Thanks Don, just wanted to make sure. I am not using anbsp;Fluke meter but a
cheap one from Radio Shack. When I saw thatnbsp;value was 3K, that's what
raised my eyebrows.
nbsp;
I'llnbsp;let you know how I made out.nbsp;
nbsp;
Original Message Subject: Re: K3 Build
Thanks for your responses. I believe I should be okay to turn it on. Please
keep in mind that I am not using the best meter (a Radio Shack unit) and it
takes a while for the reading to settle down (whether I took the reading in
an auto-range or a setting of the specific ranges needed).
My backlight diffuser has a piece of plastic semi-transparent plastic on the
very top. This plastic has some crinkles and scratches in it. Under this
plastic is a whitish layer in perfect condition, and under that is the glass.
Do I remove that top plastic piece before installing the LCD on
When looking at this Barry I thought maybe you could read the status of
the + icon on the LCD. That is supposed to be on if ESSB is on. I
think a bug got into the FW where the icon is no longer showing when in
ESSB.
This is from the current Programmer's manual...
IC * (Misc. Icons and
Don, Harry, and All,
As usual, Don has given a very cogent response to the question at hand. One
thing I would add is that I think much of the problem conversation you see
here on the reflector is based more on personal preferences. In other
words, some folks like certain characteristics or
I got my power supply, plugged it in and made the connections. No problems at
all. The display lit up and diode D33 lit up as well.
It was quite empowering to see the thing take 13.8VDC knowing that I put it
together.
Looking forward to finishing the build.
I will be back to you should I have
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Thanks guys.
I'm looking to see if my budget could afford a used Kx1 these days.
Your thoughts appreciated on the expected lowest price for a used unit.
tnx
Duane
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On Jan 17, 2010, at 6:04 PM, Greg wrote:
I
think a bug got into the FW where the icon is no longer showing when in
ESSB.
The + works fine in the latest FW rev. I don't think there's been a problem
with it in any of the revs.
Grant/NQ5T
Hi everyone,
Been a couple weeks here since I started this thread, but I've actually
changed my mind and ended up going with the K2. I thought it over a bit more
and decided that the K2 base unit has everything I wanted in it so it was
best to just get it from the start. Also since I'm in no
I updated my K3 (sn1396) firmware over the weekend.
I performed an RX gain cal with the K3Utility support, and all went
well.
Next I attempted the TX calibration, and error'ed with a 'STATE 139'
failure message.
What am I missing ??
Niel
WA7SSA
Just finished reading this thread, very interesting!
I would just add that outdated doesn't necessary mean no longer useful or
that you throw it away. CW is the only mode I use on HF. In fact, I think I
have around 10 total SSB/AM contacts on HF since I was first licensed as a
novice in, IIRC,
Hi Niel,
Have you tried running it again? If it continues to fail, could you copy and
paste the contents of the output field and send it to me in an email? That
would help diagnose the problem.
tnx,
David, W4SMT
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Niel Skousen nskou...@talisman-intl.com wrote:
I
K2 is quite significantly more work than a K1. But it is the last time
you will build a full function transceiver from discrete components
ala Heathkit. The time you spend with it will linger with you and put
you in a new relationship with radio equipment. Highly recommended.
73, Guy.
On Mon,
Hello Harry,
i am a lucky owner of a K3 since 2 years. I have had no experience with
Elecraft before, but after i bought the K3 i was very curious and bought 2
additional K2`s. After some mods, i have taylored them to my needs and-what
should i say- i will never give them away. In my opinion,
I have both the K2/10 and the K3/100. I use them both in the shack and the
K2 also sees use as a portable rig. I like them both.
Here are some things that the K3 has (some are optional) that the K2 does
not have. Some of these helped push me over into the K3 camp instead of
adding the 100W to
And, an everlasting love of the K2. I won't part with the last of the three
I owned. I am down to the last one.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
K2 KX1 (Field tester); K3; W2; mini mods
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Paul,
Follow the instruction in the manual - do *not* remove either backing
from the diffuser.
73,
Don W3FPR
Paul Huff wrote:
My backlight diffuser has a piece of plastic semi-transparent plastic on the
very top. This plastic has some crinkles and scratches in it. Under this
plastic is
LS,
There is a Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft website that may prove to
be helpful - it is either on the Builder's Resource page or the
Application Notes page if I recall correctly. Start at Builder's
Resource and hunt around a bit.
Pay particular attention to the heat of the soldering
Evening gang:
Having some fun with my K2 these days. I've been attempting to set up my
new K60XV and XV50.
While trying to set the inductors inside the XV50 I noted I wasn't getting
enough drive from the K2 to bring the voltage up where it should be.
Back to that later !
Now I'm seeing
Jerry,
One thing at a time is certain. I figure you are using the normal K2
output to drive the XV50 - if you are using the K60XV outputs, the PA
should be disabled (no drive).
See if the K2 does the same thing on 28 MHz with a dummy load attached -
if it does, then you are correct to blame
I am thinking about a move up in power for my K2/100. The reviews
seem to favor an Acom 1000 or Tokyo Hi-Power. What is the collective
wisdom here? Thanks
Dave K6CGE
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Don:
A little more explanation is in order. I have the cover off the K2.
XV50 is not connected at this time. K60XV board is still plugged in.
I now have Ant 1 of the KAT2 hooked to my dummy load with watt meter in
series. Checking voltages at Q7 and Q8 reveal the collector voltage on both
Was over at a friends shack who is driving a Tokyo High Power 1.5
with a K2. He speaks very highly of it. He fired things up and got
through to a South African station first call on RTTY and then
switched over to SSB and used a vertical to work a ZD station I
think. Got through the pile up
On Nov 18 17:43:11 EST 2009 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
Hi Dick,
We don't offer a blank K3 cabinet at present. Unfortunately it would be
very expensive for us to make and even more expensive for you to buy :) But
I'm glad you like it!
Maybe next year we'll have something to put in a box that same
Jerry,
Yes, the PA kit seems to be in order for your K2.
Remove the KAT2 for the initial testing and run the K2 directly into a
good 50 ohm dummy load. No sense in confusing the issue with 'extras'
that could add confusion to the results - take things one at a time and
verify each one before
Hi All,
My order from B H Photo for the Yamaha CM500 headset finally arrived
today--I wasn't sure there would be delivery today, but I guess UPS folks
don't get off on MLK day.
So far, I have had a handful of QSO's with very good reports on audio. I do
like the headphone part of the unit,
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