Well,
Since no one seems to have mentioned the rather obvious fact that a
standard wind octet plus a couple of flutes is identical with a double
woodwind quintet, I thought I'd point that out, just in case this factoid
may initiate the thought process in some otherwise dormant cerebellum
My topic is...
What can a person do to get by until a valve rebuild when the valves are less than
20% compression (the horn still plays wonderfully though)?
Shane Martin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Get a set of new valve cylinders (rotors) made from the factory, a set a
hair thicker, get it fit into the case (repairman´s work, but very
good repairman only, not a self taught plumber). Should be tight
perfectly then.
Plating does help only for a short period.
Or, if you have a very good fine
I'm looking for a little help from other horn players. On my web site I
have posted a photograph of the Boston Symphony horn section from the early
part of the 20th century. I do not know where I found this photo. If any
one is familiar with it or can identify any of the players, please let me
Calling me stubborn, Steve, - well, you might be right, but in a
different way than you intended, perhaps. Yes, I am stubborn pedantic,
- and as a result, my horns are like new even after 30 years of use. I
sold some of my horns, used for more than ten years, for twice the price
I purchased them
Just make certain to keep both ends of the rotor bearings oiled to prevent
click-clack. If your regular oil isn't working (too light weight), then I
suggest trying sewing machine oil - but just for the bearings, not on the
body of the rotors.
The air pressure change that you create by pulling or
Shane,
If you're down to 20 percent, there's probably not a whole lot you can do.
I used to have a horn that needed a rebuild fairly badly, and I found that
using a heavier oil helped. I simply added a little motor oil to my Al Cass
oil to thicken it up.
Good Luck!
Josh
Original
Hello everyone,
I noticed on my new yamaha 668NDII that it seems like water leaks from
the main f tuning slide. I emptied some water while practicing, and when I
was going to again I grabbed the slide and the metal felt wet. I think it might
be that when I was replacing the slide
Hello Everyone,
I have a Paxman 20L for sale. It is in rawbrass and has a screwbell. The horn is
yellow brass with a rosebrass bell. The serial number puts its manufacture date in
the mid to late 80's. This is a great playing horn in great overall shape, with only
one small dent.
In a message dated 3/10/2004 3:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
What can a person do to get by until a valve rebuild when the valves are less than
20% compression (the horn still
plays wonderfully though)?
Tightening the bearings and taking out endplay usually
10 matches
Mail list logo
