Hi all,
At first, I was only going to contact Ron with this as I was too
embarrassed to reveal that I had maimed the RF board on my K3. But, I
then thought maybe someone else could benefit from my experience and
public humility ;-)
I have an early serial number #338 and needed to make the
Dave Van Wallaghen wrote:
Hi all,
At first, I was only going to contact Ron with this as I was too
embarrassed to reveal that I had maimed the RF board on my K3. But, I
then thought maybe someone else could benefit from my experience and
public humility ;-)
I have an early serial number
If you've got the right resistance across R91, you're good!
Golly Dave, never be embarrassed to stumble over a problem. To paraphrase an
old saying, If you haven't damaged a trace, you haven't worked on enough pc
boards...
That pad was chosen because trying to solder directly to the IC with
Ron's 3rd hint is very important! Keep some handy. Put some on the
solderwick when trying to remove components or clear holes. If that little
spool of solder wick is more than a few months old the flux in it has dried
out and all you are doing is heating the board/lifting the pad. I don't know
Thank you all for the great suggestions. The rest of the installation
went well except for one hitch that Bill had mentioned about the tabs on
the KRX3 PCB. In my case, I tried to get it to fit but found that all of
the tabs running from the front to back (right and left sides looking
from the
5 matches
Mail list logo
