[VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
I will try my best to keep active more. :) I'm working on a degree now in Med Lab Tech so I'm busy with clinicals and school.If I remember correctly the Eumer system of tubes were being produced with the help of a group of individuals with special needs so they could have the opportunity to be more independent and work. So that is part of the reason I believe they cost more. They really are unique but a little pricey. If you google Yuri or Jurij Shumakov you will find more sites that he has posted on in the past that have really nice tube fly patterns and information. A couple of years back I was able to trade some patterns with Hakan Norling and he is another great tyer to google. If you're just playing with tube flies you can use q tips and popsicle sticks or coffee stirs to see if you like them. Use a needle or if you have a long shanked eyeless spey hook that works really well to put in a vice and slide the tube on. I think they were the HE2 hooks but I'm not positive about that. Also before investing in a tube fly vice ... which I have... I still prefer to use the HMH tool to tie with because it is less bulky to carry and I can easily switch to a tube fly while using my Dyna King. It's a cheaper way to go and I don't have to carry two vises or a different head for my vise. Tube flies can be very addictive especially if you are looking for a new challenge. They allow you to be a lot more creative with your patterns and placement of your hooks without the constraints of matching a pattern to a hook. They also allow you to change the weight of your pattern and the way it will fish if you start using tube segments also or add cones to the front of your pattern. Try doing that with a hook eye on your pattern. LOL Just leave some tube exposed in the front and you can add a cone head stream side and if the hook is damaged you can just tie another one on and keep fishing. Get the right conehead and it will fit very tightly on the tube you may not even need to tie it in place. The same can be done with a popper foam head much like Cam Siegler uses on his saltwater tubes. Deb On Nov 12, 1:35 pm, ashley strutt galeforce1...@gmail.com wrote: Hey Deb, Nice to see you drop by, was hoping you would. The Eumer tube guys were at the British fly fair a couple of weeks ago. While I liked the look of the system, I to thought the price was a bit high. I'm sure I sure a similar system sold by Sparton Tackle in the UK but that was like years ago. I forgot about the Sawada book. Ashley On 11 November 2010 23:22, dsdur...@msn.com dsdur...@msn.com wrote: Hey, Ashley! Forgive me I don't know how to use this list very well. I do like to use tube flies on the Blues. They do have a junction tube connecting the hook to the tube with the crease fly pattern I tie but the Blue fish didn't seem to have any problems dislodging the fly if you get my meaning. LOL I have used them for bass and pan fish also. The junction tubing isn't always necessary (dependent on the pattern) but I liked Don O's idea of putting a bit of foam into the end of the tube to replace the bobber stopper idea they used to use. I may have to test that one out. I tie a lot on Yuri's tubes and on plastic tubes systems (Yuri also marketed these shortly before his death) there are a lot of companies out there that sell very cheap tubing to use for this purpose. There was also another company marketing a tube system that was somewhat interchangeable call Eumer tubes but they were ridiculously expensive. I have a few of them to show when I demo tube flies but I don't use them. The paint chips off way too easily and they weren't really good quality like Juri's. There is a Japanese book out on tube flies by Ken Sawada along with the two books I'm sure have already been mentioned by Mark Mandell and Les Johnson and I might mention that Paul Marriner has some nice examples of both tube flies and waddington shanks in his book. I could go on listing sources but those are my favorites along with the websites that have already been mentioned. I've been so tied up with school and I don't have a lot of time to even keep up with facebook but you can always tease me out from under my rock with tube flies. Miss you guys, Deb On Nov 9, 9:49 pm, Jack Lehman jklepo...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied. jack Austin On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote: Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them? Do you attach line with a loop, then
[VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
Deb and Others I attended a fly fishing show in Bellvue WA in February 2009 and while at the show, purchased a tube fly kit from the Eumer stand. I agree with Deb that the Eumer products are expensive and that the discs tend to chip easily. Since then, I have purchased some of the Mikael Frodin Fits tubes and accessories including Hakan Norling's step tapered needle. I am still playing around with both, but never seem to find enough time to do what I want and so it becomes a seasonal thing. Tubes for steelhead in the winter, Chironomid and attractors in the spring, dries nymphs in the summer, salmon flies in the fall and then start all over again. Neville (Nev) Gosling -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the VFB Mail group. To post to this group, send email to vfb-mail@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to vfb-mail-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com
Re: [VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
Hi Deb: Nice to hear from you. I sure miss your comments and hope you can find the time to participate more. Thank you, Alan Di Somma You know your a redneck when: You have the local taxidermist on speed dial... http://www.azflyfishing.net/ - Original Message - From: dsdur...@msn.com To: VFB Mail vfb-mail@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 4:22 PM Subject: [VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply Hey, Ashley! Forgive me I don't know how to use this list very well. I do like to use tube flies on the Blues. They do have a junction tube connecting the hook to the tube with the crease fly pattern I tie but the Blue fish didn't seem to have any problems dislodging the fly if you get my meaning. LOL I have used them for bass and pan fish also. The junction tubing isn't always necessary (dependent on the pattern) but I liked Don O's idea of putting a bit of foam into the end of the tube to replace the bobber stopper idea they used to use. I may have to test that one out. I tie a lot on Yuri's tubes and on plastic tubes systems (Yuri also marketed these shortly before his death) there are a lot of companies out there that sell very cheap tubing to use for this purpose. There was also another company marketing a tube system that was somewhat interchangeable call Eumer tubes but they were ridiculously expensive. I have a few of them to show when I demo tube flies but I don't use them. The paint chips off way too easily and they weren't really good quality like Juri's. There is a Japanese book out on tube flies by Ken Sawada along with the two books I'm sure have already been mentioned by Mark Mandell and Les Johnson and I might mention that Paul Marriner has some nice examples of both tube flies and waddington shanks in his book. I could go on listing sources but those are my favorites along with the websites that have already been mentioned. I've been so tied up with school and I don't have a lot of time to even keep up with facebook but you can always tease me out from under my rock with tube flies. Miss you guys, Deb On Nov 9, 9:49 pm, Jack Lehman jklepo...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied. jack Austin On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote: Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them? Do you attach line with a loop, then run it through the tube and thus have it ready when you need it on the stream? Inquiring minds want to know. I can speak to the crow bar effect..lost several great kings in AK with just that happening. They'd jump, swing their heads and then the hook would come flying out of their mouths. Got smart and used some rather shorter shanked Fat Alberts and egg sucking leeches to overcome the effect. Wish I lived close enough for a seminar on this aspect of tying. Joyce On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Don Ordes f...@tribcsp.com mailto:f...@tribcsp.com wrote: For any type of fishing, a drawback of long-shanked hooks is the 'crow-bar' effect. The pull against the eye of the hook is transferred to the bend with the shank acting as a lever against the fish's jaw. This can do a lot of damage to the fish if hooked solidly (wallow out a hole), or bend the shank, or leverage the bend and barb right out of the hook-set hole- again damaging the fish in the process. The bigger and stronger the fish is, the worse the problem is. A short shank hook keeps a hook-set better, especially with fish that roll. I've never witnessed a tuna rolling, though, LOL. (Shhh I have a new shrimp pattern in a tube design because I wanted to get away from long-shanked hooks just to get a tying platform.) Hooks can be selected for the quarry and fishing circumstance rather than pre-tied into the fly. You can change during fishing as you see the need. You may want to try a double hook, or a circle hook, or a smaller hook, etc., or change from freshwater bronze to saltwater alloy. Or, you can fish bronze hooks in saltwater, which would allow the hook to dissolve quickly if a fish breaks off, and you don't have to worry about a bronze hook corroding underneath the materials in a saltwater-fished fly. The tube-fly can also side up the tippet to get it away from the teeth once the hook-set is made. If the fly is tied on the +-side of neutral bouyancy, a broken off fly will float to the surface. But if you want this fly to sink while fishing, a heavy hook and some brass beads between the hook and tube will get it down to the fish, as in fising for Spanish Mackeral running 15' down. A tiny bit of foam glued into the end of the tube will keep
[VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
Deb: Good to hear your voice on the list. Are you back? Larry Johnson Springville, Utah dsdur...@msn.com 11/11/2010 4:22 PM Hey, Ashley! Forgive me I don't know how to use this list very well. I do like to use tube flies on the Blues. They do have a junction tube connecting the hook to the tube with the crease fly pattern I tie but the Blue fish didn't seem to have any problems dislodging the fly if you get my meaning. LOL I have used them for bass and pan fish also. The junction tubing isn't always necessary (dependent on the pattern) but I liked Don O's idea of putting a bit of foam into the end of the tube to replace the bobber stopper idea they used to use. I may have to test that one out. I tie a lot on Yuri's tubes and on plastic tubes systems (Yuri also marketed these shortly before his death) there are a lot of companies out there that sell very cheap tubing to use for this purpose. There was also another company marketing a tube system that was somewhat interchangeable call Eumer tubes but they were ridiculously expensive. I have a few of them to show when I demo tube flies but I don't use them. The paint chips off way too easily and they weren't really good quality like Juri's. There is a Japanese book out on tube flies by Ken Sawada along with the two books I'm sure have already been mentioned by Mark Mandell and Les Johnson and I might mention that Paul Marriner has some nice examples of both tube flies and waddington shanks in his book. I could go on listing sources but those are my favorites along with the websites that have already been mentioned. I've been so tied up with school and I don't have a lot of time to even keep up with facebook but you can always tease me out from under my rock with tube flies. Miss you guys, Deb On Nov 9, 9:49 pm, Jack Lehman jklepo...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied. jack Austin On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote: Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them? Do you attach line with a loop, then run it through the tube and thus have it ready when you need it on the stream? Inquiring minds want to know. I can speak to the crow bar effect..lost several great kings in AK with just that happening. They'd jump, swing their heads and then the hook would come flying out of their mouths. Got smart and used some rather shorter shanked Fat Alberts and egg sucking leeches to overcome the effect. Wish I lived close enough for a seminar on this aspect of tying. Joyce On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Don Ordes f...@tribcsp.com mailto:f...@tribcsp.com wrote: For any type of fishing, a drawback of long-shanked hooks is the 'crow-bar' effect. The pull against the eye of the hook is transferred to the bend with the shank acting as a lever against the fish's jaw. This can do a lot of damage to the fish if hooked solidly (wallow out a hole), or bend the shank, or leverage the bend and barb right out of the hook-set hole- again damaging the fish in the process. The bigger and stronger the fish is, the worse the problem is. A short shank hook keeps a hook-set better, especially with fish that roll. I've never witnessed a tuna rolling, though, LOL. (Shhh I have a new shrimp pattern in a tube design because I wanted to get away from long-shanked hooks just to get a tying platform.) Hooks can be selected for the quarry and fishing circumstance rather than pre-tied into the fly. You can change during fishing as you see the need. You may want to try a double hook, or a circle hook, or a smaller hook, etc., or change from freshwater bronze to saltwater alloy. Or, you can fish bronze hooks in saltwater, which would allow the hook to dissolve quickly if a fish breaks off, and you don't have to worry about a bronze hook corroding underneath the materials in a saltwater-fished fly. The tube-fly can also side up the tippet to get it away from the teeth once the hook-set is made. If the fly is tied on the +-side of neutral bouyancy, a broken off fly will float to the surface. But if you want this fly to sink while fishing, a heavy hook and some brass beads between the hook and tube will get it down to the fish, as in fising for Spanish Mackeral running 15' down. A tiny bit of foam glued into the end of the tube will keep a big hook from prematurely backing away from the tube during a strip-stop retreive or a long sink to the
Re: [VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
Hey Deb, Nice to see you drop by, was hoping you would. The Eumer tube guys were at the British fly fair a couple of weeks ago. While I liked the look of the system, I to thought the price was a bit high. I'm sure I sure a similar system sold by Sparton Tackle in the UK but that was like years ago. I forgot about the Sawada book. Ashley On 11 November 2010 23:22, dsdur...@msn.com dsdur...@msn.com wrote: Hey, Ashley! Forgive me I don't know how to use this list very well. I do like to use tube flies on the Blues. They do have a junction tube connecting the hook to the tube with the crease fly pattern I tie but the Blue fish didn't seem to have any problems dislodging the fly if you get my meaning. LOL I have used them for bass and pan fish also. The junction tubing isn't always necessary (dependent on the pattern) but I liked Don O's idea of putting a bit of foam into the end of the tube to replace the bobber stopper idea they used to use. I may have to test that one out. I tie a lot on Yuri's tubes and on plastic tubes systems (Yuri also marketed these shortly before his death) there are a lot of companies out there that sell very cheap tubing to use for this purpose. There was also another company marketing a tube system that was somewhat interchangeable call Eumer tubes but they were ridiculously expensive. I have a few of them to show when I demo tube flies but I don't use them. The paint chips off way too easily and they weren't really good quality like Juri's. There is a Japanese book out on tube flies by Ken Sawada along with the two books I'm sure have already been mentioned by Mark Mandell and Les Johnson and I might mention that Paul Marriner has some nice examples of both tube flies and waddington shanks in his book. I could go on listing sources but those are my favorites along with the websites that have already been mentioned. I've been so tied up with school and I don't have a lot of time to even keep up with facebook but you can always tease me out from under my rock with tube flies. Miss you guys, Deb On Nov 9, 9:49 pm, Jack Lehman jklepo...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied. jack Austin On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote: Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them? Do you attach line with a loop, then run it through the tube and thus have it ready when you need it on the stream? Inquiring minds want to know. I can speak to the crow bar effect..lost several great kings in AK with just that happening. They'd jump, swing their heads and then the hook would come flying out of their mouths. Got smart and used some rather shorter shanked Fat Alberts and egg sucking leeches to overcome the effect. Wish I lived close enough for a seminar on this aspect of tying. Joyce On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Don Ordes f...@tribcsp.com mailto:f...@tribcsp.com wrote: For any type of fishing, a drawback of long-shanked hooks is the 'crow-bar' effect. The pull against the eye of the hook is transferred to the bend with the shank acting as a lever against the fish's jaw. This can do a lot of damage to the fish if hooked solidly (wallow out a hole), or bend the shank, or leverage the bend and barb right out of the hook-set hole- again damaging the fish in the process. The bigger and stronger the fish is, the worse the problem is. A short shank hook keeps a hook-set better, especially with fish that roll. I've never witnessed a tuna rolling, though, LOL. (Shhh I have a new shrimp pattern in a tube design because I wanted to get away from long-shanked hooks just to get a tying platform.) Hooks can be selected for the quarry and fishing circumstance rather than pre-tied into the fly. You can change during fishing as you see the need. You may want to try a double hook, or a circle hook, or a smaller hook, etc., or change from freshwater bronze to saltwater alloy. Or, you can fish bronze hooks in saltwater, which would allow the hook to dissolve quickly if a fish breaks off, and you don't have to worry about a bronze hook corroding underneath the materials in a saltwater-fished fly. The tube-fly can also side up the tippet to get it away from the teeth once the hook-set is made. If the fly is tied on the +-side of neutral bouyancy, a broken off fly will float to the surface. But if you want this fly to
[VFB] Re: now tube flies- reply
Hey, Ashley! Forgive me I don't know how to use this list very well. I do like to use tube flies on the Blues. They do have a junction tube connecting the hook to the tube with the crease fly pattern I tie but the Blue fish didn't seem to have any problems dislodging the fly if you get my meaning. LOL I have used them for bass and pan fish also. The junction tubing isn't always necessary (dependent on the pattern) but I liked Don O's idea of putting a bit of foam into the end of the tube to replace the bobber stopper idea they used to use. I may have to test that one out. I tie a lot on Yuri's tubes and on plastic tubes systems (Yuri also marketed these shortly before his death) there are a lot of companies out there that sell very cheap tubing to use for this purpose. There was also another company marketing a tube system that was somewhat interchangeable call Eumer tubes but they were ridiculously expensive. I have a few of them to show when I demo tube flies but I don't use them. The paint chips off way too easily and they weren't really good quality like Juri's. There is a Japanese book out on tube flies by Ken Sawada along with the two books I'm sure have already been mentioned by Mark Mandell and Les Johnson and I might mention that Paul Marriner has some nice examples of both tube flies and waddington shanks in his book. I could go on listing sources but those are my favorites along with the websites that have already been mentioned. I've been so tied up with school and I don't have a lot of time to even keep up with facebook but you can always tease me out from under my rock with tube flies. Miss you guys, Deb On Nov 9, 9:49 pm, Jack Lehman jklepo...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied. jack Austin On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote: Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them? Do you attach line with a loop, then run it through the tube and thus have it ready when you need it on the stream? Inquiring minds want to know. I can speak to the crow bar effect..lost several great kings in AK with just that happening. They'd jump, swing their heads and then the hook would come flying out of their mouths. Got smart and used some rather shorter shanked Fat Alberts and egg sucking leeches to overcome the effect. Wish I lived close enough for a seminar on this aspect of tying. Joyce On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Don Ordes f...@tribcsp.com mailto:f...@tribcsp.com wrote: For any type of fishing, a drawback of long-shanked hooks is the 'crow-bar' effect. The pull against the eye of the hook is transferred to the bend with the shank acting as a lever against the fish's jaw. This can do a lot of damage to the fish if hooked solidly (wallow out a hole), or bend the shank, or leverage the bend and barb right out of the hook-set hole- again damaging the fish in the process. The bigger and stronger the fish is, the worse the problem is. A short shank hook keeps a hook-set better, especially with fish that roll. I've never witnessed a tuna rolling, though, LOL. (Shhh I have a new shrimp pattern in a tube design because I wanted to get away from long-shanked hooks just to get a tying platform.) Hooks can be selected for the quarry and fishing circumstance rather than pre-tied into the fly. You can change during fishing as you see the need. You may want to try a double hook, or a circle hook, or a smaller hook, etc., or change from freshwater bronze to saltwater alloy. Or, you can fish bronze hooks in saltwater, which would allow the hook to dissolve quickly if a fish breaks off, and you don't have to worry about a bronze hook corroding underneath the materials in a saltwater-fished fly. The tube-fly can also side up the tippet to get it away from the teeth once the hook-set is made. If the fly is tied on the +-side of neutral bouyancy, a broken off fly will float to the surface. But if you want this fly to sink while fishing, a heavy hook and some brass beads between the hook and tube will get it down to the fish, as in fising for Spanish Mackeral running 15' down. A tiny bit of foam glued into the end of the tube will keep a big hook from prematurely backing away from the tube during a strip-stop retreive or a long sink to the zone. Tube flies can also be tied articulated, actually stacked. For example, you could have a 2-part squid (tentacles
