If I was 40 years younger then buying such a tool might be a good
investment, like many of the tools I currently own. But failing
eyesight and
unsteady hands mean that construction involving SMT parts is now out
of the
question, and any electronic constructional activity has become more
of a
Brian Lloyd-6 wrote:
>
>
> I know that I am not about to manufacture my own hot-air rework tool,
> especially when I can purchase one for $79(us).
> (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/9445
> ) I also know that I am going to continue to encounter SMT if I
> continue playing
what a brilliant idea -pity, cos I was getting myself worked up to buy
a new toy - er I mean tool!
Great Peter, thanks.
--
If you have the same ideas as everybody else but have them one week
earlier
than everyone else then you will be hailed as a visionary. But if you
have
them five years
Unfortunately, they all seam to be 110v input! pity, because there is
some good stuff on there.
I guess I could use a 110 to 240v transformer.
--
As a well spent day brings happy sleep, so life well used brings happy
death. -Leonardo da Vinci, painter, engineer, musician, and scientist
(1452-151
Screwfix do a very good heat gun for approx £15 - I have one and they
are very good, I just didn't think it would be hot enough. Also I'd
assumed the guns intended for this purpose had a very small nozzle.
--
Either that wallpaper goes, or I do. - last words of Oscar Wild
On 22 Jun 2008, at 0
Brian WB6RQN wrote:
Now people get to decide for themselves how they want to spend their
time and their money.
---
Exactly. Your original post was a good one, nor did I respond to it.
I observed that we Hams have a very wide range of reasons for being Hams and
reasons for the
Brian,
That one part of your argument I have shown below says it all for me.
Good tools *will* last a long time and serve their purpose very well
over their lifetime. Some inexpensive tools are just not up to the
task, and sometimes fail after a few uses.
I consider tool purchases carefull
On Jun 22, 2008, at 1:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
For many Hams today one of the most interesting parts of Amateur
Radio is
figuring out how to get something done without all the resources
we'd expect
to find in a well-financed laboratory. It isn't all about money,
although
most of us l
For many Hams today one of the most interesting parts of Amateur Radio is
figuring out how to get something done without all the resources we'd expect
to find in a well-financed laboratory. It isn't all about money, although
most of us live on a strict budget. It's the challenge to find a way and
d
Brian Lloyd-6 wrote:
>
> Instead of "trying" things, why not use the tools that professionals
> use? It just isn't that hard nor is it all that expensive. My
> temperature-controlled hot-air gun just wasn't all that expensive.
>
I'm sorry, Brian, but here in the real world, spending $100 on
I am in no great hurry to do any mods, since the lack of them is not
making
any noticeable difference to my K3. My concern is that when trying
to use
the desoldering braid, enough solder will remain to keep the part in
place,
and one will end up doing it too many times and eventually lifting
This was the first time I had worked on surface mount, although I
have more than 20 years experience of PCB work from a previous job.
An amateur grade heat gun on an expensive K3 sounds like a disaster
in the making to me! Proper SMD hot air re-work stations cost
thousands, they cost that m
While I have no argument with heat guns, I have no trouble at all with a
temperature controlled soldering iron when used properly with the correct
solder and flux.
The "trick" is to forget everything you ever knew about soldering leaded
parts! The best techniques for SMDs are often those that woul
One thing I haven't heard mention so far: I believe these boards are made
to the latest ROHS, therefore lead-free solder is used, therefore the
de-soldering temperature is higher than some irons might be capable of. At
my place of work we had to replace all our irons with higher temperature
s
Several folks have expressed concern about their ability to remove SMDs from
a PC board without damaging the underlying copper pads.
For those who have Hakko 936-x T/C soldering stations, you may wish to
consider either (or both) of the available Hakko SMD removal tips:
http://www.kiesub.com/
If you have that Circuit Specialists soldering station, they sell a SMD iron
for it (has two probes) for $30. That is what I used to make the HAGC mod
to my K3. Works great.
Phil - AD5X
___
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Dave G4AON wrote:
>
> David
>
> I just used a 12 Watt Antex soldering iron type M, Maplin part number
> YU90X. They come with a pointed bit as standard. You also need solder
> wick (or Soldamop) Maplin part number N58AL and stainless steel tweezers.
>
> Working on the K3 might sound a little
David
I just used a 12 Watt Antex soldering iron type M, Maplin part number
YU90X. They come with a pointed bit as standard. You also need solder
wick (or Soldamop) Maplin part number N58AL and stainless steel tweezers.
Working on the K3 might sound a little daunting, but one of my
technicia
Has anyone in the UK come across similar items as those on this page
(http://www.zianet.com/erg/SMT_Soldering.html)?
I need to make the K3 mods and was wondering if an investment in a
heat gun would be worthwhile (it's not like SMT is going to go away!).
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
A good cook is
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