Re: [time-nuts] Bad TBolt Crashing LH?

2017-08-30 Thread Ken Winterling
You also want to disable the "Microsoft Serial BallPoint" mouse in Windows
Device Manager.  If left enabled it causes your mouse pointer to jump all
over the screen every time the TBOLT sends data to the computer; about
once/second.  That was "fun" the first time I encountered it.  It looks
like your PC has been infected with a virus.

Ken
WA2LBI




On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 4:28 AM, Stephen Tompsett 
wrote:

> For FTDI serial ports, in addition to ensuring that USB suspend is
> disabled in advanced power properties, it's worth disabling Serial Port
> Enumeration in the advanced properties for the com port. This will help
> prevent FTDI ports with data being gratuitously sent to them from being
> assumed to be a mouse or pointing device; Unfortunately this setting
> gets reset following most significant Windows updates, so you get used
> to clearing the setting every couple of months...
>
>
> On 29/08/2017 19:28, Jerry wrote:
> > Thanks to all. I am using a high end laptop running Windows 7 Pro, power
> settings are all max'ed for performance - no sleep modes.  I thought it had
> a direct DB-9 serial but it does not so have to use an adapter.  I have 3
> different manufacturers USB-Serial but all use Prolific which I heard has
> counterfeits and driver problems.  I just ordered an FTDI type recommended
> for my Flex radio.  Fingers crossed not the TBolt.
> >
> > 73
> > Jerry, NY2KW
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Ken
> Winterling
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:52 PM
> > To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <
> time-nuts@febo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Bad TBolt Crashing LH?
> >
> > Jerry,
> >
> > I agree, if you have a "real" RS-232 port available use it to check if
> the TBOLT and LH communicate.  If that works, then USB adapter is suspect.
> > Prolific has been problematic.  When I had problems with my Prolific
> adapters failing, usually after an "update" - particularly Windows - I
> switched to FTDI adapters and have never had a problem since.
> >
> > Ken
> > WA2LBI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Jerry  wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Bob,
> >>
> >> Thanks for the suggestions.  I am using a Quadtech SS-100 direct
> >> USB-Serial cable with Prolific drivers as a direct connect from TBolt
> >> to PC.  Maybe I should try a direct serial to serial without the USB
> adapter.
> >> If still an issue then I will reflow the DB9 connector in the TBolt.
> >>
> >> 73
> >> Jerry, NY2KW
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> >> kb8tq
> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:08 PM
> >> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <
> >> time-nuts@febo.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Bad TBolt Crashing LH?
> >>
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> I would blame the usual “coms error” stuff and dig into that. Bum
> >> cable / loose cable is number one on that list. Connectors (on either
> >> end) coming unsoldered from the pc board would be next ….
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>> On Aug 29, 2017, at 10:30 AM, Jerry  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Need some more help figuring out why Lady Heather keeps crashing.  I
> >>> think it may be a flaky Thunderbolt but I only own one.  The PC is
> >>> an
> >>> i5 Intel with 8Gb memory and nothing running in background.  The log
> >>> sequence before crash is first time stamp erros where the log shows
> >>> within 1 sec the TBolt jumps from 6 or 7 Sats to zero.  Then after a
> >>> few more timestamp errors, the date gets corrupted ending with bad
> >>> RAM, Bad Osc, etc.  If I open LH again (and do nothing to the TBolt)
> >>> - everything looks good again for about 10-15 minutes and it all
> >>> repeats
> >> again.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> This log began with:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> #  14:27:28.000 UTC   29 Aug 2017 - interval 1 seconds
> >>>
> >>> #
> >>>
> >>> # towpps(sec)   osc(
> ppb)
> >>> dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >>>
> >>> 14:27:28  224866  -8.51365e-008-0.023564
> >>> 1.196032  42.

Re: [time-nuts] Bad TBolt Crashing LH?

2017-08-29 Thread Ken Winterling
Jerry,

I agree, if you have a "real" RS-232 port available use it to check if the
TBOLT and LH communicate.  If that works, then USB adapter is suspect.
Prolific has been problematic.  When I had problems with my Prolific
adapters failing, usually after an "update" - particularly Windows - I
switched to FTDI adapters and have never had a problem since.

Ken
WA2LBI




On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Jerry  wrote:

> Hi Bob,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions.  I am using a Quadtech SS-100 direct
> USB-Serial cable with Prolific drivers as a direct connect from TBolt to
> PC.  Maybe I should try a direct serial to serial without the USB adapter.
> If still an issue then I will reflow the DB9 connector in the TBolt.
>
> 73
> Jerry, NY2KW
>
> -Original Message-
> From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bob kb8tq
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:08 PM
> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <
> time-nuts@febo.com>
> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Bad TBolt Crashing LH?
>
> Hi
>
> I would blame the usual “coms error” stuff and dig into that. Bum cable /
> loose cable is number one on that list. Connectors (on either
> end) coming unsoldered from the pc board would be next ….
>
> Bob
>
> > On Aug 29, 2017, at 10:30 AM, Jerry  wrote:
> >
> > Need some more help figuring out why Lady Heather keeps crashing.  I
> > think it may be a flaky Thunderbolt but I only own one.  The PC is an
> > i5 Intel with 8Gb memory and nothing running in background.  The log
> > sequence before crash is first time stamp erros where the log shows
> > within 1 sec the TBolt jumps from 6 or 7 Sats to zero.  Then after a
> > few more timestamp errors, the date gets corrupted ending with bad
> > RAM, Bad Osc, etc.  If I open LH again (and do nothing to the TBolt) -
> > everything looks good again for about 10-15 minutes and it all repeats
> again.
> >
> >
> >
> > This log began with:
> >
> >
> >
> > #  14:27:28.000 UTC   29 Aug 2017 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> > #
> >
> > # towpps(sec)   osc( ppb)
> > dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >
> > 14:27:28  224866  -8.51365e-008-0.023564
> > 1.196032  42.6603588
> >
> >
> >
> > [similar as line above.for about 10-15 mins]
> >
> >
> >
> > After skipping some time stamps it becomes:
> >
> >
> >
> > #  09:39:47.000 UTC   07 Mar 2019 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> >
> >
> > Then it goes back to current UTC sometimes with 7 Sats some errors on
> > 0 or 3
> > Sats:
> >
> >
> >
> > #! time stamp skipped.  t=229340387000.000  last=181406402001.000
> > err:47933984999 ms
> >
> > #
> >
> > #  09:39:47.000 UTC   07 Mar 2019 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> > #
> >
> > # towpps(sec)   osc( ppb)
> > dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >
> > 09:39:47  225605  -8.1407e-008  0.110356
> > 1.196165  42.3623777
> >
> > #
> >
> > #  14:39:50.000 UTC   29 Aug 2017 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> > #
> >
> > # towpps(sec)   osc( ppb)
> > dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >
> > 14:39:50  225608  -8.08732e-0080.106356
> > 1.196165  83.500
> >
> > #! time stamp skipped.  t=181406392001.000  last=18140639.000
> > err:2001 ms
> >
> >
> >
> > Then it goes into 'new receiver mode' and then 'new discipline mode'
> > while
> > 3-7 Sats are visible.  This goes on for another few minutes until
> > finally it shows a series of further corruptions, with minor alarms
> ending :
> >
> > #! year error: 60404
> >
> > #! time stamp skipped.  t=1601332636481001.000  last=181406509000.000
> > err:1601151229972001 ms
> >
> > #
> >
> > #  13:14:41.001 GPS   15 Feb 52756 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> > #
> >
> > # towpps(sec)   osc( ppb)
> > dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >
> > 13:14:41  225728  -6.68514e-0080.141315
> > 1.196117  42.5886695
> >
> > #
> >
> > #  14:41:58.001 UTC   29 Aug 2017 - interval 1 seconds
> >
> > #
> >
> > # towpps(sec)   osc( ppb)
> > dac(V)  temp(C)   sats
> >
> > 14:41:58  225736  -6.60375e-0080.094983
> > 1.185647  42.5886690
> >
> > #! year error: 1814
> >
> > #! time stamp skipped.  t=-6224635078999.000  last=181406518001.000
> > err:-6406041597000 ms
> >
> > 14:42:01  5898563-1.49314e+006   -0.00
>  1.196108
> > 42.2786180
> >
> > #! new gps status: TRAIM rejected fix: at tow 5898563
> >
> > #! new discipline state: ?0B?: at tow 5898563
> >
> > #! new minor alarm state 00E7:  OSC age alarm   Antenna open   Survey
> > started  No saved posn   LEAP PENDING!: at tow 5898563
> >
> > ...
> >
> > ..
> >
> > .

Re: [time-nuts] Ships fooled in GPS spoofing attack suggest Russian cyberweapon

2017-08-15 Thread Ken Winterling
Hmmm   Bob,

It seems you have given a considerable amount of thought to armored cars,
gold bars, bank vaults, and stock trades...  Is there anything you want to
tell us  LOL

Ken
WA2LBI




On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Bob kb8tq  wrote:

> Hi
>
> In the case of a spoof, the target is likely one specific vehicle. You
> care about the
> armored car with the big pile of gold bars in it. The objective is not to
> get him to
> drive into a bridge abutment. It’s to get him to turn left on the wrong
> road. You tailor
> the spoof so everything “makes sense”.  Likely you spend a *lot* of time
> planning
> just how the spoof will happen and what is down that road he turned on.
> This isn’t
> a random process ….
>
> In the same sense, if you are going to spoof time, you do it for a
> specific reason and
> with a specific target. You want the bank vault to open early. You want
> the stock trade
> to get time stamped “just right”. There’s no need to throw off every clock
> everywhere if
> you can identify autonomous GPS based time islands. Finding those time
> islands takes
> work. So does tracking down the armored car with the gold in it ….
>
> Bob
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

2017-05-18 Thread Ken Winterling
Andy,

Although this is a hydraulic cylinder, this is along the lines of what you
described.




On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 19:18 Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts 
wrote:

>
>
> Or go for thicker wall aluminium tube, oversized endplates and long bolts
> or threaded rods running the entire length down the outside of the tube so
> you're clamping both ends in one operation. No tapping required. Simples!
>
>
>
>
> On 19/05/2017, at 6:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
>
> > I bet you went to 0.25" wall square tubing only because you want to tap
> the
> > walls for 4-40. Alternative designs can let you use much thinner material
> > and a very different flange on the ends, but the costs will likely move
> > towards welding/brazing rather than machining.
> >
> > Tim N3QE
> >
> > On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 12:54 PM,  wrote:
> >
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
> >>
> >> I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep.
> >>
> >> This is for a Rubidium project.
> >>
>
> ___
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> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
-- 

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices
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Re: [time-nuts] Changing COM Port

2016-10-30 Thread Ken Winterling
Richard,

Try this:
"C:\Program Files\Heather\heather.exe" /3

Note that the string "C:\Program Files\Heather\heather.exe" is enclosed
with quotes and the /3 is outside of the quotes.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 7:04 PM, Richard Mogford 
wrote:

> Thanks for the information on changing the COM port in Lady Heather’s
> shortcut.
>
> I added “/3” as instructed to get this: "C:\Program
> Files\Heather\heather.exe /3”
>
> However, when I press OK, I get a message that “The name "C:\Program
> Filed\”Heather\heather.exe /3” specified in the Target box is not valid.
> Make sure the path and file name are correct.”
>
> Richard
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Change COM Port in Lady Heather

2016-10-30 Thread Ken Winterling
Alberto,

If you want to always use COM3 you can edit the properties for the shortcut
you use to activate LH.  That way just clicking on the LH icon will start
the program on the correct COM port.  That is more convenient than using
the command line every time.  Here is how to do this:

Right click on the Lady Heather icon.  At the bottom of the list, click on
"Properties".  You will see a number of tabs.  Click on the "Shortcut"
tab.  In the "Target" text box you should see "C:\Heather\heather.exe" if
you installed LH on the C: drive.  If that is the case just add " /3" for
COM3, that is a space followed by /6, to the end of the line.  It should
look like this: C:\Heather\heather.exe /3.  Note that there is a space
between .exe and the "/".  Click 'OK".  Now when you click on the LH icon
it will use COM3.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sun, Oct 30, 2016 at 4:57 PM, Alberto di Bene  wrote:

> On 10/30/2016 4:15 PM, Richard Mogford wrote:
>
> I read that to change the COM port in Lady Heather, you type “/“ and then
>> the COM port number, such as 3.  So you enter “/3” to change to COM 3.
>>
>> i tried this, but it does not seem to change the input COM port from 1 to
>> 3.
>>
>
>
> Maybe I am wrong, but, if memory serves, you can only choose between COM1
> and COM2. Higher port numbers
> are not accepted.
>
> 73  Alberto  I2PHD
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Lucent RFTFm-II-XO- Lady Heather question-having issues

2016-09-24 Thread Ken Winterling
Chris,

Your GPSDO has a Bps, stop bit, and parity setting.  That has to match the
COM6 settings.  If you know the default, or current, port setting for the
GPSDO then you need to go into Windows Device Manager and set COM6 to use
the same characteristics.

To check/set the COM6 port characteristics in Device Manager do the
following:
1. Right click on the Start or Windows button, usually in the lower left
corner of the screen.
2. In the list of devices find "ports (COM & LPT)"  and double click it.
3. Double click the COM6 entry.
4. Click on the "Port Settings" tab and you will see the COM6 parameters.
Set them to match the GPSDO and click "OK".

Try LH again and advise what you see.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Chris Waldrup  wrote:

> Fantastic thanks for the help guys!!
> I now have LH seeing com 6.
> Is it possible to check/change the baud rate of LH? When I connect up the
> Lucent box it says "No COM6 serial port data seen".
> I exited LH and opened Hyper terminal and with 9600 baud and COM6 I am
> getting a data stream that stops when I unplug the 422 cable from the
> Lucent box so it looks like the GPSDO is talking to the laptop.
>
> I'm hoping it's just LH is set to another speed.
>
> I pressed spacebar for help but didn't see it as an option.
>
> I also appreciate the information about the first LH icon that comes up
> with TBolt, Seattle. I was curious how on first opening up the program it
> was seeing satellites and plotting signal strength before  I had even
> connected the GPSDO. Now I know.
>
> Chris
> KD4PBJ
> Monteagle TN
>
> > On Sep 24, 2016, at 13:55, Ken Winterling  wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > Right click on the Lady Heather icon (not the KE5FX one).  At the bottom
> of
> > the list, click on "Properties".  You will see a number of tabs.  Click
> on
> > the "Shortcut" tab.  In the "Target" text box you should see
> > "C:\Heather\heather.exe" if you installed LH on the C: drive.  If that is
> > the case just add " /6" for COM6, that is a space folowed by /6, to the
> end
> > of the line.  It should oook ike this: C:\Heather\heather.exe /6.  Click
> > 'OK".  Now when you click on the LH icon it will use COM6.
> >
> > I have assumed that your GPSDO and the COM port have the same baud, stop
> > bits(s), and parity.
> >
> > Ken
> > WA2LBI
> >
> >
> >> On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 1:30 PM, Chris Waldrup 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> I downloaded the latest version 4.00 beta of lady Heather on my win XP
> >> laptop.
> >> Installation creates two icons on my desktop. One says KE5FX TBolt
> >> (Seattle USA) and has the lady Heather icon and the other has the icon
> and
> >> simply says Lady Heather.
> >> When I try and open the Lady Heather icon (not TBolt one) an error box
> >> pops up and says Can't open com port:\\.\COM1 and will not open the
> >> software. Opening the TBolt version icon instead will open the program.
> >>
> >> What did I do wrong?
> >> Also the RS422 adapter shows up as com6 and I see in the instructions to
> >> change a command line to /6 for com6 but I am not sure where to find the
> >> command line.
> >>
> >> Thank you.
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>> On Sep 14, 2016, at 00:05, Mark Sims  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes.  The device supports a SCPI command set.   The next version of
> Lady
> >> Heather supports it... well at least my modified Z3812A does.
> >>>
> >>> You probably don't need an RS422 converter.   You can cobble an RS-232
> >> connection into the RS-422 port.  This usually works, but some hardware
> >> serial ports have voltage threshold issues reading data from the device
> >> (the RS-422 signals don't swing as much as the RS-232 ones do).  All my
> >> USB-serial dongles work well, but I have had some issues with genuine
> >> hardware serial ports.
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>>
> >>>> If I build or buy a 422 to 232 converter can I expect to be able to
> >> view the unit's data output with something like Lady Heather or
> Tboltmon?
> >> Or at least see an output with Hyperterminal?
> >>> ___
> >>> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> >> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> >>> and fo

Re: [time-nuts] Lucent RFTFm-II-XO- Lady Heather question-having issues

2016-09-24 Thread Ken Winterling
Chris,

Right click on the Lady Heather icon (not the KE5FX one).  At the bottom of
the list, click on "Properties".  You will see a number of tabs.  Click on
the "Shortcut" tab.  In the "Target" text box you should see
"C:\Heather\heather.exe" if you installed LH on the C: drive.  If that is
the case just add " /6" for COM6, that is a space folowed by /6, to the end
of the line.  It should oook ike this: C:\Heather\heather.exe /6.  Click
'OK".  Now when you click on the LH icon it will use COM6.

I have assumed that your GPSDO and the COM port have the same baud, stop
bits(s), and parity.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Sat, Sep 24, 2016 at 1:30 PM, Chris Waldrup  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I downloaded the latest version 4.00 beta of lady Heather on my win XP
> laptop.
> Installation creates two icons on my desktop. One says KE5FX TBolt
> (Seattle USA) and has the lady Heather icon and the other has the icon and
> simply says Lady Heather.
> When I try and open the Lady Heather icon (not TBolt one) an error box
> pops up and says Can't open com port:\\.\COM1 and will not open the
> software. Opening the TBolt version icon instead will open the program.
>
> What did I do wrong?
> Also the RS422 adapter shows up as com6 and I see in the instructions to
> change a command line to /6 for com6 but I am not sure where to find the
> command line.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Chris
>
> > On Sep 14, 2016, at 00:05, Mark Sims  wrote:
> >
> > Yes.  The device supports a SCPI command set.   The next version of Lady
> Heather supports it... well at least my modified Z3812A does.
> >
> > You probably don't need an RS422 converter.   You can cobble an RS-232
> connection into the RS-422 port.  This usually works, but some hardware
> serial ports have voltage threshold issues reading data from the device
> (the RS-422 signals don't swing as much as the RS-232 ones do).  All my
> USB-serial dongles work well, but I have had some issues with genuine
> hardware serial ports.
> >
> > 
> >
> >> If I build or buy a 422 to 232 converter can I expect to be able to
> view the unit's data output with something like Lady Heather or Tboltmon?
> Or at least see an output with Hyperterminal?
> > ___
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> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> > and follow the instructions there.
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Re: [time-nuts] How to run Lady Heather under Windows10

2016-03-19 Thread Ken Winterling
This USB/serial adapter has the FTDI chipset and is $14.99 USD.  It is the
one I am using on my Windows 10 laptop.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCJRD2Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00


Ken
WA2LBI

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 12:34 PM, David J Taylor <
david-tay...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>
> There are multiple possible issues:
>
> 1) Most (like 99.99%) new laptops do not have a com port, that gets you to
> some sort of external port
> 2) USB is pretty common, but as mentioned in another thread, ethernet and
> bluetooth are also quite possible.
> 3) Since it is an external bus, the connection it’s self may be down (bad
> cable / hub / out of range / turned off …)
> 4) Assuming the connection is there, you now need drivers. They have to
> match both the device and the OS
>
> Yes, this is “fun”. It’s hardly restricted to serial ports or to any one
> OS. My $6 Chinese clone programming adapters
> just stopped working when the FPGA vendor upgraded their software. Oddly
> enough, the vendor’s $300 adapter still
> works fine with the new drivers. Since I didn’t pay $294 for the IP
> protection when I bought my clones … that’s the way
> it works. Hopefully there will be new clones along “real soon now”.
>
> If your (a wild guess) USB serial adapter is not being recognized, I’d
> check the driver status in your OS. Google is
> quite helpful coming up with multiple screen shots of how to get to the
> right screen for just about any OS version on
> the planet. That screen will show you if the driver is installed and what
> com port the driver decided to use. The port number
> is a driver (not os) decision in many cases. It could just as easily be
> Com56 as Com1. The drivers do this so they don’t
> “duplicate” a previous assignment.
>
> Lots of fun…
>
> Bob
> =
>
> Bob,
>
> USB to serial, I can recommend:
>
>
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004ZMYTYC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
>
> which works well under Windows-10.  It has an FTDI chipset and not a copy.
> Must be about US $20.
>
> Whatever I'm using to talk to my Arduino board also works - ah, that's a
> genuine FTDI chipset as well.  But I do have a PL cable which also
> works nicely.
>
> I certainly don't think that needing to upgrade drivers or a single piece
> of hardware is a sufficient reason for someone to swap back to Win-7.
>
> Cheers,
> David
> --
> SatSignal Software - Quality software written to your requirements
> Web: http://www.satsignal.eu
> Email: david-tay...@blueyonder.co.uk
> Twitter: @gm8arv
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Re: [time-nuts] How to run Lady Heather under Windows10

2016-03-18 Thread Ken Winterling
Neville,

I set up a shortcut to run Lady Heather on my Windows10 system, an old IBM
ThinkPad.  Here is the exact "target" command line I use in the shortcut to
Lady Heather:
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Heather\heather.exe" /4

Be sure to use the quotes exactly as they appear above before "C: and after
.exe".  The /4 specifies COM4 on my system.

If everything on our systems were identical your shortcut target would be:
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Heather\heather.exe" /1

Use Device Manager (right click the Window icon in the lower left corner of
your screen and select Device Manager).  Look under Ports (COM & LPT) to
see what is on your system.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Ken
WA2LBI

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 9:56 AM, David J Taylor  wrote:

> NEville
>
> Thoughts
>
> 1)Get rid of WIN10 ...and instal WIN7 on the new laptop
>
> 2) Are you running a USB to COM port adapter? Could be a WIN 10 driver
> problem
>
> 3) as far as I know Windows in any version wont allow SLASH in a file
> name. I am not familiar with Lady Heather so I do not understand the use
> of "file name" and "send command" in the same sentence in this context?
> IS the file name embedded in the command?
>
> I am so fed up with WIN 10 that I may finally breakdown and go through
> the learning curve on LINUX
>
> Dave
> manu...@artekmanuals.com
> www.ArtekManuals.com
> ==
>
> Dave,
>
> Agreed on (3).
>
> I've put together a page of notes on Win-10 here:
>
>  http://www.satsignal.eu/software/Win-10-notes.html
>
> Yes, there are a few issues, but I've seen nothing major with hardware or
> software.  You're welcome to ask in case I have seen the same issue.
>
> Cheers,
> David
> --
> SatSignal Software - Quality software written to your requirements
> Web: http://www.satsignal.eu
> Email: david-tay...@blueyonder.co.uk
> Twitter: @gm8arv
> ___
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Re: [time-nuts] T-Bolt Question

2010-01-14 Thread Ken Winterling
To All,

The following procedure is taken from notes I made years ago when setting up
my TBOLT using TBOLTMON. I have never had to enter the information again and
the unit recovers automatically even after extended power failures that
exhausted its UPS.

Click Setup -> Self-Survey,
Click the "Enable" and "Save" buttons
Click "Set Survey",
Click "Save Segment",
Click "Close"
Click Control -> Restart Self-Survey.

The "Saved Position" alarm should change to green once the survey process
finishes.

You do not need to copy anything manually unless you want to specify a
more-accurate survey position than what the Thunderbolt arrives at on its
own.

Ken, WA2LBI


On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 12:07, Jim Mandaville  wrote:

> Starting without good saved coordinates will put you into search mode, and
> it may take around 45 minutes to an hour to establish a position, after
> which you will see SVs and AMUs.
>
> Once you get a good position, either from self-survey by the Tbolt or by a
> different GPS, you can enter these as follows:
>
> On the Tbolt monitor main page:
>
> go to menu heading setting "setup"; under that, go to "position"
>
> In the "position" window, type in your coordinates.  (The lat. and long.
> must be in degrees and decimal degrees. If you are starting with degrees,
> minutes and decimal minutes, divide the minutes with decimal minutes by 60
> and add the result to your original whole degrees.)  The longitude must
> start with a negative sign if it is west.  For east, no sign is required.
>
> click "set accurate position"; then click "save segment" and close the
> window
>
> you should now see the saved position in the main Tbolt window and the
> Tbolt will now start from scratch using these coordinates.  This will reduce
> your fix time to a few minutes.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  HI Dick,
>> I have the same problem and nothing works to enter the coordonates.
>> More, i don't see the SV nor AMUs.
>> 73
>> Alain
>> F4GBC
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "Richard W. Solomon" <
>> w1...@earthlink.net>
>>
>> To: 
>> Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 3:50 AM
>>
>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] T-Bolt Question
>>
>>
>>> Perhaps I posted this to the wrong forum ??
>>> Maybe if I had Duct-Taped it to a pendulum I may
>>> have gotten more responses ??
>>>
>>> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>>
 From: "Richard W. Solomon" 
 Sent: Jan 12, 2010 5:20 PM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [time-nuts] E-Bolt Question

 I am in T-Bolt Monitor software. The "Saved Position" is
 Yellow. How do I get the T-Bolt to save the survey results ?

 Thanks, Dick, W1KSZ

 ___

>>>
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Lady Heather command line modification question...

2009-02-18 Thread Ken Winterling
Mike,

Put the qualifier goes after the last quote. Here is how I specify
that COM2 is to be used: "C:\Program Files\Heather\heather.exe" /2

Ken, WA2LBI


On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 19:45, Michael Baker  wrote:
.
.
.
> I am trying to change the scale for the PPS graph from 2ns/div
> to 5ns/div and the DAC from 50uv/div to 100uv/div
>
> I have been unsuccessful at entering the appropriate command
> line modifiers-- I right-click on the Lady Heather desktop icon
> and select PROPERTIES.  In the PROPERTIES box I see the Target
> address which is:
>
> "C:\Program Files\Heather\heather.exe"
>
> I put a space after the .exe and enter  /mp[=5]  and close the quote
>
> I enter OK and then get an error message that says:
>
> The name 'C:Program Files\Heather\heather.exe /mp[=5]' specified
> in the Target box is not valid.  Make sure the path and
> file name are correct.
>
> What am I doing wrong?  Maybe I am not clear where to enter
> spaces?  I have tried different combinations, but no joy...
>
> Is this not the correct place to enter the /mp=5 suffix?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Baker

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Re: [time-nuts] Antennas, roofs

2009-02-17 Thread Ken Winterling
Hal,

If your new roof will have a ridge vent you can poke the antenna cables
through it to the outside leaving enough slack to create a drip loop before
continuing to the antenna(s).  Since the ridge vent follows the slope of the
roof the cable will exit on the down side so water will run off.

Ken, WA2LBI


On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 19:18, Hal Murray  wrote:

>
> > I really need to put in a feed through to the roof because my Z3801A
> > is struggling with an indoor antenna too; but the roof needs to get
> > replaced first...
>
> Speaking of antennas and roofs
>
> Currently, my antennas are inside.  That's good enough most of the time.
> It's also good for providing nasty test cases to software.
>
> I also need a new roof.
>
>
> I'm scheming to poke a hole in the roof so I can get some antennas in a
> better position.
>
> If I have more than one antenna, does it matter how near eachother they are
> located?
>
>
> I'm picturing a plastic pipe that sticks up a few feet and a bracket at the
> base that has the right magic angle to match the pitch of my roof.  The
> pipe
> would screw or glue into the bracket.  The bracket would get screwed to the
> roof over a hole.   The cables would go through the hole and up inside the
> pipe.
>
> I haven't worked out the details for the top of the pipe yet.  My
> (handwave)
> straw man is a U turn to keep the rain out, and mount the antennas on the
> main pipe.  Maybe a T to get them out to the side.
>
>
> Do brackets like that exist?  If so, what term or brand do I google for?  I
> have a typical not-very-steep sloped roof.  Is there a standard angle?  ...
>
> Plan B would be to stick the pipe through the roof and attach it inside to
> the side of a rafter.  I assume the roofers can treat it like a plumbing
> vent
> pipe.
>
>
> A slightly crazy idea...  Has anybody poked antennas up inside a skylight?
> I'm thinking of the setup which has a hole in the ceiling of a room, a box
> from that hole through the attic space up to and through the roof, and a
> plastic dome on top.  A shelf or bracket on the inside of the box would get
> the antennas almost on the outside.
>
>
> I've seen ads for metal roofs/shingles, the claimed advantage being long
> life
> which is attractive to me.  I assume they would be a disaster for antennas
> inside.  What about outside, slightly above the roof?  I'd expect bad
> things,
> but maybe there is some way to turn it into an advantage.
>
>
>
> --
> These are my opinions, not necessarily my employer's.  I hate spam.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] What outdoor antenna for Tbolt?

2008-09-14 Thread Ken Winterling
Dave,

I use a Motorola Oncore Timing2000. At the time it cost $39, new, on eBay.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 4:28 PM, David Medin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>   What outdoor bullet antenna are people using for their Tbolts
>   (manufacturer and model number), where did you find it, and how much
>   did you pay for it? I'm looking at several eBay antennas and the like
>   crossing my fingers that the bias voltage and current will work, but
>   I'd rather get some advice from those of you that have actually done
>   the deed. I'm only really interested in antennas designed for permanent
>   outdoor or marine installation.
>
>   Thanks!
>
>   Dave Medin
> __
>
>   Are you a Techie? Get Your Free Tech Email Address Now! Visit
>   http://www.TechEmail.com
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Re: [time-nuts] Leap Second Pending

2008-07-28 Thread Ken Winterling
So has mine.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 8:01 PM, Mark Sims <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> My Thunderbolts have just raised the "Leapsecond Pending" minor alarm...
>  six months seems a bit early for such a warning...
> 
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt initial startup

2008-05-20 Thread Ken Winterling
Dave,

My original antenna was a mobile GPS unit stuck out the window on a thin
aluminum pole just to get it away from the house.  It worked fine until I
got my "real" antenna installed.  I believe the default is overdetermined
clock mode.  AMU is Amplitude Measurement Unit.  I think the default is 3 or
4 before it locks on the bird.  You can change that but I would use the
defaults until you see how everything works. You may want to change the
clock from GPS to UTC.

Ken, WA2LBI



On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 4:52 PM, David C. Partridge <
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It's found a whole lot more satellites now - tracking seven!
>
> Once self survey is complete, should I set to overdetermined clock mode and
> dynamics code stationary?
>
> Thanks
> Dave
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of David C. Partridge
> Sent: 20 May 2008 21:21
> To: 'Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement'
> Subject: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt initial startup
>
> I've managed to cobble a serial cable for my TB as I found I had a spare
> DB9M connector and another cable with a DB9F on the other end.
>
> I'm now looking at tboltmon - it's saying only 1 SV usable and 1% into
> self-survey, I only attached the antenna about 5-10 minutes ago.
>
> The antenna (car type) is mounted on a small disc of aluminium, and is
> about
> 40ft off the ground and has a reasonable view of the sky though there are
> some trees to the south of me.   Antenna cable is 5mtrs of RG174.??
>
> It shows a number of satellites with an AMU value (whatever that is) of 0.
> The one it's tracking has an AMU of >15.
>
> Is this normal as the self-survey starts?  Or do I need a (much) more
> serious antenna (this one claims 28db gain)?
>
> Regards,
> David Partridge
> Tel: +44 (0)1926 856755
> Mobile: +44 (0)7963 206199
> Email:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> skype:david.partridge
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt serial connection - null modem or straight through?

2008-05-20 Thread Ken Winterling
David,

You need a male/female straight-through 9 pin cable to connect directly to a
PC serial port or RS-232/USB adapter.  I am using the latter arrangement.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 1:55 PM, David C. Partridge <
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I can't quickly determine from the Thunderbolt manual which cable type I
> need.  The connector on the Thunderbolt suggests it's DCE (female
> connector), but I suspect it's actually configured as DTE (i.e. null-modem
> cable needed).
>
> Which one is it please?
>
> Thanks
> David Partridge
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Power supply for Thunderbolt

2008-04-21 Thread Ken Winterling
David,

The only load on my Meanwell T-30B is the Thunderbolt and there is no problem.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Mon, Apr 21, 2008 at 10:29 AM, David C. Partridge
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Based on what's been said so far, I've ordered a Meanwell T-30B from Aibin
>  Guo.
>
>  Does this supply need dummy loads to ensure regulation, or does it manage OK
>  with just the load the Thunderbolt places on it?
>
>  The TB manual specifies:
>
>  +12v +/-10% max current 750 mA
>  +5v +/-5% max current 400 mA
>  -12v +/-10% max current 10 mA
>  Ripple
>  +5v 50 mV peak-to-peak, 15 mVrms
>  +/-12v 75 mV peak-to-peak, 20 mVrms
>
>  Looking at the T-30B datasheet, it suggests ripple/noise of around 20-25mV
>  p-p on all lines for an input between 210 and 250V.
>
>  This does seem to meet those specifications - that's pretty good for an
>  SMPS.   I'm used to them being pretty noisy brutes.
>
>  Many thanks to all
>  Dave
>
>
> -Original Message-
>  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>  Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>  Sent: 21 April 2008 14:46
>  To: time-nuts
>  Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Power supply for Thunderbolt
>
>   I also purchased from Aibin Guo a Mean Well. Model: T-30B power supply
>  ...

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Re: [time-nuts] Power supply for Thunderbolt

2008-04-21 Thread Ken Winterling
David,

I use a Mean Well. Model: T-30B with my Thunderbolt.  See
http://www.meanwell.com/search/T-30 for details.  It is about the same
dimensions (slightly higher) as the GPSDO.  I got mine from  Aibin,
VA3GUO, and it was only slightly more expensive than the unit you
referenced on Ebay.  Contact him through Ebay.  You may be able to
source it elsewhere but I bought mine at the same time I bought the
Thunderbolt.

I have no connection to Aibin other than as a satisfied customer.  He
is easy to work with.

Ken, WA2LBI


On Mon, Apr 21, 2008 at 4:40 AM, David C. Partridge
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm in the process of buying a Thunderbolt, and will need to provide it with
>  some volts.
>
>  I sat down over the weekend to design a linear supply for it.  Initially
>  things looked OK using a 12-0-12 transformer, and a few IC voltage
>  regulators, but then I did some worst case design and dissipation analysis,
>  and found that I needed to use a 15-0-15 transformer to allow for a -10%
>  mains variation, and add pass transistors and lots of heat sinking to all
>  the regulators to allow for a +10% mains variation.
>
>  Add to that transformer regulation issues (over-size transformer), the time
>  to design the PCB and the cost of getting it made, and things started to
>  look expensive :-(.
>
>  I can probably source a linear supply on eBay, but these are typically
>  pretty large and heavy.  For example: eBay item number 330201077319
>
>  So is it reasonable to use an SMPS, and add additional filtering to the
>  output?  Typically these talk in terms on 150mV ripple & noise which I need
>  to reduce by a factor of ten or better.
>
>  If you have been there, done that, I'd be interested to hear what you did.
>
>  Thanks
>  Dave Partridge

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Re: [time-nuts] Tboltmon Serial Port Selection...??

2008-03-28 Thread Ken Winterling
That works for me, too!  I also have version 2.60.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Fri, Mar 28, 2008 at 4:11 AM, Stephen Tompsett
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My version of Tboltmon (version 2.60)accepts a command line argument
>  which bypasses the selection menu e.g.
>
> TBOLTMON.EXE -c1
>
>  This does not appear to be documented.
>
>
>
>  Michael Baker wrote:
>  > Hello, All--
>  >
>  > Can anyone tell me why, when I click on the Tboltmon
>  > icon associated with my Trimble Thunderbolt,
>  > that a little Serial Port Selecton window pops up
>  > and why does my T-bolt only run after selecting
>  > COM-4?  Why can't this be selected once and then
>  > forgotten about?  It seems like an un-necessary step.
>  >
>  > Thanks!!
>  >
>  > Mike Baker
>  > WA4HFR
>  > Micanopy, FL
>  >
>  > ___
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>  > To unsubscribe, go to 
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>  > and follow the instructions there.
>  >
>  >
>
>  --
>  Stephen Tompsett
>
>
>
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Tboltmon Serial Port Selection...??

2008-03-27 Thread Ken Winterling
Mike,

I don't believe the software has any option for saving a serial port
selection.  At least I have never found one.  It defaults to COM1.  I
use a USB/RS-232 converter and COM 2 because COM 1 on my laptop is in
use by another application.  I have to select COM2 every time I start
the program.  I don't do it that often so it is only a minor
annoyance.

As for why it only works on COM 4 on your PC, I would need a bit more
information but I can speculate.  Does your PC have the older RS-232
or newer USB serial ports?  If you have the former, then the Trimble
is connected to COM4.  If you are using USB ports and a USB/RS-232
adapter (s) then the adapter has assumed the COM4 identifier when it
was plugged into the USB port.  When a USB/RS-232 adapter is plugged
into a USB port it assumes a COMn identifier, usually the next
available one.  You may find that the system has already defined COM1,
COM2, and COM3.  This can happen if you move a USB/RS-232 adapter to a
different USB port or have several adapters.

In the following steps I am assuming you are using a Windows PC
running XP and have USB ports and are using a USB/RS-232 adapter(s).
If so go to Control Panel and open the System folder.  Click on the
Hardware tab.  On the Hardware page click the Device Manager button.
Click on the "+" sign next to Ports (COM & LPT).  You will see a list
of COM ports defined on your system.

If you don't see COM1 defined in the list then you COULD change the
COM4 port to COM1.  Here is how.  Right click the COM4 entry.   Click
Properties.  Click Port Settings.  Click Advanced.  Find the COM Port
Number: pull down box.  You should see COM4 in the box.  Click the
down arrow and select COM1.  Click OK.  Click OK until you are back to
the Device Manager screen where you started.  You should see COM1
listed as one of the ports.  It may be necessary to close and reopen
the Device Manager to see the change.

Good luck.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 7:43 PM, Michael Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello, All--
>
>  Can anyone tell me why, when I click on the Tboltmon
>  icon associated with my Trimble Thunderbolt,
>  that a little Serial Port Selecton window pops up
>  and why does my T-bolt only run after selecting
>  COM-4?  Why can't this be selected once and then
>  forgotten about?  It seems like an un-necessary step.
>
>  Thanks!!
>
>  Mike Baker
>  WA4HFR
>  Micanopy, FL
>

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Re: [time-nuts] Trimble Thunderbolt Rs-232 Levels

2008-02-13 Thread Ken Winterling
Darrell,

I just bought that exact unit a couple weeks ago, probably from the
same seller.  It works directly with an RS-232 port.  I'm using mine
with a RS-232/USB adapter to my laptop.  The power supply board only
supplies the +/- 12VDC and + 5VDC.

Here are the Mouser part numbers for the power plug and female pins:

Mouser #: 538-50-57-9406
Mfr. #:  50-57-9406
Desc.: SL Connectors HSG 6P SINGLE ROW POSITIVE LATCH

Mouser #: 538-16-02-0104
Mfr. #: 16-02-0104
Desc.: SL Connectors 22-24 TERMINAL BULK

Ken, WA2LBI

On Feb 12, 2008 11:19 PM, Darrell Robinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've just purchased a Trimble Thunderbolt from e-Bay, and from the various 
> documentation that I've found online I'm still not 100% sure if I can use the 
> RS-232 interface directly with my computer. I'm concerned that I might cook 
> the Trimble interface with the ±12 volts from the computer RS-232. I'm 
> wondering if the Trimble is TTL level only and therefore needs a MAX232 or 
> similar, or does it use the older standard ±12 volt levels?
>
> The box I have does not have the power supply board enclosed. It's the timing 
> board only with 2 BNC, an 'F' connector and a 6-pin power plug. Does the 
> power supply board that comes with the more complete version have a level 
> converter built in?
>
> Darrell
>
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Re: [time-nuts] Setting Trimble Thunderbolt Stored Position

2008-02-06 Thread Ken Winterling
DR,

Thanks.  I already found that pull down menu but can't find an
explanation of the multiple buttons.  It looks like you wait until the
survey completes then simply copy the lat/long, etc info from the main
screen to the corresponding fields in the pull down then press "set
accurate".  I just want to understand all of the options.

Ken, WA2LBI

On Feb 6, 2008 5:16 PM, Dan Rae <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ken Winterling wrote:
>
> >Greetings,
> >
> >I am new to using a GPSDO and have recently obtained a Trimble
> >Thunderbolt.  It is up and running and I am using TBOLTMON to monitor
> >its operation.  Everything is "green" except the "stored position"
> >minor alarm.
> >
> >
>
> You'll need that Ken if you ever turn it off, otherwise it will start
> another survey.
>
> It's in one of the pull down menus.
> Setup  /   Position  /  Set accurate position  would be the best guess.
> I think it took  me a couple of tries to find it, but you'll see it go
> green when you get it right.  From then on it will stay in eeprom, if
> you do turn it off.
>
> The manual is not a lot of help, it just says the program is highly
> intuitive! I guess it is :^)
>
> dr
>
>
>

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[time-nuts] Setting Trimble Thunderbolt Stored Position

2008-02-06 Thread Ken Winterling
Greetings,

I am new to using a GPSDO and have recently obtained a Trimble
Thunderbolt.  It is up and running and I am using TBOLTMON to monitor
its operation.  Everything is "green" except the "stored position"
minor alarm.

While searching for information on how to set this information I came
across this group and promptly joined.  I searched the archives but,
unless I missed it, I can not find specific instructions on how to
save the information to EEPROM using the Trimble software.  There are
references to the exact information I seek but there are no details as
to how to do it.  Can anybody provide me with the instructions?

Thanks,

Ken, WA2LBI

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