Paul -
Congratulations!! Not rocket science, but very specific procedure for
accomplishing a 'rebuild'.
You mention a TR-4... Don't forget that the T-4X(any) is a 500 kHz PTO,
while the TR-(any) is a 600 kHz PTO!!
--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
PTO is reassembled today.
I used a very small amount of auto grease on the end of an exacto
knife to place the bearings in the race. Of course, I did it three
times because, if you leave the dial on, both the 'stop' rod and the
idler rod for the plastic gear must be in place BEFORE you reinstall
t
my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended
thereto.
--
From: "Curt Nixon"
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 9:52 PM
To: "Paul Gerhardt"
Cc: "Steve Wedge" ; ;
Subject: Re: [Drakelist]
Hi Paul:
Once the ball race area is all clean and dry, I apply some teflon grease
to the area. Then carefully flace the balls into the grease one at a
time using tweezers. If the frame is laying face down it helps. Same
as putting loose balls into a front wheel on a bicycle. Then let the
Got the PTO rod out today Yea! Yes, the PTO is out of the rig. I ran
the fork to the end of the screw then undid the tension adj hex screw.
Of course then the balls started to drop out and I removed the
plastic gear and it's rod by removing the 'clip washer' (not sure what
it's real name is).
N
n
>Sent: Nov 4, 2011 7:05 AM
>To: Steve Wedge
>Cc: k4...@mindspring.com, Paul Gerhardt ,
>drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO Repair Question
>
>I know from trying it that one will play in the other, but...here it
>comes, drumroll.the linearity w
Hi Paul:
At first, it will appear as a unsulvable puzzle trying to remove the rod
and yke from the frame. But keep at it..it will come out without
bending and go back in. Takes me a few minutes every time to figure out
how mto rotate it around to get it past the guide rod that is fixed into
Curt
Thanks for letting me know that the fork to 'slug rod' joint is
soldered. On the one I have here it was a poor solder connection. As
it should be grounded I will take the fork all the way out and use the
method Garey suggested for getting it back together.
On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 8:39 PM,
Son of Laptop!
- Original Message -
From: "Curt Nixon"
To:
Cc: "Paul Gerhardt" ;
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO Repair Question
I think he was asking about the fork to slug rod connection. It is
definitely soldered
I think he was asking about the fork to slug rod connection. It is
definitely soldered on the ones I have here. Glue or JB weld epoxy is
not a good choice since the slug rod is grounded through the fork to the
guide rod. A loose slug rod connection will definitely be a jumping
issue.
Re-s
The fork _IS_ threaded!
Perhaps I misunderstood your problem. The fork is NOT fixed to the
tuning shaft. The shaft rotates and the fork is driven back and forth
by the threads??
IF the fork is solidly affixed to the shaft, the shaft can't turn!!
--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL
I can't tell from your photo, but has the fork just come off the end of
the threaded portion of the drive screw? If that's what you're
referring to, just guide it back on while turning the drive screw.
It's just been driven past the stop, usually because the spring loaded
stop pin has been
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PTO-Repair.htm
The above link answered most of my questions.
The end of the rod is threaded with solder on it and the fork is not
threaded so my last remaining question is; how was the tuning rod
affixed to the 'fork'. Would it be better to;
Hi Paul:
Yes the shaft must be electrically and mechanically connected to the
yoke. Also, I see there is no ground strap mod done from the top of the
yoke to the frame.
I don't recall if the yoke is soldered or pressed onto the slug shaft
but I suspect it is soldered..the shaft is brass, an
OK I got the 'spare' PTO out to test and it has a loose 'tuning shaft'
The tuning shaft is loose from the 'fork' piece. It appears as though
someone had tried to solder it on to the fork piece. Was it orginally
a 'press' fit? Has anyone ever repaired this problem before.
I posted of pix of the
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