Re: [time-nuts] Warning if buying from directly from Agilent via eBay with Paypal.
On 16/11/12 23:48, J. Forster wrote: PayPal is pretty much a law unto itself. Basically, if you choose to become involved with them, it's their bat, ball, glove, and ballpark. Your only real alternative is to play another game. Unfortunately, the younger generation of eBay sellers is convinced that PayPal and plastic is the only trustworthy way of doing business. I am somewhat pissed because I just lost out on an eBay item, not to another bidder as there was no one else, but to a PayPal only lockout. I think most sellers would drop Paypal like a hot stone if they could. For the most part ebay insist that you offer Paypal above anything else. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Be aware of test equipment seller orzel-enterprisesoneBay
On 11/09/2012 21:48, Tom Miller wrote: That used to be the case but ebay now charges on the final price including shipping. AFAIK Ebay (at least in the UK) doesn't include postage in its final value fee, where postage is specified separately that is. It takes its bite of that particular cherry via the PayPal charge. There is, however, (not so) subtle pressure to get sellers to offer free postage where Ebay *does* get to take a slice of the postal charges. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Be aware of test equipment seller orzel-enterprises oneBay
On 11/09/2012 13:17, David Kirkby wrote: If a buyer changes his mind, he will usually have to pay shipping both ways. I say usually, because under the Distance Seller Regulations in the UK, if an individual (non-business) buys an item at a fixed price from a business, and they get it and don't like it, the seller is legally obliged to pay the shipping both ways. Just to correct a small error here - the seller is not legally bound to pay postage both ways, the DSR allows the seller to specify that the buyer pays the return postage - as long as they do so before the sale. As someone who occasionally manages to sell items on ebay for (extremely) modest profit I would never try to wriggle out of my obligations under the DSR but paying for the postage one way can wipe out any revenue from an item, even if re-sold. Paying both ways is unfair to small sellers if it's purely a change of mind, although I agree I should pay IF it is my mistake or an item actually manages to arrive faulty despite the considerable care I take to test and, if necessary, repair items before sale. Larger distance sellers, can factor a few percent returns into their sales - I just don't do the volume to do so without pricing myself out of the market. As to the packaging for your item I feel your pain - I hate it when items arrive poorly packed. Fortunately I've been lucky so far and nothing has been signifcantly damaged. Sending I always use fat bubble wrap to give about 2 coverage, then peanuts packed into bags so that they can't flow around the item, for heavier items I us expanded polystyrene if I have it to hand and I've been toying with the idea of experimenting with expanding foam to give custom moulded support. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] Fixed my 1804M
On 25/07/12 22:18, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote: How about a 10 MHz OCXO and a divide by two chip? Maybe an op-amp to change and/or invert the control voltage? In the end that's exactly what I did. Details on eevblog - http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects-designs-and-technical-stuff/rapco-1804m-repair-10mhz-conversionbodge-(-teardown)/ Found a 10MHz ocxo which seems to have very similar specs to the 10Mhz 1804Ms running without GPS and dropped that in. There's a handy 22ohm damping resistor in the track which takes the 5MHz round to the logic so lifting that allows one to insert a divide by two bodge, leaving 10MHz at the rear BNC. Didn't have too many problems achieving fine control for the oscillator - took about 24 hours, although I did tweak the DAC output manually to be in the right ball park - it needed quite a large shift I wasn't sure whether the firmware would make such a large correction, or take a very long time to do it. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 29/07/12 07:21, Mike Millen wrote: Fluxclene is also excellent for removing glue residue left by labels, etc. Yes, I saw your previous message and certainly plan to try it (might try some lighter fluid first). In fact was going to order it from link you posted until I hit the £12 postage fee - Farnell stock it at only fractionally above the Electrolube site - £16.80 vs £16.51 for the 1L size and also sell the smaller sizes in one off quantities. Postage is then free as long as I spend the £20 minimum order value - so once I've accumulated a few more bits to buy from them I'll get some. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote: I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection. Talking of which does anyone have any suggestions as to with what? I've tried IPA, ethanol, acetone and even some of the tiny amount of 1,1,1 trichloroethane I have left (yes, I know it's banned). Nothing so far has had much impact on the remains of the foam or the remains of the sticky tape (the yellow residue on some of the components in the photos). I'm running out of ideas as to what might clean it off without damaging the board. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 28/07/12 21:13, Mike Millen wrote: Paul Flinders wrote: On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote: I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection. Talking of which does anyone have any suggestions as to with what? I've tried IPA, ethanol, acetone and even some of the tiny amount of 1,1,1 trichloroethane I have left (yes, I know it's banned). Nothing so far has had much impact on the remains of the foam or the remains of the sticky tape (the yellow residue on some of the components in the photos). I'm running out of ideas as to what might clean it off without damaging the board. I can't guarantee anything, but I'd be surprised if Fluxclene didn't do the trick: http://www.electrolube.com/docs/cleaningmain.asp?id=13 Thanks I'll give it a try. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 28/07/2012 22:38, John Miles wrote: I can't guarantee anything, but I'd be surprised if Fluxclene didn't do the trick: http://www.electrolube.com/docs/cleaningmain.asp?id=13 Thanks I'll give it a try. Also try some naptha (sold as lighter fluid, or as a product called Goof-Off.) goof-off doesn't seem to be available easily in the UK - naptha might be worth a go. That said I did try a label removal solvent which I've found useful on other general gunk (the pro-power one) and that didn't touch it. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote: I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection. With a microscope if you can get your hands on one. Look for cracked SMT parts. The high heat from the oven could very well stress the parts causing a failure. Flux the board up and hit all the connections with a small iron. When you melt the solder on each end of a part, if one is broken, it will then show up. Thanks for the tips. On further reflection I think that the foam probably has disintegrated over time (mostly). The pattern of what is melted/stuck to components is wrong for an exogenous heat source. I might have to play around with solvents as IPA didn't have much effect on the really stuck down stuff. I agree it's likely to be a dry joint or cracked SM part so the plan of a thorough clean and visual inspection is a good one - I don't have access to a microscope but do have a couple of decent hand lenses. I suspect careful use of the heat gun and freezer spray will help as well. I'm going to be away for a week so will pick this up again when I get back. I'll update the list with any progress. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
Ron Ward sayeth: Hi: I have been looking at the poor quality solder joints on the oscillator. If you have a steady hand and a small tipped soldering with silver baring (about 2% silver) solder, I would re-solder the connections. Many of them do not look properly wetted and cold. Some of the heat from removing the top may have re-soldered a problem connection. I wondered whether that was possible but I don't think the inside got anywhere near reflow temperatures - the only heat damage was that bit of SRBP like stuff and the foam behind that looked much the same as everywhere else. It probably did get above 100deg C for a while. I'll give it a thorough clean and have a close look at all the joints and SMT components when I have chance. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 23:36, Ed Palmer wrote: Take another look at flea bay. If you search for 5 mhz oscillator and weed out the trash there are a few decent looking units. I had searched for 5MHz ocxo which is why I didn't see the ones you found. Having said that the result is slightly frustrating as, although there are a few 5MHz ocxo's in the list none will fit the case which is only 1U As for repairing the original, go for it. You can't make it any worse. I would use a utility knife to scrape away as much solder as possible but don't use the sharp edge of the blade, use the back of the sharp edge so that it cuts more like a cutter on a lathe or milling machine. Once you've got the excess out of the road, my tool of choice is a micro-torch. Pre-heating with a heat gun might be a good idea, too. If you search the archives you'll find more ideas on opening these things. Thanks I'll have a look ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 23:10, Bob Camp wrote: Hi That's just a basic solder sealed package. It should be pretty easy to pop open. You'll use up a bit of solder wick doing it… I'm still sort-of hoping someone with experience will offer but I'm leaning towards having a go at some point. My natural reaction would be that solder wick will never clear the solder which has been sucked deep into the joint by capillary action. The case/base look to be a pretty tight fit even without the solder. Is it possible to clear all the solder just with solder wick or do you have some technique to get the last bit out? Do you ultimately need to heat the whole of the length of the seam simultaneously to get it apart? ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On Wed, July 25, 2012 10:05 pm, Paul Flinders wrote: There is a UK supplier of HCD Research ocxo's and although the HCD-66 is clearly obsolete, a current unit - the HCD-660 looks about the right spec (http://www.golledge.com/docs/products/ocxos/hcd660.htm). However I'm pretty certain that if I have to request a quote the price will be beyond what I can afford to spend fixing the unit. Well, I was correct about that - GBP 450 (about USD 700) for a new one. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 26/07/12 17:49, Tom Miller wrote: Hi Bob, Did you look at his pictures of the oscillator? I think the base will need to be secured and the top pulled off. This is different from most of the OCXOs I have seen. I'm somewhat tempted to try putting the bottom in the vice, heating the whole seam with a hot air gun and trying to pull the case off (with a heavy leather glove on one hand). We're having what we laughably call summer in the UK - it's not hot in any absolute sense (mid-high 20's Celsius) but the humidity after several week's rain makes it *feel* as though I just have to get the case a few degrees above ambient and the solder will melt with ease :-) ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote: Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then, you may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C. A good hot air heat gun would most likely do the trick. Maybe use some solder wick first to lower the amount of tin/lead solder. Then add the chipquik. You might also just solder a tab on the bottom then you could clamp the top in a leather jawed vise. Hit it with a hot air gun while pulling on the base tab. Well, a few exploratory attempts confirmed my initial suspicion that I don't have a soldering iron big enough for the job - the largest I have is 60W or so, and the hot air gun didn't touch it even set to 480deg C So, I reached for the next larger source of heat which is a small blowtorch I have, set a small flame and ran it round the whole seam then pulled the top off with a gloved hand. Things did get a bit warm but only for a short while. The first thing I encountered was some insulating foam - this was rather sticky. Not sure whether it had gone like that over time or due to my heating the whole thing a bit too much. On three sides the foam was separated from the case by what looks like some thin SRBP. This had blistered a bit so obviously things were a bit hot just there but the foam was much the same whether protected by the SRBP so I'm wondering whether this has just disintegrated over time. Pulling/washing the foam off reveals three PCBs and a further enclosed metal case with the crystal. A TIP21 bolted to this acts as the heating element. Originally there had been some cable ties anchoring the crystal enclosure but these were brittle - presumably from the heat of the oven. Hooking the unit up to 12V and an oscilloscope shows that it has survived the encounter with the blow torch and produces a nice 5MHz sine wave at 2.5V p-p (into 10Meg ohm). Irritatingly it doesn't really want to misbehave - presumably because whatever didn't like the heat is now cooler with the insulating foam removed. The inner metal case gets too hot to touch but the thermostat seems to be working because the current drawn drops from about 380mA to 240 or so. It should probably be lower but, again, without the usual amount of insulation it's likely to draw more keeping the oven up to temperature. So, as it doesn't want to misbehave, I'm not totally clear which way to go. The output does drop to about 1.8V p-p when the oven is fully warm which might be related to the original fault. I suppose the fact that the fault has gone away eliminates the oven assembly or crystal itself as the source of the problem. Photos for comments or curiosity. The black stuff all over the PCBs is the remains of the foam. http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1020364.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1020367.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1020368.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1020369.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1020370.jpg ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
I've finally had chance to pull my Rapco 1804M GPS conditioned oscillator apart to try to debug it. To recap I bought this a few months ago from an ebay vendor. It was fine at first (for a few hours) although I needed a better antenna or better site for the one I have but the second chance I had to spend any time on the antenna the 1804M itself decided to develop a fault running for a few seconds then restarting the firmware. It looks like the ocxo has died - pulling it from the unit and running it stand alone produces a similar result, 10MHz output for a short while, then it dies. Presumably this is related to the oven heating up and a dry joint or something else that doesn't like getting warm/expanding. The ocxo in the Rapco is an HCD-66-SC 5MHz 12V unit. They are completely sealed and I doubt I could get into it without destroying it so repair seems out of the question. There is a UK supplier of HCD Research ocxo's and although the HCD-66 is clearly obsolete, a current unit - the HCD-660 looks about the right spec (http://www.golledge.com/docs/products/ocxos/hcd660.htm). However I'm pretty certain that if I have to request a quote the price will be beyond what I can afford to spend fixing the unit. The only 5MHz ocxo available on fleabay is a Symmetricomunit but the auction has no data on it, nor can I find any on the net. It's obvious from the photos though that there are a couple of extra pins compared with the HCD-66 so it wouldn't fit the PCB. Does anyone know where I might be able to locate a suitable (used) replacement? ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 22:27, Tom Miller wrote: Can you post up a few pictures of the oscillator? There have been people that have opened these up and repaired them. If you feel not up to it, why not see if someone on this group can help. Repairing it will eliminate a lot of searching. Pictures at http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000981.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000982.jpg http://www.wild-pc.co.uk/images/P1000983.jpg Apologies for slightly poor quality. It's fully soldered at the base - possibly wasn't done in one go but I suspect would all have to be heated to get it apart - I have an SMD style hot air gun but it couldn't tackle that job. If anyone is able to repair it I'd certainly be interested. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 22:18, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote: How about a 10 MHz OCXO and a divide by two chip? Maybe an op-amp to change and/or invert the control voltage? Yes I've thought about that. In fact it might be the better way to go as 10MHz output would definitely be more useful. I need to trace out the circuit to see what happens to the 5MHz signal on its way to the rear BNC and also on its way to the logic circuits to see if I could get a divider in there at the right point to send 5MHz to the logic and 10MHz on the rear BNC. As you suggest the easiest is if I can find a unit with a similar control voltage range (0.5 to 7V and approx +/- 1 in 10^7 adjustment). ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 22:49, Mark Spencer wrote: This approach could also facilitate using a higher perfromance OCXO. This is after all time nuts (: I'm surprised to hear how few 5 Mhz OCXO's are avaliable on the bay right now. Earlier this year I picked up a nice Wenzel 5 Mhz OCXO for$100.00 Do you have any suggestions for a higher spec unit? Basic spec seems to be +/- 2 in 10^10 drift/day and 2 in 10^9 variation over its specified temperature range. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 23:10, Bob Camp wrote: Hi That's just a basic solder sealed package. It should be pretty easy to pop open. You'll use up a bit of solder wick doing it… If there's anyone in the UK who has experience with these let me know if you're willing to have a go. If not I suppose I can't loose much - it's bust anyway :-/ ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 23:19, Bob Camp wrote: Hi There are a bunch of Morion OCXO's on eBay. You may or may not get a good one, but the price is right. Most of them are significantly better than what you have now. I suppose that the argument is that the GPS keeps the frequency to much tighter limits than the raw oscillator. The Morion units look interesting and cheap enough to pick one up anyway - one minor grumble is that the position of the Vref/Vin pins seems swapped compared with the HCD one. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo
On 25/07/12 23:27, Mark Spencer wrote: Yep... If you are prepared to go with a 10 Mhz OCXO and want to keep the costs down the Morion units are worth looking at. I picked up two of them earlier this year. I was pleasantly surprised at the performance. I don't recall the spec's off hand but at least one of the vendors has an online data sheet. I'd be inclined to spend some time hunting down a 5 Mhz OCXO vs using a divider though. - Agreed, though Bob has me almost thinking I might try opening the bust one after all. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] So, how did you spend your leapsecond?
On 01/07/2012 01:07, Mark Sims wrote: ? Shopping. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rapco 1804m
On 03/06/12 16:59, paul swed wrote: Sounds like a better antenna and location might be the trick. You don't say how high what coax length and type... Since you do not have a manual you sat mask angles may also be causing an issue by eliminating possible sats. But weak signals will do exactly what you see 2 d fixes and an occasional 3. Thas a pretty good clue. Regards Paul. Well, it didn't last long :( Had the chance to try the antenna in a better spot, higher up with more view of the sky. Ran it for about an hour, initially OK - took a while to get a fix but got a signal from 5 or 6 satellites, more 3D lock but still mostly 2D and coarse oscillator control. I was waiting to see if the oscillator lock did drop into fine but reading the manual that might take a while from first switch on. Went off to do some other stuff then came back to find it just in a loop resetting itself, running for a few seconds, then resetting itself again. It had also clearly forgotten it's idea of the current time as it now reports a UTC time of just a few minutes past midnight 1/1/99. Does anyone know if there is there any common fault or operating problem that would make it do this? ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rapco 1804m
On 09/06/12 18:42, Chris Albertson wrote: Could be any kind of internal failure. Yes, it's got the feeling of a processor problem, duff RAM or similar. But I'd check out the antenna and the antenna feed line. I've seen broken ground shields and water wicked inside the coax, is there DC in the center conductor (as measured at the antenna end of the cable) so the amp inside the antenna can be powered. Is the DC voltage correct? Does the antenna work with some other GPS receiver? 4.85V on the antenna connector, haven't got another GPS receiver to check the antenna with but I don't think that's the problem. If I pull the power header from the GPS board then the overall behaviour doesn't change, runs for 20 secs max, then resets. Usually doesn't even get to print out one UTC line so I just get a cycle of the software version string down the terminal. With the GPS board disabled the only difference is that if it does manage to print the satellite data it's blank - pretty much what you'd expect. I think that basically confines the problem to the processor board. I've contacted the vendor but as they still haven't replied to my request for a copy of the manual (once again thanks to everyone who helped me out there) I doubt I'll get much joy. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] Rapco 1804m
Hi Just joined the list - recently acquired a Rapco 1804m, mainly to use as a frequency standard, especially to have something to check the FE-5680A that I have. The unit itself seems to work OK - connected to a cheapie puck style GPS antenna I got a 2D fix, occasionally 3D which corresponded pretty well with my actual location and Coarse oscillator lock, but never Fine. It's the version with an OXCO rather than local Rubidium oscillator. I've read David Taylor's notes and had a hunt through the list archives - I suspect I need a slightly better antenna, or a better position for the one I already have. It had a decent enough view southwards/southwest but somewhat obstructed to the north and north-east and comparing the visible satellites on my 'phone it was certainly the northerly/north-eastern ones that had low or no signal strength. However I could really do with a copy of the manual, at least to understand the difference between Coarse and Fine locks on the oscillator - does anyone have an electronic copy that they would be willing to let me have? Or a physical copy - I'm happy to pay a reasonable sum. Also is the serial protocol for these documented anywhere? ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rapco 1804m
On 03/06/2012 16:59, paul swed wrote: Sounds like a better antenna and location might be the trick. You don't say how high what coax length and type... Since you do not have a manual you sat mask angles may also be causing an issue by eliminating possible sats. But weak signals will do exactly what you see 2 d fixes and an occasional 3. Thas a pretty good clue. Regards Yes - I'm not too worried about that part in the sense that it's obvious I need a better signal Antenna is this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BNC-GPS-Antenna-5M-GARMIN-Streetpilot-GPSCOM-GPSMAP-/250687616146?pt=UK_CE_GPS_Accessories_Software_EThash=item3a5e257492 which is mentioned in David Taylor's article with the supplied 5M length of rather thin coax. Position was along the roofline of the garage - about 2M up but the garage roof obscures the view to the north and northeast, as I said. I'm going to look for a properly weatherproof antenna and put it on the garage apex - that's about 3.5M up and will have a much better view at the expense of needing 10-12M of cable run. But I was really hoping to cadge a copy of the manual. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rapco 1804m
On 03/06/12 21:41, gandal...@aol.com wrote: I have several of these, all work well, all take some time to settle down after the control LED comes up. I can't remember now if any of mine have shown fine either but have compared all with a trio of Thundebolts and all work well as I say. There's a manual for the Rb version available from at least two of the UK Ebay suppliers so worth asking if you bought from there. All you need is in the manual and the Rb command set is very similar to the OCXO version but I can let you have a pdf copy of the proper OCXO version manual next week if you don't get one before then. I'm away from home right now and internet is very hit and miss here but will be back Wednesday. regards Nigel GM8PZR With many thanks to David and Björn (both of whom can claim the beverage of their choice if we ever meet) I have a couple of copies of the manual which I'm now reading. I did contact the vendor - twice - although to be fair the second time was only this morning. However, as yet, I haven't had a reply. There seems to be only one seller on ebay at present - pre sales and delivery 10/10- but after sales is falling into the 6/10 could do better category. My current plan is a better antenna with a better position. Thanks once again to all. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
