seanadams Wrote:
yes, soon. I'm going to test this a bit more and make sure it's really
the ideal fix - but it seems to work perfectly for me. I just wanted to
get something out quickly for the guys who are hearing this.
Sean, I'm wondering if you could provide an update on this. Did the
ephemere Wrote:
Sean, I'm wondering if you could provide an update on this. Did the fix
work out to your satisfaction? If so, when will it be incorporated into
shipping units?
We're already shipping this fix as of a couple weeks ago. If you want
to send your unit in please contact [EMAIL
I just put in this fix this afternoon. I used 33pF, 0805-size caps
(forgot to check the dielectric type; they may have been X7R. I can
check and get back to you if you care about that). Anyway, it does
dramatically reduce the noise, but in my case, does not eliminate it.
With the headphone
seanadams Wrote:
I have a solution for this now (thanks to Andrew Weekes for the
pointers).
It looks like the signal is actually being picked up by the headphone
cable (not internally). It goes into the 1/8 jack and then gets
amplified back out by the headphone amp. The behavior seems
How much will it cost to have this done? And is it same to assume it
won't invalidate the warranty?
Thanks.
TL
seanadams Wrote:
I have a solution for this now (thanks to Andrew Weekes for the
pointers).
It looks like the signal is actually being picked up by the headphone
cable (not
sbjaerum Wrote:
Will this fix be incorporated in units you ship in the future?
Steinar
yes, soon. I'm going to test this a bit more and make sure it's really
the ideal fix - but it seems to work perfectly for me. I just wanted to
get something out quickly for the guys who are hearing this.
takashi37 Wrote:
How much will it cost to have this done? And is it same to assume it
won't invalidate the warranty?
Thanks.
TL
We'll do it for you no charge under warranty (you pay shipping to us,
we cover shipping back to you).
If you want to do it yourself the parts are about $0.02
As the original poster, I would like to thank Sean and everyone at Slim
Devices for their willingness to address this problem, not to mention
their blazingly responsive turnaround in finding and committing to
implement a solution. This attention to detail is well above and
beyond the strict call
seanadams Wrote:
We'll do it for you no charge under warranty (you pay shipping to us, we
cover shipping back to you).
If you want to do it yourself the parts are about $0.02 each (we can
mail them to you if you want). We'll honor the warranty in this case,
but I should stress that we
Thanks guys for your kind words! But the real kudos go to Andrew for
actually offering some direction. I was getting nowhere looking at the
internal signals, and quite overlooked the idea that the 802.11 output
was getting coupled back into the system via the headphone cable.
--
seanadams
I was intrigued by this thread because I have been using headphones but
had not noticed the problem, hence investigated. Hope this info may add
to the pool...
I have two wireless SB2s. One on a B network, one on a G network. Both
exhibit the clicking/interference problem described by ephemere.
The RF interference I am hearing is quite easily audible when music is
playing. Maybe rock would drown it out, but try listening to a
Schubert piano sonata. I'm sorry to report that I've never heard such
a noisy audio output, even from the headphone jack in cheap old CD-ROM
drives. This is why
The line outs are meant to drive low power into a relatively high
impedance, heaphone amp is vice versa (50mw into 16 ohm IIRC). You'll
certainly get sound if you connect headphones direct to the line outs,
but it won't be loud.
--
seanadams
___
ephemere Wrote:
Removing the antenna makes the interference go away
There are two antennas; only one is removeable. This is a good hint as
to where the noise entry is.
I wonder if there's a bit of crosstalk on the PCB traces feeding the
high-impedance input to the headphone amp?
I also
Dave D Wrote:
I wonder if there's a bit of crosstalk on the PCB traces feeding the
high-impedance input to the headphone amp?
I suspect so - it's a high impedance through the CMOS switch that
provides the geekport capability (serial and IR data coming soon, I
promise!). Had to wire it
Dave D Wrote:
I also wonder how many folks are using the SB2's headphone output and
wireless simultaneously, because (unless you got unlucky with two bad
units) others should see the problem.
I am. I received my SB2 two days ago and I requested an exchange for a
problem of buzzing while the
First of all, thanks to Sean and folks for looking into this. I'll
give you guys a call to discuss if you want me to hold on to my second
unit to run any tests or experiments.
To answer MeSue, the RF interference I'm hearing is not a constant
buzzing. The way to tell is to turn the unit off,
If looks like the headphone amp chip itself (not surrounding traces) is
susceptible to picking up the 802.11 signal (it does not appear to be
DC power related). There's probably not much that can be done short of
shielding that whole section. I'm trying a few experiments to see if
there's an easy
Sean, can I ask how the headphone section is different from the line
outs? They're both variable, but do they differ in max voltage,
current delivery, impedance, etc.? I'm wondering if I can just use a
mini-to-RCA adapter and use the line outs for my headphones? Note that
I don't want to use
seanadams Wrote:
If looks like the headphone amp chip itself (not surrounding traces) is
susceptible to picking up the 802.11 signal (it does not appear to be
DC power related).
So that's a 2.4GHz signal? If it was an RF circuit, I'd say maybe one
of the traces is acting as a nice 2.4GHz
What you're hearing is the envelope of the signal. Of course 2.4G is
a ways outside our hearing range. :)
--
seanadams
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Discuss@lists.slimdevices.com
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seanadams Wrote:
What you're hearing is the envelope of the signal. Of course 2.4G is
a ways outside our hearing range. :)
I bet some folks in the Audiophiles forum would disagree ;)
(now I'm in trouble)
--
Dave D
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Discuss mailing list
seanadams Wrote:
Anyway yes, antenna orientation definitely makes a difference - by
pointing the external antenna either straight out or towards the power
input plug, I can make it go away. YMMV though - the radio will switch
dynamically between the external and the internal antenna as
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