Thanksgiving Point RR
If any of you ladies or gentlemen plan on being in the Salt Lake City area and have some time to kill there is a great Ga. 1 model RR at Thanksgiving Point. It is about 25 miles south of Salt Lake off of I-15. They claim over a mile of track (all stainless steel). There is also a massive garden to view along with a Dinosaur museum and a gift shop that you guys should not let your wives within 100 yards. Salty on the Road. Next comes Montana
No Brown Out here
Walt- In my case I have been frantically trying to get everything ready to start on our (wife and mine) yearlong trip around the U.S.. Our plan is to depart the 16th of this month for Southern Oregon then East to Salt Lake, North to Montana then east to Minnesota for a month or so. Then on to who knows where but you can bet we will be somewhere warm like Florida in the winter. I got my steamers and some track packed along with a oval of track and plan on running whenever I have the opportunity. I am hoping to get to see lots of garden railroads along the way. My only absolute requirement is that we be in Diamondhead MS in January for the annual steam-up. So come wednesday we are on the road. Hopefully we will get our web page up and running early in the trip so I can post pictures. We have a new laptop and a cell phone so we will be able to maintain contact. Looking forward to meeting many of you on the way. Salty - on the road again
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
In a message dated 01-05-02 07:50:19 EDT, you write: Will the distilled water conduct enough current to actually be of use? If I recall correctly from many, many years ago in chemestry that distilled water will not conduct electrical current. I may be wrong but there has to be something in the water,(salt, minerals, acid, etc.) for it to conduct elecrticity. Salty
Re: convention
In a message dated 01-04-27 02:48:02 EDT, you write: Can any of you mossbacks tell us what's really going on at the convention Mossback I resemble that remark!!! Unfortunately I do not have much information on what is going on up north in Seattle area. I do know there is a sizeable group in that area that get together monthly to run steam locomotives. In conjunction with the National Convention there are going to be several open houses held in the Portland OR area prior to the convention. I will see if I can find the information and Post it for all to read. Unfortunately there are not a lot of Ga. 1 live steam people here in Portland and surrounding area that I am aware of. Myself I will probably be in the mid-west on my travels, if my wife has not killed me by then. Rosey (my Ruby) and Cricket, will be along as well as an 8' x 12' oval of track. I should be a hit at the campsites. Another note. I just received and replaced the pistons and rods on my Ruby. Wow what a difference in performance. I knew it was leaking around the piston rods but did not realize how badly untill I made the change. I would suggest that anyone with a Ruby with very much run time on it do the same. The piston kit is $29. +- and worth the investment. I called Accucraft and they shipped them the next day. Salty- (who said I my back was green??)
Re: Test message; no content
Test message So where are the questions?? Did I pass?
Re: O.T. Garden Railway on TV
In a message dated 01-04-11 22:02:34 EDT, you write: If anyone has trouble figuring out which show it is I would be happy to ask my sister. Please do and post it for us here. My wife is addicted to HG TV so I would have no trouble watching it as opposed to the old war movies that I like. Salty
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
Has anyone ever taken the top nut off the turret? If that goes thru into the boiler, I have had my Ruby almost totally disassembled. I doubt if there is enough space for a small tube, unless it was a very small tube, to go through the nut and into the boiler without restricting the steam flow through the block to the lubricator and cylinders. I'm not saying it cannot be done but I would get ahold of another nut before I started to attempt to install a tube through one. Salty
Miserable Weldor
Harry Years ago, before I decided I would rather burn my fingers with a live steam locomotive, I was one of those "miserable weldors" at a truck manufacturing company. I was taught to weld by an old WW II welder that when he got mad at you would make you spend a day welding with bare rod. Talk about a challenge. It works but it is really ugly, but it taught us how to maintain our arc length. I will attempt to help out and offer some advice. Others may disagree with what I have to say, but everyone is entitled to his opinion. First an AC welder and E6013 rod are at best just OK for welding on heavier clean metal. My preference when doing general maitnenance welding was E-6011 which will weld in all positions and on dirty metal. It does produce a lot of spatter. Many years ago (pressing my memory here) I used to use some stuff called Jet rod or Jet weld (E 7024) that was made by Lincoln, great stuff and laid a nice bead with very little spatter and with the proper setting the slag would just curl and fall off. I do not recall if we used it with an AC machine or not. But, it was great stuff for welding in the flat position, not good for vertical or overhead. You might see if you can find a couple of pieces and try it. Another rod that I have used is E7018 (AC) that works well in most positions but you must specify it is for an AC machine. What ever rod you use it must be kept clean and dry. I used to store it in a metal insulated box with a light bulb inside to keep it warm and happy. Depending on your financial situation and if you plan on doing a lot more welding, I would suggest that you purchase a MIG wire feed welder. They do not require a lot of skill to use, just some practice. I see them in the classified ads all the time for sale at what seems to be a reasonable price. They can be used on steel, and with the proper gas mix aluminum and even a brass alloy wire that I once had opportunity to use on sheet metal. (another story) Another better option is a TIG heli-arc welding machine which, under proper conditions will produce an extremely clean weld on almost any clean metal (not all). They are really great for welding aluminum, stainless steel, and some exotic metals.I have been told that you can also weld copper with them, however, have no experience with that process. I may try it some day. The Heli-arc requires a little more skill but from what I have seen you should have no problem using one. TIG welders tend to cost a little more, but in my opinion are worth the investment if you are going to do a lot of welding as it gives you a lot more options. Hope this is an assist Salty
Re: SuperHeater project pictures
Chris Wolcot Nice piece of work on your Ruby. Great pictures too. Did you increase your operating pressure to help increase the run time? Salty
Re: SuperHeater project pictures
In a message dated 01-03-26 13:28:26 EST, you write: I had it apart that one piston was much 'tighter' than the other side was. Any ideas on what is causing that and how to fix it? (It still does not have a LOT of time on it, so it may not be fully 'run-in' yet.) I would guess that it is still tight from being new. I have read in the past of some of the first Rubys having problems with steam leakage around the piston rods. Mine has minimal leakage and I will probably have to replace them in the future. Aristocraft may have tightened up their tolerances around the piston rods to cure the problem. Only conjecture on my part as I don't know this to be a fact. I am sure that after you run it a while it will loosen up as mine has. Salty
Re: SuperHeater project pictures
aristo-craft, accucraft ... whatever ;-) = senior moment!!! It is hell to get old!!
Re: Make your own foundry
Ferdinand - Thanks for posting this page. I printed it out for future reference (13 pages). After I return from my great adventure I may attempt to build the furnace, I think I will pass on the lathe. http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bill_r/fun_with_molten_metal.htm Where is it you are in Canada? Salty
Re: Refund??
I don't mean the bar!)--altho that's a good retreat. Geoff. I could swear that I found you in the bar more than out at the tracks at DH01! or was that just a fluke!! Salty
Re: Back to wheels
Are Ruby's wheels insulated? I don't know if the new ones are but mine are definitely not as my smoking power supply can attest Salty
Re: Turning wheels
In a message dated 01-03-21 09:54:56 EST, you write: My own method adds a couple of steps to the process, pre-turning in a sense, so that I locate the finished wheel shape (rims, faces, spokes, bosses, etc,) in the best location within the rough casting and get it "square" before I really start whittling away metal. I start by doing two things both from the front, I get the wheel rim inside circle (not OD) concentric, then I get the spokes all in the same plane (square to the lathe axis) and make a rough facing and OD cut. At this point I still have essetially a rough casting but I now have "witness" faces to work from and I know that as long as I keep those faces square in the chuck, or on the faceplate, the rim and spokes are going to end up square to the axle in the finished wheel. Harry- Great Idea!!! I will have to file this info away for future reference. Salty
Bar
In a message dated 01-03-21 11:55:15 EST, you write: Was there a BAR at DH? All I knew about was running trains! Yea right Walt!!!
Re: brass Colouring.
In a message dated 01-03-20 04:32:21 EST, you write: blacken copper /brasses/ but not all bronzes and not silver solder. There is a product called Liver of Sulphur that will turn silver solder black. It is sold at jewelry supply stores. I bought some to color brass, it didn't , but all the silver soldered joints turned black. Salty
Re: Refund??
Just in time to spend that tax refund! Ah - What is a "tax refund" ? I only wish!! Salty
Re: wheels
In a message dated 01-03-19 09:46:01 EST, you write: I hope this link gets through as majordomo rejected my previous emails as containing "attachments" which aren't permitted. Maybe this will work. Royce - Since that list went to Yahoo I have not been able to access it. I have batted several e-mail messages back and forth with Yahoo and I have not been able to resolve the problem. They are telling me that I am not really me and therefore cannot access. Stupid stuff!! Salty
Re: Pre-production pictures
falling into the "better late than never" category are pictures from last week's bay area garden railway society's annual meeting, Dave - Thanks for the posting of the pictures. Great Stuff!!! Do you know if they got smart and put a superheater in that new Ruby? I like that Shay, might have to get me one of those. Salty
Re: question re : milling
In a message dated 01-03-17 19:24:12 EST, you write: are there any thoughts on the dremel drill-press adapter? is it worth the investment? or should one just save pennies up for a 1/4-inch, full-scale drill press? It is not very well designed and has limited use. Save your pennies and buy a drill press or better yet a milling machine. Salty
Re: Ruby boiler reinstall
In a message dated 01-03-17 09:45:45 EST, you write: Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle. Been there, done that!! there is no easy way to put those little #%$*$ screws back in. First I made some small wrenches using metric allen head screws. Then I bought two sets of metric wrenches from Sulphur Springs, they helped but it is still a lot of trouble to get them back in especially when you wrap the smoke box and boiler with brass sheet as I did. Salty
Re: Preparing a RUBY for SUPER-HEAT
QUESTION I: To do this, I have to take the boiler off the frame so I can get to the saddle. I've removed the mounting screw at the rear of the boiler and the four screws holding the frame to the saddle, undone the unions for the gas and steam supply lines coming off the back head, taken the C-clips off the side rods, unscrewed the J-Bar stand and am about to use an allen wrench to remove the upper half of the rocker arms for the Stephenson value system. IS THERE AN EASIER WAY? DON'T mess with the valve gear it is really a bugger to get set back in place to operate correctly. You do not have to remove it to install a superheater. QUESTION II: I plan on bending the steam line going into the saddle to come up into the firebox, where I was planning on using a union to connect it to the SS super heater tube. This will place the union fairly close to the flue opening. I have a feeling this is not the best solution. ANY IDEAS? That should work others have done the same thing. I drilled out the fitting on top of the valve block and tapped it. I then made a threaded riser tube with a union attached at right angles to it that aims directly at the bottom of the flue. to this I attached the superheater tube. Bending the tube up into the firebox should work just as well. Be careful when bending that you don't crimp the tubing. QUESTION III: I was going to run the SH tube through the opening for the burner, but after getting into it I found the gas jet is right there at the air holes, and the burner is closed off at the interior end. How do I get the tube into the flue? Is this even right? The only other option I can see is to bend a couple of VERY tight (~1/4") bends in the stainless and try to put it down the flue from the front. Others I have seen and I have cut a small notch on the bottom of the ring that holds the gas jet/ burner in the flue. It needs to be a notch if you have unions installed on both ends of the superheater tube. Don't make the notch any bigger than needed to insert the superheater tube as it will effect the burner.
Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write: How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it? I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier (Portland OR) that I bent,cold, around a 1/2" dowel pin using a bender that I fabricated. I made a coil of six loops this way. I also did the same thing with a 3/8" dowel pin. The tubing maintained its shape with just a little flattening on the outside. I don't know what alloy KS stainless is but it should be able to be bent if you are careful. Salty
Re: O.T., Re: wheels
Alternatively, I also know of one Marine Steam engine builder again in UK ,who stopped using $45,000 worth of his lost wax casting moulds, and bought two 5 axis CNC machines. Do you have any idea how much those 5 axis CNC mills cost?? Mega bucks!! You could probably buy several Aster Alleghenys for the price of one of them of any size. Salty
Willie Model Tools
Oh didn't I tell you. It will be a scale model of Willamette c/n 21 which is on display in Dunsmuir Ca. You gear heads will love it. Clark- I am green with envy of your machine tools. I propose to get at least a mill and a suitable lathe after my trip this year. As for the Willamette project, this is something I have got to see. What an ambitious project. I might have to make a special trip to Las Vegas just to see it when it is complete. I have in my long range plans to build one too in 1/20.3 but not before building some simpler engines and kits. I am currently looking at the Aster CS kit for a starter. Please keep us posted on your progress. Salty CCBW
Re: Die casting
I'm working on building one, for Aluminum Bronze(90% aluminum 10% copper). Terry- How do you think a similar injector would work for wax patterns? Just trying to think of a better way to inject wax in RTV molds. The two different style pumps I have used leave something to be desired. Salty
Re: Accucraft Shay and 2-4-2
In a message dated 01-03-13 01:10:23 EST, you write: Well, at least of the Shay. Thanks for posting those pictures. It is too bad they did not run so we could have a performance report. Salty
CCBW
(no-body asks what CCBW is - I am disappointed) Okay so I'll ask even already. Well now that I am retired and my wife is still working I have taken on most of the kitchen duties and grocery shopping. So I am now the Chief Cook and Bottle Washer. I guess it is sort of a weak attempt at humor!! Salty
Re: Pattern Pool Powdered Metal Wheels
I would like to add a couple of comments in regards to a pattern pool and powdered metal wheels. I think would be a great idea to have a pattern pool for driver wheels. I really like Trents idea of powedered metal wheels. If I am understanding his train of thought that his intention is not to be making driver wheels but wheels for rolling stock. (correct me if I am wrong). I guess that my question would be is there enough of a market for powdered metal wheels to make it worthwile? I imagine that the proposed wheels would be suitable for all Ga. 1 construction but there would need to be a number of wheels for each scale. If the tooling cost would be absorbed by the company that Trent works for perhaps Gary Raymond would be interested in marketing them probably others would be too. Addressing the pattern pool. As I understand, Harry wants to form a pool for driver wheels of various configurations to supply the individuals that are interested in scratch building live steam locomotives. During the heyday of steam locomotives there were hundreds of not thousands of different wheels manufactured with a wide variety of profiles. First I could not begin to guess the number of people that are into scratch building live steam locomotives. I would think that the number would be less than 700 individuals. Of that number there would be probably less than 10% that want the same identical driver wheels in same configuration or scale. Making dies that cost in excess of $10,000, weather it be for an EDM, powdered metal process or die casting, etc., would be cost prohibitive for the small quantity of wheels that would be needed. As stated earlier in a post that most foundries do not want to mess around with small quantities and getting them cast would be somewhat of a problem. I suppose that would be up to the individual that wants the wheels to resolve. Another comment that was made was that if the patterns were all stored in one location that they would be subject to loss by fire, death or some natural disaster. I would propose that the keeper of the patterns make rubber or RTV silicon molds of the patterns, cast them in wax and make permanent metal patterns. Permanent patterns could be either investment cast or sand cast. I have seen some very detailed sand cast parts. Then the original pattern could be returned to the owner. I realize that this is a time consuming process but it would protect the patterns from loss and provide a source of driver wheels for everyone wanting to build a locomotive from scratch. I have made a number of parts for a small stationary steam engine using this process and it is not difficult, it just takes time. Maybe this is just complicating the issue. I have in my future plans to make several live steam locomotives. It would save me considerable time if I had access to a variety of wheels so that I would not have to make my own wheel patterns. I am willing to support this driver wheel pool any way I can. Note to Susan would you contact me, off list, regarding the wax pattern process "They have a 3D wax printer and can therefore make wax models for investment casting direct from the CAD files" I am very interested in this!! At least point me to where I can find more information. Thanks to all Salty, old, retired, with too much time on my hands.
Re: wheels
In a message dated 01-03-09 17:50:53 EST, you write: Am I the only one who got a bunch of Monday's email messages delivered again today? No your not alone. I got several days worth. I thought it was my computer. Salty
Re: wheels
In a message dated 01-03-10 08:10:31 EST, you write: Anyway, on a serious note, I have just had some info through from a foundry here in the UK. They have a 3D wax printer and can therefore make wax models for investment casting direct from the CAD files (STL preferred). Castings can be made in aluminum, low-allow steels, stainless and tool steels, brass, bronze and zinc. This sounds like just the thing for making wheel patterns. I hope that they would be inclined to make wheels for us or at least the patterns. Please keep us posted on what you find. (wow tool steel wheels would never wear out) Salty
Re: Powdered Metal Wheels
In a message dated 01-03-10 17:03:58 EST, you write: he suggested that I ask the group about wheels that were powdered metal (PM). WOW! Why didn't I think of that? What a great idea!! I now ask myself the same question. I have in the past tested parts that were manufactured in this fashon and they took all the torture that a fabricated or machined part. The initial cost of the die might be something else. Salty
Re: Comments on Axle Pump Notes Page Sought
In a message dated 01-03-10 18:37:51 EST, you write: I sure am glad that we that own Rubys do not have to put in axle pumps. We don't?
Re: PLS Run Day Schedule for 2001
In a message dated 01-03-07 19:03:08 EST, you write: I hope that some of listees here can make it to one of the meets. Joe I hope to be in the area for the fall meet. Sal;ty CCBW
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - patterns
In a message dated 01-03-07 09:49:38 EST, you write: So based upon your offer of the donation of your pattern, I propose that we create the Garden Gauge or Small Scale Pattern Pool. Comments? Nominations for first custodian? Harry and list members. I would be more than casually interested in doing this as I am getting into casting and pattern making. I would propose to cast rubber (RTV silicon molds), wax patterns and probably cast a permanent pattern. I could then return the master to the owner and loan or rent out the permanent patterns as requested. If and when I get together all the equipment needed for investment and fine sand casting I propose to cast wheels and other parts. As I am retired I do not to make a lot of money but enough to cover my expenses and add a little to my bank account. (well I need money to buy that Aster Allegheny :-) and the CS Mogul) As many of you are aware I am planning a tour of the U.S. in this coming year and so it would be the beginning of next year before I could get fully engaged in this endevor.
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - patterns
In a message dated 01-03-07 10:23:08 EST, you write: Someone sober, dependable, organized. Well I guess that lets me out !! :-) Salty
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 02:49:59 EST, you write: He then makes a mould in investment plaster (is that the right word?), That is the right word. The process is called lost wax casting and the wax model is surrounded by "investing it" This is done with a special formulated plaster mix. Once the pattern is invested it is allowed to set up and then put in a burnout oven where the wax is burned out of the mold. I am in the process of making parts for a small oscilating engine using this procedure (as well as some jewelery for my wife). It's fun stuff and not real difficult. I have access to all the necessary equipment at our local Community College. Salty
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 10:13:24 EST, you write: Where can one learn more about this process, including the details on how-to-do-it-yourself? I am currently enrolled in a class in Metalsmithing and Jewelry making at a local community college. The college has most of the equipment required to do lost wax investment casting. There are two books that I would recommend that tells the process. First is Handbook of Lost Wax or Investment Casting by James E Sopcak, it is a little dated in some respects but it shows how one might make some of his own equipment. Second is Practical Casting by Tim McCreight which is a very good book and covers more than just investment casting. I recommend it highly. There are probably many other books on the subject but these two plus what I have learned in school have answered most of my questions. One note is that these books are aimed mostly at making jewelry but the principles apply to most any type of investment casting. You might also look for a jewelry making supply in your area for additional information they are usually very helpful when they think you are going to buy casting equipment and supplies. Hope this is some help Salty CCBW (no-body asks what CCBW is - I am disappointed)
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 10:32:58 EST, you write: "Casting small Metal and Rubber parts". Oh yea!!! I forgot that one, I also have a copy of that as well as one on making RTV silicon molds to cast wax parts to cast metal parts.. Another source is TAP Plastics for RTV mold making supplies. Salty
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Wheels
In a message dated 01-03-06 11:27:59 EST, you write: So, does this sound "do-able"? Royce - It is do-able and I would be definitely be interested in a wheel pattern or what ever you are willing to part with. I plan on getting into casting in the future and would like to collect as many patterns. A side note: I have been using RTV silicon for molds to cast wax patterns. This is a two part mixture that must set for 24 hours but requires no heat to distort patterns. I have used it on clay, wax, plastic, metal and wood and it will not stick to any of them so no mold release agent is required. I would post pictures on the other list but for some reason I cannot access it any more and Yahoo has been somewhat less than helpful. Salty CCBW
Re: oscilating
In a message dated 01-03-06 12:17:23 EST, you write: Might try the Unit Steam Engine. It is designed to be used as a single or stacked together for multi-cylinder engines. It goes for about 36 USD. Available from http://www.papernsteam.co.uk/use.shtml http://www.papernsteam.co.uk/use.shtml email for a catalog. It assembles in about 10 minutes. Ran it last night as a twin on steam and it ran well. Would it work for a Shay??
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 13:43:42 EST, you write: Salty CCBW Since I am retired and my wife is still gainfully employed I have taken over the kitchen duties - CCBW (chief cook and bottle washer). Salty
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 17:41:14 EST, you write: The great thing about Sopcak's book is that he shows you how to make all of the equipment you will need, including a burnout oven. Would you please post more information about this book if possible? Thanks, What more is there to say. It tells all about lost wax casting and is aimed more toward the jewelry making hobby. It describes how you can make equipment to do lost wax investment casting. I picked up my copy at a local jewelry supply store. It is a small paper back and should be available through Amazon.com or Powells.com. I know that Powells has it as I saw it when I was looking for another book just last week. If you cannot find a copy let me know off list and I can pick you up a copy when I go to the jewelry supply again. Of course you will have to supply a mailing address and reemburse me for the cost. It only cost around $5.00 plus postage. Salty
Re: Casting - Lost wax
In a message dated 01-03-06 20:35:01 EST, you write: Full title, authors full name, ISBN number would help. Thanks bill I think that got covered. If not here it is again. Handbook of Lost Wax or Investment Casting by James E. Sopcak, ISBN # 0-935182-28-4. Another source is Grobet.com which also is a supplier of just about anything you can imagine for casting and jewelry making. I picked up a copy of thier catalog today and the stuff isn't cheap. ( Ain't our little locos jewels??) Salty
Re: Accucraft speculation
In a message dated 01-03-05 17:16:13 EST, you write: Suppose they might be working on a Shay? If that drawing is it, then it's going to be a pretty little thing. I have heard through the grapevine that they have a two cylinder, two truck Shay locomotive in the works. I do not have any of the details on it, other than it was modeled on the Ruby principle. Salty
Re: SitG Website OK
In a message dated 01-03-02 16:40:52 EST, you write: just fyi, there were technical problems at the steamup.com web provider -- which includes a variety of sites of suppliers -- until around 6 California time last nite. Glad to hear that. I thought I might have posted something I shouldn't have and had been cut off. I still can't access that other list on Yahoo it does not recognize my password darn!!! Salty
Re: Ruby in the real
In a message dated 01-03-02 20:49:24 EST, you write: Here is a great link of a Lumber train very close to the Ruby. Link?What Link??? I dont see no Link!!!
Steamup.com
What is up with the Steam in the Garden web site. It will not let me access anything. I get the message FORBIDDEN you do not have access-? Salty
Re: Forney kit information
In a message dated 01-03-01 19:26:09 EST, you write: If you weren't aware of the pilot kit, either you haven't been paying attention or I haven't been in your face enough with it. (That's how Dave likes it) It's been out about eight months, in any case, and is an exceptionally beautiful addition to any locomotive. ;-) I will also attest to the quality of the pilot kit. I installed one on my Ruby who I now call Rosey. That item has really dressed up the engine. One point though they do not survive a collision with a loose caboose in a tunnel. Beautiful they are strong they are not. I guess the driver needs to pay attention. :-) Vance- package arrived today so I will be assembling a new one for Rosey!! Salty CCBW (another shameless plug)
Re: Ruby mod I'd like to see...
In a message dated 01-02-27 23:55:14 EST, you write: I don't have the funding, or the time, but I'm suprised no one has done this yet. It seems like a natural conversion. :) As one of my mentors once told me, " whatever you do to it it is still a Ruby" I think it would be easier to build something like this from parts from the various manufacturers. But then what do I know-- :-)
Re: Equipment and weather
In a message dated 01-02-28 11:28:23 EST, you write: What happened to global warming? Jerry It is up here in Oregon, The past three days have been sunny and near 60. I have even seen some flowers in bloom. Is this still February??? Salty
Speaking of Steam
In a message dated 01-02-28 16:08:29 EST, you write: SR24 is I think gas-fired so draft from the exhaust is not needed, Right you are it is butane fired. And speaking of steam. Looking at the ads in the new GR St.Aubin Station has listed under live steam an Excelsior 0-4-2, what is it??? Second question is Butane is a poor performer in cold weather so I am told. Am I correct in my assumption that this is not the case with "Meth" fired locos, that they run ok in cold weather. Salty CCBW
Re: Rubber Molds (was Wheels)
the cost of making a rubber mold to shoot the waxes. I made five rubber molds for the parts to build a oscillating engine found in K.N. Harris book on stationary steam engines. The total cost for the rubber (silicon two part mix) and the wax was less than $50.00. Making a quality pattern is the most essential part of the process. After making the patterns and the molds I discovered that making a well finished pattern is essential. I did not finish mine well and I can see the grain lines, saw marks, and flaws of the wood patterns in the wax castings. The flywheel has given me a lot of trouble as I cannot seem to get a good wax casting no matter what I do. I suspect that the web, (area between the hub and outer rim) is too thin and not allowing the mold to fill completely. I have spent a lot of time trying to add air vents, increasing the amount of pressure of the hot wax and changed the point of injection of the wax. This has given me some improved castings but they still have voids and air pockets. I have taken to repairing the wheels as best I can and hope to have some wheels cast in a brass alloy within a couple of weeks. Making a rubber mold is not rocket science and providing one has a quality pattern it can be done easily all that is required is time and patience. A minimum of equipmemt is required to make molds of a reasonable quality. I modified a small air pump made of brass to inject the wax. I picked up an old hot plate at a Goodwill store along with a double boiler that I use to melt the wax in. With the exception of the wheels the rest of the castings came out with a reasonable quality. The acid test will be if the parts can be investmemt casted and produce a operating steam engine. Salty (learning the hard way) CCBW
Equipment and weather
In a message dated 01-02-27 16:35:56 EST, you write: I have all the equipment and knowledge and no place to set it up! Well Bob maybe you should move up to Portland and we can set all that equipment up in my shop. Another up side is that we do not have any of that white fluffy stuff all over the ground. Last two days have been sunny and near 60. Salty
Cumbres Toltec
In a message dated 01-02-26 13:21:18 EST, you write: Jim C. Cumbres Toltec Scenic RR track out of Chama, NM. In my year long journey I plan on going there, right after I leave your place and visit Vance. Sonni H. said he might get me a ride in the cab of one of thier engines. (they will probably make me shovel coal) I have been mapping out a lot of railway sites and garden railways I want to visit and hope to have a web site up and running for the trip. Salty and better half great adventure or something. Salty CCBW
Re: Wheels
So are the Mark Wood wheels sand cast or investmemt cast? It seems to me that there surely is some foundry here in the good old USA that would be willing to cast wheels for us. I am currently enrolled in a local community college course on jewelry making and metal smithing. This term is devoted to investment casting and making wax patterns. I am attempting to make castings for a small stationary steam engine with hopes that if it works I can use it on a BAGRS project loco. In making wax patterns for jewelry we use what is called carving wax that can be sawed, drilled, filed, turned. I am wondering if this stuff, the carving wax, could be machined on a CNC mill and wheel patterns made that way? My initial attempts at making rubber molds and casting wax patterns have met with mixed results. I have produced some parts that are acceptable but the wheels have been a problem. Another approach, providing there were a sizeable quantity of one size and style of wheel would be die casting. The initial cost of the mold might be rather expensive but a large quantity of wheels could be made this way. There is a company here in Portland that produces precision parts for jet engines that have an extremely fine finish. Another that is a spin off of Freightliner that also produces a lot of cast parts for trucks but I think that most of thier stuff is aluminum and probably would not work for train wheels. As I look at it there are so many different wheel sizes and profiles that it would be difficult to get everyone to agree on just a few patterns. So what material are we talking about using? Cast Iron, Brass, Bronze Stainless, or something else? What quantities are we talking about and what sizes and profiles? There are lots of questions to be answered before we could get wheels made to order. (interesting prospects) Salty CCBW
Re: Steaming Again!
In a message dated 01-02-26 19:05:59 EST, you write: Better weather is around the corner! Well Joe it is here in Oregon - Sunny skys and moderate temperatures Salty (wondering if I forgot and moved to southern CA)
Re:Bon Ami
In a message dated 01-02-24 19:49:59 EST, you write: Incidentyally, it is great for giving that final polish to slide valve surfaces--good stuff. Also works good for removing coffee stains from dentures and polishing jewelry just remember to rinse well!!! Salty
Re: Russia Iron [was: Forced repaint, was: Cleaning Engines]
In a message dated 01-02-23 13:09:46 EST, you write: At the risk of repating myself too often, Rich Chiodo showed me a wonderful trick I have used with great success. He suggested getting the softest artist's pencil you can find and just scribbling all over your smokebox. The effect of this is to put a layer of graphite -- with a clay binder -- on your smokebox. The heat and steam oil seem to bake the clay and the coating is quite durable. I went an extra step and sprayed some lock lube graphite on top, and the effect is gorgeous. And now you tell me, that is all you do is scribble all over it and cook it? I am going to have to try this. Sounds like it would sure beat Rustolium Hi-temp paint. I have not had much success finding the Brownell's Brass Black locally. I went to a jewelry supply store and they sold me some Liver of Sulphur that was supposed to color brass black. It did nothing to the brass but sure blackened the silver solder joints (and stunk up my shop). Off to look for a pencil and my graphite lock lube!! Salty
Re: Brownell's Brass Black
In a message dated 01-02-23 13:37:58 EST, you write: In Portland I would believe there are shops that do gun restoration work and they will have access to the Brownells' catalog and may even have some in their shop. I did my homework and called at least 10 gun shops and none had any of this stuff. I did not think to ask if they had a catalog. Off to search the net. Salty
Re: New to the list
In a message dated 01-02-21 10:06:26 EST, you write: I am new to the list and to Live Steam. Bio : Ferdinand Mels - small town Warsaw Ontario. Canada. Well!! Welcome to the list and the world of small scale live steam. Since I got into live steam my sparkies (electric) locomotives sit and collect dust. Steamin' is fun. I have found several sources for butane in camping and outdoor stores. It is sure a lot cheaper than the cigarette lighter refills. Salty CCBW
Re: Would like to join in
In a message dated 01-02-21 14:50:40 EST, you write: My name is , Roger Arndt, I live in Des Moines, Iowa, right now the land of cold and snow, not a good place for out door rail roading! Welcome to the list Roger. There are a lot of Ruby owners on this list. There is a fantastic amount of information shared and questions answered. Salty CCBW
Myford Speed 10
Well Susan I am very impressed. Does that Myford have a power cross feed? The locomotive drawing I assume is what you are building or planing to build. That looks like a great project. How about a picture of Susan? Salty CCBW
Steamin' in Portland
This past weekend. here in Portland OR, we had a Great American Train Show. Our Rose City Garden Railway Society set up a large display (25' x80') with over 500 feet of track including yards and sidings. The display had a ten to twelve foot high mountain with a logging operation on one end, and an entire town on the other end of the display. The main line was a U shaped dog bone affair with a number of sidings and a marshalling yard. We laid down lots of ballast, real grass, barkdust and about a hundred living plants and trees. It was a very impressive display and our club won first place for best display. Now for the good part. The club kindly agreed to set aside a couple of hours each day for running live steam locomotives (had to disconnect track power for Ruby). As there are only three of us that own steam locomotives, it was rather generous of them to let us have the time considering the show was only open for six hours each day and there are a lot of Sparkey operators in the club. My Rosey (Ruby conversion 2-4-4) ran beautifully and everyone got a real kick out of my Cricket huffing and puffing along pulling a small string of work cars. The club president impressed all the fans with his, Sandy River Rangely Lakes #24 as well. The third guy had trouble trying to operate his R/C'd Ruby and did not run. He is new to live steam and needs a little training. I managed to get in at least two runs each day with my Rosey. I think that we managed to get a number of people interested in live steam. One club member is considering getting the new C-16 from Accucraft. It was a goood weekend despite all the work we put in setting up and tearing down this display. ( I really gotta get some track laid in my yard) Salty CCBW - Portland OR
Brain not Engaged..
In a message dated 01-02-14 10:50:56 EST, you write: Just to set the record straight, I went and dug through my old issues and found Larry Bangham article. Lots of us have seen this great creation run and know Larry. The water pump article is SitG #36. He modified a RC servo motor, used the gear reduction, and attached it to a pump. So it has been done and is possible. Well I humbly admit that I was incorrect. Next time old Salty will make sure his brain is engaged before opening his mouth. :-) . Sometimes we old fellers fly off half cocked. I bow to the experts. Salty CCBW
Don't miss this!!
For you who are going to attend the Garden Railway Convention in Seattle this coming summer take an extra day and go to this place. Check the web site. http://www.mrsr.com/index.html Put this on your list of things that you must see. Lots of operational steam locomotives. Salty CCBW
Re: Portland's Forest Center Shay
Unfortunately there has been no work done on Portland's Forestry Center Shay . I was up there about a year ago to take some pictures and it is rusting away.. I believe it would take a massive effort to restore it to operating condition. Salty CCBW
Re: Oil in the boiler
In a message dated 01-02-08 09:46:50 EST, you write: Now you can say 'but the boiler space is filled with steam?' When the vessel cools the steam condenses to water, and having no access to additional gas (outside air) to fill the volume the steam once filled, thus creates a vacuum. It seems to (conjecture on my part) if one has a goodall valve installed in the boiler that as the boiler cooled it would draw air through the goodall valve and more or less equalize the pressure. This in turn would prevent oil from being drawn into the boiler. If you can push water through that valve it surely should draw air. Salty CCBW
Re: Picayune Shay
For those of you who live on the west coast or will be visiting this summer for the garden railways convention. There are several Shays on display in the northwest a couple even in operation. Right here in the Rose City (Portland OR) at the World Forestry Center there is one on display. As it is not fenced off and accessable to all it is a little worse for the wear but none the less it is there to look at and touch. Up further north near Seattle there is at least one operating Shay (may be a "Willie") on a tourist railway. If anyone would like further information I can get more details and post it on the list. Have a great steamin' day Salty CCBW
Re: Single Malt Scotch
In a message dated 01-02-07 13:49:39 EST, you write: I'll use single malt Scotch I am with you Walt!!! that gin has all the flavor of eating a pine tree. Now a good Scotch, that is something else. I wonder if one could fire a locomotive with that stuff. Gin not Scotch - wouldn't want to waste good Scotch!! :-) Salty CCBW
Re: Picayune Shay Pix
In a message dated 01-02-06 11:00:23 EST, you write: so have the means to go and space to take someone else interested. Salty very interested, can I reserve a seat. Salty CCBW
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Number 359
In a message dated 01-02-05 10:05:01 EST, you write: I've seen a lot of other steam oils at meets which I can't identify Ok, time for me to jump in here. While at DH01, which many of you attended, there was supplied steam oil. I noticed that there were a number of bottles of the dark very thick stuff as well as some that was lighter in color (light yellow and clear) on the tables also labled steam oil. I never did figure out what the difference was other than the lighter/ thinner stuff looked and felt more like heavy machine oil. I did not use any as I was a little reluctant to use the light weight stuff. Any one have any idea what that light stuff or was it a mislabled bottle of machine oil? Salty CCBW
Re: Dead leg lubricator?
In a message dated 01-01-27 20:52:02 EST, you write: Seems that I remember Kevin O'Connor using a dead leg on a locomotive but can't recall the details. Kevin used one on his Ruby, he showed it to me at DH01 and if I recall correctly it came from a Frank S (?). A very clean installation and was shown in one of the back issues of Steam in the Garden. Salty CCBW
Re: Coal Load
Here is a little trick that I used to simulate a coal load. I must attribute part of it to Vance Bass. In my haste to complete my Ruby bash before DH01 I cut a block of foam rubber to just fit inside my tender. I covered the top of the block with bath tub sealer (clear) then pressed it into a pile of kitty litter. I then removed all the excess that was hanging over the sides and let it dry. Next I sprayed several coats of gloss black paint on the kitty litter side followed by a light hazing of flat black. It looks pretty good if you follow the old 10' rule. Now when I install R/C I can hide the receiver under the foam block. Vance did something similar only he used real coal. There is a picture of it on Daves DH01 pictures, first one in the "people of DH". I don't know who the old F--t is that he says is me. Salty CCBW
Re: Characters??
We can live with it Don!! welcome to the list of Characters, and there are some real ones here Salty CCBW
Characters??
In a message dated 01-01-26 11:31:12 EST, you write: Several times in the past few months these characters have appeared in messages. To all you computer experts what the h--- are they?? Salty
Re: Silver Steel?
In a message dated 01-01-26 13:12:06 EST, you write: I note that some Aster S.S. balls for check valves etc can be picked up with a magnet--are they really S.S--will they corrode? There are varying compositions to stainless steel some of which are magnetic. As for the balls on a Aster without knowing the composition of the material it is difficult to say if they would rust. With the quality that Aster employes in the construct their locomotives I would doubt that they would use any material that would rust. This would be a question to pose to the manufacturer. Salty
Re: Characters??
Dave- It was not the brackets it was "nbsp" between them that I was wondering about? I guess it really doesn't matter but I was just really curious!! Salty
Re: Characters??
the characters appeared in a posting by Don P. on 1/26 looking for a tender for his Ruby. You are right Dave, I have more information than I need, but now I know. Did you ever figure out who those old characters were that were trying to pass themselves off as you and I at DH01? Salty
Re: Silver Steel?
(Jokingly said) If you didn't live down in that swampy area maybe you would not have trouble with rust on your Aster parts!! On the brighter side at least when you get rain it is warm, not like this cold s--t that we get here in Oregon. :-) You can always spot an Oregonian - they are the ones with moss growing on thier north side. We don't tan in the summer - we rust!! Salty CCBW
Re: Silver Steel?
Thanks to Tony, Clark, and all for the quick answer. I am familiar with drill rod, and its properties however have never heard of it being called "silver steel". I don't think that my little craftsman lathe will handle it unless I make a tool post grinder and machine it that way. Another question answered by all you experts on this list. Thanks again Salty
Silver Steel?
In K.N. Hassis' book Model Stationary Marine Steam Engines he calls out for the material to be used in manufacture of crankshafts and trunion pins on steam engines to be of "silver steel". Does anyone know what this is? Can one assume that he is refering to stainless steel? It seems logical to me that it would be stainless but then I do not know what "silver steel" is. A little help here would be appreicated from those into metalurgy. I can find no references to it. Salty
Re: Northeast Steam-up, Parking
In a message dated 01-01-21 10:07:26 EST, you write: There are no hotels/motels within walking distance of PLS. Phil - I am going to be wandering around the country aboout that time, Is there a place to park a 27' fifth wheel trailer? I would be interested in seeing this place and maybe running Rosey. Salty
Re: Punching simulated rivets
In a message dated 01-01-19 01:08:47 EST, you write: Any more great ideas floating around out there about easier rivet punching? You should have talked to me as I have also built a rivet punch. I had it at DH and showed it to a number of people. Essentially it is two rectangular brass plates with a spacer in between. The top plate has a grid of through holes spaced 1/4 inch apart. The bottom plate has dimples spaced to the same grid. I made a small round pin that has a ball on the end that just slips through the holes. I added a couple of hold down screws to keep the piece being stamped in place. (an after thought) As I built the thing on a drill press it is not extremely accurate but as those who saw my Ruby bash at DH can attest it works quite well. It has its limitations but I am working on a new and improved version that perhaps I make a few to market. Maybe something on the order of a small arbor press with some guage stops. Sallty
Re: dh thoughts ...
In a message dated 01-01-18 17:07:51 EST, you write: But I still wish there was a major steamup in the Northeast! Well Chuck I suppose you will just have to start one!! Salty
Re: Ruby Superheater/lubricator
First, I am not an expert by any sense of the word. These are some of my observations made while kit-bashing my Ruby. I have superheated my Ruby conversion (Rosey) with a single straight piece of stainless steel tubing through the flue. I tried a four turn coil but had a lot of difficulty getting the fire lit and keeping it going. Kevin O'Connor (sp?) used a coil in his that seemed to work very well, so I don't know what my problem was. I do not have any method to determine how much superheating takes place but I do know by observation that the superheater tube in mine gets cherry red when the fire is lit. I also added a boiler jacket and insulated all the exposed steam lines with cotton string. My last run at Diamondhead lasted over 30 minutes by keeping the speed down and the fire low. As for the lubricator. I noted in earlier runs that I was not using very much steam oil on each run. Less than 1/4 of the lubricator was filled with water. I enlarged the hole in the steam line slightly to increase the amount of oil and still use less than half. One observation I made at DH was that the gentleman who was running the 100 year old steam engines had no lubricator at all. All lubrication was by the water/condensation in the cylinders. This brings me to the conclusion that most lubricators in there present form provide adequate lubrication. Those with more knowledge (and there are a lot of those) may correct me in my thinking, but I am inclined to believe that not a lot of oil is required for adequate lubrication even with superheated steam. Time will tell if I destroy the cylinders on Rosey for lack of lubrication. Salty
Re: Bud Girls
In a message dated 01-01-16 21:59:44 EST, you write: They were going around to the various groupings of steamers advertising Bud Light for $1.50. Damn!! and I really like Bud Light! Salty
Re: more pix
In a message dated 01-01-17 00:58:08 EST, you write: Soni's rolling stock is just LGB stuff that's been expertly weathered! He gave a presentation at DH, (I don't remember the day as they all seemed to run together) explained and demonstrated how he weathered those cars. Great presentation. Salty
Re: Gas - the other kind
In a message dated 01-01-17 16:11:33 EST, you write: Trying to get rid of gas, (power a headlight?) Geoff- We older gents should really stick to the mild stuff like oatmeal, grits and toast. Our stomachs are no longer equipped to take the abuse of Cajun cooking. Thank God for malox and rol-aids. :-) Salty of the Senior Set
Re: DH Question: Reply
Chuck- What you will miss will be about three days of steaming and all the hard work the great people did in setting up the track!! As for me, (this was my first time) I got there on wed. night around midnight and stayed through sunday. I was pretty burned out at the end, but enjoyed every minute there. To say it was an incredible experience would be an understatement! To All others- Thank you all in attendance for making a memorable experience. Making your acquaintance was an extreme pleasure. See you all next year if not sooner. Salty
Re: Displacement lubricator size increase?
In a message dated 01-01-15 22:33:25 EST, you write: I know for a fact that there is at least some oil at the reservoir at the end of a long run, but I'm not quite sure if it's enough. Some is better than none though, right? What about the rest of you? Do you replace the condensate with steam oil on a long run? If so, what's your procedure, or have you increased your steam oil tank size? Trent- I, myself, only have two locos, both with displacment lubricators. A Cricket and a Kit-bashed Ruby. At the end of every run there is more oil than water in the lubricators. In fact I have enlarged the small hole in the lubricators slightly to increase the amount of oil they use and still there is a lot of oil left at the end of a run. It seems like a waste to not use this oil and just suck it out and throw it away. I do not think you have anything to worry about unless you are trying to run for a really long time. I am no expert on the subject but this has been my experience. Did we all have fun or what?? (I missed the Bud-girls all together) Salty
Re: footboards?
In a message dated 01-01-16 01:27:37 EST, you write: For those that have them, how did you make them? Wood or metal? If wood, how did you stain/seal them? How are they attached to the brackets? I used two layers of 1/16" maple that I cut on my table saw. On the bottom one I drilled two holes slightly smaller than an m2 nut, pressed the nuts into the holes and added a touch of C/A cement then laminated the two pieces together. I stained them with a large black felt tip pen and covered them with a clear flat finish. They attach with short screws and nothing shows from the top. The worked great for me. Salty
Re: Ruby Cab and Pilot
In a message dated 01-01-07 00:46:58 EST, you write: I'll have a few separate pilots or cabs, but mostly I'm taking pilot and cab combos, For those who have not seen this cab and pilot kit may I say this. I have built both the cab and pilot and they are installed on my Rosey (modified Ruby) The cab is very well designed and the fit of all the parts is incredable (sp?) as well as those of the pilot (cow catcher) I can not say enough good things about this product. I highly recommend them both. I do not have any financial interest in this venture, but I have to hand a well done to Vance. In old sailor talk BZ. Salty
LGB Track
In a message dated 01-01-06 01:11:18 EST, you write: (Is four feet radius right for LGB 1500? I think so.) LGB track radius is, 47.24" (600 mm) diameter for 11000,12 pieces for a circle; 60.24"(765 mm) for 15000, 12 pieces for a circle; and 96" for 16000, 16 pieces for a circle. They do not have a larger radius than the 16000 unless they have recently started making one. Salty
Re: Screwed up, fixed it!
Well friends I managed to get most everything repaired and Rosey, my Ruby conversion, back in operating condition. I ran it twice and had two very satisfying runs of 25 and 27 minutes on blocks. I imagine a little tweeking of the gas valve could extend the run a little. I am Ready for Diamondhead I removed all the paint from the smoke box door that got blistered and re-painted it, after which I baked it in the kitchen oven at 425 degrees for two hours. The paint job came out great and looks good. I also added a heat shield inside the smoke box door with a disk of .010 brass and some insulation. It seems to help keep the door a little cooler. The smoke box cover is still slightly blistered, but it is too much of a hassle to take it all apart to repaint this close to departure. I hope you all will not look to close or be too critical as this is my first try. All in all it was a good day steamin'!! Salty
Screwed up again! Mis-adventures of Salty
I finally got the last piece machined for my Ruby rear truck and put it all together. Ah ready for DH!!! Well maybe I had better fire it up on the bench to make sure every thing is working. After all the normal preperations to steam and firing up the boiler I noticed small bubbles forming in the paint on the smoke box door. This paint is supposed to withstand 1000 degrees --- Wrong!! well now I have to re-paint that. As steam pressure begin to build I noticed water leaking around one of the unions for the pressure guage. Attempts to tighten it failed to stop the leak and giving one more little tweek broke the tiny little tube to the gauge off right at the union with a resulting blast of steam into the cab. Now I have to repair that too. Of course I don't have another one of those unions so I must adapt another to fit. Well a little machine work here and there and solder (silver braze) the thing together. Oops I am out of gas! Off to get a refill. I have finally got the thing soldered together and will put things back together today and again try lighting this critter off again. It was not a great day! Hope today goes better Salty
Re: Inkjet decal paper
In a message dated 01-01-03 15:07:48 EST, you write: Well fellows, here maybe an answer to those questions on, "Where can I get custom decals for my engine or car?" There is a gentleman in Portland, named Terry Shellenberger, who runs the Battery Back Shop. The same guy that wrote the last two articles on battery power and remote control in Garden Railways. He has done some extensive expermentation on creating costum decals using an Alps (sp?) printer and from what he has shown at the local club meetings has been quite successful. Now weather he is going to produce them commerically I do not know as we have not crossed paths recently. One might look up his E-mail address in Garden Railways and inquire. At least you could probably inquire to his process. He was willing to share it with the club so I do not see why not others. Salty
Salty's Ruby Modification
Here is the latest picture of my Ruby modification. I think I will call her Rosey as I am from the Rose City (Portland OR). I still have a few things to do before it will be ready to run, but I should have it ready for Diamondhead. Enjoy!! Salty http://www.egroups.com/files/small_scale_steam_models/Saltys+Pictures/Rubyprog ress1.jpg
Re: Salty's Ruby Modification description
In a message dated 01-01-02 16:53:41 EST, you write: How about a detailed description of the mods? This was my first attempt at anything related to model engine modifications or building. It has been a long and trying experience with a lot of scrap produced before I finally got the parts I wanted. Many list members have had a lot of good advice and comments along the way. After Diamondhead I hope to sit down and write out what I did, how I did it and what I have learned from it all. When I finish I will submit it to Steam in the Garden and Garden Railways for thier use if they wish. I think trying to post it on this list would be a little too much and people would get bored with all the details. I really didn't follow any particular scale, just made parts that I thought looked good. I am not too happy with some yet and they will probably get replaced down the line. It has definitely been a learning experience. Salty
