable engines I've operated. Also hot on the Frank S... that's a ton of value for $1000 or so. Jane is a very strong performer, outline probably not right for your requirements and also tough to R/C, requires conversion for butane. An RH kit is too much fun and an awesome way to dive in. Sammie, though I didn't have a chance to run, is probably the most bullet proof loco, plus parts are available. Ruby I know nothing about but there are 300 people on this board that can help out there. There's also the Wrightscale Porter, again used, but findable. Going for 1K it provides a 1:20 scale (scale!) locomotive, but requires mods to the butane tank that require silver soldering. (Assistance offered if you need it.) There are other factors too... water filler check valves are easy screw-in retrofits for Ruby, Sammie, Frank S, Jane. Effort required to add such item to other locos. Another factor is outline. Purely subjective, some of these locomotives don't appeal to my eye. Is Mona smiling or smirking? A few ruminations, I'm interested in what other's have to say on this interesting topic. Later! -Richard >I just joined the list because I'm about to finally buy my first live >steamer. Lets see now: > >Requirements: Low cost, Butane fired, easy to use, forgiving to novice, >easy / low maintenance (all things are relative), Good instructions, R/C >upgradable, currently on the market, US prototype / look. > >Ruby-Pluses: Excellent cost, Easy to use, Complete instructions. >Ruby-Minuses: 20 minute run time, some defects in fuel regulator, some >adjustments to the valve gear necessary. > >Sammie-Pluses: Easy to use, Complete instructions, Reliable, 40 minute run >time. >Sammie-Minuses: More expensive. > >What else can you gentlefolk tell me about these? Are my requirements >sound? Pluses and Minuses I missed, other locomotives I should consider? > >Thanks in advance, >Mitch > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Swamp Rats Revisited
Too cool Carl. Will you have this at D'head? I shipped out some very appropriate swamp rat rolling stock. If you are going off the Glover and Godchaux (sp?) locomotives your swamp stack height is looking fine... Later! -Richard >Well, > >After a little time in the shop and a bit of cutting and soldering...the >elusive Onion stack has been added to the Swamp Rat! Thanks to Kevin >Strong for the door knob to cabbage stack conversion idea. As an added >plus, my wife still hasnt noticed that the shop bathroom door doesnt >have a doorknoblife is good!...hehe >Photos at: http://web2.airmail.net/cmalone/temp/rat2.htm > >Carl > > >Carl Malone >Algerita Botanical Railway ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: New roster
Dave, My previous portrait was more indicative of how I feel most of the time! That current photo of "Live Steamer in Repose" is so calming, so postoral... Thanks for your efforts to bring this crowd together... -Richard >Gang: > >I've built a new roster (http://dmcole.com/sslivesteam/users/); we sit at >about 90 members right now. > > >--- >Dave Cole <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Daly City, Calif. USA >List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: We count 77 ...
... and that was a _good_ day...! -Richard >Steamers: > >The list has grown to 77 names. I'll get a new run of the roster >(http://dmcole.com/sslivesteam/users/) out in the next day or so and I'll >get the authorized Richard Finlayson picture posted at that time. Until >then, you'll find the unauthorized picture available on the page. It is >Charley Lix's fault. > >Also, I haven't been keeping an exact count, but I'd say that we have far >fewer than 77 mini-biographies. Keep those cards and letters coming. > > >--- >Dave Cole <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Daly City, Calif. USA >List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers ><mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Users list
>In a message dated 12/15/99 11:20:07 PM Central Standard Time, >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > ><< Anybody up for attaching photos? >> > >I think it is a great idea. We could start at Diamondhead. Then, I will >followup at my steamups and take "mug" shots of those who are interested. >Can we then just attach them to an email and forward it to you, Richard? > >Jim Sure! I can make a table of name, city, photo in a database then have it spew HTML that I can repost occasionally. My original idea however was to focus on our chat group for this list as opposed to the community at large. This is not to exclude, just to make it manageable. I'd be happy to manage this for Dave if he'd like, or to provide pix from my attendee list to get his list started. Either way, at your service on this one. A D'head specific list, an NSS specific list, and a sslivesteam specific list would be easier to manage because the owner is clear. I have been toying with this idea for Live Steam Chat on my site, but haven't gotten around to it. Later! -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Users list
>In a message dated 12/15/99 11:20:07 PM Central Standard Time, >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > ><< I have a photo attendee list of National Spring > Steamup 1999 going out to all attendees. >> > > >It's coming, right Richard! 8-)) > >Good morning! > >Jim Child labor laws have been violated for two nights in a row as my crew helps me label and stamp them! Unique/interesting alignment of stamps and labels will prove comical for those on the list! Regards! -Richard ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Users list
> > ><< http://dmcole.com/sslivesteam/users.html >> > Anybody up for attaching photos? It would sure be nice to have faces bolted to names. I have a photo attendee list of National Spring Steamup 1999 going out to all attendees. It would be nice, in my opinion, to do the same with our group here. Of course I'm volunteering David's time here... Regards! -Richard ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Frank the Tank
Zbigniew, On the Franks S. thread, have you seen Jim Hadden's rebuilds? At the risk of covering what may be well known ground, Jim created a short run of beautiful 2-6-2 tank engines that he nicknamed "Frank the Tank". Have a look (not a great photo) at: http://www.steamup.com/temp/tank.jpg Regards! -Richard ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Frank S (was Axle pumps and such)
The stretch limo version of the Frank! Pretty cool. Thanks for the link! Regards, -Richard >Richard, >By the way, there is a great page of information about another >Heeresfeldbahn Borsig loco 0-10-0. It looks a lot like Frank, so I >thought you might enjoy it. > >http://www.snafu.de/~zipkat/aquarius/aquarius.html > >(notice that is 750mm which also run on 600mm in 1942/43) > >Zbigniew. ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Wilesco Spreewald...anyone run one yet?
I am suprised that in the last two years these haven't started showing up at steamups. I tend to get to a few steamups a year and have yet to see one. I've kept a lookout because I want to check out the auto butane regulator that is mentioned in their literature. Regards, -Richard >I am wondering if anyone has tried the Wilesco Spreewald yet. Since the >list has >grown I have hope. I also wonder if this Wilesco model has the window in >the backhead >like their stationary steam plants sport. > >Gary Lane ~ Eugene, OR > >> > ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Axle pumps and such (was Goodall Valve)
Darn. I hate it when that happens. The Frank S. isn't along. Aster's V&T Reno is a beautiful engine full of character. The V&T was standard gauge (wasn't it?) so 1:32 would be a nice scale for the engine, but Aster's early marketing materials (in Japanese, I don't about the English data sheets) talk about a narrow gauge engine and list the locomotive as 1:24 scale. That would all be fine and good except that a ruler applied to the loco and compared to drawings brings up all the issues that you identified Zbigniew. Too wide here, too narrow there, too short there. So, I guess that some locomotives are meant to be enjoyed for the machines that they are regardless of prototype. Thanks for the info! Frank is still on my short list of locos for the live steamer wanting to spend in the $1K range. Regards, -Richard >> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:29:11 -0800 >> From: Richard Finlayson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >[...] >> >> The Frank S. is an awesome engine that takes second to none IMO. In >> addition to the fine engineering and running characteristics, it's >> a scale >> model (for meter gauge on 45mm). And for the prices that show up on Swap >> Shop they have to be one of the best values (intermittently) available. >[...] > >Richard, I am more than pleased to hear you have such a high estime of >what is my first live steamer. I like it too and I think it performs >quite well. Unfortunately I have to disilusion you as to its `scale'. >It is close to 1:22.5 but I think LGB provided Aster with their own >drawings in which they usually reshape the model as to boost its >`cuteness'. > >This is done by making the model taller than it should be so vertical >scale works to some +/- 1:20. Also the width is often affected. >To date I have been unable to get precise drawings of the Frank prototype >but from the ones I found in Slezak book on Austria NG RR's this >cuteness theory seems to be verified. > >As to scale/gauge relationship which you mentioned, this is actually a >misunderstanding. The metre gauge although present in some parts of Europe >is by far not the only narrow gauge! Frank's prototype probably never >actually ran on the metre gauge. Most if not all ran on 760mm and >perhaps on some other neighbouring gauges ranging from 600 to 900. But >a metre gauge seems unlikely to me although I would be most interested >in being proven wrong. > >Actually the whole issue of scale/gauge correctness is not quite well >applicable to European engines. There are examples of locomotives >which ran on several different gauges, either they were produced that >way or regauged when moved from one line to another. > >Happy steaming! >Zbigniew >Amsterdam > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: More on monocock
>> rat is going to get a proper brass cab, but the aircraft plywood I have in >> place will make for great patterns > >I was thinking brass cab for my Ruby, but the prototypes would >certainly have had wooden cabs, so I'm going to stick with wood. >Think hard about junking the one you have finished, just because >you have a new tool! The wood was a compromise. The later Argent locos mostly had steel cabs. I also need to solder some reverser equipment to the cab wall... so momentum is in the direction of chocking this up to experience... Later! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Axle pumps and such (was Goodall Valve)
Lee Barrett converted an Argyle SPC 3 into a Southern Pacific locomotive of some sort. It's a beautiful engine, apologies that I can't remember the specifics. He fitted a commercially available pump and an obviously custom cam arrangment to allow for an axle pump. The pump has a massive stroke/diameter and when the by-pass is shut down tight the locomotive bucks! It's pretty cool to see, but Lee obviously doesn't operate it that way. Check out Jerry Hyde's Aster web site (http://www.steamup.com/aster) and compare the pump bore/stroke stats. These are very small pumps... but it's clear that it doesn't take much. The Frank S. is an awesome engine that takes second to none IMO. In addition to the fine engineering and running characteristics, it's a scale model (for meter gauge on 45mm). And for the prices that show up on Swap Shop they have to be one of the best values (intermittently) available. The Beck Anna and Helene (and the Mallet they produced) all had these port water glasses. Mamod uses the same arrangment and doesn't even use glass. I agree with Vance, they don't suffer from the ails of the standard 6mm water glass. They make backhead design a bit more creative though... I like the idea of hiding it behind a mock firebox door. Regards! -Richard >> I always wondered whether [axle pumps] wouldn't cause too >> much drag and jerky running?? > >I do, too, but many small-scale steamers have them. It's sort of a >distinguishing feature between simple and sophisticated >locomotives in our scales. (And one of the several ways you can >tell that the G1MRA Project engine is NOT a beginner's project!) > >> But then I guess Frank is really just a toy compared to full >> grown engines which most of you run. > >I wouldn't say that. It's an Aster, after all. I've only run a Frank once, >but I found it to be very well-built and a good runner. The many >others I've seen bear this out. Yours may need some adjustment, >though, because it should be running happily without much >"morrelen". (I love that word!) > >By the way, while we're on the topic of Frank S, I thought of that >engine when we were discussing water glasses. The Frank takes >an approach I've seen on Wilesco stationary engines, but not on >any other locomotive model. It has a large (ca. 2.5cm) porthole on >the backhead. You can look right into the boiler through it. It never >fogs up, and never gets bubbles or other locks. I wonder why it's >not used more often? You could hide it behind a clamshell firedoor, >for example.. > >regards, > -vance- > >Vance Bass >Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA >Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Filler hatch?
Yes, it's looking like the forward bushing is not a standard item. Easy to add as long as a monocock bushing is being added... but then I think the cast saddle tank will need to be drilled. That being a ton of work, a silicone tube check valve could be added to the banjo turret with relative ease using the same techniques that Norm Saley applied in creating similar check valves for the Maxwell Hemmens Porters. A monocock could also be fitted to this tower of banjo fittings, order would not matter. The interesting calculation is the length of the Banjo bolt. The rest is lathe work. That was sure easy to write, but the truth is that the paragraph just to the north of this one would take the majority of the time I hope to put in at the shop before Diamondhead! Just conducting my own reality check... :-) Regards, -Richard >Richard, the first 25 Bantams don't have the forward bushing (Diana's Bantam >is S/N 25, Ernie Noa's is S/N 6) and have a turned filler hatch. Either >Gordon has recently started adding the extra bushing, or you have a "one of >a kind". Phil, you have the the latest Bantam. Does it have the forward >bushing and a casting for the filler hatch? > >Tom E. > >-Original Message- >From: Gary Broeder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 11:57 AM >Subject: Filler hatch? > > >>Richard, >> >>Filler hatch does not come off on my Bantam. I must have the later version >>when the cost reduction program >>went into effect! >> >>GaryB >> >> > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Air testing is not the same as steam
> >As you should know, I am a fiddler and fixer, not a "scratch builder". My >mechanical experience lies with air tools and compressors. > > Altho' I mentioned that testing a chassis on air is not the same as steam >(different qualities as you both mentioned) I must admit that of the 9 or >10 Asters and O.S engines I have assembled, the air test has proved very >satisfactory for the final steam test. I use a lot of "bubbles" in >searching for leaks and won't complete the loco assembly until the engine >runs on about 5psi or less. With these small engines, I believe that if a >lot of "running in" is required something is wrong- expect excessive wear >somewhere that may come back to haunt you. Most importantly it must be >discovered where the binding is, hopefully never in the cylinders--and a >crosshead bind can cock the pistons with resultant scoring of cyl and >piston. Oh, by the way, forget testing the Merlins on air, the teflon (or >whatever) pistons need heat to expand and seal against the cylinder walls. >Sorry for the hot air!! > 100% agreement Geoff. Well stated. The hydraulic effects of water vs. the compressibility of air is really the difference I was alluding to. These can both be used to advantage in designing and tuning. A chassis that isn't smooth under zero compressive load will never run well under load. And to add an anecdote that will make it impossible for me to ever sell my GWR Pannier... I bought a RTR Pannier from my good friend Suzuki-san in Yokohama. He had built the unit himself and is a master in our hobby. This Pannier was very stiff though. Really stiff. Too stiff. Annoyingly stiff. I couldn't get it to behave at all and finally undertook this with Suzuki-san. He was apologetic that he hadn't run the engine in for me and we headed back to a shop area to run it in. He attached an air hose to a vacant safety valve bushing, cranked the limiter up to 60 psi and then opened the loco regulator up full bore. The poor little loco looked and sounded like it was about to fly apart. He ran it in each direction, on completely dry air, for 30 minutes or more. When he was done the locomotive was totally smooth, ran great... and runs great to this day! To Geoff's note I think this technique will somehow catch up to this little loco and me someday... but who am I to question Suzuki-san? (I don't think I'll be applying this technique in the future however!) Regards! -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Air testing is not the same as steam
Geoff, Gary, all, It's probably not just me... but doesn't it seem like almost ANYTHING will run on air!?!? (Hence my involuntary shudder at those Swap Shop postings for Aster engines that include a phrase about "never operated, perfect performance on air".) Practically speaking I think that running on air is easier because of compressibilty (unlike our wet steam that gets even wetter just a few microseconds after leaving the boiler) and because high pressure air supplies are easy to come by (bicycle pumps, air brush pumps, shop pumps, air brush canisters). You can generate 80+ with any of those. You mentioned STO, when I was doing that I kept thinking "PTO" from my experience with power take off facilities on the tractors (and even a Jeep) that I operated (oft mangled) on what is now my Mother's ranch. Didn't know that there actually was such a thing as an STO... yet again proving that a good idea is good for several lives and several technologies. The only obvious limitation of this technique is that balanced systems (boiler, burner, fuel, water feed) lead to good locomotives. It is likely that a mismatch of steam generation capability and engine (cylinder/valve consumption) requirements will occur and the value of the chassis/engine design will still have to be proven with a spec boiler and other systems. But, as Goeff said, you can't beat steam for finding those pesky leaks and for giving a heavy, wet, sloshy note for audibly checking the valve timing (or lack thereof is more like it). Regards! -Richard >You got it right about air testing not being the same as steam. Too tight >of fittings >and steam firing does not move anything, despite air working great. I love >your idea >of using a stationary plant with a STO (Steam Take Off valve, to borrow >from farm >machinery vocab) to operate a chasis in development. > >Geoff Spenceley wrote: > >> Richard wrote: >> >> It's also a handy steam take off for steam testing. I installed a monocock >> valve on a Frank S. way back, and then later used it as the steam plant to >> steam test the chassis on my American 4-4-0 way back when. >> >> That's a great idea for altho' running the engine and chasis on air for >> valve setting checks etc. is OK-- the use of steam in the final test is >> the ideal way to go. Then the rest of the loco can be assembled with >> confidence. Why didn't I think of it, especially since I have an electric >> powered stationary engine that would be ideal for indoor testing. No fumes, >> no external fire, no destroyed hobby room. >> >> Geoff. >> >> > == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: More on monocock
>> (Even Mssr. Goodall's valve is just a clack valve, all due respects >> to Mr. Clack!) > >Watch it there, buddy! The c"lack valve" was invented by >Beauregard Check, and it _should_ be called a "check valve". Indeed! Mr. B. Check should shown the proper respect Vance! > >> what I did with my weekend. What did you all do with yours? > >Worked on the Ruby. I got the boiler bands and boiler jacket >installed, the cab floor installed and the cab is printed up full size >from AutoCad, then cut out and taped up into a paper prototype to >check clearances, appearance, etc. I hope to get a start on the cab >this afternoon, in between trying to get my wife's and my son's cars >to run (two out of three down!), doing the grocery shopping, etc. Been there! I like the paper prototype approach. Fastest way to get an idea of visual "heft" or whatever is being sought (balanced lines, camouflage!). After picking up that resistance solder unit I think my Aster based swamp rat is going to get a proper brass cab, but the aircraft plywood I have in place will make for great patterns and was easier to mock up (looking back now of course) than it would have been in brass. You mentioned in an earlier email that you are adding firebox detail. It will change the loco. On the 18 Ton Porter project I'm doing that firebox detailing is what makes the loco. It has three layers (loco frame, cab supports, firebox) and adds a huge amount of realism, and on the 18 Tonner (don't know about the Ruby) was very simple to add to the cosmetic package. Looking forward to seeing it. > >Which reminds me. The sermon for today was on Mary and >Martha. Summary: it was indeed wonderful for Jesus to invite the >women to tend to their souls along with the men, but somebody still >had to finish doing the dishes when he left. Tich Nat Hanh talks >about doing the dishes for the sake of doing the dishes -- do what >needs to be done, and don't let living this life slip by while you're >focused on the next. Or, as Rabbi Hillel said, "God won't ask you >why you weren't Moses while you were alive, he'll ask why you >weren't YOU." > >Time to "do the dishes". To quote from the works of Ron Brown (only an aural history is available), "It brings a tear to me one good eye!" Regards! -Richard > >regards, > -vance- > >Vance Bass >Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA >Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: More on monocock
Hello all! Just to be sure, I'M NOT CLAIMING TO HAVE INVENTED ANYTHING HERE! The Wrightscale Porter (original slip version) has a water level plug connected to the saddle tank to allow for water levelling as well as vacuum refilling. Truly useful, and a heck of a lot of fun to use. Sounds cool too. A water level plug by definition is useful for vacuum filling a cooling engine. All Roundhouse boilers have a water level plug, and many can be fitted with aftermarket Goodall type valves. So, to the point, I'm just having fun stating an opinion that I think that the combination of a Goodall type valve and a water level valve is the most useful combination for extended operation... in my opinion. The term monocock seems to make sense to me because most 1:1 scale locomotives had a tri-cock arrangement that could be used to verify a sight glass reading. They of course were not used to dump excess water like we do, but the valves were in the identical location. As an item of pure finesse, the bushing on the Bantam is just a tad more complex than the RH variety because it includes a collector (or anti-collector depending on how you look at it) tube that is flush with the top arch of the boiler. This allows for maximum boiler fill and takes advantage of Gordon's design which includes a proper wet steam collector in the steam dome. This collector (anti-collector) is the reason that it would have been easier to use the banjo turret. So, allow me to restate. I'M NOT CLAIMING TO HAVE INVENTED ANYTHING HERE! So few things are truly innovative, and even the combination of several good ideas is hardly unique in many circumstances. (Even Mssr. Goodall's valve is just a clack valve, all due respects to Mr. Clack!) I'm just passing on a few pix from what I did with my weekend. What did you all do with yours? Regards! -Richard ====== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Bantam
Phil, Clark, The silicone tube clack valve (Goodall type valve!) on my Bantam is located under the filler hatch casting on the saddle tank. I am not sure if all Bantams include this forward bushing. What do you see when you lift the filler hatch casting off the saddle tank? Gary B... how is your's set up? Gordon, are you listening? Ground control to Major Tom? Clark, thanks for the treatise on clack valves, banjo fittings, and such! Vance, archive that puppy on your site! Regards! -Richard >Kathy & Phil Creer wrote: >> >> Thank you for your detailed answer. Next question, my boiler filler also >> holds the safety valve...how does one go about substituting the goodall for >> that? > >Maybe someone else who is more familiar with the Bantam can advise Phil >on goodall valve placement in that engine. > >I've only seen photos of the engine. There should be several in service >by members of this list. > >Clark >= >Clark B Lord - Las Vegas, Nevada USA 702-431-3568 >Live Steamer running 1:32, 1:20.3, 1:12 & 1:8 engines == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: More on monocock
If the feed pump over fills the boiler, then there >is another use for it. It's also a handy fitting for air tests. Geoff, I agree! On my SNCF-mod ten wheeler I leave the axle pump closed until water starts shooting out the safety valves... it makes for a little priming but it's the easiest way to mark a full boiler. (Drawings and geometry are necessary to show that on that loco the safety valves and bushing sit low enough that when water level hits them there is still sufficient air gap for steam generation. This of course would not work on all locomotives.) If I'm diligent and watch carefully (and open the bypass quickly) it doesn't prime the loco. It's also a handy steam take off for steam testing. I installed a monocock valve on a Frank S. way back, and then later used it as the steam plant to steam test the chassis on my American 4-4-0 way back when. Regards! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
More on monocock
I though of another reason I like the monocock arrangment over a sight glass. At the end of a session I leave the valve cracked so that vacuum can't form and suck the superheater (or supply line) and lubricator contents into the boiler. I've posted two photos of the monocock that I added to my Bantam: http://www.steamup.com/temp/monocock.jpg http://www.steamup.com/temp/monocock_annotated.jpg Much less than 90 degrees rotation of the monocock lever is sufficient, and the location and angle is correct for easy access when the locomotive is at rest with the regulator closed. Because the two valves (regulator and monocock) are so close together it was impossible to fit a bushing or nub to attach a threaded fitting to direct the water and steam below the foot plate and onto the tracks. I soft soldered a very small ribbed nipple onto the valve body and it is small enough to clear the regulator valve body while threading the monocock into the bushing. I had been using a small diameter silicone tube press fitted onto that nipple to direct the overflow from the monocock. I had a piece of heat shrink staring at me on the bench while working on this project and have since attached a piece of heat shrink to the nipple by shrinking the tubing over it. Seems to work great so far. In the photos you can see the banjo arrangement that Carl and I have been aluding to. That would have been the easiest way to add a valve. My plans are to add a whistle by adding another banjo take-off to that turret arrangement. (It would squirt water if used when the boiler is topped off. The whistle on my Roundhouse Billy Sierra Flume #9 mod is used to blow down any excess water in just this fashion.) I'm pretty sure that I've flogged this topic to death by now! Summary? I'll take a Goodall valve and a monocock over a tender pump and a sight glass any day. (A Mikado with an axle pump, tender pump, and monocock would however be just way too cool! And the sight glass there just for good looks...) Regards! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Bantam
> >Richard, did I miss anything here? >I think this is really more accurate than a level glass in our sizes >because you get around capillary action in the glass...this will avoid >the dreaded "shaken loco syndrome" to read the level glass. :-) >With all that said, I do like how Mike Chaney installs a level glass >with a blowdown to get rid of the bubble. > Well stated Carl! If the goal is to be able to fill a boiler under pressure, then the rank order in terms of precision is: Large diameter water glass (8mm or greater) with blowdown Monocock Large diamter water glass (8mm or greater) The standard 6mm water glass is useless in my opinion. I wonder if there is an additive that could be added to distilled water that would break the surface tension in the glass? I don't know anything about the chemistry of this sort of thing. That might return the standard water glass to usefullness if the additive doesn't have secondary harmful effects o the other systems. Later! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Bantam
Kevin, is the check valve a Goodall type valve for filling the boiler under pressure? Just wondering. I can't think of a way on a Roundhouse to add a monocock AND a Goodall type valve without some surgery. It works on Bantam because there's already a tap for the Goodall, and the pressure gauge banjo is on top of the boiler. A bit of serendipity. ... although with some clever machining you could make an adaptor that has a needle valve upstream (towards the pressure) of a Goodall type valve or clack valve, with that adaptor then threading into the standard RH water lever plug on the boiler. A ball/spring clack valve arrangement would be compact... the silicone tube arrangement most commonly used now for the Goodall type valve would be a bit large and unwieldy. Idle thoughts perhaps... -Richard >Carl H. Malone O.D. wrote: > >> >> On a roundhouse boiler, isnt there a screw in plug on top near the steam >> regulator exit? (its been awhile since I 've looked at one) If so, you could >> come in through here with the tube dipping down into the boiler. Not really >> a sightglass but would let you blow off excess water in the boiler to the >> proper level. > >There is, but I already have a check valve going into that. If there's >a way to add a fitting to a boiler without soldering, I'd really love to >know how to do it. > >Later, > >K == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
RE: Garden Rail market trends
Hey groupies... I think there are other issues that are relevant to the ride-on vs. small scale stuff beyond the cost and size issues. While at first any sort of steam engine with any sort of rolling stock was a fascination, I now very much enjoy seeing and to the extent possible operating full trains. A Bantam or Porter on the front of a rake of industrial stock, or an Aster Schools head ending a proper consist, or a C&S Mogul on a rake of nice era-appropriate rolling stock really is a nice thing. The big steamups feature lots of this, and the smaller steamups are very much headed this direction. This is accomplished in the larger scales as evidenced by some nice videos (In the land of Giants, etc.), but I think that it is a rare thing to see a nice train vs. a really nice engine and some riding cars. I also think that many of us small scale live steamers are also very much interesed in modelling, and it would be pretty tough to reproduce the Algerita Botanical in 7+ narrow gauge. :-) The whole railroad is important to many small scale live steamers, not just the equipment. Just a few thoughts. That said I've had my eye on the Maxitrak Li'l Jo in 4 3/4 since Ron Brown sent me a catalog a few years ago. I'm pretty sure that I can fit a 12' radius 4 3/4 line in my backyard once the house construction is over... it's a fun thing to dream about and lay out in CAD. I have all the track in a separate CAD layer so that I can keep the official construction and land use plans in full synch with my secret plan to rule the back yard with my railroading... ! -Richard ========== Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: Resistance Units
Hi Vance, You're knowledge on this far exceeds mine. All I know is that it has a set voltage of 4V, and the total wattage varies by 5 discrete steps. They have two models, one in the 300W-ish range, the second in the 400W-range. I have the second... seems to make sense given the larger models in these scales. For your design the voltage is fixed and you vary the current, correct? Before I ask these questions I should read your article... but... I have no idea where that issue is in this house! Later! -Richard >> One thing that made sense to me when looking at this purchase was that of >> voltage. The optimum situation is low voltage and high amps. This helps >> prevent arching situations, sparking, etc. The PBL unit is a 4V system, >> 300+ watts (don't remember exactly), so that's 75+ amps. > >You're never going to get more than 115Vx15A=1725 watts (that's >a LOT!) due to the way typical household lines are rated. It's no >coincidence, I suppose, that you see that wattage on hair dryers >and toasters all the time. > >Richard, how do they vary the output? I would assume that it's a >tapped transformer (if there are discrete levels) or a variac (if it's >infinitely adjustable). Hartford's jewelry-making unit has a big >honking variac in it. > >What you want, if you're going to build from components, is a >transformer with a BIG core and a very high amperage rating. If it's >tapped for several different voltages, you'll have options for output >levels. Or, if you can scare up a variac for under $75, go for it. >That's the ideal solution, but they're hard to come by. > >-vance- == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
Re: (Forney?) was "New Subscriber"
>> $5000 LGB DB or some such 2-10-2, built by Aster. What's the point of a >> loco like that that isn't live steam? > >OK, I'll take a stab at that. If it were live steam, it would be $1. >It's a *cheap* locomotive (all relative). > >Of course, for that price you could have a C&S Mogul or two. I think >they're still available new, aren't they? > >-vance- That's my point! They could easily build that sucker as live steam for $5K. Aster does it all the time. Sigh. Later! -Richard == Richard Finlayson Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives" Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models" Check out: http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
