Don,
I borrowed a couple of new relays from my KAT2 kit. I installed K1 and
K2 with the correct orientation this time. This immediately resolved all
transmit and receive problems. I have pushed on to successfully build
the KNB2, KBT2 and I'm now working on the KSB2. No further problems have
Jerry,
I tried briefly to remove the relay for re-use. I decided quickly,
however, after starting with my equipment on hand and skill level, it
made more sense to go for full demolition since the cost of replacement
is low. I will keep your method in mind for future. I have found when
Jerry,
I have had only marginal success with the Soldapullt, but I have a Hakko
808 that works very well - with the correct tip it does the job nicely -
it heats and then you pull the trigger to extract the solder. Not
inexpensive, but when I was doing repairs on a daily basis, it was a
On 2021-07-03 11:03, VA1CQ wrote:
Any tips on removing them would be appreciated.
*** Crush them with a pair of pointy vise-grips? Of course, I'd try
desoldering them first. Hold the heat on a bit longer than seems
necessary, because you need to melt that solder all the way to the other
Don,
I took your advice and crushed those two relays. Even doing that, it was
tough enough to get both relays out and clean out the solder pad holes.
It's done and the K2 is ready for me to pop in two new relays. I even
used a couple toothpicks in the process. I confirmed the stenciled
Murray,
Yes, Elecraft has those relays.
If you do not have adequate desoldering gear, the the best way to remove
them is to crush the case so you can remove the pins one at a time.
Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the holes, push it
out with a wooden toothpick. Use
Hi Don,
I have discovered I installed K1 and K2 backwards. The location bar on
each relay is facing in the opposite direction ("down") from the other
relays. The manual Parts Placement Drawing clearly shows all relays
oriented vertically must have the bar on the relay at the "top". I can't
Murray,
The 7.6 volts on the 8 volt power rail is not a problem.
The relays operate on 5 volts output from U1.
It is possible that the relays have developed oxidation - if there is
any damage to the relay case. Otherwise, the relay contacts should be
good - they are good for more than 100k
Hi Geert,
Coincidentally, while troubleshooting today I was listening to relays!
There is a different sound depending on whether one relay clicks or more
than one clicks. Yes, there are relays clicking as I change the band. A
different number of relays operate depending on which band you
Further troubleshooting of my new K2 build reveals that transmit and
receive on the 30-metre band works well. But all other bands, transmit
and receive, don't work.
...
I am trying to think of what's common among all bands except 30 metres,
transmit and receive, where a problem could lie. The
Hi Jerry,
Your advice is good. I never did get that soldering iron technique to
work for stripping the toroid wire. I used the fine sandpaper supplied
with the K2 to manually bare each wire end. After I soldered, for each
connection, I checked using an ohm meter for continuity between solder
Hi Don,
I forgot to add my name or call on my last post. I agree with that policy.
Yes, the K2 seems to be fully operational on 30 metres. I even briefly
tried setting 10 W transmit power and it actually transmitted at 10
watts. I was able to tweak the 30 metre bandpass filter and I could see
I would suggest that since 30 meters is working OK, the K2 is capable of
both transmit and receive.
Furthermore, I would expect the problem to be in the bandpass filter tuning.
Be certain to follow the band order for tuning, otherwise you will be
chasing your tail.
Use the RP Probe (provided
On 2021-07-01 14:34, VA1CQ wrote:
Further troubleshooting of my new K2 build reveals that transmit and
receive on the 30-metre band works well. But all other bands, transmit
and receive, don't work.
*** I would carefully check the connections to the toroids. Yeah, that
procedure for stripping
Further troubleshooting of my new K2 build reveals that transmit and
receive on the 30-metre band works well. But all other bands, transmit
and receive, don't work.
On transmit on non-working bands, the output signal doesn't make it past
the output of the band-pass filters (W6). But on 30
15 matches
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