I missed the beginning of this thread, but I went through hell with similar
problem. if you de-select Display Using Monitor Compensation in Photoshop's
RGB Setup dialog box, and the problem goes away, then read this: Adobe has
a page about it with a fix. http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/1e0
I have had a very poor experience with Umax, because the factory will not do
email support and requires you to phone them. Even if your unit is under
warranty you have to pay for the phone call, so my phone bill shows a charge
of $15.75 for waiting over half an hour on hold, and that is PER CALL.
I have long been a fine art printer for other photographers and museums, and
printed on cold heads and condensers for many years (Leitz, Omega, Aristo
etc, five enlarger darkroom for one person), and have read every one of
Ansel Adams and Fred Pickers books and many magazine articles, and am very
I have a full digital darkroom, and chemical as well. The market is strong
in both. Digital prints are selling very well, if priced right ($10-12
wholesale, $20-30 retail, for 11x14). Many young people who are trying to
get art photography shows in this region are finding that even coffee shops
Camera repairman said to use lens cleaning tissue only, nothing else.
> Art wrote:
> Does he suggest a specific type of tissue (like a Kim-wipe?), or just as
> soft a one as possible (again with NO pressure)
to answer another item: The brush that came with your scanner has very
little to do with
I bought a spare pair on ebay for $12.
I modify them for obsolete film formats, such as 126, 40mm, etc.
good luck
Thomas Robinson
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or
best way to get a glass carrier is to get anti-newton slide glass and build
it yourself on an extra holder. If you can copy the Focomat method, you
will get maximum sharpness and minimum glass (dust).
Tom Robinson
-
Many manufacturers of glass slide mounts make anti-newton ring glass. If
you can get a few sample slide mounts, that is all you need. Gepe is a good
brand.
These work well in the Polaroid scanners.
If you are familiar with a focomat enlarger, try to duplicate what they are
doing. Otherwise, t
I have searched several archives for the latest on this, I don't have lots
of time tonight, so here is the SHORT VERSION. (many details are omitted
here)
The general consensus of professional archivists is that is probably ok to
use water base ink applied by soft point pens, but only in the middle
I scan mostly old Kodachromes from before 1960. VS generally gives much
better shadow detail than Silverfast or Insight. I cannot begin to match
shadow detail with the other programs, so I rarely bother trying anymore.
However, I had a slide which came out with a weird color cast in VS that I
co
By request, here is a re-post of how I accessed the mirror for cleaning
without dismantling the works. I did remove the top cover, which pops off
after four catches on the bottom are sprung open.
The mirror of course hinges while scanning, so I turned on the scanner power
(with the lid removed),
I use a Nikon Coolpix 885 and an old Nikon slide copier attachment. I am
able to quickly get digital files from old slides, as well as motion picture
film. For medium and large format negatives, I use the Nikon on a copy
stand and shoot over a light table. It is good enough to print out an 8x10
Hello Guido
I have been using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean slides. I remove the film
from the mount. Kodak recommends adding a teaspoon of ammonia to a cup of
denatured alcohol. It works very well. It also removes the protective
lacquer found on pre-1957 Kodachrome. Two minute maximum time.
Hello, i have put up a new tutorial about scanning 35mm negative and
Kodachrome slides for maximum quality using desktop slide scanners. There
is some wet treatment with ultrasonic cleaning. I would appreciate any
comments about these techniques, or suggestions for improvement. thanks
http://ww
LAURIE SOLOMON asked if my digital prints apparently look better "because of
their scanning in 8-bit versus 16-bit and not because of some other
factor...?" In addition to the hi bit factor, I make serious efforts in
color balance, defect removal, perspective correction, and anything else i
can fig
Hello my question is about cleaning film. Does anyone have any practical
experience using ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning transparency film? Any
recommendations about solvents, particularly versions of Naptha? I think the
best system is the Lipsner Smith ultrasonic film cleaner, but it is for
mo
Hello, i am having difficulty cleaning slides because of scratches. It
seems that anything used to clean a Kodachrome causes small scratches. I
have tried cotton wipes, tp, kimwipes, lens cleaning tissue. I never use
the same wipe twice. I do exactly what the Kodak website recommends for
cleani
Henk de Jong wrote:
> In the beginning of this discussion someone wrote that
> advocating in favour of 16bit/channel was wrong advise to newbies. And
> that was the moment I jumped in. Let the newbies find out themselves, let
> them work out there own workflow in which they are happy and produci
>> in excellent condition. Hi bit workflows are much harder to do, take far
>> more time, and use more storage space. However learning them can improve
> Why are high bit worksflows harder and take more time? Because of the
> Photoshop limitations? Wouldn't a 16bit clean program relieve you of t
Hello Filmscanners, i just put up a brief tutorial about removing film from
Kodachrome slide mounts. Anyone who is experienced doing this is invited to
look at the web page and let me know if this is, in fact, the best way to do
it and if the ideas are clearly expressed, or perhaps the descriptio
Check out this whole new way of telecine.
http://www.moviestuff.tv/wp_xp.html
It uses a digital camera and shoots frame by frame, using the camera's own
lens and not using any projector lens. It shoots right off the film, and
give you individual image files, up to 6 frames per second depending on
my question is whether Vuescan will enable the Epson Perfection 1260 scanner
(not the 1260 Photo) to scan in 48 bit RGB. The Epson driver will not allow
this.
tom robinson
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Hello Brad,
If you want quality, direct scanning is much preferable to optical copys.
Scanning negatives is also preferable to POP printing, with one exception.
That is if the prints are going to be reproduced by a four color press, with
color inks (like magazines and most books).
If you simply w
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 00:00:01 -
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [filmscanners_Digest] filmscanners Digest for Thu 19 Feb, 2004
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> Topic: [filmscanners] ADMIN: List temporary su
FWIW, I wrote the repair info posted in Jan 03 by Thomas Maugham, he was
reprinting my earlier post. About the front surface mirror cleaning, all of
the info is included in this post. What you need to know is to use
denatured alcohol, use a tissue to swipe it across the mirror with no
pressure, a
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or 'unsubscribe filmscanners_digest' (as appropriate) in the message title or body
soft. You also lose resolution on the dust and scratches,
> but you can't have one without the other (as Doris Day used to sing).
>
> Bob Frost.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "HPA" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> DIFFUSION OF LIGHT SOURCE: The P
Hello, can anyone suggest where to start, I need a large scanner, ideally
20x24 but perhaps a bit smaller may work. It definitely needs to be larger
than A3. I can use USB, FW, or SCSI. I have macs. Any ideas? thanks
tom robinson
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