Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link
were more definite and final:
/The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part
availability issue that was crucial to the
functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not be
coming back sorry to say./
The 4-band K1 is a really nice, small QRP ra
This is sad news indeed. I have built a few K1s, and repaired a few for
others. The 4 band board made for a very capable rig, without the swapping
that the 2 band version requires. A redesign/reintroduction would be nice,
but I imagine it's primarily a business decision, rather than strictly an
eng
I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come
back.
http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html
Gil.
--
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On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
> needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band module is a tempo
Yes, Bruce, it looks like this:
/T//he K1...A compact, high-performance CW
rig that _you_ can build./
//
/HF operation is more fun than ever these
days--five watts is all you need to work worldwide
DX. That's why we've packed up to four bands into
our affordable, easy-to-build K1-
All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
shou
This link discusses doing a switch
http://www.elecraft.com/K1/k1_backlight_mod_kit.htm
Phil W7OX
On 7/16/14, 9:59 AM, George Averill wrote:
Does anyone have suggestions for installing the backlight mod in the K1? Which
is best, 2 ma or 6 ma configuration? Has anyone installed a switch to tu
I used the lower brightness level and it works great. The power draw is minimal
and another switch is something else to break...
K1 S/N. 3206
Sent from my iPad
73 Scotty / NU0S
> On Jul 16, 2014, at 11:59, "George Averill" wrote:
>
> Does anyone have suggestions for installing the backlight
George,
If you operate mostly on battery, use the 2ma. option, otherwise I would
use the 6 ma. for its extra brightness - but best is to install it
initially for 2 ma, and then look at it to see if you think it is bright
enough.
I don't think there is room for a switch.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/
Does anyone have suggestions for installing the backlight mod in the K1? Which
is best, 2 ma or 6 ma configuration? Has anyone installed a switch to turn it
on or off?
George
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Does anyone have a KTS1 tilt stand for the K1 they would like to sell?
If so, please email me directly at: d...@k4eq.net. Thanks.
Dale, K4EQ
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Hi ,
I am looking for a K1, Four Bands , with ATU preferably with internal
battery options.
If you have one available, please reply with your offer .
If you are from Europe is most easy due the customs .
Thanking in advance
Marq ct1bww
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QRPWorks will be introducing a new product for K1, K2, KX1, and KX3 users
who operate in the field. It is called Key Log Go and will be in booth
NH-0188 just down the aisle from Elecraft's booth. Our website,
www.QRPworks.com will have details by opening day.
Steve Silverman KB3SII
QRP Works
__
The K3 Noise Blankers are very effective against line noise FYI with no
buckshoting off to the sides of your passband due to close by stations.
Most rigs I have used are not this good and are not worth having in
regards to the NB> Toby K4NH
On 5/10/2014 2:27 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Joel,
Joel,
The K1 (and K2) noise blanker is designed to work on impulse noise -
those noises with a fast rise time like automotive ignition noise or
distant lightning clashes.
It will not eliminate slow rising noises like power line noise.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/10/2014 1:21 PM, Joel wrote:
I recent
I recently assembled a K1 noise blanker. It doesn't seem to reduce my power
line noise any. Any one have any suggestions or comments?
Sent from my iPhone
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Hel
I have no direct experience with the K1, but the first think I would look for
is the diodes installed backward. The band will be on the output (negative)
end of the diode. The next thing to look for is that all the diodes are open.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ & Trustee N5B
> I am a first time "K1" builder and am having a very difficult
> time getting the proper voltage measurements for the test on
> page 46 of the manual.
> Test point J7 pin 8 should be 3.8vdc I get "0"
> The test points on Diodes "D9","D10","D11","D13", all measure "0"
Are you sure you performed
You have no voltage coming into the T/R switch from the 6T voltage rail.
Do you have the 6T voltage anywhere? Do a TUNE and check the voltage at
P1 pin 7 - it should be near 6 volts. If OK there, you can go on, but
if nothing there, you will have to backtrack to the Front Panel Board -
the vo
I am a first time "K1" builder and am having a very difficult time getting the
proper voltage measurements for the test on page 46 of the manual.
Test point J7 pin 8 should be 3.8vdc I get "0"
The test points on Diodes "D9","D10","D11","D13", all measure "0"
Any suggestions as to how to go abo
Well, I seem to always have problems when I buy a used radio... Strike
3... :\
The other two were a complete loss but this one I need to salvage!
I just bought a K1 and I think it has receive issues.
I was trying to get on the air last night and hitting people with lot's of
signal (579, 589, 5
A 37/63 alloy solder is easier to work with than 60/40 because it has a
lower melting point, and being a eutectic alloy, it has no plastic state
- it goes right from a liquid to a solid, therefore no cold solder
joints resulting from crystallization from movement of the connection
during the pl
Hello John.
I've built a several Elecraft kits -
Don't try to build it without a temperature-controlled solder station.
I use an Aoyue 937 (No connection to them - just a satisfied customer).
But there are plenty others.
Also make sure you use nice solder - like .032 60/40 solder.
A digital mul
John,
Pay attention to the soldering. If you are not 'solder skilled', check
out the soldering tutorial at the Elecraft website.
Do a good job of stripping and tinning the leads of the toroids. The
'solder blob' method works best IMHO.
Before you begin, take note of any errata sheets and mark
...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gil G.
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 4:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1
On Mon, 2014-03-24 at 19:42 +, jc3...@comcast.net wrote:
> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built a
On Mon, 2014-03-24 at 19:42 +, jc3...@comcast.net wrote:
> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
> to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
> Any words of wisdom are welcome.
>
> 73, John. KG7IR
Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
Any words of wisdom are welcome.
73, John. KG7IRP
__
Elec
The wired & tested 20/40 meter board has been spoken for, but the unbuilt 17/15
meter board is still available.
Jim - W0EB
-
K1 Band Filter Boards for sale.
I have a new, unopened, unbuilt 2 band (17 and 15 meter) f
K1 Band Filter Boards for sale.
I have a new, unopened, unbuilt 2 band (17 and 15 meter) filter board kit plus
a wired and tested 2 band 40 and 20 meter board for sale. When I got the K1
from an individual who hadn't built it, it came as a 2 band (40 & 20) radio.
I ordered, built & installed t
Ken,
Sorry, I do not have an older K1 manual. If anyone has a pdf copy, I
would like to have it too.
I can tell you how I set the TS offset on these older K1s, but it does
take a few extra pieces of gear.
I use a signal generator (another transmitter working into a dummy load
will do) to pr
try here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K1
look for:
K1 Manual (.pdf)(5.1MB) K1 Owner's Manual, Rev I, April 15, 2011
then look on page 48 of the pdf (page 47 in the manual)
where it says:
Transmit Offset Adjustment
Locate the offset test switch (S2) on the bottom of the RF
Does anyone have a PDF of this older manual, in particular the section on
setting the transmitter offset? TNX!
Ken - ke4rg
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HND it was. I don't know how that could have happened, but it did. I
forgot about that menu option because I never use it.
Thanks for the speedy reply! It's nice to know that there are gurus
like you out there watching out for us.
Ken - N9QIL
On 3/17/2014 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Ken,
Ken,
Did you inadvertently change the menu INP parameter to HND?
If that is OK. try reseating the firmware to clean off any possible
oxidation on the leads and socket.
Still did not fix it? Re-solder R19, R20 and RP5.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/17/2014 7:54 AM, Ken Wezeman wrote:
I have used my K1 f
I have used my K1 for years without a problem. Some time ago the keyer
started sending a few random dits and dahs in the middle of a QSO for no
obvious reason. I let it sit for a few days while I thought about that
and when I tried it again it worked normally. Now it has a new problem.
The l
Hi All,
Notwithstanding the commentary to the contrary, I retrofitted my K1 some
years back with the backlight option. It certainly wasn't a "piece of
cake", but it wasn't that daunting either. It just took a little time and
effort. If you assembled your K1, you certainly can do the retrof
I've also installed the backlight retrofit and did not find it particularly
difficult - just a little tedious. The tedious part is removing the remnants of
the old LED pins and cleaning the holes after snipping the LED off.
It helps to have a good solder sucker and braid. Just put on some sooth
Thanks for that input, Eric!
73,
Phil -- Sent from my iPhone 5S
> On Mar 12, 2014, at 11:09, EricJ wrote:
>
> Not so fast, Phil. It IS a fun project. I've done two: my own and one for a
> fellow ham. (That's mine in the photo on the K1 Mods order page) It isn't
> "exceptionally" difficult i
Not so fast, Phil. It IS a fun project. I've done two: my own and one
for a fellow ham. (That's mine in the photo on the K1 Mods order page)
It isn't "exceptionally" difficult if you follow the Elecraft directions
explicitly for the retrofit. If you can build a K1, you can retrofit the
backligh
Peter wrote:
> Retrofitting the K1 backlight is exceptionally difficult, and
> installing new is easy.
Phil wrote:
> Thanks, Peter. I have a 4-band K1 I seldom use
> (S/N #18) and was considering adding the backlight
> as a "fun project". Maybe not so "fun" :-)
I confirm Peter's assessment.
Thanks, Peter. I have a 4-band K1 I seldom use
(S/N #18) and was considering adding the backlight
as a "fun project". Maybe not so "fun" :-)
My less exotic approach of wearing a headlamp will
have to do.
73, Phil w7ox
On 3/12/14, 9:13 AM, Peter Wollan wrote:
Retrofitting the K1 backlight
Got all the information I needed on it. Thanks to all that responded.
Jim - W0EB
I picked up an unopened, 2 band K1 kit from an individual that bought a KX3
before he got around to opening & building the K1. It's arriving today and I
want to install the display backlight option (I don't be
Retrofitting the K1 backlight is exceptionally difficult, and installing
new is easy. You could start assembling the K1, but for sure wait on the
lcd assembly till you get the backlight parts. The assembly instructions
are on the Elecraft site, you can read up on it before anything arrives.
I picked up an unopened, 2 band K1 kit from an individual that bought a KX3
before he got around to opening & building the K1. It's arriving today and I
want to install the display backlight option (I don't believe he had ordered
this option with the kit).
I plan on starting the build as soon
Andy,
On the ohmmeter range, for the most accurate reading, use the scale that
is just above the resistance value you are expecting. In other words,
if you are expecting greater than 10k ohms, use the 20k scale.
or if you are expecting less than 1k, use the 2k range.
If you are using a meter
Thank you don for your points. First off the meter I am using has a maximum
range of 40 M Ohms and I tested each point using the maximum range setting.
The pins that indicated an "OF" reading were number 6, 7, 8, 14 and 16. All
had a specified resistance of >100 k except for 16 which specified>1k.
Andy,
Your "of" indication is a valid measurement - therefore it is a "reading"
It is a higher resistance than the range your meter is set to - switch
to a higher range.
Once your range is above 100k, if it still indicates "of", you know that
the resistance is greater than 100k, therefore all i
I am building the k1 kit and am at the rf board, part 1 test section. Of the
eight points to be tested on the 20 pin connector only four are showing
values. The meter on the other four is indicating "of" or overflow, which
the meters manual indicates as infinity. The values in the instructions do
s
For sale K1-4
Bands: 40,30,20 and 17meters
KAT1 : Automatic Tuner
KNB1: Noise Blanker
Backlight Mod
It is a surplus to my needs, now that I have a KX3. Asking $375. Very good
condition with limited use.
also:
http://www2.opparc.org/mirrors/n0ss/www.n0ss.net/index_k1.html
I'll let you dig for more:
https://www.google.com/search?q=elecraft+K1+assembly
On 2/3/2014 10:56 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxPV_jC4RTE
On 2/3/2014 10:44 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Jim,
None t
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxPV_jC4RTE
On 2/3/2014 10:44 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Jim,
None that I know of, but the manual is straight-forward, just follow
through the assembly steps and you should not have a problem. If there
is something you do not understand, just ask on this reflector an
Jim,
None that I know of, but the manual is straight-forward, just follow
through the assembly steps and you should not have a problem. If there
is something you do not understand, just ask on this reflector and you
are likely to get help quickly.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/1/2014 5:19 PM, Jim Hah
Byron,
Not possible.
The K1-4 has only 2 low pass filters, one has a cutoff frequency above
the 30 meter band and works well for both 40 and 30 meters. The other
has a cutoff above the 15 meter band and works well for 20, 17, and/or
15 meters.
You could use the lower band for 160 meters (wit
Anyone have a schematic to get a K1-4 on 160 meters ???
BYRON / N4AX
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My K1 has been sold. Thanks to all who responded.
Bob - K9OSC
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View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-Sold-tp7582579.html
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I have a like new K1 4-band for sale covering 40/30/20 and 15 meters, S/N
3141. Included is the KAT1 Antenna Tuner, KNB1 Noise Blanker and a custom
red oak tilt stand. Original owner/builder of this radio in a non-smoking
home this radio is in pristine condition. I built this radio very carefull
Mike, thanks for info, will press on with the 15 to 20M change.
Gary
From: Mike Morrow-3 [via Elecraft]
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 9:44 AM
To: wd9dui
Subject: Re: K1 changes?
> I have a K1 SN00738, I am looking for information on changing
> the current 15M frequency to 20M.
> The comb
> I have a K1 SN00738, I am looking for information on changing
> the current 15M frequency to 20M.
> The combination I have is 40M/15M, can I just order the K1B20,
> and change out the parts?
Yes...exactly. You may need to ask Elecraft to send you the wire
for re-winding the 15m toroids...the
I have a K1 SN00738, I am looking for information on changing the current 15M
frequency to 20M.
The combination I have is 40M/15M, can I just order the K1B20, and change
out the parts?
I also have Ver 109 I understand the they now are at 109E, what is the
difference?
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View this message in co
Just want to let the K1 users know, today I completed the ATU KAT1, and the
unit is FB, and in combination with BL2 to my end fed ZEPP wire, fed with
symmetrical feed line, matching goes very Fine. Nice option to enhance the
K1.
73
PE1FJN
Marc
___
Wayne N6KR has addressed the matter of K1 transmit efficiency in his
note at
http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm
Wayne's formula shows the most efficient power setting as a function of
supply voltage. It's easy to remember: square the supply voltage and
divide by 25.
Basically,
The following is not the detail and the variable parameters that
were requested, but FWIW:
My K1 (with LCD backlight, KNB1, KAT1, KFL1-4) on 10.12 MHz
using a 12.6-volt DC supply consumes
On RECEIVE
Low AF volume out 60 mA
High AF volume out 120 mA
On TRANSMIT to 50-ohm
Hello Elecraft K1 users,
You have an Elecraft K1, and are thinking to go to 160m! I followed the idea
that was reported by Don W3FPR in 2006, ordered the X-tal at Andy Fleischer
in Germany(For Europe), and it is working, made yesterday my 1st QSO on
160m.
I made a small manual, with
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
> ...My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V,
> K1 display indicated 13.4V key down.
You likely already know that those two different voltages are
due to the normal voltage drop across the reverse polarity
protection diode RF-D16.
I neglected to mention that
http://w
Thanks for the fast reply Mike!
I forget to mention My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V, K1 display
indicated 13.4V key down.
Will look into the other items thanks.
Mike - NZ1MT
On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:55 PM, Mike Morrow
wrote:
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
> Based on the K1
Mike,
You have already received information on the level of that K1, and I
would not see any need to upgrade the KAT1 firmware.
The maximum power output on 20 meters may be limited due to several
reasons, but the 5 watts does meet specifications. If the actual power
output matches the OUT m
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
> Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below
> I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are
> available that I should implementing.
>
>K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e
That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001
Hi all,
I'm the proud owner of a K1-4 #1066 that appears to be working very well.
Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below I was
wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are available that I
should implementing.
K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e
KFL1-4
The K1 has been sold.
73, Dave NK0E
David Ek wrote:
>Gang,
>
>I never thought I'd do this, but I'm selling my Elecraft K1 4-band QRP
>rig #1066. I purchased and built this radio in 2002 and have used it
>mostly portable for hundreds if not thousands of contacts.
Gang,
I never thought I'd do this, but I'm selling my Elecraft K1 4-band QRP
rig #1066. I purchased and built this radio in 2002 and have used it
mostly portable for hundreds if not thousands of contacts. Includes KAT1
internal tuner, KBT1 internal battery pack, and the backlig
I am considering a K1. Would like to meet you and talk about your K1
72
Bob near Madison
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_
I'm considering the K1 kit and would like to speak with K1 owners in
Southern Wisconin.
My QTH is 30miles West of Madison. I am willing to drive to meet you and
your K1. Hi Hi
Please feel free to email me at boband...@tds.net
72
Bob
__
El
Eric,
You inadvertently changed a menu setting.
The band that is displayed is a menu setting. Enter the menu and scroll
to the "b3" setting - if it shows "b1" (or some different number), tap
BAND until to changes to b3 - then EDIT the parameter - tap BAND to
change it to 14 mHz.
73,
Don W3
10:16:08 -0800
> From: eric_c...@hotmail.com
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Band Display Problem
>
> K1, SN 1976 with 1.09E firmware, 4 band module and ATU. It's been
> working flawlessly since I built it around 2005 or so.
>
> It works fine on rec
- WC7S in Wy
> Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 10:16:08 -0800
> From: eric_c...@hotmail.com
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Band Display Problem
>
> K1, SN 1976 with 1.09E firmware, 4 band module and ATU. It's been
> working flawlessly since I
It sounds to me like a menu setting for band 3 and not a hardware problem.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
---Original Message---
From: EricJ
Date: 11/7/2013 1:16:28 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Band Display Problem
K1, SN 1976 with 1.09E
K1, SN 1976 with 1.09E firmware, 4 band module and ATU. It's been
working flawlessly since I built it around 2005 or so.
It works fine on receive and transmit on all bands except that when
changing bands it displays 7, 10, 10, 21. Though indicating 10 mhz, it
works fine on 14 mhz, but the disp
Jim,
The K1 actually counts the VFO frequency, so if you have calibrated the
CAL OPF frequency to the ARRL broadcasts, you should be good for that
entire band.
The unfortunate part is that the ARRL broadcasts may not be exactly on
the published frequencies, so do a double check several days ru
Thanks for the responses. Now that I know it is a very weak signal I'm
listening for, I've listened more closely and I do hear a tone just below the
band edges. (These old ears don't work like they used to). It seems there
are too many variables to use this as an accurate signal to align the
Mike,
Are you misinterpreting the meaning of "zero-beat"?
Zero-beat does not mean tuning the signal to zero audio frequency.
It does mean that the signal is tuned to the same pitch as another tone
(the sidetone). When the two tones are close in frequency, you will
hear a 3rd low pitched tone
Don wrote:
> While what you say about the K1 display indicating the transmit carrier
> frequency is technically correct, I believe you are over-complicating
> things. The K1 (and all Elecraft products) properly calibrated will
> indicate the transmit carrier frequency - so when receiving 10 MH
Mike,
While what you say about the K1 display indicating the transmit carrier
frequency is technically correct, I believe you are over-complicating
things. The K1 (and all Elecraft products) properly calibrated will
indicate the transmit carrier frequency - so when receiving 10 MHz WWV,
the
I wrote:
> My K1 uses an CW offset of 600 Hz. That means that when my K1
> is zero beat with 1 MHz WWV, the frequency displayed should
> be 600 Hz below 1 kHz, or .6 kHz.
That last figure should have been ".4 kHz".
Mike / KK5F
Jim / KI9M wrote:
> Page 58 refers to "internally-generated band edge signals".
>
> I can't seem to find it. Does the K1 really have an internally
> generated signal?
There is no such signal there that is purposely designed for such
use. But there is a signal at the *lower* edge of a band begin
Jim,
If you have no other signal source, the K1 "raspy" signal at 99.7 below
the band edge will get the frequency calibration "in the ballpark". It
may be off by 0.1 kHz or so.
If you cannot find it, you may have a receive sensitivity problem with
your K1 and that is quite another problem.
Referring to operating frequency calibration:
Page 41 of the manual reads, "In the case of the internally generated
signal, tap W P M + or W P M - until the display reads 99.7."
Page 58 refers to "internally-generated band edge signals".
I also noticed the K2 manual mentions the "internally
I don't have ready access to a transmitter or signal generator. I can try to
come up with something.
I did find that I can hear the third harmonic of XG2 7040Mhz at 21120 Mhz
with my general coverage receiver when I connect the output to the receiver
antenna. I pushed some of the windings on K1'
John,
If you cannot find a signal generator, do you (or a friend) have a
transmitter that can produce a signal on 15 meters? If so (that is a
signal generator), run it into a dummy load and connect a wire "antenna"
to the K1 placed near enough to the dummy load to produce a signal that
you c
Don,
thanks for the tip. The problem was the band pass filter adjustment.
I don't have a signal generator that will cover K1's 15m reception. So when
I built the radio I only tuned it for operation on 20m. Recently I tried to
tuning the filters on 15m by tuning in W1AW code practice frequency,
John,
The most common cause of 20 meter failure on the K1 is the 22 MHz
crystal on the filter board is not active enough to provide a sufficient
LO for the Pre-Mixer.
It is possible that the 15 meter crystal (29 MHz) is not sufficiently
active too, but I don't have enough information to draw a
My K1-4 was working well when I first built it. Now I'm having some problems
on 20m and maybe also 15m. Here is what it is doing:
40m and 30m: receives well and transmits 7 watts as calculated with voltage
measurements on the DL1 dummy load.
20m : no reception and no signal heard from the XG2
Don and all on the post thanks for help and input. The K1 is working/playing
great. Just worked Randy KB4QQJ on 40m with his KX3 sounding great as well. Now
I must save up for my K2...
73-Scotty-NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
TU GORDON
--
On the 8th day. God created Amateur Radio and Baseball.
BTW: God is the biggest baseball fan of all,
Genesis 1-1 says so, In the big inning..
NAQCC #0420
SKCC #089
FP #567
4SQRP #169
Wiol ono
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Hey I got the ATU figured out. My bad as the kids say. I did not exit the menu
when taking the tests. All the options are installed now. Now off to make more
QSO's. Ready for pbmme polar bear QRP weekend. Grrr...
73-Scotty-NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Scotty Long wro
Scotty,
You should be looking for the lowest voltage available - if it in not in
the low millivolt range, (less than 10 mV) you have some problem. The
most common cause of problems is T1. Inadequately stripped and tinned
toroid leads, leads in the wrong holes, the toroid wound in the wrong
I changed out the headphone jack now the speaker is working again thank you.
What voltage am I looking for at TP1 SWR bridge adjustment??? mV - V? On the
KAT1.
T1 is wound correctly.
Relays all soldered.
Thank you,
Scotty/NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
s of experience, Hi!
73 Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Eijlander
(PA0PJE)
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 2:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 headphone jack
>
nt: Monday, October 07, 2013 2:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 headphone jack
> Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
> in my K2 (built in 2000) and
> it has had a lot use.
Mine went broke after some 6 years of use so I ordered a new one.
Still need to replace i
Yes it is not a big deal by any means as I use headphones about 100% anyway.
Just nice for listening to rag chews while working in the shack.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
"Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)" wrote:
> Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
> in my K2 (built in 2000) and
> it has had a
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
in my K2 (built in 2000) and
it has had a lot use.
Mine went broke after some 6 years of use so I ordered a new one.
Still need to replace it...:-)
I have a dummy plug at hand to turn off the internal speaker of my K2,
the headphone jack connection is still ok, just t
Mine as well and I usually just leave the headphones plugged in...
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
I don't know about options, but FWIW, it seems to be a problem with *some*
jacks. I still have the original headphone jack in my K2 (built in 2000) and
it has ha
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