Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: "Michael Dean"
To:
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Danny,
I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusti
Thanks for a all the boat options! I was away over the weekend - took
the kids sailing overnight (yes - I definitely need a larger boat 4
kids and one adult wedged into a Mirage 24 with 5' of headroom --
weather was great, but sleeping accommodations very restrictive!)
I like the look of
That "core to core" splice is exactly what I had in mind.
Thanks Dennis.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: S
Touche' has two piece spinnaker sheets. I had Layline "stuff" 1/4 inch Dyneema
into a length of StaSet. The StaSet is easy on the hads and works well on the
winches while the Dyneema is light and strong for the active part of the sheet.
The joined portion is located such that it is on the win
In all of the discussions about using high tech line for halyards over the
years, there is one solution to the problem of the
"hand" of the thinner lines that I don't recall being suggested. Why not use
ordinary half inch or larger spliced polyester tails
similar to the way that wire and polyeste
Chuck,
I just replaced Touche's 7/16 StaSet jibsheets with 3/8 VPC from New England
Rope. I bought from apsltd and had them splice an eye on each end and include
their version of soft shackles.
Line is very nice. The soft shackles make tacking much smoother. Seems to
like an extra wrap on t
Danny,
I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) Did it have any effect? It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. Another thing to t
Lol - everyone seems to have their own code. I always did blue headsail, green
spinnaker and red main. Of course, the factory rigged my boat with blue for
the main and red for headsail. Now I'm changing lines just so I don't have to
unlearn 25 years of habit.
Other than halyards, I would tak
Someone over on the cruisers forum posted this:
I was taught (by an English race crew) that Mainsail controls are always
green, jib sails blue and spinnakers red. Halyards are solid colors and
sheets, outhauls etc. flecked or with tracers. (By following this
convention, crews are able to move from
I've had very good luck with Rigging Only and would suggest a call. I don't
see much value for a line higher tech than sta-set for your application but
will let the experts speak. I would worry more about why the line is wearing
after just a few years of use.
John
Sent from my iPad
On Aug
Great comments. Every time I call I get great advice. We have Ken on speed dial
up in toronto.
Glen Eddie
Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers and Solicitors
Tel: 416-777-5357
From: djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Although there may be a price break in buying a spool of line, I would
strongly recommend having different colors for different lines. I just
sailed on a friends boat with many of the control lines the same - brother
it was confusing - and I would say, potentially dangerous - especially if
you don'
I sailed and raced on a C&C24 for many years thru the 80s and early 90s. It
is not 'lowly'. Besides the usual club racing we did a lot of long distance
racing on Georgian Bay - equivalent to coastal sailing, sometimes finding
ourselves in tough wind and sea conditions - but the boat always sailed
w
Hi Charlie,
My boat in 1990 originally came with 7/16" halyards/wire and were replaced by
the PO w 3/8" Samson Ultralite rated for 4400#
A few years ago I replaced a few control lines w 5/16" line which worked out
great.
I replaced a worn out spin halyard w T-900.
If I were to do this year,
No doubt that Moyer charges a little more for parts than some places, but
consider all the extra's that come with it. I was having a similar problem
with my engine a few weeks ago. I just pulled the carb off and carefully
disassembled it. Then I cleaned all the passages with carb cleaner and
re
Charlie,
I just replaced most of my running rigging. For the halyards I used New England
1/2" VPC, plenty of strength, very low stretch, no creep. It has a blended
Vectran core and a polyester cover. I wanted the 1/2" size to make it easier on
the hands and workable with the existing clutches. W
T-900 is good. It's a tough hard line especially when under a load and hard to splice. ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "Bill Coleman" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Monday, August 19, 2013 6:15:15 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards
I bought a spool of 10 mm
I bought a spool of 10 mm T-900 from NER for halyards, they work good and I
don't notice any stretch. It is hard to pull at the mast with bare hands,
though. (I try not to do that, much) On the other hand, I would not want
anything fatter for up - the - mast stuff.
Incidentally, this main halyard
I think halyards for Jib and Main should be VPC 100 or better. You can go
smaller diameter and have a core added where they go through the clutches or
over the mast head sheeve. Again, ask the riggers at aspltd.com
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
Charlie,
I would suggest you call and discuss your needs with Annapolis Performance
Sailing. They have new stuff coming to market all the time, rig lots of racers
and can advise you on options. Be open minded, but explain how you have rigged
your own boat.
I changed my genoa sheets to 3/8" Ma
My crew has convinced me that I need to replace my regular sheets and
halyards--some have been spliced/end for ended, etc. and its been probably 5+
years that they have been in use. For convenience, I like to use the same line
and color for my jib and main halyards and the jib sheets. The main s
Wait – a *25 hours since new/reman* carb is all hosed up?
I would be thinking you have some nasty gas!
Or did you get a short block and use an old carb?
I really would move this to the MM Forum. There is a lot of good advice over
there. Also I can’t imagine Moyer would be shy about helping with a
Yea, I've spent A LOT of money at Moyer Marine and I'm happy to help keep him
going. However, Boats are expensive and it seems these carburetors need to be
rebuilt quite often. So, he charges for the conveinience. I get it. I'm just
slightly annoyed that my brand new Moyer exchange engine wit
I rebuilt my entire A4 using Don's rebuild manual and his Amish machinists
to rebore the cylinders and remachine the head. Without Don Moyer, we
Atomic Four owners would be up a creek. If his parts are more expensive
(I've never looked elsewhere), in my opinion, it's money well spent just to
mainta
I rebuilt mine with a Bendix Zenith rebuild kit from NAPA.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 19, 2013, at 6:54 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com" wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. I'm having some idling issues and It's
> getting better and better but I think It should b
1. The Moyer forum is really THE place to get A4 advice.
2. MM is pretty well responsible for the A-4 still being a viable engine.
All that said, they are not always the cheapest place to get something. Make
sure the farm service people are selling a MARINE replacement carb. There is a
99% ident
Hello all,
I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. I'm having some idling issues and It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. When I looked
inside the carb. It was dirty and gritty...no good,
I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. Although it is better I want to try a
Hi,
A previous owner replaced the tach gauge on for my 2QM15 with a fuel gauge.
Rather than replacing the fuel gauge, I installed a diesel Tiny-Tach which in
addition to the tachometer, is also log keeper of run-time hours. The
tiny-tach was worked fine for many years now.See:
http:/
I had not considered that option. It may devalue the yacht as a package more
than the yield from the sail. I do have a second spin. Have not looked closely
to see design since I do not have crew to manage them.
Sent from my iPad
Brett Arron, MD
Department of Anesthesia
Lifespan Miriam Hospital
The story from my friend was that it left on its own the next day after a
couple hour sail.
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25 #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: August-18-13 3:14 PM
To:
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