Stus-List 35-1 headliner bump

n On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, " hhallgr...@cox.net " < hhallgr...@cox.net > wrote: Thanks David, I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr. http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/ <http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

I don't like straying from the accepted marine solutions but there are more battery monitors out there than the Link and Blue Sea systems.  There's the Trimetric 2025-RV and the Doc Wattson R102.  Don't know anything about either.  Readouts may be in KWH and not AH. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 M

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

My Xantrex XBM shunt is in the negative lead between batteries and load, which isn't affected by the switch. Like Colin, I monitor the house bank only. If I want to see what the starting battery is doing, I switch to Battery #1 and stick a digital meter into the 12V outlet to read voltage. On 3 D

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Like Wally, I keep a piece of iron pipe on the boat for persuading through-hulls. I gave it a nice coat of Yamaha Outboard Motor Sparkly Blue since I had some and it looks more elegant sitting on the counter. I also periodically remove the drain fitting on the seacock, screw a zerk fitting in and s

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

Yea, it's a good idea, but  going with a dedicated starting battery isn't in my immediate future.  So, with those of us going old school with 1-all-2 battery switch,  one monitor could work to check voltage/amp on each battery by having the current sensor down stream of the  switch.   Any

Re: Stus-List Retorquing keel bolts

Sebastien, There is much debate on whether to torque on the hard or in the water.  Logic would favor on the hard because that's probably how they were torqued at the C&C factory for original construction. Yes, one bolt at a time. Generally, most torque without lubrication.  Just simply back th

Stus-List Retorquing keel bolts

Having noticed the "smile" on my keel, I was planning on doing "something" about it this spring. First retorquing the bolts is now on my #1 list of todos! I have bought last year a 250 lbs/ft torque wrench but did not come to use it as I had too many unanswered questions on the process of torqu

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

Colin's right (as usual… :^). Also, if you go that route, some of he newer battery monitors will allow you measure just the voltage of the starting battery (in addition to all the functions for the house bank), which is all you really need for the start battery, as it rarely gets discharged m

Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

Absolutely DO NOT wire ANYTHING to the battery without the properly-sized fuse (or other over-current protection device) in the line, as close to the battery as possible!!! Unless you want your boat to burn to the waterline someday. This is especially true of anything with a motor in it, like

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

First, you don't need to monitor at the 'battery' level, you want to monitor (and charge, and consume) at the 'bank' level. I have 8 batteries in my house bank and that's ALL I monitor with my Link 1000 - which only has capacity to monitor one bank. (Actually, it will give me voltage on the star

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

For stuck metal valves, try removing the hose and spraying PB Blaster into the valve. Set a portable light next to it for a bit of heat. Let it sit a few days then try to work it loose. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provide

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

RE removing a broken plastic nipple. I have a tool like one of these: designed for lawn sprinkler systems, because those systems use the cheapest plastic imaginable. It works like an easy-out. I have only needed it once

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

This one has a Stainless steel handle. Offer still good. Frank From: Fred Hazzard Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 3:50 PM To: kenhea...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves My recollection is that they are of a more rounded shape. Plus the handles

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Frank: Thanks for the offer. As I get closer to doing this project I’ll give you a call. Fred H From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frank Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 3:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves F

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

My recollection is that they are of a more rounded shape. Plus the handles are solid bronze. Fred H From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 12:57 PM To: cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves Are the

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Fred, I have at least one of the cockpit drain thru hull valves I removed from Cool Change several years ago. They are held together with four bolts. I am not sure if it is an original valve. If you want it you can have it. Frank From: Fred Hazzard Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 12:27 PM

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Fred, I suspect you have the same bronze tapered cone seacocks as I do. I do not have any advice on getting them unstuck other than trying to take them apart (on the hard of course!) and some gently tapping with a mallet on the thin end of the cone. This worked in the past for me on some of my s

Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

Pat, The switch should be hard wired to the battery w/o a fuse?? Any luck with the buyer? Back on your feet? Joel On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 5:05 PM, Pat Nevitt wrote: > Looks like a great solution, but at 8 3/4 inches long it is too long for > the sump in my 29-2. I have had a nagging problem

Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

Looks like a great solution, but at 8 3/4 inches long it is too long for the sump in my 29-2. I have had a nagging problem with my float switch for a while. The main bilge pump works fine when switched on from the breaker panel. When the water level reaches the float switch, it will activate the

Stus-List CnC-25 Redline thru hull drainage from cockpit

cock, carry on. Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20121203/4cf2941f/attachment-0001.html> -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 3 Dec

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Are they a Tapered Cone Seacock like these? http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks Ken H. On 3 December 2012 16:27, Fred Hazzard wrote: > I have 2 lever operated bronze valves for cockpit drains that are frozen. > I need suggestions as how to free them up an keep them from f

Re: Stus-List buying a C&C 40

I know he does, yes. He can be reached at 401 369-0487. On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 3:20 PM, Richard N. Bush wrote: > Andy, could you send me the contact info for Dwight Escalera of Executive > Marine? Any idea if he travels to upper Mass.? Thanks > > Richard > 1987 33-II > > > Richard N. Bush Law

Re: Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

Fred stuck ball valves can be very hard to unstick. whatever you do, do not heat them up too much because they have Teflon seats that can melt. They can be dis-assembled but not in place. You'll need to get it into a vice. By then, you may as well spend the money on new ones because 2" ball

Stus-List bronze thru hull valves

I have 2 lever operated bronze valves for cockpit drains that are frozen. I need suggestions as how to free them up an keep them from freezing again. Since they both drain above the water line, I haven't worried to much yet, but they should be freed up. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C&C 44

Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

The rear crack *may *be linked to a loose keel bolt, but the forward one probably not. I'm talking about the interface between keel stub to hull, not keel to keel stub (the "keel joint" / source of the smile). Thanks, Tim On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Rick Brass wrote: > I note that you’v

Re: Stus-List buying a C&C 40

Andy, could you send me the contact info for Dwight Escalera of Executive Marine? Any idea if he travels to upper Mass.? Thanks Richard 1987 33-II Richard N. Bush Law Offices 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor Louisville, Kentucky 40202 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: A

Re: Stus-List buying a C&C 40

Thanks, Dennis. All ball valves. Have to free up the cockpit drain valves. The surveyor says I'll get another couple of seasons on the cutless bearing and it has a MaxProp that I like a lot! I looked at the strut and discussed it during the survey. The surveyor (Dwight Escalera of Executive Marine

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

Pete If you are going to replace think about a third battery, solar, inverter. I've seen lots of complaints about the new Xantrex stuff on CF fwiw. Joel Aronson On Dec 3, 2012, at 1:49 PM, "Dennis C." wrote: Might be a bit more than needed or wanted but the Blue Sea VSM 422 monitors a lot of

Re: Stus-List buying a C&C 40

Congrats! I'd start below the waterline - thru hulls, smile, bottom prep. Then the rig. Rod rigging? It's supposed to be re headed every 10 years. Photos please! Joel Aronson On Dec 3, 2012, at 1:48 PM, Andrew Burton wrote: Well, I started out looking at a fixer-upper of a 35 Mk I, then looke

Re: Stus-List buying a C&C 40

Congratulations! Sounds like the boat is on the hard so focus on the underbody.  If they're not ball valves, replace the thruhull valves with ball valves. Replace the cutless bearing.  Maybe rebed the strut.  Make sure you like the prop. Everything else you can do after launch. Dennis C. To

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

Might be a bit more than needed or wanted but the Blue Sea VSM 422 monitors a lot of systems, AC, DC, amphours consumed, tank levels, etc.  Of course you have to buy the sensors you need. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA > > From: Martin DeYoung >To:

Stus-List buying a C&C 40

Well, I started out looking at a fixer-upper of a 35 Mk I, then looked at Mk IIs, then a 39 (we didn't care for the layout for cruising as a couple). Glanced at some Mk IIIs--C&C really seems to have got it right with each of the 35s, didn't they? About the same time a friend found me a 40 to look

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

See if the wiring came off the shunts. That would disable the current part of the unit. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of pete.shelqu...@comcast.net Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 12:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List xantrex lin

Re: Stus-List xantrex link 20

Pete, I have the Link monitor + 2,500 watt inverter/charger on Calypso. It was manufactured by Heart Interface just about the time Xantrex was acquiring them. A few years back Calypso's link display failed. At that time Xantrex still had a manufacturing/engineering/repair facility near Seattl

Stus-List xantrex link 20

I have two house batteries. No separate starting battery yet. I use a Xantrex Link 20 to monitor voltage/current on each battery and it appears the display has gone belly up. IE I can only see voltage for each battery, no current. Does anyone have trouble shooting ideas/options? I looked at

Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

Ken ( and later contributors), Sorry, my mistake in terminology. It's not a gate valve. A bronze ball seacock - seems to be in good shape. Still turns easily and definitely turns on and off. Danny - thanks for the input on how to remove the plastic hose barb. I'll try it. Eric Cat's Paw,

Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

Go ahead and break it. You should be replacing the gate valve anyhow. You should only have a proper seacock with a lever actuated ball valve on any fitting below the maximum heeled waterline. And if you are sailing in salt water, the brass gate valve will corrode and freeze up in a surprisingly sho

Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump - patching holes underway

Dennis, Thanks for the flashback to the *USS Buttercup*! One of my favorite training exercises right there after fire fighting and the tear gas house. Pat On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 9:25 PM, Dennis C. wrote: > Joel, > > Just my opinion but first, most of your boat isn't 3 feet below the > waterli

Stus-List Re- suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

If it is a gate valve, replace it. If it's a ball valve (sea-cock), use more heat on the valve. The bronze valve will expand enough to make removing the hose barb easier. Alan Bergen C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This List

Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

I note that you’ve not retorqued the keel bolts in 7 years, and I would suggest the this probably needs to be done before you try anything else.. My owner’s manuals don’t specify an interval for retorquing, but I try to do it every two years or so on both boats. The exception is the bolt under

Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

This one may do the trick: http://www.spx.com/en/johnson-pump-marine/pd-marine-bilge-low-boy/ it can be mounted vertically. I already have a Johnson switch. I go from 240 gph to 750 gph which gives me a little comfort! On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Dennis C. wrote: > My next float switch

Re: Stus-List suggestions for unscrewing a plastic hose barb

Eric, What are you using to try and get it out? You may have to cut it out. Sometimes the plastic cannot withstand the pressure needed to break and old screw joint loose. I've had to remove many a broken nipple over the years and the plastic ones are the easiest. You need one of those mini

Re: Stus-List US Small Vessel Reporting Service

Who said the boat was coming back? We're just heading over to Puerto Rico - which I believe is still part of the US. Cheers Colin Afloat in Tortola On 11/30/12, Joel Aronson wrote: > Colin, > > This looks like this new system is intended to replace all that. > Interesting that you can re-enter