Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Actually, that doesn't sound crazy.  Any RR that maintains steam locos
for tourist rides, probably has steam oil on hand.  There are several of
these RR's within two hours of my home in Harleysville, PA
Doug

"M. Paterson" wrote:
> 
> Once again it may sound crazy, i found steam oil
> through a neighbor who in turn worked the local yard
> in the east bay and San Francisco. It may be that the
> oil was availble as we have steams that come through
> the area on special occasions, In addition we have a
> steam operation in the Niles Canyon area and one down
> in Felton. I did not imply that steam oil was in every
> yard or maintenace area but there are exceptions.
> mp
> 
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern
> > Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > > As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
> > >  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have
> > cans of
> > >  steam oil still lying around and if you take a
> > pint
> > >  jar they will give it away.
> > I worked for Conrail and prior to that for the
> > Lehigh Valley RR for over
> > twenty years. In all that time I never saw a drop of
> > steam cylinder oil
> > anywhere. What would you think they were using steam
> > cylinder oil for on
> > today's railroads? If anything comes close to steam
> > cyl. oil it's used in
> > antique cars. Model T Fords use SAE 600w oil in the
> > differential, not quite
> > steam oil, less sulfur added, but the right
> > viscosity.
> >
> > Keith Taylor - In sunny Maine!
> >
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Joe,
Thanks for the offer.  I ordered some last night, and another list
member is sending me a small bottle.  Unfortunatly, I work and live 35
miles north east of Philly.  At worst case, I will be going to PLS this
Saturday and I will get a little there.
Doug

Joe Betsko wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> I am travelling to Philadelphia to do some depositions, Thursday and
> Friday.  If you work in Center City Philadelphia, I might be in a
> position to help you out.
> 
> Let me know tonight.
> 
> Definitely wait for steam oil!
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:
> >
> > << .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
> >  > there anything I can >>
> > Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I
> > would but it is a long ways from Oregon.
> 
> --
> Regards,
> Joe Betsko
> Pennsylvania USA
> 
> Bala Cynwyd Railway:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net
> Primer for Novice Live Steamers:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net/tips.html
> 
> iMac - Hey, I don’t do windows! 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[M. Paterson]

Once again it may sound crazy, i found steam oil
through a neighbor who in turn worked the local yard
in the east bay and San Francisco. It may be that the
oil was availble as we have steams that come through
the area on special occasions, In addition we have a
steam operation in the Niles Canyon area and one down
in Felton. I did not imply that steam oil was in every
yard or maintenace area but there are exceptions.
mp  

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
> >  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have
> cans of
> >  steam oil still lying around and if you take a
> pint
> >  jar they will give it away.  
> I worked for Conrail and prior to that for the
> Lehigh Valley RR for over 
> twenty years. In all that time I never saw a drop of
> steam cylinder oil 
> anywhere. What would you think they were using steam
> cylinder oil for on 
> today's railroads? If anything comes close to steam
> cyl. oil it's used in 
> antique cars. Model T Fords use SAE 600w oil in the
> differential, not quite 
> steam oil, less sulfur added, but the right
> viscosity.
> 
> Keith Taylor - In sunny Maine! 
> 
__
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com 

RE: STEAM OIL (was Ruby tips (was New list member))

[Gary Broeder]

>A while back there was an article in (I think) Modeltec about using pure 
>castor oil in place of steam oil.  Anyone remeber the article?  Anyone ever 
>used the stuff? (for steam engines, I mean)
>
>Casey Sterbenz

Fellows,

I read about the use of castor oil in the G1MRA Newsletter about a year ago. Seems 
that it works quite well as 
a member did some tests and notes increased proformance. I will look it up and report 
back. GaryB 

STEAM OIL (was Ruby tips (was New list member))

[Casey Sterbenz]

A while back there was an article in (I think) Modeltec about using pure 
castor oil in place of steam oil.  Anyone remeber the article?  Anyone ever 
used the stuff? (for steam engines, I mean)

Casey Sterbenz


>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 18:03:10 EST
>
>In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
> >  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
> >  steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
> >  jar they will give it away.

__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Joe Betsko]

Doug,

I am travelling to Philadelphia to do some depositions, Thursday and
Friday.  If you work in Center City Philadelphia, I might be in a
position to help you out.

Let me know tonight.

Definitely wait for steam oil!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:
> 
> << .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
>  > there anything I can >>
> Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I
> would but it is a long ways from Oregon.

-- 
Regards,
Joe Betsko
Pennsylvania USA

Bala Cynwyd Railway:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net
Primer for Novice Live Steamers:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net/tips.html

iMac - Hey, I don’t do windows! 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Doug]

Thanks for the thought, Someone has already volunteered to send me some.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:
> 
> << .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
>  > there anything I can >>
> Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I
> would but it is a long ways from Oregon. 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:

<< .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
 > there anything I can >>
Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I 
would but it is a long ways from Oregon. 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Clark Lord]

Nice tips Vance.  Well within most of our abilities.  Hey I might even
apply them to my stock Ruby.  BTW My second Ruby that went to Lou
Banning now sports your cab, a leftover C-16 cow catcher, a Lionel
trailing truck, several Trackside Details parts, and a new paint job.  
It's pretty spiffy.

CBL

VR Bass wrote:
> I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait,
> though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up
> with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without
> any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.
//snip//
> regards,
>   -vance- 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> I got a little lost when you got
> into stack talk, and then the plug for the hole in to dome.  Do you have
> pictures of these and other mods such as the superheater?

Doug, et al.,

I made some quick drawings of the exhaust resonator and the 
steam dome plug and put them on the "Things to do with Ruby" 
page:   
While I was at it, I also put a little bit about my Ruby on there, too.

I haven't put a superheater on mine, since the trick I mentioned in 
the previous note seems to have worked fine for me.  (That was 
strapping the steam line to the bottom of the boiler with the boiler 
bands.)

You're right -- the whistle is just ornamental, as are the pop valves.  
Their only purpose is to look more like what you'd see on a 
locomotive than that half-inch hole gaping in the top of the stock 
dome.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Ktaylorlv]

In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
>  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
>  steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
>  jar they will give it away.  
I worked for Conrail and prior to that for the Lehigh Valley RR for over 
twenty years. In all that time I never saw a drop of steam cylinder oil 
anywhere. What would you think they were using steam cylinder oil for on 
today's railroads? If anything comes close to steam cyl. oil it's used in 
antique cars. Model T Fords use SAE 600w oil in the differential, not quite 
steam oil, less sulfur added, but the right viscosity.

Keith Taylor - In sunny Maine! 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[M. Paterson]

As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
jar they will give it away.  
mp

--- reefman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Not really, it's dark outside when I get home from
> work, and I'm working
> 12-16 hours a day right now.  We are installing new
> MRP software, and
> things are not going well.  So, unfortunatly, Ruby
> will wait till
> saturday...Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
> there anything I can
> use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  
> Thanks,
> Doug
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you
> write:
> > 
> > <<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to
> fire her up this weekend.
> >   >>
> > Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be
> dragging the UPS driver to
> > my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 
> 
__
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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Re: New list member.

[M. Paterson]

Before you do anything, go through the mechanism and
tighten every screw. There have been several reports
of cams etc moving because the screws either were not
tight originally or backoff in transit. Take your Ruby
and put a set of blocks under the front and back
bolsters.  You want the engine drivers to be off of
the surface or rails. It is easier to learn the
necessary adjustments etc with a stationary engine
rather than chasing around the track. Add fuel, water
and displacement oil and fire her off. Start off with
75cc of water rather than the 80cc recommended.
Initially I did not fully fill the fuel tank as I
wanted to make sure that I ran out of fuel before I
ran out of water. The engine will spit oil-water out
the stack so be prepared (have a rag handy) do not
lean too close.   Being in PA you will have alot of
condensation in the cylinders unless the temp is above
50F, even then you will throw condensation. The Ruby
requires a break-in period, The engine should run
better with each new firing.
Happy steaming.

--- Doug <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her
> up this weekend. 
> Looks very well built.
> Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes
> that need to be made?
> This is my first live steamer.  I'm in Eastern PA.
> Doug
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > Currently I'm looking the way of the Ruby.  I
> don't car for the
> > inside-to-outside valve gear on the Sammie.  I
> like somewhat complicated
> > things.  ;)  I feel it gives the loco a more
> realistic look as well.
> > 
> > On Tue, 29 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > > In a message dated 00-02-29 20:03:38 EST, you
> write:
> > >   You might want to take a look at the Ruby it
> seems to be a pretty good
> > > starter.  There is also the Roundhouse Sammy but
> it costs two times as much.
> > > I started with a Cricket(no longer being made)
> and have ordered a Ruby to be
> > > delivered asap.  Of course if you have real deep
> pockets you can get an Aster
> > > Catalog and order one of each. :-)  Seriously I
> would recommend buying an
> > > Aster Catalog for all the great information that
> the back section has on
> > > steam locomotives.
> > >
> > > Welcome to the hobby from another newcomer
> > > Lloyd
> > 
> > Trot, the fox whith half and eye for detail...
> (and 1.5 eyes for cost)
> > 
> >  TrotFox  \ Always remember,  
> /\-/\
> > AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o
> o )
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." 
> >\./<
> > 
> 
__
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is there anything I can
> use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  

Doug, If there's no one in your city you can beg some from, then call 
Sulphur Springs Steam Models TONIGHT and get them to send you 
some steam oil right away.  Have them send it two-day express 
delivery if you have to.  Don't run the engine without steam oil.  (And 
don't wait until the Saturday after next to start having fun!)

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Not really, it's dark outside when I get home from work, and I'm working
12-16 hours a day right now.  We are installing new MRP software, and
things are not going well.  So, unfortunatly, Ruby will wait till
saturday...Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is there anything I can
use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  
Thanks,
Doug

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:
> 
> <<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend.
>   >>
> Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be dragging the UPS driver to
> my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Vance,
Thanks for the tips.
I followed you on most of them, but I got a little lost when you got
into stack talk, and then the plug for the hole in to dome.  Do you have
pictures of these and other mods such as the superheater??  I assume the
whistle you are referring to as an add-on to the dome is
non-functioning??
Thanks Vance, appreceiate the info.
Doug


VR Bass wrote:
> 
> > I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend.
> 
> I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait,
> though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up
> with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without
> any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.
> 
> > Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes that need to be made?
> 
> Watch out for the O-ring which seals the gas tank filler.  If
> misadjusted it will leak gas and/or crack.  And most of them seem
> to come misadjusted.  It can be totally removed if you seal the
> threads of the filler valve with LocTite or Teflon tape.
> 
> Inspect and adjust (as necessary) the reversing valve piston.  There
> is a scribed line on the piston which should be right at the edge of
> the valve body when the Johnson bar is set for mid-gear.  If not, your
> engine will run better in one direction than the other.
> 
> All little steamers have hydraulic lock problems when they are fired
> cold.  This is because the cold cylinders condense the steam into
> water, which doesn't flow through the ports like steam does.  Piston
> valves (like Ruby has) are a little worse than D-valves (like on a
> Roundhouse).  You'll have to push the loco by hand a little, with the
> throttle open and oily water spewing up the stack, until the cyinders
> warm and the engine will run.
> 
> The steam line just hangs down under the boiler, which also
> contributes to condensation problems and loss of efficiency.   Make
> some new boiler bands about 1/4" longer than the originals, and
> use them to clamp the steam line to the underside of the boiler.
> This simple change helps quite a bit in my experience.  Or, you can
> make a superheater and attach it in between the steam line and the
> line leading to the reversing block.
> 
> Tighten all the screws and nuts, perhaps securing them with LocTite
> as well.  You'll need metric sockets for this, which you can make
> from metric hex-head screws.  (Thanks to Clark Lord for this
> suggestion.)
> 
> To get more stack talk, cut off the exhaust tube at the mid-line of the
> smokebox, and drop over it a 3/8" brass tube with a slot or mouth
> cut at the same level.  It should be about 4" long, but different
> lengths should give different effects.  Experiment.
> 
> Replace those pathetic brackets on the end beams with Ozark
> Miniatures pockets or link-and-pin couplers from Ozark or Hartford
> products.
> 
> If you add radio control, be sure that the throw of the reversing rod
> stays the same as it was with the Johnson bar.  Best method is
> probably to remove the stop screw from the bar and connect the
> servo to operate the Johnson bar.
> 
> Some cosmetic stuff:
> 
> Make a plug for the steam dome: chuck some 1/2" brass rod in
> your drill or lathe and file or turn 1/2" on the end down to about
> 15/32", so the rod is a tight slip fit in the big hole in the steam
> dome.  Drill a 1/8" hole down the middle, about 1/2" deep.  Drill 6
> 1/16" holes equally spaced around the central 1/8" hole.  Cut off a
> 1/4" piece of this rod, and silver-solder a brass whistle and two
> brass pop-valve castings into three of the holes.  Blacken the plug
> and polish the whistle and valves.  This gives you a plug which
> carries your steam appliances in the top of the dome, as on the
> prorotype, but still lets the safety valve do its job.
> 
> Replace the cheesy side tanks with more prototypically made tanks
> (side or saddle).  There's a plan for a saddle tank on my web site:
> 
> 
> Replace the cheesy metal cab with a FH&PB wood cab kit.  (Low-
> key commercial plug. :-)
> 
> That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention,
> folks?
> 
> regards,
>   -vance-
> 
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
> 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:

<<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend. 
  >>
Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be dragging the UPS driver to 
my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:

<< That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention, 
 folks? >>
Vance--
 You forgot to tell him to buy your cab kit  (he he he)  :-)

(this is not a comercial plug as I have no financial interest in the cab kits) 

Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend. 

I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait, 
though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up 
with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without 
any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.

> Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes that need to be made?

Watch out for the O-ring which seals the gas tank filler.  If 
misadjusted it will leak gas and/or crack.  And most of them seem 
to come misadjusted.  It can be totally removed if you seal the 
threads of the filler valve with LocTite or Teflon tape.

Inspect and adjust (as necessary) the reversing valve piston.  There 
is a scribed line on the piston which should be right at the edge of 
the valve body when the Johnson bar is set for mid-gear.  If not, your 
engine will run better in one direction than the other.

All little steamers have hydraulic lock problems when they are fired 
cold.  This is because the cold cylinders condense the steam into 
water, which doesn't flow through the ports like steam does.  Piston 
valves (like Ruby has) are a little worse than D-valves (like on a 
Roundhouse).  You'll have to push the loco by hand a little, with the 
throttle open and oily water spewing up the stack, until the cyinders 
warm and the engine will run.

The steam line just hangs down under the boiler, which also 
contributes to condensation problems and loss of efficiency.   Make 
some new boiler bands about 1/4" longer than the originals, and 
use them to clamp the steam line to the underside of the boiler.  
This simple change helps quite a bit in my experience.  Or, you can 
make a superheater and attach it in between the steam line and the 
line leading to the reversing block.

Tighten all the screws and nuts, perhaps securing them with LocTite 
as well.  You'll need metric sockets for this, which you can make 
from metric hex-head screws.  (Thanks to Clark Lord for this 
suggestion.)

To get more stack talk, cut off the exhaust tube at the mid-line of the 
smokebox, and drop over it a 3/8" brass tube with a slot or mouth 
cut at the same level.  It should be about 4" long, but different 
lengths should give different effects.  Experiment.

Replace those pathetic brackets on the end beams with Ozark 
Miniatures pockets or link-and-pin couplers from Ozark or Hartford 
products.

If you add radio control, be sure that the throw of the reversing rod 
stays the same as it was with the Johnson bar.  Best method is 
probably to remove the stop screw from the bar and connect the 
servo to operate the Johnson bar.

Some cosmetic stuff:

Make a plug for the steam dome: chuck some 1/2" brass rod in 
your drill or lathe and file or turn 1/2" on the end down to about 
15/32", so the rod is a tight slip fit in the big hole in the steam 
dome.  Drill a 1/8" hole down the middle, about 1/2" deep.  Drill 6 
1/16" holes equally spaced around the central 1/8" hole.  Cut off a 
1/4" piece of this rod, and silver-solder a brass whistle and two 
brass pop-valve castings into three of the holes.  Blacken the plug 
and polish the whistle and valves.  This gives you a plug which 
carries your steam appliances in the top of the dome, as on the 
prorotype, but still lets the safety valve do its job.

Replace the cheesy side tanks with more prototypically made tanks 
(side or saddle).  There's a plan for a saddle tank on my web site: 


Replace the cheesy metal cab with a FH&PB wood cab kit.  (Low-
key commercial plug. :-)

That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention, 
folks?

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
 

Re: New list member.

[Doug]

I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend. 
Looks very well built.
Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes that need to be made?
This is my first live steamer.  I'm in Eastern PA.
Doug

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Currently I'm looking the way of the Ruby.  I don't car for the
> inside-to-outside valve gear on the Sammie.  I like somewhat complicated
> things.  ;)  I feel it gives the loco a more realistic look as well.
> 
> On Tue, 29 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > In a message dated 00-02-29 20:03:38 EST, you write:
> >   You might want to take a look at the Ruby it seems to be a pretty good
> > starter.  There is also the Roundhouse Sammy but it costs two times as much.
> > I started with a Cricket(no longer being made) and have ordered a Ruby to be
> > delivered asap.  Of course if you have real deep pockets you can get an Aster
> > Catalog and order one of each. :-)  Seriously I would recommend buying an
> > Aster Catalog for all the great information that the back section has on
> > steam locomotives.
> >
> > Welcome to the hobby from another newcomer
> > Lloyd
> 
> Trot, the fox whith half and eye for detail... (and 1.5 eyes for cost)
> 
>  TrotFox  \ Always remember,   /\-/\
> AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o o )
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."  >\./<
> 

Re: New list member.

[trotfox]

Currently I'm looking the way of the Ruby.  I don't car for the
inside-to-outside valve gear on the Sammie.  I like somewhat complicated
things.  ;)  I feel it gives the loco a more realistic look as well.

On Tue, 29 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In a message dated 00-02-29 20:03:38 EST, you write:
>   You might want to take a look at the Ruby it seems to be a pretty good 
> starter.  There is also the Roundhouse Sammy but it costs two times as much.  
> I started with a Cricket(no longer being made) and have ordered a Ruby to be 
> delivered asap.  Of course if you have real deep pockets you can get an Aster 
> Catalog and order one of each. :-)  Seriously I would recommend buying an 
> Aster Catalog for all the great information that the back section has on 
> steam locomotives.  
> 
> Welcome to the hobby from another newcomer
> Lloyd

Trot, the fox whith half and eye for detail... (and 1.5 eyes for cost)


 TrotFox  \ Always remember,   /\-/\
AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o o )
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."  >\./<
 

Re: New list member.

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-02-29 20:03:38 EST, you write:

<< Sorry, now that that's out of the way I'll have to say that I'm _new_ to
 the hobby, migrating in from electric HO practice.  Currently I'm
 considering which loco to make my first steamer. >>
  You might want to take a look at the Ruby it seems to be a pretty good 
starter.  There is also the Roundhouse Sammy but it costs two times as much.  
I started with a Cricket(no longer being made) and have ordered a Ruby to be 
delivered asap.  Of course if you have real deep pockets you can get an Aster 
Catalog and order one of each. :-)  Seriously I would recommend buying an 
Aster Catalog for all the great information that the back section has on 
steam locomotives.  

Welcome to the hobby from another newcomer
Lloyd
 

New list member.

[trotfox]

So like, I'm here, and you're there, and stuff...

Sorry, now that that's out of the way I'll have to say that I'm _new_ to
the hobby, migrating in from electric HO practice.  Currently I'm
considering which loco to make my first steamer.  I don't have any
trackage layed out yet, but plan to run a temp. mainline around the back
yard of the home I'm renting.

Currently working to build a 'live deisel' locomotive as a starting point
(and to keep my mind busy 'till I get a steamer) but steam is my life-long
love (not that it's been a long life, mind you.)

My name is Landon Solomon, I'm currently in north Dallas, TX,
having been born a raised in East Tennessee.  I've scratch built two
horizontal compressed air engines (the current one just needs a few things
to make it steamable) and one out of LEGOs... just to show it could be
done. 

And that's me.  :)

Trot, the engineering, fox...


 TrotFox  \ Always remember,   /\-/\
AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o o )
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."  >\./<