wrote:
> I think item 3 might be the culprit.
Nice theory but the mould doesn't seem to show any preference for the film
rebate, which is where handling has occurred.
Regards
Tony Sleep - http://www.halftone.co.uk
A-ha
You may be onto something...
1) Mold can be found on all surfaces, but especially organic ones, like
hands
2) Enlargers provide heat while in use, probably promoting mold growth
3) handled negs may end us with body oils on the edges which may
encourage growth of mold
4) possibly just the
We (Tony and I) live in somewhat similar climates. This area (Victoria
BC, Canada), also referred to as "the wet coast" is a rain forest. Many
Brits feel very at home here. Long soggy gray fall, winter and spring.
Our home is not particularly dry, in fact, quite the opposite, a factor
often poi
bob geoghegan wrote:
> Conditions are the big variable for mold I've been reviewing &
> scanning 300+ rolls of 25-year old Tri-X & HP5 negs that were well
> washed,
> stored in mostly good quality plastic pages,
Glassine pages in loose leaf binders here, in a steel storage cabinet
subject to nor
wrote:
> My comment is based on the stability of silver versus dye. Is B&W more
> likely to get mold versus color transparency or negatives?
It's the gelatin that the mould likes, it doesn't care what the image is
formed from. I have plenty of examples of all types :(
Regards
Tony Sleep - htt
-Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 3:15 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Modern photography...
> >
> > My c
ECTED] On Behalf Of
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 3:15 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Modern photography...
>
> My comment is based on the stability of silver versus dye.
> Is B&W more likely to get mold versus color transpa
My comment is based on the stability of silver versus dye. Is B&W more
likely to get mold versus color transparency or negatives?
Tony Sleep wrote:
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>There is nothing like B&W negatives for longevity.
>>
>>
>
>You think? I'm scanning negs from 20-30 years ago before it's too late.
Interesting comments. I also shoot B&W film, scan the negs and print
on inkjet printers. I started out with a simple C84 (now a C86) and the
MIS quadtone inks. Very simple, inexpensive and does a wonderful
job on matte papers up to 8x10. I tend to print 5x7 on this printer though.
I'm also just st
wrote:
> There is nothing like B&W negatives for longevity.
You think? I'm scanning negs from 20-30 years ago before it's too late.
Mould is a big issue and a swine to try and fix. These were very well
processed and washed but ironically that encourages mould. OK, storage in a
humidity and temp
Ken McKaba wrote:
> I have been out of touch with photography for a few years
> and recently dusted off my old Rolleiflex 6x6 to find
> myself in the digital age. I am trying to make sense of
> how serious photography is done in the 21st century.
> I've brought the issue up to various people and e
Hi lists,
> That is interesting since SCSI is a simple thing to add to a PC, you
> have to wonder why they went GPIB, which is a rather slow interface used
> for electronic instruments. National Instruments more or less owns the
> GPIB business. There is a very hidden form on their website where y
Hi Alex,
> Austin, I noticed you use Leafscan 45.
I do.
> So I begun to consider selling my leg and arm (and also my wife, car,
> house and children) :-) for Nikon LS9000 till encountered people's
> recommendation to go Leafscan 45 route instead.
> What can you say about this one ? Can it still
(1) Print digitally on matte papers with a matte black. The 2200 class
of printers does
a great job on a good matte paper (EEM or a cotton fiber paper). Good
print longevity
as well. For glossy, try a paper like Epson Semi-Gloss. Ideally, you'll
want glop
(Epson 1800) or a coating spray like print
Austin, I noticed you use Leafscan 45.
I stepped up into meadium format (6x7) about a half year ago and then
my main headache became the inability of quality scanning at my home
convenience as I used to with my 35mm by Nikon IV ED.
Flatbeds are out of question, I've tried a few of recent machines a
Hi,
> I find ink jet prints look a bit odd in the dark areas as there is more
> ink plopped on the page.
Have you seen a quad-tone/Piezography print, as opposed to a black-only
inkjet print?
> I haven't seen any BW quads.
Then, I suggest you do ;-)
> I'd like to understand why you use Tri-X ra
Ken McKaba wrote:
>I have been out of touch with photography for a few years
>and recently dusted off my old Rolleiflex 6x6 to find
>myself in the digital age. I am trying to make sense of
>how serious photography is done in the 21st century.
>I've brought the issue up to various people and every
Hi Ken,
> -Is hours in the darkroom this still the best way to get
> fantastic B&W pics?
Not in my opinion...read on...
> -Should I shoot film then use a film scanner to
> manipulate and print?
IMO, yes.
> -Which film?
For B&W, I shoot Tri-X and Plus-X.
> -Should I shoot digital then use Pho
Bosko Loncarevic wrote:
> Is there a list archive that I could consult before asking a question(s)
> that may have been thoroughly discussed in the past?
Hi,
Mail headers contain the archive address, posting and unsubscribe addresses
and instructions. Unsubscribe info also appear in the mail foo
http://www.mail-archive.com/filmscanners@halftone.co.uk/
Warren
--- Bosko Loncarevic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi everybody
>
> Is there a list archive that I could consult before
> asking a question(s)
> that may have been thoroughly discussed in the past?
>
> +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
My brother has the old XA, for many years now, and the Canon 350D, at about
30 oz with lens, must be about 4x the mass, and it isn't going to fit in
anybody's shirt pocket.
Berry
On 4/25/05 7:34 AM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> David J. Littleboy wrote
>
>> The small-
I work mostly in color, but I am interested to know where I might find a
comparison of Epson 2200 B&W with Quadtone B&W. I read a review once that
thought very highly of the 2200 B&W. Does anyone think it would be
worthwhile to set up my old 1160 with Quadtone, rather than simply use the
2200? L
Not sure how it works on a Nikon, but on my Sprintscan 120 Vuescan
compensated for the orange mask on color neg by altering exposure
times, rather than just twiddling bits, so scanning B&W as raw color
neg gave me three differently exposed channels to combine as needed.
Almost enough to save pushed
> Hi,
>
> I know this question has been asked in the past (and slightly
> off-topic) but times change so I'd thought I'd raise it again.
>
> I recently read an article about a photographer who started
> out with digital (Fujifilm S2 Pro) but then switched to
> medium format for colour and to an Oly
matrix used in the halftone cells.
>But I could be wrong about this. Moreover, I believe that many quality
>service bureaus and labs as well as printers employ RIPs.
>
>Original Message
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
&g
ve no objection to. I am responding
>just clarify what I was trying to say so that there would be no
>misunderstanding.
>
>
>Original Message
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 7:47 PM
>
L PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Compact Cameras
> The next time I'm at the photo lab (which also has a print
> service), I'm going to pick their brain regarding RIPs versus
> just using the print driver. It seems to me that software is
> software, i.e. the RIP is just d
erstanding.
Original Message
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 7:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Compact Cameras
> As for bronzing, just print matte papers and it's a non
> issue. I ha
I had the original plug-in system, but I now have the current ICC system.
Austin Franklin wrote:
>>You should check out the PeizographyBW Black and White inkjet printing
>>system from Jon Cone (and inkjetmall.com). It is really amazing. No
>>bronzing, no metemerism, no fading, rich deep black
d, the size
>of the enlargement that can be made, or the resulting prints (there are
>some colors that digital does not do as good a job at capturing as film
>does; but they tend to be on the extremes and not the run of the mill
>colors).
>
>Original Message
>From:
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm waiting for some company to release a really capable small digicam with
a decent APS sensor, a truly superb lens (maybe a prime in the 40mm equiv.
range) and I guess some kind of deluxe EVF. Optical RF based VF is probably
hoping for too much :-) I imagin
I have no dispute with anything you have said below.
Original Message
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Austin Franklin
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 7:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] RE: Compact Cameras
> Hi Laurie,
>
>> I am f
t they tend to be on the extremes and not the run of the mill
colors).
Original Message
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 4:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Compact Cameras
> I think the
> You should check out the PeizographyBW Black and White inkjet printing
> system from Jon Cone (and inkjetmall.com). It is really amazing. No
> bronzing, no metemerism, no fading, rich deep black and long tonal
> scale. It is really, really very good.
Hi Lotusm50,
Do you have the original,
Hi Laurie,
> I am familiar with it and have heard good things about it from users; BUT
> that is one of the sorts of things that I consider as the EXTRA WORK
> required to remedy the issues I am speaking of. :-)
It's not an issue if you do a couple of things...as you touch on...
> First, I belie
IL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 2:21 PM
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Compact Cameras
>>
>>You should check out the PeizographyBW Black and White inkjet printing
>>system from Jon Cone (a
day, April 24, 2005 2:21 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Compact Cameras
>
> You should check out the PeizographyBW Black and White inkjet printing
> system from Jon Cone (and inkjetmall.com). It is really amazing. No
> bronzing, no metemerism, no fading, ric
You should check out the PeizographyBW Black and White inkjet printing
system from Jon Cone (and inkjetmall.com). It is really amazing. No
bronzing, no metemerism, no fading, rich deep black and long tonal
scale. It is really, really very good.
LAURIE SOLOMON wrote:
>
>
>First, even at today
While I do not usually engage in this sort of comparative reviewing of
products nor in the recommending of them, I will make two general
observations from my experiences, which need to be taken with a grain of
salt since they entail my biases and preferences.
First, even at today's stage in techno
>So my question is this: have digital compacts reached the stage yet where
>they can give film compacts like the XA a run for their money on image
>quality? I'd be interested in hearing any experiences list members may have
>on this.
As far as I can tell, for pixel counts, yeah, they can. 8.2 MP
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>
So my question is this: have digital compacts reached the stage yet where
they can give film compacts like the XA a run for their money on image
quality? I'd be interested in hearing any experiences list members may have
on this.
<
The small-sensor ca
Actually, I am using Entourage here at home, which is part of the MS Office
suite, not Outlook. Sorry I said Outlook, which I am using at work.
Berry
On 4/22/05 7:40 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My solution is to use as little microsoft software as possible. Hence:
> h
Thanks to all for their advice. I've never tried a Vuescan raw scan or
a positive scan, so I'll be giving those a try. Already, Vuescan is giving
me a nice flat scan that I can tweak.
Me'thinks I'll be delving deeper into the myriad options Vuescan's provides
from here on out.
Now I've also got
My solution is to use as little microsoft software as possible. Hence:
http://www.mozilla.org/
Firefox instead of IE, and Thunderbird instead of Outlook. You can
completely get rid of outlook, but you are forced to keep IE if you
expect to download software from the Microsquish website. I have a pa
Hi Art,
I use MS Entourage. But I'm guessing it was somehow my mistake, because
only the filmscanner emails were missing as far as I know. Bizarre.
Berry
On 4/22/05 7:19 AM, "Arthur Entlich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Just out of interest what email client do you use? (I think I want to
>
One advantage of chromogenic B&W film over the "silver stuff" ;-) is
that you can use IR cleaning methods on the scan (dICE, etc).
Art
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> It's been my experience that chromogenic film is even harder to scan
> since it has an extremely wide latitude. I guess the problem he
>(3) As I experiment and futz, I wonder exactly what Nikon's "auto-exposure"
>is doing to the raw scan results. I can't find any documentation. In my
>film
>speed scans, I can see that AE is trying to control the highlights, but
>I don't
>know how AE is doing this. Is it *only* the equivalent of a
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
First, if you haven't seen this page, take a look: it's got lots of sample
scans.
http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jmdavis/
>>
(1) I haven't been so lucky with FP4+, where the highlights are blown
routinely even with extremely conservative development, as in
HC110
I've got the Kodak kit to do positives from B&W film, but I haven't got
around to using it. I'd like to try the set on Macophot 820C, which is a
very fine grain extended red film.
Vuescan has a "raw" option. By raw, I mean really raw, i.e .no
correction what so ever. I'd suggest doing a raw scan a
Yes, I actually have purchased a license for Vuescan and
haven't given it enough attention, still using NikonScan and
the Coolscan V for most of my work.
I develop my own B&W negs and then scan them (no darkroom).
I shoot mostly HP5+ and FP4+, with occasional TMZ. I dev almost
exclusively with HC
I only get messages very, very sporadically. Is there traffic on
this list that I'm missing?
I'm desparate for tips on getting better scans of B&W film on
a Nikon Coolscan V, understanding Nikon's "autoexposure" vs.
what I might do myself and so forth.
Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>I have a
I have a different problem. My last two posts never showed up.
Berry Ives wrote:
>When I checked my in box this morning, all of my filmscanner mail for the
>last 3 months was gone. Perhaps I did something...maybe just losing it, my
>mind, that is. Anyway, just in case someone expected a respons
http://www.shutterbug.com/features/0405theevolution/
Jawed
Unsubscribe by mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED], with 'unsubscribe filmscanners'
or 'unsubscribe filmscanners_digest' (as appropriate) in the message title
I researched this after getting your email, and it appears you are correct.
It is very misleading when you go to the Kyocera web site. But as you
probably already know, Zeiss quit manufacturing Contax in 1966, then
contracted with Yashica to do that in 1974, to hold down costs. Then
Kyocera bough
At 12:50 PM 12/04/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>I have just purchased a Bronica SQ body from ebay (after using a Mamiya 645
>at college). Wow - seeing those images on the enlarger!
>
>Obviously my Scan Dual will not do MF negs, and I have seen favourable
>reviews of the Epson 4180 (which does
Hello Chris,
Check out http://www.photo-i.co.uk/
The author, Vincent, has done some extensive reviews for the latest
flat bed scanners from Epson and Canon. I owned a Canon 8800F and
recently upgraded to Nikon CoolScan V. Obviously, there is a big
difference between the scans from these scanners.
> From: Austin Franklin
>
> BTW, why would the stepper motor pitch change (if you mean pitch as it
> relates to distance, not to sound...if it relates to sound, then, well,
> forget I asked ;-), which I assume, means it changes resolution?
I mean audio pitch.
--
Ciao, Paul D. DeRoc
The only way to really tell is to look at the commands going to the
scanner. I don't use the Nikon software so I don't know for 100%
certainty if the scanner operation changes with gain. If you can view
the raw scan and see no difference, that would be a good clue. On the
Artixscan, the only chang
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Just to reiterate, most of the time you are just altering the post
procession of the raw scan. That is, more light didn't get through,but
the raw scan was interpreted differently.
>>
That isn't true with Gain adjustments, is it? I thought it causes the scan
to "delay" ov
Just to reiterate, most of the time you are just altering the post
procession of the raw scan. That is, more light didn't get through,but
the raw scan was interpreted differently.
One advantage to scanning slide film is there is less "interpretation"
of the raw scan. Vuescan has a nice calibration
From: "Lotus M50" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>
NikonScan allows you to manually set the setpoints once you have
previewed the scan.
<<
Yes. But if I look at the histogram, the histogram is "clipped" at the
default black and white points, so I get lots of pixels at the minimum and
maxim
>NikonScan allows you to manually set the setpoints once you have
>previewed the scan.
the only problem is that Nikon's scanning software is quite aggressive on the
white points/black points and loves to make things super-contrasty, despite
what I've set in its preferences for black/white points o
From: "Roy Harrington" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>
A while back I had a similar difficulty with some other scanning
software.
I found that by scanning the film as a positive rather than a negative
the software's notion of black/white points was much better --
especially in
the thin regions of
CTED]
> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: NikonScan negative question (was Dynamic
> range question)
>
>
> A while back I had a similar difficulty with some other scanning
> software.
> I found that by scanning the film as a positive rather than a negative
> the software's
A while back I had a similar difficulty with some other scanning
software.
I found that by scanning the film as a positive rather than a negative
the software's notion of black/white points was much better --
especially in
the thin regions of the negative.
Roy
On Saturday, March 26, 2005, at 12:0
Hi Brad,
I think I would be satisfied for a while at least with 200ppi on the largest
prints I can make on a 2200 printer, let's say 12" x 16", which works out to
about 8 megapixels. Since Olympus has an 8 megapixel CCD on the E300
"Evolt" already, I am waiting for them to put it on an E-3, or wh
That would be 35mm if I did the math right. I'm guessing more than 5
years and less than 10. When my old 35mm developed a shutter timing
problem which I deemed not worth the money to fix (about a year or so
ago), I looked at the DSLR market and decided I just wouldn't be happy
with the results, so
So, is that "full frame" 35mm or full frame 645? 25 mp full frame
35mm size is a tall order. How long do you expect to have to wait for
such a thing?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>For me, the color mask has to go. Some sort of Foveon like technology is
>needed. I'd like to see the pixel spacing
For me, the color mask has to go. Some sort of Foveon like technology is
needed. I'd like to see the pixel spacing held to 6um and full frame,
so we are talking 6000x4333, or roughly 25Mpixel.
Brad Davis wrote:
>On 25/3/05 17:33, "Berry Ives" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
>>Still waiting for
On 25/3/05 17:33, "Berry Ives" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Still waiting for the right DSLR for me...
>
> Berry
>
What will make a DSLR the "one" for you?
Just curious.
Brad
Unsubscribe by mail to [EMAIL
When you scan negative film, the histogram is narrow. So I would say
negative film has a low dynamic range.[Yeah, I know slide and negative
film is really the same.]
I think I see the confusion here (or specmanship). The dynamic range of
a dataconverter is related to the number of bits, since the
Hi Berry,
> Austin, with respect to your last sentence, isn't the point
> really that the
> contrast range of negative film is greater than slide film?
I'm not sure what "contrast range" is, but I know what density range is.
Slide film has less exposure latitude, and records on a higher density
r
Austin, with respect to your last sentence, isn't the point really that the
contrast range of negative film is greater than slide film? What I mean is
that you can lose either the shadows or the highlights, but slide film
requires more precise exposures and is more limited in the range that it can
Hi Bill,
> It's been several years, but I seem to remember that when I got my
> Nikon 4000ED filmscanner they were claiming a Dmax of somewhere
> around 3.5 to 4.0, but I measured it (by scanning a Kodachrome IT8
> target slide and examining the greyscale separation) at around 2.1
> to 2.9 (don't
It's been several years, but I seem to remember that when I got my
Nikon 4000ED filmscanner they were claiming a Dmax of somewhere
around 3.5 to 4.0, but I measured it (by scanning a Kodachrome IT8
target slide and examining the greyscale separation) at around 2.1
to 2.9 (don't remember the exact
I think it would be important to get a scanner where averaging can be
done without moving the sensor. Vuescan can do averaging, but with my
Artixscan 4000, the the image must be scanned multiple times. This is
from scratch, i.e .the whole image is scanned multiple times, moving the
film over the se
> From: Andrew Skretvedt
>
> In evaluating a film scanner, one should consider its dynamic range. How
> deep can a scanner reach in and pull out shadow details from a very
> contrasty slide, for example. What about one that might have been
> underexposed a bit as you tried to keep from blowing out
Brad Davis wrote:
> Just a note about the spelling for www.gigapxl.or
Sorry about the error. Defective memory ;)
Regards
Tony Sleep - http://www.halftone.co.uk
Unsubscribe by mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED], with
Yes, I realize that, but the film analysis does compare still camera
film such as provia 100f, velvia, etc. I gather the DOD does frame by
frame analysis, so think of it more like a series of stills where
failure is not an option. The lack of high resolution digital movie
cameras more or less force
this is for movie cameras btw not still images.
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:14:36 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://jcs.mil/RCC/manuals/Assessment_Digital_Optics/Assmt_DigOptics.pdf
> The Tonopah Test Range is where they film planes and missiles doing
> fly-bys for analysis.
I second that emotion - I don't consider myself old at 55, nor a fogie, but
thank you - I just picked up a P&S digital for current use, but for fine art
and long term, I'm still using film.
Maris
Peter Marquis-Kyle wrote:
>
> And thanks (again) for keeping
> this list
> going -- the dwindling cre
Tony Sleep wrote:
> Throw it back at the service technician, it clearly hasn't been
> tested or
> repaired as properly as they stated. Unless there's a transit screw
> done up
> somewhere still :)
It's going back to the shop as soon as I can arrange it. No, it's not a transit
screw...
> I'd hazar
Peter Marquis-Kyle wrote:
> I'm annoyed to find it now produces files with a weird
> waviness. See the effect here:
> http://www.marquis-kyle.com.au/mt/000689.htm
Throw it back at the service technician, it clearly hasn't been tested or
repaired as properly as they stated. Unless there's a trans
I'll go along with the carrier moving the film being the problem. The
stepper motor should be just applying force to a platform that can only
move back and forth. It shouldn't be able to cause a wobble. The stepper
only has 4 unique patterns in how it is energized electronically, so you
would think
I'm not claiming to be an expert on scanner mechanics and electronics,
but to me this looks like it could come from several sources. From a
strictly mechanical basic, it could be something very wrong with the
mechanism that moves the film carrier, causing it to be shifted from
slide to side as it
At 7:58 PM +1000 3/10/05, Peter Marquis-Kyle wrote:
>In the hope that someone might still be reading this list, I'll ask
>a question:
>
>My Nikon LS-30 scanner [snip] was fitted with new scanning and
>focussing stepper motors [and] now produces files with a weird
>waviness. [snip] What could be cau
What happens? It will run hotter without the cooling affect of ICE.
On Mar 10, 2005, at 4:17 AM, Dieder Bylsma wrote:
> try using it without ICE and see what happens
>
> ---
> -
> Unsubscribe by mail to [EMAIL P
Peter
Actually the affect was quite attractive. Perhaps you have found a new
creative medium. In the future, only scan slides that will be enhanced
by your scanner.
In a more serious vein, it looks like the waviness is very smooth and
consistent. But, its affect did not seem to be present in t
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Any chance the film is not being held securely and thus moving as the
> film is being scanned? Are you scanning a film strip or a mounted
> slide?
Thanks for the suggestion. I was scanning a film strip held in the FH-2 film
holder. I just tried scanning a mounted slide -
Lotus M50 wrote:
> Send the scan back to the repair shop (I assume it is Nikon) and ask
> them what's wrong.
Thanks, I will be taking the scanner back to the repairer (who is independent of
Nikon, but is authorised and recommended by the Australian Nikon importers) and
ask them to fix it properly.
Dieder Bylsma wrote:
> try using it without ICE and see what happens
Thanks for the suggestion, Dieder. I just did a test with and without ICE -- it
made no difference to the waves.
Any other ideas?
Peter Marquis-Kyle
-
Send the scan back to the repair shop (I assume it is Nikon) and ask
them what's wrong.
Peter Marquis-Kyle wrote:
>In the hope that someone might still be reading this list, I'll ask a question:
>
>The context: My Nikon LS-30 scanner has just come back from a long stay in the
>repair shop, where
try using it without ICE and see what happens
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or 'unsubscribe filmscanners_digest' (as appropriate) in the message title or
body
Hi Simpy
Very nice input, thanks for giving your time this way
I don't have much time by the moment, but I'll think about your workflow
I'm also a Minolta (Multi pro) / Vuescan / color negs user
At first glance your PS8 plugin/workflow combo must be a real
improvement, first for all Fuji films,
Hi,
I have just seen an ad for the Microtek Scanmaker i900.
I have two questions: Has anyone actually used this scanner or heard
anything definitive about it for scanning 35mm slides?
Does the included Silverfast Ai6 work with BOTH reflective and transparency
scans?
Thanks,
Frank
-
+W slide, then reversing in PS,
> scanning as a B+W neg (TMAX and XP2).
>
> Chris
>
>
>>-Original Message-
>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Arthur Entlich
>>Sent: 05 January 2005 14:41
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Scanning B+W negatives
>
> Congratulations on developing your first B&W film. I hope it was fun.
> I can't do it anymore due to a sulfite allergy, but it was
> usually an enjoyable part of the photographic process,
>
Congratulations on developing your first B&W film. I hope it was fun.
I can't do it anymore due to a sulfite allergy, but it was usually an
enjoyable part of the photographic process, especially once I figured
out how to load the reels correctly in the dark ;-)
Some of the nature of the answer yo
If the scratches are superficial on the non-emulsion side and do not
alter the actual image, using dICE which your scanner has incorporated,
is probably the best answer. You might even find that minor damage to
the image will be corrected this way. As you probably know, dICE cannot
work with silv
Polaroid still has their free dust and scratch remover software (DSR) on
their website:
http://www.polaroid.com/service/software/poladsr/poladsr.html
I've found it to be pretty effective. It won't work with compressed
.tif files, though, so you need to resave those files with the
compression off.
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