Yes, I have S/N 0570 with the same symptoms.
73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
On 23/10/2012 1:06 PM, David Holton wrote:
HI All
I have a KX3, #262.
I have an issue and I wonder if others have found the same, It's in relation
to the ENCODER.
There is a distinct noise as you turn the tuning
On 10/21/2012 08:05 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
You can use the tip contact of the ACC2 jack as a PTT input. Set
MENU:ACC2 IO to LO=PTT.
You can plug your key directly into the ACC2 jack if it has a 2.5-mm
stereo plug. If not, you'll need an adapter like the one supplied as
part of our KX3
I have for sale my GW Instek SFG-2110 10 MHz synthesized function generator. I
purchased it new in 2007 and it has since seen light use in my non-smoking lab.
Closing down lab in preparation for a move, so time to let it go. It is in
absolutely mint condition and functions perfectly.
This is a
I'm curious: Would it be possible to add a software feature to allow
the
use of a key as a PTT switch? It seems rather strange to have the key
toggle TX/RX in CW mode just fine, but to lock out that function in
all
other modes except for CW. As the KX3 is very small and compact, it
Well I have 2 different amps for my 2 K3's and both work very well. It
depends on how much power you want for a 500w amp I love the Elecraft KPA500
it integrates with the K3 like a glove. All you have to do is QSY on the
radio and the amp follows with it every time and it's the same size as the
K3
RC,
Maybe. If you get a very old amp you may have difficulties with the
keying circuit. More knowledgable people then I am will need to help
you with that. You'll only know that when you investigate the
specific amp. Not all older amps are an issue; I have a 30 year old
Alpha 77SX and run
I'm finding my P3 is doing something new and unpleasant. It keeps dropping
it's senstivity after a few minutes. The noise level is visible normally
above a -140db threshold on most bands but right now I need to move the REF
LVL to -160 to show noise on 20m. If I turn it off and on again the noise
Howdy Gang:
Since I now primarily use my K3 and KX3 I have decided to sell my K2/10.
The K2 was built by me and is s/n 4118 so no mods required. It is in overall
excellent condition.
The K2/10 includes the following options:
KAT2
KSB2
KAF2
KBT2 (with battery only several months old)
K160RX
Maybe. If you get a very old amp you may have difficulties with the
keying circuit. More knowledgable people then I am will need to help
you with that.
Heath SB-200, SB-220, (and variants), Yaesu FL1200 (and variants),
Drake L4, and Kenwood TS-922 are all issues due to either negative
On 10/24/2012 7:34 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:
I wish to purchase an Amp either new (or new to me ) to use with my K3/100
I've successfully used K3s, both at home and other places, with KPA500,
Ten Tec Titan 425 (original, 30+ years old), Ten Tec Hercules II (a bit
newer), Alpha 87, and ACOM
In the past, I have used an SB-220, which has +120 VDC on the
relay keying line. No problem.
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, Arizona
.
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Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Item 1:
Elecraft K3/100 s/n 4671
Installed options:
KAT3 – Auto-tuner
KRX3 – Sub Receiver
KXV3A – IF out and transverter interface
KBPF3 – General coverage RX module
Filters:
Main:
KFL3A-2.8k 8 pole
KFL3A-1.0k 8 pole
KFL3A-400 8 pole
Sub:
KFL3A-2.8k 8 pole
Item 2:
Elecraft P3 – Panadapter s/n 644
Hi,
I'm hearing, for example, K6FRC/B2 beacon on both 28.250 MHz and 44.676 MHz
First IF 8.125 Second IF 15 KHz my math is not working.
Also hearing some very strange call signs up there :)
Anyone else hear it with AGC off pre amp on?
Or is it just my receiver
Thank you,
73 ka5pnx
--
View this
On 25/10/2012, at 1:45 AM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
I'll add key as PTT to the wish-list.
More interesting will be to implement the send CW from SSB mode (CW WGHT =
SSB +CW) as described in the owner's manual.
73, Matt VK2ACL
The control board for K2 #7375 is complete. The front panel board is finished
but not yet in the metal front panel. Getting a little tired tonight and I
don't want to scratch the front panel or do anything dumb like that! So I
think thats enough for now. Back to it tomorrow!
Keith N8CEP
--
View
Agreed. -Bruce, N1RX
More interesting will be to implement the send CW from SSB mode
(CW WGHT = SSB +CW) as described in the owner's manual.
73, Matt VK2ACL
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Elecraft mailing list
Home:
When tuned to 144-146 MHz per Elecraft instructions, the XV144 transverter
will also operate in the 146-148 MHz and nearby MARS frequencies although
with decreased sensitivity and output power. These findings are posted on
http://www.qsl.net/kp4md/xv144.htm http://www.qsl.net/kp4md/xv144.htm
My. K2/100 is acting up in that it is showing high SWR even on a dummy load.
Any ideas on whether the K2 finals may be blown? It behaves the same way on all
the bands. It displays high current with the power set to 3 watts or more. My
K2 is SN7105.
Will appreciate diagnostic help.
Ariel
Ariel -
What options, if any, are in your K2? Can you temporarily disable the
100-watt PA and connect the 10-watt PA directly to the dummy load
(disconnecting the cables to the KPA-100 completely), and if so, what
happens then? It may be that the wattmeter diodes are damaged. If that
Yes, agreed too!
Helmut OE1MHL
via iPad
Am 25.10.2012 um 03:04 schrieb Bruce Beford bruce.bef...@myfairpoint.net:
Agreed. -Bruce, N1RX
More interesting will be to implement the send CW from SSB mode
(CW WGHT = SSB +CW) as described in the owner's manual.
73, Matt VK2ACL
Hi all -
Started build of my K2 a few weeks back and have been slowly progressing. I
must say I'm not an overly experienced builder - I've built a number of
smaller kits, the largest being an MFJ shortwave regen receiver and one of
the Ice Tube clocks you can find online - but all of my builds
You probably have thought of this, but make sure you are using a different
cable to the
dummy load than the one you were using with the antenna. Bad cables, or rather,
bad
cable-connector junctions, are very common.
On 10/24/2012 7:18 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
My. K2/100 is acting up in that
Try resoldering the connections to the MCU socket. Look at connections with a
magnifier,
and heat and add a bit of solder to any that look grainy or otherwise not good.
The fact that it worked partially and then stopped working suggests a flaky
solder joint
rather than a wiring mistake!
On
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