Apparently, based on the input here, I'm doing it all wrong by crimp and
solder. But since I started that, I've not had a failure (back when Molex
was king). Most times the actual connection is secured from motion (not
vibration) while the tails are allowed to move, if needed. Yes, I use the
pro
s.
> 73, Fred
>
> -Original Message-
> From:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Adrian
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 2:41 PM
> To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
>
>
As far as I know Teflon is a good insulator, capable of high
temperatures and pressures. If you say teflon wire, you give it the
false interpretation of being a conductor., like the guy that said
solder was a "poor"" conductor, really?
I did volt drop tests , I have professional crimp sets and
ecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
And if one uses silver based solder?
Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while
from now.
Rick wa6nhc
Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos
On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" wrote:
> D
I have been told, sometimes by reliable sources, that proper crimping
actually pressure welds the contact to the copper wire. Soldering on
the other hand heats the copper to around 750F and it then cools fairly
fast which hardens it. Then, under vibration, it fatigues and breaks.
I've heard t
And if one uses silver based solder?
Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while
from now.
Rick wa6nhc
Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos
On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" wrote:
> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *
I agree about the inexpensive crimping tools...possibly not about prohibitively
expensive. A small array of adequate crimping tools can cost several hundred
dollars which I don't think is too much when you consider the money spent on
just one high end transceiver. I think those flat plate crimpe
Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals
and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is
no "one size fits all" crimping tool, and I believe there lies the
problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper
crimping tool for ea
You've hit on why the auto industry uses crimp also (probably because of cost
as much as anything too). When a wire is soldered, a bit of the solder tins up
the wire strands and vibration or flexing can quickly cause the wire to break
and negate the reason we use stranded wire in the first place
What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell
me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered
that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under
vibration. I could be making it all up.
I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are
Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly*
better than the other?
Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a
fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the
cable and connector through which the current
A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder
is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the
wire to the terminal.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 24, 2012, at 1:13 PM, "Rick Bates" wrote:
> I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but us
Absolutely. I bought a power cable from West Mountain and one of the leads (the
red one) just fell out of the crimp connector. So much for trusting the
"professional".
I do all of my crimps now and do not solder any. I use the best crimp tool.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 24, 2012, at 11:34 AM, "W0
I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to
other ham gear. I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they
are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an
external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors).
For high c
Active 3605, V4 Passive 3606
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike Fatchett
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Glad you found
Glad you found it Lee!
Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the
Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more
expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage
connectors used.
Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is cr
Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade
fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the
fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing those
soon.
Lee - K0WA
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