Microsoft Outlook Web Access
I frequently have to access emails via webmail. I don't know anything about the website, except that it seems to use Microsoft Outlook Web Access. I can read the emails, but cannot open any of the attachments. When I click on the attachment, the following message appears To open this attachment, you must save it to your disk. Right-click the link, and then click Save. With a single-button mouse, hold the button down over the link, and then click Save. I'm using Mac OS 10.7.4 on a 17MacBook Pro. I don't own a mouse, but rely on track pad. Tips on how to open the attachment would be welcomed. Regards, Michael Hawkins. -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug
Re: Microsoft Outlook Web Access
Hi Have you tried Ctrl+mouse click at the same time ? That is Control button and click with your mouse - might show a small menu of options. Brian Sent from my iPhone On 20/07/2012, at 20:44, Michael Hawkins michael.hawk...@mjhawkins.com.au wrote: I frequently have to access emails via webmail. I don't know anything about the website, except that it seems to use Microsoft Outlook Web Access. I can read the emails, but cannot open any of the attachments. When I click on the attachment, the following message appears To open this attachment, you must save it to your disk. Right-click the link, and then click Save. With a single-button mouse, hold the button down over the link, and then click Save. I'm using Mac OS 10.7.4 on a 17MacBook Pro. I don't own a mouse, but rely on track pad. Tips on how to open the attachment would be welcomed. Regards, Michael Hawkins. -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug
Re: Microsoft Outlook Web Access
Other optio,n tap two fingers on mouse/ track-pad also same as right click - to bring up an option menu. Brian Sent from my iPhone On 20/07/2012, at 20:44, Michael Hawkins michael.hawk...@mjhawkins.com.au wrote: I frequently have to access emails via webmail. I don't know anything about the website, except that it seems to use Microsoft Outlook Web Access. I can read the emails, but cannot open any of the attachments. When I click on the attachment, the following message appears To open this attachment, you must save it to your disk. Right-click the link, and then click Save. With a single-button mouse, hold the button down over the link, and then click Save. I'm using Mac OS 10.7.4 on a 17MacBook Pro. I don't own a mouse, but rely on track pad. Tips on how to open the attachment would be welcomed. Regards, Michael Hawkins. -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug
Re: Microsoft Outlook Web Access
Brilliant! Both suggestions worked! Thank you. $30 well spent ... now for a coffee to celebrate. Regards, Michael. On 20/07/2012, at 8:56 PM, Brian Risbey wrote: Other optio,n tap two fingers on mouse/ track-pad also same as right click - to bring up an option menu. Brian Sent from my iPhone On 20/07/2012, at 20:44, Michael Hawkins michael.hawk...@mjhawkins.com.au wrote: I frequently have to access emails via webmail. I don't know anything about the website, except that it seems to use Microsoft Outlook Web Access. I can read the emails, but cannot open any of the attachments. When I click on the attachment, the following message appears To open this attachment, you must save it to your disk. Right-click the link, and then click Save. With a single-button mouse, hold the button down over the link, and then click Save. I'm using Mac OS 10.7.4 on a 17MacBook Pro. I don't own a mouse, but rely on track pad. Tips on how to open the attachment would be welcomed. Regards, Michael Hawkins. -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug -- The WA Macintosh User Group Mailing List -- Archives - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/archives.shtml Guidelines - http://www.wamug.org.au/mailinglist/guidelines.shtml Settings Unsubscribe - http://lists.wamug.org.au/listinfo/wamug.org.au-wamug
Re: Loosing Wi-Fi connection
Good afternoon Ronni. Sorry to be so long reporting back but I was laid up for a few days. I downloaded iStumble and find that my router is on channel 11 with a signal of 65% (even though it is only 4 meters away), another also on channel 11 at 30% signal and a third at 13%. They are all WAP secure Thompson routers on Bigpond accounts. I have also noticed that the signal throughout the house is very weak in the front rooms, down to 1 bar only. So before I start mucking about with the channels I am wondering if I would be better off getting a new router that has a greater range or getting a range boosting device I have seen at Dick Smiths for about $128. While I have been contemplating the options I have noticed that the iMac has stopped loosing Wi-Fi connection and that it is now playing U-Tube videos without the continuous stalling I was asking about earlier. I am leaning towards a new router with the 5GHz/2.5GHz capability but conversations I have had with salesmen is usually based on their personal experience and i am yet to find one who impressed me as knowing more about than I do, their advice is not always as helpful as it should be, the end result is, choosing which one to purchase is a very hit and miss proposition. Another problem with choosing is the huge price range the come in, and the information printed on the packaging which all seems to say much the same thing in different ways that gives the average punter a lot of meaningless information. If anyone can give me a clue on which one to look at it will be appreciated. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:34 PM, iCloud wrote: Thanks again Ronni, I will report back tomorrow. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:26 PM, Ronda Brown wrote: Hi Adrian, Thanks for the information. Unfortunately from the information you have given below the Router is only capable of a 802.11b/g - 2.5GHz wireless network. NOT a Dual-Band 802.11b/g/n - 5GHz - 2.5GHz Wireless Network. If this is the case, the only option you have is to perhaps try changing the Channel from 11- to channel 1 or 6 or 13 which don't overlap, and see if it makes a difference. If the channel numbers are 5 or more apart, they don't overlap each other. If they are less than than 5 apart, they do and you'll get interference. You can download iStumbler http://istumbler.net which will show any other wireless Networks (neighbours) within range of your Network and show if they are using Channel 11. If so you need to select a channel away from 11. But, if this problem has only arisen since you updated to OS X 10.7.4 I would think it is not due to channel or 2.5GHz wireless network; but with the Wi-Fi driver IO80211Family.kext (version 4.2) that ships with OS X 10.7.4. Some iMac users have found replacing this .kext file with IO80211Family.kext (version 4.1.2) which came with OS X 10.7.3 stopped the Wi-Fi drops. Test with trying different channels to see if it helps. Cheers, Ronni Sent from Ronni's iPad On 15/07/2012, at 6:55 PM, iCloud adrianske...@me.com wrote: Thanks Ronni, It took me a while to get into the router at http://10.0.0.138. Hopefully the following is what you are looking for, I have inserted a ✔ for checked boxes and buttons. Wireless Access Point - BigPondD96B52 Configuration Interface Enabled:Yes Physical Address:00:24:17:47:A3:8B Network Name (SSID):BigPondD96B52 Interface Type:802.11b/g Actual Speed:54 Mbps Band:2.4G Hz Security Allow New Devices:New stations are allowed (automatically) Security Mode:WPA-PSK __ Wireless Access Point - BigPondD96B52 Configuration Interface Enabled:✔ Physical Address:00:24:17:47:A3:8B Network Name (SSID):BigPondD96B52 Interface Type:802.11b/g Actual Speed:54 Mbps Band:2.4G Hz Channel Selection:Manual ✔ (alternative: Automatic) Region:Europe Channel:11 (1 to 13 available) Allow multicast from Broadband Network:✔ Security Broadcast Network Name:✔ Allow New Devices:(New stations are allowed automatically) Encryption: Disabled Use WEP Encryption Use WPA-PSK Encryption:✔ WPA-PSK Encryption Key:✔ WPA-PSK Version:WPA Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 4:30 PM, Ronda Brown wrote: Hi Adrian, Without knowing how you have setup your Wireless Network? What are the settings... Is it 802.11b/g/n 5GHz 2.4GHz? What encryption (Security) are you using (WPA2-PSK Encryption or ?) To access the Thompson Gateway GUI (Graphical User Interface): 1. Open your web browser. 2. Browse to the IP address of your Thomson Gateway (by default: 192.168.1.254). 3. If you have protected your
Re: Loosing Wi-Fi connection
Hi Adrian, First change the Channel to Channel 1 see what difference it makes, so we know the result please. Just go into the Modem's settings Channel and change it from 11 to 1. Then save the settings and reboot the Modem. Then yes, do upgrade to a Modem / Router that has Dual-Band Wireless Network capability. I prefer to use a Netgear Modem to connect to the internet and then use a Time Capsule or Airport Extreme Dual-Band to setup a Simultaneous Dual-Band Wireless Network. The Apple Device then handles the Wireless Network. Another option (which I did for my Son-n-Law awhile ago) is purchase a Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router and setup it up to handle everything. I used to have the same Netgear Modem/Router, but didn't use the Wireless (turned wireless Off on the Netgear) as I had a 1TB Time Capsule used it for the Dual-Band Wi-Fi Network. Cheers, Ronni On 21/07/2012, at 10:47 AM, iCloud wrote: Good afternoon Ronni. Sorry to be so long reporting back but I was laid up for a few days. I downloaded iStumble and find that my router is on channel 11 with a signal of 65% (even though it is only 4 meters away), another also on channel 11 at 30% signal and a third at 13%. They are all WAP secure Thompson routers on Bigpond accounts. I have also noticed that the signal throughout the house is very weak in the front rooms, down to 1 bar only. So before I start mucking about with the channels I am wondering if I would be better off getting a new router that has a greater range or getting a range boosting device I have seen at Dick Smiths for about $128. While I have been contemplating the options I have noticed that the iMac has stopped loosing Wi-Fi connection and that it is now playing U-Tube videos without the continuous stalling I was asking about earlier. I am leaning towards a new router with the 5GHz/2.5GHz capability but conversations I have had with salesmen is usually based on their personal experience and i am yet to find one who impressed me as knowing more about than I do, their advice is not always as helpful as it should be, the end result is, choosing which one to purchase is a very hit and miss proposition. Another problem with choosing is the huge price range the come in, and the information printed on the packaging which all seems to say much the same thing in different ways that gives the average punter a lot of meaningless information. If anyone can give me a clue on which one to look at it will be appreciated. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:34 PM, iCloud wrote: Thanks again Ronni, I will report back tomorrow. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:26 PM, Ronda Brown wrote: Hi Adrian, Thanks for the information. Unfortunately from the information you have given below the Router is only capable of a 802.11b/g - 2.5GHz wireless network. NOT a Dual-Band 802.11b/g/n - 5GHz - 2.5GHz Wireless Network. If this is the case, the only option you have is to perhaps try changing the Channel from 11- to channel 1 or 6 or 13 which don't overlap, and see if it makes a difference. If the channel numbers are 5 or more apart, they don't overlap each other. If they are less than than 5 apart, they do and you'll get interference. You can download iStumbler http://istumbler.net which will show any other wireless Networks (neighbours) within range of your Network and show if they are using Channel 11. If so you need to select a channel away from 11. But, if this problem has only arisen since you updated to OS X 10.7.4 I would think it is not due to channel or 2.5GHz wireless network; but with the Wi-Fi driver IO80211Family.kext (version 4.2) that ships with OS X 10.7.4. Some iMac users have found replacing this .kext file with IO80211Family.kext (version 4.1.2) which came with OS X 10.7.3 stopped the Wi-Fi drops. Test with trying different channels to see if it helps. Cheers, Ronni Sent from Ronni's iPad On 15/07/2012, at 6:55 PM, iCloud adrianske...@me.com wrote: Thanks Ronni, It took me a while to get into the router at http://10.0.0.138. Hopefully the following is what you are looking for, I have inserted a ✔ for checked boxes and buttons. Wireless Access Point - BigPondD96B52 Configuration Interface Enabled:Yes Physical Address:00:24:17:47:A3:8B Network Name (SSID):BigPondD96B52 Interface Type:802.11b/g Actual Speed:54 Mbps Band:2.4G Hz Security Allow New Devices:New stations are allowed (automatically) Security Mode:WPA-PSK __ Wireless Access Point - BigPondD96B52 Configuration Interface Enabled:✔ Physical Address:00:24:17:47:A3:8B Network Name (SSID):BigPondD96B52 Interface Type:802.11b/g
Re: Loosing Wi-Fi connection
Hi Adrian Definitely go a different channel if others have the same one, it just means you're not all operating in the same space. If I find clients wireless on the same channel as others I tend to change theirs to 5, 7 or 8. Not many seem to work in that. If you're looking at getting a new router definitely go for one that is dual band wireless. This means the one router can separate the wireless channels. ie computers that are 802.11n capabable go in the 5GHz range and devices that are 892.11a/b/g go in the 2.4GHz range. It's the one device but does it better. Otherwise what happens is if it's not dual band then even if it can handle the 5GHz range as soon as an older device joins the whole network slows down to 2.4GHz. I just recently changed a client over from the older Airport Express to the new Airport Express (Dual band) for the exact reason above. Their range kept dropping out and slowing, yet most of their machines were all new. But the wireless printer wasn't. So it slowed the whole network down. We swapped out to the new wireless unit ($119) keeping their same modem and their range improved about 150% and faster speeds! If you're replacing the modem then the ones I tend to recommend for clients are Netgear. They work really well and have great back up support. Others I've also used or recommended are TP-Link, Belkin and D-Link (though D-link tend to be a last resort). Ones I tend to avoid (for personal reasons of bad service, bad runs with them) are Netcomm. (and I'd add D-Link in here too sometimes lol). You will pay a bit more for a modem that is Dual Link wireless, but it's worth it! Arrr salespeople - gotta love em. :) I had a similar experience in an Apple reseller recently when I urgently needed a USB to Ethernet adapter so rushed in to a store to grab one for a job, only to be to advised I was wrong and no one made such a thing. (even when I said Apple had been making one for years and I know as I've sold them and used them I just needed a second one to do a job). I finally got the person to look it up ( and I even gave her the part number from my the website that I quickly looked up on my iPhone). And sure enough, they did carry them but none in stock as she'd sold the last one yesterday. (I couldn't help but laugh). Sorry, I digress..,,lol But yes, definitely look at one with dual band wireless. Netgear I believe it's the N300 or N600 series. DGN3700 or higher I think from memory. Hope that helps. Kind regards Daniel Sent from my iPhone 4s --- Daniel Kerr MacWizardry Phone: 0414 795 960 Email: dan...@macwizardry.com.au Web: http://www.macwizardry.com.au ** For Everything Apple ** On 21/07/2012, at 10:47 AM, iCloud adrianske...@me.com wrote: Good afternoon Ronni. Sorry to be so long reporting back but I was laid up for a few days. I downloaded iStumble and find that my router is on channel 11 with a signal of 65% (even though it is only 4 meters away), another also on channel 11 at 30% signal and a third at 13%. They are all WAP secure Thompson routers on Bigpond accounts. I have also noticed that the signal throughout the house is very weak in the front rooms, down to 1 bar only. So before I start mucking about with the channels I am wondering if I would be better off getting a new router that has a greater range or getting a range boosting device I have seen at Dick Smiths for about $128. While I have been contemplating the options I have noticed that the iMac has stopped loosing Wi-Fi connection and that it is now playing U-Tube videos without the continuous stalling I was asking about earlier. I am leaning towards a new router with the 5GHz/2.5GHz capability but conversations I have had with salesmen is usually based on their personal experience and i am yet to find one who impressed me as knowing more about than I do, their advice is not always as helpful as it should be, the end result is, choosing which one to purchase is a very hit and miss proposition. Another problem with choosing is the huge price range the come in, and the information printed on the packaging which all seems to say much the same thing in different ways that gives the average punter a lot of meaningless information. If anyone can give me a clue on which one to look at it will be appreciated. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:34 PM, iCloud wrote: Thanks again Ronni, I will report back tomorrow. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 15/07/2012, at 8:26 PM, Ronda Brown wrote: Hi Adrian, Thanks for the information. Unfortunately from the information you have given below the Router is only capable of a 802.11b/g - 2.5GHz wireless network. NOT a Dual-Band 802.11b/g/n - 5GHz - 2.5GHz Wireless Network. If this is the case, the only option you have is to perhaps try changing the Channel from 11- to channel 1 or 6 or 13
Re: Time Machine/Time Capsule problem
Hi Rosemary, I'm trying to remember what size Time Capsule a 500GB, a 1TB or 2TB? I think it is only 500GB and you have been backing up two complete systems (2 Macs) for some time. Each time you have 'Repaired' the sparsebundle in Disk Utility on both Macs, what errors did you receive? Are they always the same errors? Also did you Check the DHCP client list on the Time Capsule and see if both devices are on it? And can you connect to the time capsule directly to establish a connection? GO, Connect to Server, afp://xxx.xxx.x.x (whatever your Time Capsule's IP Address is in Airport Utility) Rosemary, I can only do so much via email, it might be worth getting someone to check your Network and Time Capsule Time Machine backups for you. If it was me, I would do a Bootable Backup of each Mac and then delete the sparsebundles and start again with a fresh Time Machine backup. And if it is only a 500GB TC, just backup ONE computer (the smaller size backup Mac) to the TC Internal Disk and use a USB 1TB or 2TB USB disk set up as an Air Disk to back up the larger of the two Macs' system. If you require details how to delete sparsebundles and how to format setup an Air Disk post back or start a new subject thread. Cheers, Ronni On 20/07/2012, at 5:20 PM, Rosemary Spark wrote: Ronda, Maybe trying to back up at the same time, but that never cause problems before. Check the IP address and subnet of both your Macs (working) and (not working) Ensure that the subnet mask is the same on both and that the Mac has a valid IP address etc. Settings for both computers are the same. You did not try reconfigure your Network that I suggested originally did you? Yes, I did this for both machines hen you suggested it. The I recycled the Time Capsule (again!) and backup worked on both machines for two days, then have both failed again with the same error messages. There was a problem connecting to the server Check the server name or IP address sparse bundle can't be accessed Error -1 There is no trouble with the network, wireless continues to work fine..(other than the ADSL2 is a joke because we're at the end of the line ... but that has always been the case.) I'm fearing the Time Capsule is failing. Rosemary Spark PO Box 781 South Fremantle WA 6162 Australia Phone: + 61 8 94336609 Mobile: 0414268043 arkaysp...@gmail.com On 12 July 2012 06:52, Ronda Brown ro...@mac.com wrote: When you mention both backed up after a restart and then your backup 'choked'... Are both Macs trying to back up at the same time? Seems to me that you are loosing connection, not getting an IP address. You need to check all the Network settings, on your Modem and Time Capsule, and on both Macs, something is not right. Cheers, Ronni Sent from Ronni's iPad On 12/07/2012, at 6:40 AM, Ronda Brown ro...@mac.com wrote: Hi Rosemary, Check the IP address and subnet of both your Macs (working) and (not working) Ensure that the subnet mask is the same on both and that the Mac has a valid IP address etc. Also check the DHCP client list on the TimeCapsule and see if both devices are on it. When it happens again...Check the server name and IP address, check your network connection, and then try again. You did not try reconfigure your Network that I suggested originally did you? Disk not configured Is that the complete message or is it: Red i message: Time Machine could not be configured. The built-in network interface could not be found? 1. From the Finder's Go menu go to this location: /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/ 2. Copy the file NetworkInterfaces.plist to the desktop (to make a precautionary backup). 3. Delete the file NetworkInterfaces.plist. Enter administrator name and password if prompted. 4. Restart your Mac. 5. Once restarted, reconfigure your Network and Time Machine preference panes in System Preferences. 6. Check that your Network is working ok and you are online. 7. See if you can select your TM backup disk and do a backup. Let me know the result of these please. Cheers, Ronni Sent from Ronni's iPad On 11/07/2012, at 9:59 PM, Rosemary Spark arkaysp...@gmail.com wrote: Ronni, It has alternated. Just now, it's just on mine. Well for a brief time they both backed up after re-starting and then mine choked again. Rosemary Spark PO Box 781 South Fremantle WA 6162 Australia Phone: + 61 8 94336609 Mobile: 0414268043 arkaysp...@gmail.com On 11 July 2012 11:19, Ronda Brown ro...@mac.com wrote: Hi Rosemary, Are you receiving this message on both TM Backups... (on both computers)? There was a problem connecting to the server Check the server name or IP address If you restart the Time Capsule do you still receive this message? Cheers, Ronni On 10/07/2012, at 10:03 PM, Rosemary Spark wrote: OK, I've gone through all the steps but back to same point Are you
Re: Loosing Wi-Fi connection
Thanks Ronni Daniel I have changed the channel to 1 and the signal went up to 75% (varying between 73% 78%) and the range went up a notch, the other 2 stations are at 22% 23%. Would I be correct in thinking that if I selected channel 2 the result could be improved even more? I will have a look at Netgear next week and see what happens. The more I get to know about these things the better sport some of these salesmen become. Regards, Adrian Skehan adrianske...@me.com On 21/07/2012, at 11:13 AM, Daniel Kerr wrote: Hi Adrian Definitely go a different channel if others have the same one, it just means you're not all operating in the same space. If I find clients wireless on the same channel as others I tend to change theirs to 5, 7 or 8. Not many seem to work in that. If you're looking at getting a new router definitely go for one that is dual band wireless. This means the one router can separate the wireless channels. ie computers that are 802.11n capabable go in the 5GHz range and devices that are 892.11a/b/g go in the 2.4GHz range. It's the one device but does it better. Otherwise what happens is if it's not dual band then even if it can handle the 5GHz range as soon as an older device joins the whole network slows down to 2.4GHz. I just recently changed a client over from the older Airport Express to the new Airport Express (Dual band) for the exact reason above. Their range kept dropping out and slowing, yet most of their machines were all new. But the wireless printer wasn't. So it slowed the whole network down. We swapped out to the new wireless unit ($119) keeping their same modem and their range improved about 150% and faster speeds! If you're replacing the modem then the ones I tend to recommend for clients are Netgear. They work really well and have great back up support. Others I've also used or recommended are TP-Link, Belkin and D-Link (though D-link tend to be a last resort). Ones I tend to avoid (for personal reasons of bad service, bad runs with them) are Netcomm. (and I'd add D-Link in here too sometimes lol). You will pay a bit more for a modem that is Dual Link wireless, but it's worth it! Arrr salespeople - gotta love em. :) I had a similar experience in an Apple reseller recently when I urgently needed a USB to Ethernet adapter so rushed in to a store to grab one for a job, only to be to advised I was wrong and no one made such a thing. (even when I said Apple had been making one for years and I know as I've sold them and used them I just needed a second one to do a job). I finally got the person to look it up ( and I even gave her the part number from my the website that I quickly looked up on my iPhone). And sure enough, they did carry them but none in stock as she'd sold the last one yesterday. (I couldn't help but laugh). Sorry, I digress..,,lol But yes, definitely look at one with dual band wireless. Netgear I believe it's the N300 or N600 series. DGN3700 or higher I think from memory. Hope that helps. Kind regards Daniel Sent from my iPhone 4s --- Daniel Kerr MacWizardry Phone: 0414 795 960 Email: dan...@macwizardry.com.au Web: http://www.macwizardry.com.au ** For Everything Apple ** On 21/07/2012, at 10:47 AM, iCloud adrianske...@me.com wrote: Good afternoon Ronni. Sorry to be so long reporting back but I was laid up for a few days. I downloaded iStumble and find that my router is on channel 11 with a signal of 65% (even though it is only 4 meters away), another also on channel 11 at 30% signal and a third at 13%. They are all WAP secure Thompson routers on Bigpond accounts. I have also noticed that the signal throughout the house is very weak in the front rooms, down to 1 bar only. So before I start mucking about with the channels I am wondering if I would be better off getting a new router that has a greater range or getting a range boosting device I have seen at Dick Smiths for about $128. While I have been contemplating the options I have noticed that the iMac has stopped loosing Wi-Fi connection and that it is now playing U-Tube videos without the continuous stalling I was asking about earlier. I am leaning towards a new router with the 5GHz/2.5GHz capability but conversations I have had with salesmen is usually based on their personal experience and i am yet to find one who impressed me as knowing more about than I do, their advice is not always as helpful as it should be, the end result is, choosing which one to purchase is a very hit and miss proposition. Another problem with choosing is the huge price range the come in, and the information printed on the packaging which all seems to say much the same thing in different ways that gives the average punter a lot of meaningless information. If anyone can give me a clue on which one to look at it will be appreciated. Regards,
Re: Loosing Wi-Fi connection
Hi Adrian, On 21/07/2012, at 12:22 PM, iCloud wrote: Thanks Ronni Daniel I have changed the channel to 1 and the signal went up to 75% (varying between 73% 78%) and the range went up a notch, the other 2 stations are at 22% 23%. Would I be correct in thinking that if I selected channel 2 the result could be improved even more? No, I don't think it would improve, as I mentioned in a previous email to you: the only option you have is to perhaps try changing the Channel from 11- to channel 1 or 6 or 13 which don't overlap, and see if it makes a difference. If the channel numbers are 5 or more apart, they don't overlap each other. If they are less than than 5 apart, they do and you'll get interference. Cheers, Ronni I will have a look at Netgear next week and see what happens. The more I get to know about these things the better sport some of these salesmen become. On 21/07/2012, at 11:13 AM, Daniel Kerr wrote: Hi Adrian Definitely go a different channel if others have the same one, it just means you're not all operating in the same space. If I find clients wireless on the same channel as others I tend to change theirs to 5, 7 or 8. Not many seem to work in that. If you're looking at getting a new router definitely go for one that is dual band wireless. This means the one router can separate the wireless channels. ie computers that are 802.11n capabable go in the 5GHz range and devices that are 892.11a/b/g go in the 2.4GHz range. It's the one device but does it better. Otherwise what happens is if it's not dual band then even if it can handle the 5GHz range as soon as an older device joins the whole network slows down to 2.4GHz. I just recently changed a client over from the older Airport Express to the new Airport Express (Dual band) for the exact reason above. Their range kept dropping out and slowing, yet most of their machines were all new. But the wireless printer wasn't. So it slowed the whole network down. We swapped out to the new wireless unit ($119) keeping their same modem and their range improved about 150% and faster speeds! If you're replacing the modem then the ones I tend to recommend for clients are Netgear. They work really well and have great back up support. Others I've also used or recommended are TP-Link, Belkin and D-Link (though D-link tend to be a last resort). Ones I tend to avoid (for personal reasons of bad service, bad runs with them) are Netcomm. (and I'd add D-Link in here too sometimes lol). You will pay a bit more for a modem that is Dual Link wireless, but it's worth it! Arrr salespeople - gotta love em. :) I had a similar experience in an Apple reseller recently when I urgently needed a USB to Ethernet adapter so rushed in to a store to grab one for a job, only to be to advised I was wrong and no one made such a thing. (even when I said Apple had been making one for years and I know as I've sold them and used them I just needed a second one to do a job). I finally got the person to look it up ( and I even gave her the part number from my the website that I quickly looked up on my iPhone). And sure enough, they did carry them but none in stock as she'd sold the last one yesterday. (I couldn't help but laugh). Sorry, I digress..,,lol But yes, definitely look at one with dual band wireless. Netgear I believe it's the N300 or N600 series. DGN3700 or higher I think from memory. Hope that helps. Kind regards Daniel Sent from my iPhone 4s --- Daniel Kerr MacWizardry Phone: 0414 795 960 Email: dan...@macwizardry.com.au Web: http://www.macwizardry.com.au ** For Everything Apple ** On 21/07/2012, at 10:47 AM, iCloud adrianske...@me.com wrote: Good afternoon Ronni. Sorry to be so long reporting back but I was laid up for a few days. I downloaded iStumble and find that my router is on channel 11 with a signal of 65% (even though it is only 4 meters away), another also on channel 11 at 30% signal and a third at 13%. They are all WAP secure Thompson routers on Bigpond accounts. I have also noticed that the signal throughout the house is very weak in the front rooms, down to 1 bar only. So before I start mucking about with the channels I am wondering if I would be better off getting a new router that has a greater range or getting a range boosting device I have seen at Dick Smiths for about $128. While I have been contemplating the options I have noticed that the iMac has stopped loosing Wi-Fi connection and that it is now playing U-Tube videos without the continuous stalling I was asking about earlier. I am leaning towards a new router with the 5GHz/2.5GHz capability but conversations I have had with salesmen is usually based on their personal experience and i am yet to find one who impressed me as knowing more about than I do, their advice is not always as helpful as it should be, the end result is,
