There is a "trick" I use when removing the K2 heatsink. Stick a piece
of electrical tape over each of the PA mounting screw heads - stick to
the surrounding board and whatever else it sticks to.
Now you can remove the nuts - push the screw threads back a bit to allow
the heat sink to tilt up an
Fred,
Having gone partially through this process recently, I would vouch for Don's
recommendation that you do first what most adds to your desired operating
capabilities. I would add only one small caveat though - the KAT2
installation requires removal of the heat sink portion of the bottom cover
Having done this several times myself, my advice would be to do it all
at once. There is a certain amount of "overhead" removing screws,
breaking into the radio and moving stuff around to get to the parts. It
is pain to do that multiple times. Just get it over with.
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101
On 11
Don,
Thanks for you detailed reply. I think I will install the KIO2 first so I
can interface the K2 to my computer for CW contesting.
I don't know if I was being very patient or just afraid I would break the K2
which was already working so well!
Fred, KC9QQ
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ht
Fred,
Those options can be installed in any order. Look at your operating
situation to decide which to install first. For instance, if you are
currently using a manual antenna tuner and would like to automate the
tuning, add the KAT2 first. If you are interested more in SSB and
digital modes
I hope this is a simple question.
I built my K2 nearly two years ago and it has been working flawlessly.
After I completed the construction and alignment of the base unit I had
planned to build and install the KSB2, KDSP2, KNB2, KIO2, and KAT2
(purchased with the original K2). I was so pleased w
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