Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Michael Martin]

There's another version of that image of Jeff's C-16 at
www.panyo.com/steamups/C-16.htm

Michael Martin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[steve boylan]

Jeff,

You wrote:

> It's true, Accucraft ain't perfect but if you check out the photo Mike Martin
> took of my C-16 recently at:
>
> http://www.panyo.com/dan/images/1Y170068.jpg
>
> then all oil consumption sins will be forgiven!!!  A beautiful thing!

Yow!  NICE PHOTO!

- - Steve

 

Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Clark Lord]

We agree with the beautiful thing concept.
http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/dscn0036.jpg
Steaming on the LVGRS modules this afternoon.

CBL

Jeffrey Williams wrote:
> 
> It's true, Accucraft ain't perfect but if you check out the photo Mike Martin
> took of my C-16 recently at:
> http://www.panyo.com/dan/images/1Y170068.jpg
> then all oil consumption sins will be forgiven!!!  A beautiful thing!
> Jeff 

Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Jeffrey Williams]

It's true, Accucraft ain't perfect but if you check out the photo Mike Martin
took of my C-16 recently at:

http://www.panyo.com/dan/images/1Y170068.jpg

then all oil consumption sins will be forgiven!!!  A beautiful thing!

Jeff

==

Clark Lord wrote:

> Great suggestions Jeffrey:  The engines I describe are all different.
> The first was a #42, the second was a #278 serial number 96, and the
> third was a Bumble Bee #268.  I will attempt to get the serial numbers
> of the other two over time.
>
> I don't like the straight through exhaust solution because of all the
> oil that will be ejected on to the finish of the engine.  However the
> restricted flow idea has merit.
>
> As for your engine I'm going to guess that the front spreader bar is not
> touching the pilot truck support frame.  It's the fact that the spreader
> (spacer / stiffener) bar on the front brake shoes rubs on that pilot
> truck frame which allows the oil to migrate out to the brake shoes.  If
> the pilot truck frame doesn't touch then the oil just moves to the pivot
> point and drips on the track center.
>
> You can see the part we removed at
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/c16spreaderbar.jpg
>
> Clark
>
> Jeffrey Williams wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to contradict the prevailing howl about C-16 oil consumption, but I
> > haven't seen the same degree of crisis with my C-16.  My unit is production
> > #83 of the # 278 style.  Although steam oil does eventually accumulate on
> > the pilot truck pivot and drip occasionally in the middle of the ties
> > (after a 45 minute run, after all), it doesn't seem to be spreading on the
> > rails to a great extent.  It may be that there is some variability on the
> > tube ID connecting the steam inlet to the cylinders to the reservoir or the
> > restriction in the steam fittings, so that the oil consumption on my unit
> > is less that on others.
> >
> > Of those on list experiencing high oil consumption, what are the production
> > serial numbers and are you running #42, #268 or #278 models?  Maybe here's
> > a thread we can pull to discover the cause or connection to a particular
> > production run.
> >
> > I might suggest alternate strategies to reduce oil spread:
> >
> > 1.  Short term solution - replace exhaust tube with a straight thru, rather
> > than crimped/baffled tube so that the oil blows straight out the stack.
> > You can thread a 1/8" dia tube (available at hobby shops) to M3 x 0.5
> > thread with only a bit of effort and make one of your own.
> >
> > 2.  Remove the lubricator tube fitting and insert a length of wire into the
> > tube to restrict the flow.  Try different diameters of piano wire
> > (available at model airplane shops) until restriction meets your needs for
> > oil consuption.  This would be a lot easier than installing and sealing a
> > needle valve and once set, would not require further adjustment.  This
> > technique is used to balance pressure and flow on hydrostatic bearing
> > spindles on ultra-precision machine tools.
> >
> > 3. Risky - crimp the tube to restrict flow.
> >
> > 4.  What is the viscosity of the steam oil you are using?  Maybe heavier
> > (higher viscosity) oil would help the problem.
> >
> > ===
> >
> > Clark Lord wrote:
> >
> > > Howdy all.  A short background.  Here at the house we have now had three
> > > different Accucraft C-16's operated.  The first was from Seattle during
> > > my annual steamup.  Much to my and the owners surprise and
> > > consternation, the engine was leaking steam oil out the piston rod
> > > packing glan so bad that in one lap the steam oil tank was emptied and
> > > the contents wound up on railhead of my outside track loop.  The car
> > > wheels then spread the oil out evenly.  It was so bad that any engine
> > > that ran the rest of the weekend slipped it's drivers with ease.
> > >
> > > Well time and weather cleaned the track and all was well.  Enter the
> > > second and third C-16's purchased by local Las Vegas Live Steamers.
> > > Both of those engines had their first run on my track.  Again oil was
> > > coming out in gross quantities.  On these engines the excess oil was
> > > winding up in the smoke box, draining out the hole in the bottom,
> > > dripping on the pilot truck pivot arm, working it's way back to the
> > > pivot pin, traveling across the front brake stiffening rod and onto the
> > > brake shoes and then directly onto the rail head.
> > 

Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Clark Lord]

Great suggestions Jeffrey:  The engines I describe are all different. 
The first was a #42, the second was a #278 serial number 96, and the
third was a Bumble Bee #268.  I will attempt to get the serial numbers
of the other two over time.

I don't like the straight through exhaust solution because of all the
oil that will be ejected on to the finish of the engine.  However the
restricted flow idea has merit.

As for your engine I'm going to guess that the front spreader bar is not
touching the pilot truck support frame.  It's the fact that the spreader
(spacer / stiffener) bar on the front brake shoes rubs on that pilot
truck frame which allows the oil to migrate out to the brake shoes.  If
the pilot truck frame doesn't touch then the oil just moves to the pivot
point and drips on the track center.

You can see the part we removed at
http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/c16spreaderbar.jpg

Clark


Jeffrey Williams wrote:
> 
> Sorry to contradict the prevailing howl about C-16 oil consumption, but I
> haven't seen the same degree of crisis with my C-16.  My unit is production
> #83 of the # 278 style.  Although steam oil does eventually accumulate on
> the pilot truck pivot and drip occasionally in the middle of the ties
> (after a 45 minute run, after all), it doesn't seem to be spreading on the
> rails to a great extent.  It may be that there is some variability on the
> tube ID connecting the steam inlet to the cylinders to the reservoir or the
> restriction in the steam fittings, so that the oil consumption on my unit
> is less that on others.
> 
> Of those on list experiencing high oil consumption, what are the production
> serial numbers and are you running #42, #268 or #278 models?  Maybe here's
> a thread we can pull to discover the cause or connection to a particular
> production run.
> 
> I might suggest alternate strategies to reduce oil spread:
> 
> 1.  Short term solution - replace exhaust tube with a straight thru, rather
> than crimped/baffled tube so that the oil blows straight out the stack.
> You can thread a 1/8" dia tube (available at hobby shops) to M3 x 0.5
> thread with only a bit of effort and make one of your own.
> 
> 2.  Remove the lubricator tube fitting and insert a length of wire into the
> tube to restrict the flow.  Try different diameters of piano wire
> (available at model airplane shops) until restriction meets your needs for
> oil consuption.  This would be a lot easier than installing and sealing a
> needle valve and once set, would not require further adjustment.  This
> technique is used to balance pressure and flow on hydrostatic bearing
> spindles on ultra-precision machine tools.
> 
> 3. Risky - crimp the tube to restrict flow.
> 
> 4.  What is the viscosity of the steam oil you are using?  Maybe heavier
> (higher viscosity) oil would help the problem.
> 
> ===
> 
> Clark Lord wrote:
> 
> > Howdy all.  A short background.  Here at the house we have now had three
> > different Accucraft C-16's operated.  The first was from Seattle during
> > my annual steamup.  Much to my and the owners surprise and
> > consternation, the engine was leaking steam oil out the piston rod
> > packing glan so bad that in one lap the steam oil tank was emptied and
> > the contents wound up on railhead of my outside track loop.  The car
> > wheels then spread the oil out evenly.  It was so bad that any engine
> > that ran the rest of the weekend slipped it's drivers with ease.
> >
> > Well time and weather cleaned the track and all was well.  Enter the
> > second and third C-16's purchased by local Las Vegas Live Steamers.
> > Both of those engines had their first run on my track.  Again oil was
> > coming out in gross quantities.  On these engines the excess oil was
> > winding up in the smoke box, draining out the hole in the bottom,
> > dripping on the pilot truck pivot arm, working it's way back to the
> > pivot pin, traveling across the front brake stiffening rod and onto the
> > brake shoes and then directly onto the rail head.
> >
> > If you wanted to make an oil to track delivery system this was the very
> > best.  In one lap around the track you could coat the entire track with
> > an even film of steam oil.  If we are having this problem here with 3
> > different C16's I'm sure that there are many more out there doing the
> > very same thing.
> >
> > Lou Banning, owner of the #2 C-16 to run here, and I have been studying
> > on this problem and yesterday we found a partial fix.  Lou removed the
> > stretcher rod that goes between the front brake shoes leaving the brake
> > hanger just dangling.  We th

Re: Another view on Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Jeffrey Williams]

Sorry to contradict the prevailing howl about C-16 oil consumption, but I
haven't seen the same degree of crisis with my C-16.  My unit is production
#83 of the # 278 style.  Although steam oil does eventually accumulate on
the pilot truck pivot and drip occasionally in the middle of the ties
(after a 45 minute run, after all), it doesn't seem to be spreading on the
rails to a great extent.  It may be that there is some variability on the
tube ID connecting the steam inlet to the cylinders to the reservoir or the
restriction in the steam fittings, so that the oil consumption on my unit
is less that on others.

Of those on list experiencing high oil consumption, what are the production
serial numbers and are you running #42, #268 or #278 models?  Maybe here's
a thread we can pull to discover the cause or connection to a particular
production run.

I might suggest alternate strategies to reduce oil spread:

1.  Short term solution - replace exhaust tube with a straight thru, rather
than crimped/baffled tube so that the oil blows straight out the stack.
You can thread a 1/8" dia tube (available at hobby shops) to M3 x 0.5
thread with only a bit of effort and make one of your own.

2.  Remove the lubricator tube fitting and insert a length of wire into the
tube to restrict the flow.  Try different diameters of piano wire
(available at model airplane shops) until restriction meets your needs for
oil consuption.  This would be a lot easier than installing and sealing a
needle valve and once set, would not require further adjustment.  This
technique is used to balance pressure and flow on hydrostatic bearing
spindles on ultra-precision machine tools.

3. Risky - crimp the tube to restrict flow.

4.  What is the viscosity of the steam oil you are using?  Maybe heavier
(higher viscosity) oil would help the problem.


===

Clark Lord wrote:

> Howdy all.  A short background.  Here at the house we have now had three
> different Accucraft C-16's operated.  The first was from Seattle during
> my annual steamup.  Much to my and the owners surprise and
> consternation, the engine was leaking steam oil out the piston rod
> packing glan so bad that in one lap the steam oil tank was emptied and
> the contents wound up on railhead of my outside track loop.  The car
> wheels then spread the oil out evenly.  It was so bad that any engine
> that ran the rest of the weekend slipped it's drivers with ease.
>
> Well time and weather cleaned the track and all was well.  Enter the
> second and third C-16's purchased by local Las Vegas Live Steamers.
> Both of those engines had their first run on my track.  Again oil was
> coming out in gross quantities.  On these engines the excess oil was
> winding up in the smoke box, draining out the hole in the bottom,
> dripping on the pilot truck pivot arm, working it's way back to the
> pivot pin, traveling across the front brake stiffening rod and onto the
> brake shoes and then directly onto the rail head.
>
> If you wanted to make an oil to track delivery system this was the very
> best.  In one lap around the track you could coat the entire track with
> an even film of steam oil.  If we are having this problem here with 3
> different C16's I'm sure that there are many more out there doing the
> very same thing.
>
> Lou Banning, owner of the #2 C-16 to run here, and I have been studying
> on this problem and yesterday we found a partial fix.  Lou removed the
> stretcher rod that goes between the front brake shoes leaving the brake
> hanger just dangling.  We then ran the engine for 1 and 1/2 hours (3
> different runs) on the Las Vegas Garden Railway Society's modular
> railroad Christmas time setup in the Sprint Telephone Co. main office
> lobby.  All the oil was now being deposited in the center line of the
> track instead on the rail.
>
> We were very pleased with this development as both steam and electric
> trains are run on the modules.  We didn't have to clean 200 feet of
> track after every run now.
>
> The bad news is the engine is still using excessive steam oil.  My guess
> is that the pickup tube in the running board oil tank reservoir is
> placed too low in the tank which allows straight steam oil to be
> discharged into the dead leg connecting line until the oil level is even
> with the outlet tube.  At this time it begins to regulate normally.  I
> suspect that when the regulation point is reached, most of the oil has
> already been discharged into the connecting line, gone through the
> cylinders, collected on the inside of the smoke box and drained out and
> onto the track via the route described above.
>
> So remove the stretcher rod between the front brake shoes and the rail
> oiling problem will go away.  If you want the brake shoes to show, just
&

Re: Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Phil. Paskos]

I'm sure I'm oversimplifying the problem. But I'd look for a way to put a
restricter plug or tube in line to slow down the oil distribution.

Respectfully;

Phil.P.


(much snipped)
> Now to figure out what to do about the excessive oil usage.
>
> Also be warned that any C-16 that intends to run on my track will have
> to have the stretcher rod removed before running here.  A clean track is
> a happy track.
>
> Best Wishes for the Holidays Ya'll
>
> Clark
>
 

Re: Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Jim Curry]

Make sure those boys go last on the weight pulling contest!

Jim
 

Re: Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Mike Eorgoff]

Could someone in the know inform the Diamondhead Chief Enforcer about this
so we don't spend the weekend wondering where the traction  went.

Mike Eorgoff
near Chicago

- Original Message -
From: "Clark Lord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 11:58 AM
Subject: Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage


>
> Howdy all.  A short background.  Here at the house we have now had three
> different Accucraft C-16's operated.  The first was from Seattle during
> my annual steamup.  Much to my and the owners surprise and
> consternation, the engine was leaking steam oil out the piston rod
> packing glan so bad that in one lap the steam oil tank was emptied and
> the contents wound up on railhead of my outside track loop.  The car
> wheels then spread the oil out evenly.  It was so bad that any engine
> that ran the rest of the weekend slipped it's drivers with ease.
>
> Well time and weather cleaned the track and all was well.  Enter the
> second and third C-16's purchased by local Las Vegas Live Steamers.
> Both of those engines had their first run on my track.  Again oil was
> coming out in gross quantities.  On these engines the excess oil was
> winding up in the smoke box, draining out the hole in the bottom,
> dripping on the pilot truck pivot arm, working it's way back to the
> pivot pin, traveling across the front brake stiffening rod and onto the
> brake shoes and then directly onto the rail head.
>
> If you wanted to make an oil to track delivery system this was the very
> best.  In one lap around the track you could coat the entire track with
> an even film of steam oil.  If we are having this problem here with 3
> different C16's I'm sure that there are many more out there doing the
> very same thing.
>
> Lou Banning, owner of the #2 C-16 to run here, and I have been studying
> on this problem and yesterday we found a partial fix.  Lou removed the
> stretcher rod that goes between the front brake shoes leaving the brake
> hanger just dangling.  We then ran the engine for 1 and 1/2 hours (3
> different runs) on the Las Vegas Garden Railway Society's modular
> railroad Christmas time setup in the Sprint Telephone Co. main office
> lobby.  All the oil was now being deposited in the center line of the
> track instead on the rail.
>
> We were very pleased with this development as both steam and electric
> trains are run on the modules.  We didn't have to clean 200 feet of
> track after every run now.
>
> The bad news is the engine is still using excessive steam oil.  My guess
> is that the pickup tube in the running board oil tank reservoir is
> placed too low in the tank which allows straight steam oil to be
> discharged into the dead leg connecting line until the oil level is even
> with the outlet tube.  At this time it begins to regulate normally.  I
> suspect that when the regulation point is reached, most of the oil has
> already been discharged into the connecting line, gone through the
> cylinders, collected on the inside of the smoke box and drained out and
> onto the track via the route described above.
>
> So remove the stretcher rod between the front brake shoes and the rail
> oiling problem will go away.  If you want the brake shoes to show, just
> put a nut on the back and attach the shoe to the hanger without the rod.
>
> Now to figure out what to do about the excessive oil usage.
>
> Also be warned that any C-16 that intends to run on my track will have
> to have the stretcher rod removed before running here.  A clean track is
> a happy track.
>
> Best Wishes for the Holidays Ya'll
>
> Clark
 

Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Clark Lord]

Howdy all.  A short background.  Here at the house we have now had three
different Accucraft C-16's operated.  The first was from Seattle during
my annual steamup.  Much to my and the owners surprise and
consternation, the engine was leaking steam oil out the piston rod
packing glan so bad that in one lap the steam oil tank was emptied and
the contents wound up on railhead of my outside track loop.  The car
wheels then spread the oil out evenly.  It was so bad that any engine
that ran the rest of the weekend slipped it's drivers with ease.

Well time and weather cleaned the track and all was well.  Enter the
second and third C-16's purchased by local Las Vegas Live Steamers. 
Both of those engines had their first run on my track.  Again oil was
coming out in gross quantities.  On these engines the excess oil was
winding up in the smoke box, draining out the hole in the bottom,
dripping on the pilot truck pivot arm, working it's way back to the
pivot pin, traveling across the front brake stiffening rod and onto the
brake shoes and then directly onto the rail head.

If you wanted to make an oil to track delivery system this was the very
best.  In one lap around the track you could coat the entire track with
an even film of steam oil.  If we are having this problem here with 3
different C16's I'm sure that there are many more out there doing the
very same thing.

Lou Banning, owner of the #2 C-16 to run here, and I have been studying
on this problem and yesterday we found a partial fix.  Lou removed the
stretcher rod that goes between the front brake shoes leaving the brake
hanger just dangling.  We then ran the engine for 1 and 1/2 hours (3
different runs) on the Las Vegas Garden Railway Society's modular
railroad Christmas time setup in the Sprint Telephone Co. main office
lobby.  All the oil was now being deposited in the center line of the
track instead on the rail.

We were very pleased with this development as both steam and electric
trains are run on the modules.  We didn't have to clean 200 feet of
track after every run now.

The bad news is the engine is still using excessive steam oil.  My guess
is that the pickup tube in the running board oil tank reservoir is
placed too low in the tank which allows straight steam oil to be
discharged into the dead leg connecting line until the oil level is even
with the outlet tube.  At this time it begins to regulate normally.  I
suspect that when the regulation point is reached, most of the oil has
already been discharged into the connecting line, gone through the
cylinders, collected on the inside of the smoke box and drained out and
onto the track via the route described above.

So remove the stretcher rod between the front brake shoes and the rail
oiling problem will go away.  If you want the brake shoes to show, just
put a nut on the back and attach the shoe to the hanger without the rod.

Now to figure out what to do about the excessive oil usage.

Also be warned that any C-16 that intends to run on my track will have
to have the stretcher rod removed before running here.  A clean track is
a happy track.

Best Wishes for the Holidays Ya'll

Clark 

Re: lsbandb: R/C on the Accucraft C-16 Steamer

[VR Bass]

> And while I'm on the subject of the C-16, I think someone (Vance?) found
some small tools for the little screws and allen keys.  Where can they be
bought?

Clark Lord suggested using Allen-head screws for sockets, and they do work 
very well.  I screwed one into a dowel and then turned it down so it would 
reach into small places, which helps.  

I also bought some "real" metric nut-drivers at Caboose Hobbies when I was 
there last month.  They were around $5 each, IIRC.

-vance-

Keep in mind that, before plastics, only rich people could afford to have poor taste.
-- Don Featherstone, creator of the plastic lawn flamingo 

Accucraft C-16 R/C

[Pthornto]

Being fairly idle this week, I managed to complete the installation of two servos on 
my Accu C-16 and took it outside for a test.

It was a great feeling when I turned on the tramsitter, moved the lever to put it in 
gear, and it moved slowly off - spitting great gobs of oil and water, as usual.  Much 
better than manual operation.

However, I quickly discovered that I had no antenna range.  I had attached the wire to 
the tender body, hoping the track would act as a good pickup (the RCS solution, though 
this is an old AM Digital Proportional set.)  But as my track is on the earth, I 
figure that I was just grounding it.  Funnily enough, with just the tender on the 
track, there is plenty of range - I wonder why the engine makes a difference?  Anyone 
have any ideas?

Fortunately I set up the transmitter so I could turn it off.  Putting the engine into 
gear and turning off when she was moving cut out the glitching until I turned the 
transmitter back on!

After a few minutes running I noticed steam leaking around both valve chests.  I 
tightened up the nuts with pliers.   I've heard most of them have this problem.

And while I'm on the subject of the C-16, I think someone (Vance?) found some small 
tools for the little screws and allen keys.  Where can they be bought?

   Pete
 

(Fwd) Accucraft C-16 radio control news

[VR Bass]

NEWS FLASH!  Pete Thornton has made a breakthrough in installing radio 
control gear into the Accucraft C-16!

-vance-

--- Forwarded message follows ---
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date sent:  Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:44:52 EST
Subject:lsbandb: Re:  photo op
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I'm halfway through converting to r/c, and I'm taking lots of pictures.  The 
tender comes apart with the 4 big brass corner bolts - and the floor is 
separate, so putting the receiver and batteries in there turned out to be 
very easy.  I thought I'd have to cut the top of the water tank, but no need. 
 I bought extenders for the servo cables, and a mini-servo with 36 oz-in of 
force for the Johnson bar, so I should be done next week.

I'm thinking of writing it up for SitG, if the pics come out.

Pete

--- End of forwarded message --- 

couplers on Accucraft C-16

[VR Bass]

There's good news and bad news regarding the couplers on the Accucraft C-
16.  The bad news is that they're about 1/4" too low, and it turns out that 
getting the coupler pocket off the buffer beam is @#$% near impossible.  
You'll need a minuscule nut driver, an magnifying visor, good light and some 
luck from what I can tell.

The good news is that the knuckles are easily exchangable with Kadees.  
Luckily, I had one of those knuckles that are offset upwards (it's one of the 
83X series, but I don't remember which one).  That knuckle comes out at just 
the right height when mounted in the Kadee pocket.  You have to drill out the 
hole in the shank to 17/64" to fit over the post, but otherwise it's just a 
screwdriver upgrade.

So, if you have or are getting a C-16 and need to pull rolling stock with an 
accurate 1:20.3 coupler height, that's a simple solution while you search for a 
place to buy that tiny metric nutdriver.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: Accucraft C-16 notes

[Bob Wescott]

Vance,

You wrote:
-- the safety is completely inaccessible as far as I can tell!  This >is not 
a good thing, since you can't check your safety when you're >raising steam.  
I was alarmed to see that mine finally blew at 70
>psig, though the manual says it's set for 55 psi and that I should >keep my 
>hands off it.  Well, I have to, but I don't like it.  I'm a >bit concerned 
>by a loco with a safety that can't be tested and may be >set 20% off 
>target, and a clock that may be 20% off.


My steam dome was very tight, screwed off like the sand dome. I have a 
3x5x1/8" sheet of Viton that I used to get a no mar grip. The pop is down in 
a sockit, could not get to it to adjust. The cap comes off the pop, but will 
need a 'tool' to remove to adjust. BTW, mine blew at 65 psig.





>  This is NOT an optional tool -- you MUST have one or you can't get >any 
>oil into the @!#% tiny filler tube.  Steam oil is so thick that >the first 
>drop hits the neck and the surface tension keeps it there >longer than the 
>half-life of Strontium 90.
>Meanwhile, the little syringe they give you to suck water out of the 
> >lubricator is totally useless, since you can only get it about 2mm >into 
>the neck.



   This syringe is for filling only, put it into the tank and wipe off after 
filling. I have a 'LUER-LOCK' needle that I put on it to suck out the water. 
It's about 1/16". The tank holds about 20cc of oil.






>Bob mentioned a loose exhaust tube.  Mine was loose, too, but I was >able 
>to tighten it from the top of the smokebox, since the top is >flattened.  I 
>would like to hear your reaction to the chuff with and >without the 
>resonator tube.  The smokebox arrangement on this engine >seems very 
>effective, acoustically, so I think it possible that a >secondary tube 
>might actually diminish the chuff.  Try it both ways, >and let us know, 
>please.



This smokebox is fully insulated, even the door. My tube is installed 
into the bottom as best I could. This maybe causing the burner
roughness, might need to enlarge the birds mouth for more flow. when the 
door is open it's not so bad. Last night after the sunset I was able to make 
the flame shoot out the door three inches. Must be careful not to set the 
gas too high. When the replacement tube arrives I will do some more testing.





>Another thing to look out for is the sander pipes.  One of mine was so 
> >long that I think it must have been dragging the track.  I was blaming 
> >the derailments at track joints (esp. when backing) on the hasty 
> >tracklaying and the lack of leading wheels in reverse, but it didn't 
> >make sense to me that the lead truck would have much effect, since it 
> >just swings loose on its pivot.  After putting it up on blocks again, >I 
>noticed the absurdly long sander pipe, and cut it off.  Haven't >tried 
>running it again on the track to see if that cleared up the >derailment 
>problem, but it would certainly have caused trouble at some >point.

>It would be a good thing to devise a centering mechanism for the lead 
> >truck so that it actually did some leading, rather than simply >dangling 
>in the breeze.



   My lead truck was picking one frog, going to go over that one with a 
Dremmel. A stiffer spring pressing the truck down might also help. It will 
be Sunday before I get to run next. Will start out on blocks this time.





>Since I'm running on my workbench, I put a piece of thin cotton cloth >over 
>the stack to keep the oil from getting all over my other >projects.  This 
>produced a much more visible steam plume, even through >the cloth!  I am 
>going to experiment some with a turbulator for the >spark arrestor in an 
>effort to replicate this effect.



While running I stopped her several times and restarted. When she 
started the first few chuff's were very pronounced and the steam was blown 
three feet in the air. VERY COOL!!!


Bob Wescott

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
 

Accucraft C-16 notes

[VR Bass]

Bob,

Thanks for the notes about the 268 version of the live steam C-16.  I was 
interested to read that this one has a removable steam dome for access to the 
safety valve.  The No. 42 does not -- the safety is completely inaccessible as 
far as I can tell!  This is not a good thing, since you can't check your safety 
when you're raising steam.  I was alarmed to see that mine finally blew at 70 
psig, though the manual says it's set for 55 psi and that I should keep my 
hands off it.  Well, I have to, but I don't like it.  I'm a bit concerned by a loco 
with a safety that can't be tested and may be set 20% off target, and a clock 
that may be 20% off.

I put almost another hour on mine tonight, both on blocks and on track hastily 
laid on the garage floor.  Herewith, some notes from tonight's session:

I notice that the owner's manual lists an accessory called an "oil pump".  This 
is NOT an optional tool -- you MUST have one or you can't get any oil into the 
@!#% tiny filler tube.  Steam oil is so thick that the first drop hits the neck and 
the surface tension keeps it there longer than the half-life of Strontium 90.  
Meanwhile, the little syringe they give you to suck water out of the lubricator is 
totally useless, since you can only get it about 2mm into the neck.  On the 
Ruby, the water-sucking situation was even worse, so I took some 3/32" 
copper tubing I had in the non-ferrous and made a 3-inch-long extension for 
the syringe.  I drilled the tip 3/32" and glued in the tubing and made a great 
sucker which also works very nicely as an oil pump for filling the C-16' tank.

Bob mentioned a loose exhaust tube.  Mine was loose, too, but I was able to 
tighten it from the top of the smokebox, since the top is flattened.  I would like 
to hear your reaction to the chuff with and without the resonator tube.  The 
smokebox arrangement on this engine seems very effective, acoustically, so I 
think it possible that a secondary tube might actually diminish the chuff.  Try it 
both ways, and let us know, please.

On that topic, watch the engine carefully the first few times you run 
(preferably on blocks).  I found several things that started off loose or became 
loose after some running and heat/cool cycling, including the valve chest and 
cylinder covers and the body of the blowdown valve, which seeped onto the 
cab floor.

Another thing to look out for is the sander pipes.  One of mine was so long 
that I think it must have been dragging the track.  I was blaming the 
derailments at track joints (esp. when backing) on the hasty tracklaying and 
the lack of leading wheels in reverse, but it didn't make sense to me that the 
lead truck would have much effect, since it just swings loose on its pivot.  After 
putting it up on blocks again, I noticed the absurdly long sander pipe, and cut 
it off.  Haven't tried running it again on the track to see if that cleared up the 
derailment problem, but it would certainly have caused trouble at some point.  
I wonder about the air hose on the tender, too.  It's a great touch for a fine-
scale model, but overkill for this one, and probably a source of derailment at 
some point when it snags a switch frog or a twig between the ties.

It would be a good thing to devise a centering mechanism for the lead truck so 
that it actually did some leading, rather than simply dangling in the breeze.

Another small issue is that when the safety weeps, it drops water directly onto 
the valve motion and, worse, right between the second and third drivers.  This 
can't be good for traction, and will probably require some kind of drip shield or 
diverter.

Since I'm running on my workbench, I put a piece of thin cotton cloth over the 
stack to keep the oil from getting all over my other projects.  This produced a 
much more visible steam plume, even through the cloth!  I am going to 
experiment some with a turbulator for the spark arrestor in an effort to 
replicate this effect.  The prototypical diamond stacks had one sort of diverter 
or another, which moved the exhaust stream in a spiral path, giving the 
cinders time to to lose momentum and drop out of the stream.  I hope to be 
able to cool the exhaust a little with a similar device, and slow it down with the 
screen a prototypical arrestor would have had, to get some more 
condensation above the stack.

One cool thing I noticed is that, after a couple of runs, there's enough steam 
oil collected in the smokebox that you get a terrific plume of actual smoke the 
next time you fire up.  Very cool!  Almost makes me consider one of those 
smoke generators like the SteamLines Shay had.

Tonight's run was very good -- smooth and trouble-free.  I got tired of standing 
around in an increasingly humid garage after 30 minutes into the second 
boiler load and shut it down.  This is going to be a RUNNING engine, good for 
some serious hauling and switching, with a minimum of downtime for 
servicing.  Hot dog!

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Ba

Re: Accucraft C-16

[Gary Broeder]

Vance, Eric and others,

Regarding the slip of drivers on code 215 NS rail or any other material or
size rail: The main problem, when there is one , is  the  material of the
driver or tire. Stainless steel drivers seem to slip more than others. My
Pannier 0-6-0 with such drivers would slip easier than my Steamlines 0-6-0
with cast iron drivers.  Some folks say aluminum rail is worse. Seems to
depend on how much oil is on the rail. Some rail has a flat top resulting is
less of a contact patch than others. Other rails have a radius on the top,
as do prototype rails, resulting in a larger contact patch which should
improve traction.

Regarding RC. I took out the standard RC in my Fowler some years ago do to
the throttle wag  from glitching. It worked much better with manual control.
I finally had a chance to try the RCS system when I installed one in a
friend's Daylight. I was quite impressed. The system works really well with
zero glitching. "It only speaks when spoken to."

The programmable limits on both throttle and reverser are a bonus. For the
antenna I screwed the shortened wire to the aluminum coach body where the
Receiver and battery are located. The coach is insulated from the track by
delrin ( plastic) side frames. I tried other antenna arrangements but this
seemed best.

I was so impressed I bought another  and will install it in my Fowler.
Although I do prefer  "hands on" it is a bit of fun to have RC in at least 1
loco.

GaryB
 

Re: Accucraft C-16

[Eric Maschwitz]

Vance-

I know three people with Accucraft C-16's two of them have installed RC gear
the other (Harlan Barr)  kept his manual.  One thing that both people with
RC did was drop a sealed gel-cel battery directly into the water in the
tender to power the RC gear.  RC in the C-16 is tricky. I have yet to see
the Johnson bar get successfully controlled by a servo.  The problem that
both folks had was that J-bar would periodically get jammed after the engine
heated up.  One guy was also having huge problems with glitching.  The
glitching combined with the easily jammable J-bar resulted in great
frustration as the loco would screech to a halt in the middle of the run.
Both folks would end up running the engine by throttle control only.  The
C-16 runs good though, and it is strong -- easily pulling 20+ cars on level
track.  The only other draw back is that the drivers easily slip on certain
types of track.  I can tell you that code 215 nickel silver track wont
provide much grip.  It sure is a good looking engine though.  I'm thinking I
might get one myself.

-Eric M.

> From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 22:23:08 -0600
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Accucraft C-16

> I got my live steam Accucraft C-16 last night (finally!).  It's the old-timer,
> No. 
> 42, and beautifully done.  But I do have some questions and observations I
> would like to share with you.
> 
> I note that the footplate extension (that flap between the cab floor and the
> tender) is hinged at the bottom of the side floors, rather than the middle
> well 
> where the firebox it.  In other words, it does not extend over to the tender,
> but 
> just hangs down about 1/2" too high, does nothing useful, and probably gets in
> the way of various operations in the cab.  Are they all attached this way?
> What have you done about it?  Looks like I'll need to remove the pivot rod,
> drill 
> out the cab mounting brackets at their bottoms, and put in some kind of boss
> for the rod to go through.  Cotter pins come to mind.
> 
> The headlight looks very nice, but since it's not electrified, they left out
> the 
> bulb, so there's a black hole in the center of the reflector.  I removed the
> headlight and bracket (4 screws), then removed the headlight from the bracket
> (another 4 screws) and then removed the bottom plate from the headlight
> casting (two more screws).  Seems like it would be relatively easy to insert a
> yellow LED and a tiny battery in there, with a micro switch out the bottom.
> Has anyone done this already, and if so would you share recommendations?
> 
> The tender is huge, with lots of room for water and a hand pump and/or R/C
> gear.  Except that they seem to have brazed the whole thing together and you
> can't get into the body unless you cut a hole up through the floor.  Before I
> remove the frame and trucks to attempt this, do we have any other alternatives
> to getting into the tender body that I haven't discovered?
> 
> Putting R/C in this one is going to be a big job, it appears.  In addition to
> the 
> inaccessible tender tank, the coal bin is filled with a really large gas tank
> (which is good) so there is no room for R/C gear there (too bad).  The cab is
> stuffed full of other appliances and the crew floors are higher than the
> footplate, so there's even less room in there than in the Ruby for servos, let
> alone a battery pack and RX.  And the steam regulator handle sticks way out
> the back of the cab. which is going to make placing a servo ... um ...
> interesting.  The instructions, which I suspect were not written by the loco's
> designer, mention that it wasn't designed with R/C in mind (duh!) and that
> installing R/C will take some "ingenuity".  Yep.
> 
> You won't believe this one.  The coupler height is low, set at the Kadee "G"-
> scale gauge height.  What?!?  Looks like some hacking of the rear tender
> beam will be in order.  Maybe I should just go for all link-and-pin
> couplers
> 
> Now, I've got to get all those built-up boxcar kits painted, finish the
> caboose, 
> etc. etc., in addition to "improving" the loco to meet my standards.  If they
> would have only asked me first, they could have saved me so much trouble!  :-)
> 
> Haven't run it yet, so I can't comment on running characteristics, but it was
> obviously fired and run some so I trust it will be in pretty good adjustment.
> 
> regards,
> -vance-
> 
> Vance Bass   
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
> 
 

Accucraft C-16

[VR Bass]

I got my live steam Accucraft C-16 last night (finally!).  It's the old-timer, No. 
42, and beautifully done.  But I do have some questions and observations I 
would like to share with you.

I note that the footplate extension (that flap between the cab floor and the 
tender) is hinged at the bottom of the side floors, rather than the middle well 
where the firebox it.  In other words, it does not extend over to the tender, but 
just hangs down about 1/2" too high, does nothing useful, and probably gets in 
the way of various operations in the cab.  Are they all attached this way?  
What have you done about it?  Looks like I'll need to remove the pivot rod, drill 
out the cab mounting brackets at their bottoms, and put in some kind of boss 
for the rod to go through.  Cotter pins come to mind. 

The headlight looks very nice, but since it's not electrified, they left out the 
bulb, so there's a black hole in the center of the reflector.  I removed the 
headlight and bracket (4 screws), then removed the headlight from the bracket 
(another 4 screws) and then removed the bottom plate from the headlight 
casting (two more screws).  Seems like it would be relatively easy to insert a 
yellow LED and a tiny battery in there, with a micro switch out the bottom.  
Has anyone done this already, and if so would you share recommendations?

The tender is huge, with lots of room for water and a hand pump and/or R/C 
gear.  Except that they seem to have brazed the whole thing together and you 
can't get into the body unless you cut a hole up through the floor.  Before I 
remove the frame and trucks to attempt this, do we have any other alternatives 
to getting into the tender body that I haven't discovered?

Putting R/C in this one is going to be a big job, it appears.  In addition to the 
inaccessible tender tank, the coal bin is filled with a really large gas tank 
(which is good) so there is no room for R/C gear there (too bad).  The cab is 
stuffed full of other appliances and the crew floors are higher than the 
footplate, so there's even less room in there than in the Ruby for servos, let 
alone a battery pack and RX.  And the steam regulator handle sticks way out 
the back of the cab. which is going to make placing a servo ... um ... 
interesting.  The instructions, which I suspect were not written by the loco's 
designer, mention that it wasn't designed with R/C in mind (duh!) and that 
installing R/C will take some "ingenuity".  Yep.

You won't believe this one.  The coupler height is low, set at the Kadee "G"-
scale gauge height.  What?!?  Looks like some hacking of the rear tender 
beam will be in order.  Maybe I should just go for all link-and-pin couplers

Now, I've got to get all those built-up boxcar kits painted, finish the caboose, 
etc. etc., in addition to "improving" the loco to meet my standards.  If they 
would have only asked me first, they could have saved me so much trouble!  :-)

Haven't run it yet, so I can't comment on running characteristics, but it was 
obviously fired and run some so I trust it will be in pretty good adjustment.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

RE: AccuCraft C-16

[trotfox]

I finally got to see one run!  I was also involved in the diagnosis of why
it couldn't push itself up a grade.  :]

This was a beutiful bumble-bee model and was happily prancing around the
track untill it got to the uphill part of the track.  Here it continued to
prance at really close to the same speed but didn't have much forward
movement to show for it.  Turned out the pilot trucks bearings were
falling out of their mountings and allowing the pilot wheel to bind up
against the truck's framework.

The engine was plenty strong though!  I only saw the drivers slow down
once when the engine started to get some better tracktion on a slight
verticle kink in the track.

Looked like a manufacturing problem, but don't quote me on that.  The
pilot trucks fake spring-hangers were about 2mm too narrow to hold the
bearings in the proper orientation.  The bearings were designed to ride
loose in the slots, but these were falling out.

Good thing there were plenty of Asters and Ruby's to continue the runs!
;]

Oh, on another note...  The valve gear would be better refered to as a
simplified Walchearts than simplifies Stephensons.  It uses a pivoting
link and radius rod to adjust forward/reverse.  It does apear that there
would be room for a full Stephensons gear in there though (no, I didn't
measure anything.)  {:]

Trot, the fox who had a truly enjoyable day yesterday (even without my own
engine!)


 /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o )  AKA Landon Solomon   \ "There is a
 >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Phil. Paskos]

I think Aster had better start keeping a very sharp eye on  Accucraft.
Everytime Aster announces a new engine with the prices going so high, More
and more people will go Accucraft. And with reports like this, Accucraft may
already be winning the war.

And we are the winners!
Phil.P. Reading,PA.


Subject: RE: AccuCraft C-16


> Okay, Vance, and list, here is my report/opinions of my new C-16:
> Some background:  Almost year and a half a go I first talked to Charlie
and
> Bing at Accucraft to confirm the rumors that they were indeed considering
> producing a live steam version of their electric #42, 2-8-0, C16
(Much snipped)
 

RE: AccuCraft C-16

[Brademan Royce A NSSC]

Okay, Vance, and list, here is my report/opinions of my new C-16:
Some background:  Almost year and a half a go I first talked to Charlie and
Bing at Accucraft to confirm the rumors that they were indeed considering
producing a live steam version of their electric #42, 2-8-0, C16
"Consolidation".  Most of you have seen/heard of the "Bumble Bee" version of
the C-16, the #42 is an "old timer" version with a gray boiler and maroon
cab,  the #278 is a black, coal burner version.  All three models utilize
the same boiler and running gear in the live steam versions.  
I talked to Accucraft on a monthly, and then weekly basis to keep up to date
on the progress of the project.  About a year ago I placed a formal order
with one of Accucraft's dealers, Bob Pennock, the owner of Cross Creek
Engineering.  About six months ago, Charlie told me that the engines were
finally in production starting with the Bumble Bee, then the #278 (Black),
and finally the last engines to be produced would be the #42s.  I guess
Charlie was getting tired of me calling him :-)  so about  three months ago,
he promised to me the first of the #42s produced (via Cross Creek).
Ten days ago, my new engine arrived and I have run it on a daily basis
since.  
I can not say enough about this engine... I will sum it up by saying it was
definitely worth the wait!  The engine performs smoothly, in both
directions, can be throttled down to a crawl, or up to un prototypical
speeds, and the power has to be "felt" to be believed!  This definitely is
no Ruby with respect to design, build, and performance.  I don't own an
Aster, but of course I have seen the quality and performance of those models
at steamups.  You cannot compare this engine to an Aster in detail, but I
think you can in performance and build quality.  And, other than one little
tweak (described below), I haven't had to do anything to this engine to get
it to perform flawlessly.  The more I run it, and continue the break-in
process, the better it runs.  I have not gotten a run of less than an hour
yet, and yesterday, (90 degrees), pulling six large LGB passenger cars, I
had a measured run of almost 90 minutes (light off, to out of fuel).
The fit and finish of the model is spectacular.  This includes the tender.
Being the #42, it is not as decked out with details as the Bumble Bee, but
hey, that is why it is cheaper than the Bumble Bee, and now I can customize
the engine to my tastes.
The only issue I had with the engine, was it would develop a slight knock
once it had been running for a half hour or so.  After comparing notes with
the only other guy in the country to yet receive his #42 (Tom Burns), we
determined that the knock was coming from one of the main connecting rods
barely hitting a crosshead brace,  This only happened after these pieces
heated up, and only in forward motion.  Careful application of a jewelers
file on the crosshead brace to remove a couple of thousandths of stainless
steel and my knock was gone! 
I had talked to Accucraft before I discovered the cause of the knock, and I
have to say they were extremely responsive and helpful.  
I don't think you will be able to find one of these models at $1500.  They
probably will be selling for closer to $2000.  I got mine at the
"pre-production price" because I ordered it so long ago.
If anyone is interested, Bob Pennock at Cross Creek has a Bumble Bee in
stock.  The customer who ordered it backed out of the deal at the last
minute.  Bob is a great guy to deal with and his prices are competitive.
In closing, I highly recommend this model.  I believe it is a great value
for the $ and it will not disappoint even the Aster owners among us.  :-)
 


-Original Message-
From: VR Bass [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 11:17 AM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: Re: AccuCraft C-16


> Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with an 
> extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an 
> Aster in Quality/Functionality?

They are definitely not just a Ruby with more wheels.  They're the same 
finescale models sold as electrics, but with a live steam running gear.  I
saw 
the prototype run at a steamup a couple of years ago, and as the current
crop 
gets into buyers' hands the reports are coming in favorable.  I just got a
note 
from Royce Brademan (where are you, guy?), who received his last week, 
and he was floating on a cloud.  Run time of about an hour with excellent 
running and pulling characteristics.

> I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and 
> would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy my Ruby, 
> but I want something that will run for an extended amount of time.

I don't think $1.5 will get you a C-16.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass  

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Dave Cole]

Chris:

While the prototypes did utilize the same cylinders as the Ruby, 
Charlie told me that the production models would have a longer-bore 
cylinder. Since I have only seen pre-production models run, I can't 
verify this.

Of the the three pre-production models I've seen run, none have run 
less than an hour per fuel/water stop, and I have seen some of them 
run virtually all day.

Harlan Barr got the first one off the production line earlier this 
year and after a lot of frustration, Charlie took it back and gave 
him a later model, which apparently works fine.

I think that the pre-production price was about $1900 and that the 
current prices are between $2100 and $2500, depending upon livery.

\dmc



At 8:36 AM -0500 6/16/01, Chris Wolcott wrote:
>Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with 
>an extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer 
>to an Aster in Quality/Functionality?
>
>I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming 
>and would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy 
>my Ruby, but I want something that will run for an extended amount 
>of time.


-- 
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
   Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
   
Editor:   TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the
   Bay Area Garden Railway Society 
   
Webconductor: Pacific Coast Live Steamers 
   
^^^ 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Peter Jobusch]

I just took delivery of one that will serve as the start for a kitbashed
ET&WNC #3 ... basic black ("UNDEC RR" or "Henry Ford") paint job ... they
started with the coal burner and substituted the fancier domes from the
model of #42 ... also the simpler tender (the air tank on the frame vice on
top of the tank).

I worked with Bob Pennock ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) to get the custom
setup for about $2K, so $1500 won't quite make it, but I would seriously
consider investing an additional $500 ... it is a great little worker!  It
is not an Aster (especially in price) but is good value for the money.  I
do wish it had at least a hand pump in the tender ... which I will probably
get around to doing.

FWIW ... the kitbashing will involve removing an air pump (and rerouting
the plumbing), some rework of the tender, possibly extending the smokebox,
and some rework of the cab ... all cosmetic stuff as the #3 was built to
the same drawings as the #42 and then later converted to a coal burner.
Lucky for me there are few pictures of the #3 in existence, and those that
do exist tend to be sufficiently "soft focus" to frustrate the rivet counters!

Pete Jobusch
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

At 08:36 AM 2001-06-16 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with an 
>extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an 
>Aster in Quality/Functionality?
>
>I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and 
>would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy my Ruby, 
>but I want something that will run for an extended amount of time.
> 
> 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Cgnr]

In a message dated 6/16/01 8:18:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

<< I don't think $1.5 will get you a C-16 >>
I was quoted $2.3-$2.5 with the Bumble Bee being the more costly.  Personally 
liked the cheaper one the best.
Bob 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[VR Bass]

> Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with an 
> extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an 
> Aster in Quality/Functionality?

They are definitely not just a Ruby with more wheels.  They're the same 
finescale models sold as electrics, but with a live steam running gear.  I saw 
the prototype run at a steamup a couple of years ago, and as the current crop 
gets into buyers' hands the reports are coming in favorable.  I just got a note 
from Royce Brademan (where are you, guy?), who received his last week, 
and he was floating on a cloud.  Run time of about an hour with excellent 
running and pulling characteristics.

> I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and 
> would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy my Ruby, 
> but I want something that will run for an extended amount of time.

I don't think $1.5 will get you a C-16.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

RE: AccuCraft C-16

[Charles W. Walters]

Interesting question Chris!  While I have not seen one of the C-16's in
person, reports state that they are somewhere between the Ruby and say
perhaps an Aster.  Hard to make that comparison in my mind though, as I feel
there is a great difference between Meth fired locos and gas fired ones.  In
the 1.5k range there are several Roundhouse engines that would fit the bill,
although English in appearance.  Superior quality and long run times.
Geoffbuilt engines are in the 1.5k range, great engines, great run times.
Cheddar has a good loco in this range too!  Early reports are positive.
Have heard the C's are now running in the 2.2k range by the way!  Best of
luck!

Chuck Walters - President
Central New York Large Scale Railway Society
http://home.twcny.rr.com/cnylsrs
"Ten-foot modelers rule"

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Chris Wolcott
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 9:36 AM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: AccuCraft C-16


Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with an
extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an
Aster in Quality/Functionality?

I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and
would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy my Ruby,
but I want something that will run for an extended amount of time.

 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Cgnr]

Charlie and Bing ran the C-16 on my portable track at the QM last weekend, 
all weekend.  It is a fantastic runner and a really pretty loco.  As far as 
performance? Really quite spectacular!  After the daylight ran with it's 19 
cars, they hooked up the C-16 to the consist and it pulled it with ease.  Not 
very prototypical but one heck of a performance.  I would say that it 
performed quite flawlessly and ran for at least an hour each time.
Bob
 

AccuCraft C-16

[Chris Wolcott]

Has anyone seen one of these in action?  Are they just a Ruby with an 
extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an 
Aster in Quality/Functionality?

I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and 
would like a good quality Live Steamer.  (Under $1.5K)  I enjoy my Ruby, 
but I want something that will run for an extended amount of time.
 

Accucraft C-16 - pictures

[P. Grover Cleveland]

http://www.jps.net/groverc/llareggub/C16.html

I posted this info on my site a year ago. This is the pilot model.

Cheers,

Grover Cleveland
Managing Director and Station Porter
Llareggub & District Lt. Rwy
www.llareggub.com
"Trenau in gardd - boddlonrwydd."
 

Re: Accucraft C-16

[Paul Gieske]

--- "David M. Cole" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 1:57 PM -0700 8/21/00, Bruce Gathman wrote:
> > Accucraft C-16 Live Steamer listed
> >as being "now here" in three versions for $1895 -
> $2099.
> >What's up?!

> I don't know why Charlie and Bing haven't put it up
> on the web site but I
> know that the first production run (50?) was sold
> out and SanVal may have a
> large number of 'em.
> 
> \dmc

It is (kinda) on their web site. It's on their on-line

price sheet:
http://www.accucraft.com/pg-pricelist.html
No details though. It does say the availability date
is
October 00, and the San Val flyer says "Now Here". 
Does anyone have one? One on order?

Paul

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Re: Accucraft C-16

[David M. Cole]

At 1:57 PM -0700 8/21/00, Bruce Gathman wrote:
> Accucraft C-16 Live Steamer listed
>as being "now here" in three versions for $1895 - $2099.
>What's up?!

Yes, I saw the prototype of this engine back in May. As with all protos,
what it did and what an assembly-line version will do are two different
things, but it sure ran a long, long time (like 45 minutes, but it was a
75-degree day) on one fueling and it looked real, real purty.

I suspect with some tweaking, it could run for more than an hour.

I don't know why Charlie and Bing haven't put it up on the web site but I
know that the first production run (50?) was sold out and SanVal may have a
large number of 'em.

\dmc


^
Dave Cole
General Manager: Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
Pacifica, Calif. USA <http://45mm.com/>
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Editor: TRELLIS & TRESTLE, the newsletter of the
Bay Area Garden Railway Society <http://www.bagrs.org/>
^

 

Accucraft C-16

[Bruce Gathman]

Hey - have I been out to lunch too long or what.  In the new
San-Val Flyer there is an Accucraft C-16 Live Steamer listed
as being "now here" in three versions for $1895 - $2099.
What's up?!  I don't find it listed on the Accucraft web
site!

  Bruce Gathman, President
Eldorado Timber & Mining Co.
  Tall Trees - Deep Shafts