In a message dated 5/21/02 7:45:59 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Steve - Aren't there also incubated bacteria added to this brew? -Allan
>>
I believe that Pfeiffer isolated the bacteria and fungi active in 500 after
the stirring process and/or from the raw form...sstorch
>>I recommend spaders. Absolutely. Best tillage action I've ever seen. A
>>spader's a little slow, but it does everything in one pass.
>
>How slow, Hugh? How slow do you go and how are you able to go so slow?
>
>Allan, the curious Celli user
Allan,
Good question. I can go VERY slow since I have
Thanks Allan and Steve - you have answered a question which no-one has been
able to for the last 10 years. I'll stick with becoming a dedicated "prep"
and BC user thanks.
Stephen Barrow
At JPI they have a refrigerator full of bacterial and
(probably) fungal cultures that are a huge (important)
part of the Pfeiffer recipe.
Chris
--- Allan Balliett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >The recipes for these things are proprietary.
> Pfeiffer had a partner in the
> >General Compost Corp w
>The recipes for these things are proprietary. Pfeiffer had a partner in the
>General Compost Corp who is still alive and guarding the information. From
>what I know there is the bd remedies and lots of sprouted seeds and a ground
>hog or similar substitute, +++ that get composted and run throug
In a message dated 5/21/02 7:21:35 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< How slow, Hugh? How slow do you go and how are you able to go so slow?
>>
sounds like the opener for a new Dr. Suess book...sstorch
In a message dated 5/20/02 1:21:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< What is the recipe for the Pfeiffer Field Spray and his Compost Starter? I
have read of them, but have no idea how to go about making them
>>
The recipes for these things are proprietary. Pfeiffer had a partner in the
>I recommend spaders. Absolutely. Best tillage action I've ever seen. A
>spader's a little slow, but it does everything in one pass.
How slow, Hugh? How slow do you go and how are you able to go so slow?
Allan, the curious Celli user
gt;
>Cheryl Kemp
>Education and Workshop Coordinator
>BDFGAA
>Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322
>Home: 02 6657 5306
>email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>web: www.biodynamics.net.au
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[E
Thanks Lloyd - your suggestion of the straw chopper off a combine is
definitely worth looking into..
Stephen Barrow
> Thus, optimised compost making, with minimised energy and labour inputs
are
> essential. Therefore sieving is just an extra handling process, which I
> don't want to get into. I have had this experience in an urban garden and
> simply cannot afford to go that route now that I am working a lar
>Allan,
>
>What is the recipe for the Pfeiffer Field Spray and his Compost Starter? I
>have read of them, but have no idea how to go about making them
>
>Thanks
>
>Stephen Barrow
Stephen - As far as I know, this is a proprietary product. I buy mine
from JPI in Woolwine.
I do not have real
Allan,
What is the recipe for the Pfeiffer Field Spray and his Compost Starter? I
have read of them, but have no idea how to go about making them
Thanks
Stephen Barrow
>I have also seen rye rolled to kill it, and then
>tomatoes planted into the yellow straw--but you
>probably don't have acres of tomatoes either...Dorothy
We have a neighbor who grows rye and vetch over winter and then
lightly spades it down. Her tomatoes are wonderful and blight free
and there
In a message dated 5/19/02 11:06:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< It takes a very mature cow to be able to properly digest
winter rye 'grass' or 'hay. >>
Winter rye makes straw not hay...I have fed it to my cows green, they really
like it. It is very high in silica, actually accumulates i
Allan-- I will be interested to hear more details
about the slurry. We don't have animals because of
the day jobs, but usually end up with about 50 acres
of this type of rye every year due to cover cropping
before soybeans.
Usually, we mow it after it has headed out since this
kills it, and th
>I believe, and someone jump down my throat if I am wrong, that you can make
>hay out of green rye and then feed it to animals. The hay part means you can
>save it and feed it only as needed. The animal part means they will work it
>into a green slurry for you, and then even produce milk, meat, wo
comminution' if you've been spending too
much time at sites like this one:
http://www.earthlife.net/insects/isopoda.html
- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 8:22 AM
Subject: R
: 02 6657 5306
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: www.biodynamics.net.au
- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting
> >Dear Allan,
> >Why not
- Original Message -
From: Stephen Barrow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 5:35 AM
Subject: RE: Shredders for composting
Hi Steven
I'm with you on shredding compost for hand turning (we only
do small amounts for t
I like Steve's suggestion for crushing with a roller. I did a bit of that
when i had access to a clean concrete slab for a while. My 5' roller, filled
with water weighs about 1200lbs.,and worked well, except for some of the
larger woody turnips which wouldnt get squeezed in front of the roller's
g
TECTED]
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting
Why do you want to shred something so small??? It would be gone soon
anyway.
If it is not done, screen and re-compost. You would be better of with a
slow moving heavy weight roller to crush and expose more surface area, less
parts to wear and bend and fix. SStorch
>Dear Allan,
>Why not just mow the rye over with a mower and spray with Barrel Compost and
>then turn in by spade as a green manure, roots and all. Saves a lot of
>effort and still aids the soil.
>Then make a proper compost heap, with your hay and green matter and manure,
>for later use, and use y
In my experience it pays to mix all materials going into a compost heap. I
have always retuned between 10% to 25% old compost mixed in with the new
materials. I have often made composts using large quantities of grass
collected in a forage harvester and even when tumble mixed with a bobcat
there w
" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BDNOW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting
> I used to compost lawn clippings from a local mowing contractor. The main
> problem I struck with the fine clippings was that it tended
>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, 19 May 2002 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: Shredders for composting
> What about my situation?
>
> I'm cutting overwintered rye off from raised bed and getting ready to
> compost it with cow manure (to re-apply to the same beds) I'm
> th
> But again, I think, why not just layer the whole green straw with the
manure?
Allan
I have seen this done unintentionally on a large scale. In effect what they
ended up with was silage as the layer of dung "sealed" the stack so to
speak, and so the heap did not decompose and break down.
rega
What about my situation?
I'm cutting overwintered rye off from raised bed and getting ready to
compost it with cow manure (to re-apply to the same beds) I'm
thinking about putting the cut rye into a bin and dropping a rotary
mower on it, to chop it to a green slurry. (I think Hugh has
suggest
I find a small shredder (bought, not home-made!) invaluable for making shrub
trimmings up to about 3/4" diam, and often several feet long, suitable for
inclusion in compost. I can't see how else these could be processed? Tony
N-S.
Why do you want to shred something so small??? It would be gone soon anyway.
If it is not done, screen and re-compost. You would be better of with a
slow moving heavy weight roller to crush and expose more surface area, less
parts to wear and bend and fix. SStorch
Hi All,
Does anybody have experience with making a shredder or similar device? I
have a cylinder made from 5 mm thick plate, which I wish to use as the basis
for a shredder. I envisage having rotary blades chopping against fixed
blades as the first stage, and, lower down, chain flails to smash
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