Well I've built my O200 engine mount over the last couple of days, from plans
kindly supplied by Jeff Scott, Thanks Jeff.
But as we all know the plans are for a tail dragger and not a trike, therefore
they don't have provisions for a nose wheel.
Now I've got a nose leg similar to the Dan Diehl ty
Hi all,
While we are on the subject of the new wing profile, I'm just starting my
outer wing panels and though I've followed the plans, it seems that when I get
to sanding the ribs and panels down using the outer stub wing ply template as a
guide, the area around the join at the WAF's won't wor
Yes you have read properly, and no I haven't added the foam and glass to the
so called butt end of the centre section as yet. maybe I should do that and
that will fix my problem.
It's just that the plans call for the ply rib to be used as the guide and it
also says that the rib should be a little w
Just buy a new one, there have been a few serviceable ASI's on ebay
Australia lately.
Gav
> How can repair them ??Or just buy a new one??
> Phil Matheson
http://www.krnet.org/info.html
Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this issue as
documented by someone who
Thanks Don.
Gav
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Reid"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber
> At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
> >Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
> >There must be a structural e
.
>
>> Because you have added to the length of the wing you have added to the
> bending moment at the fuselage (the lift loads are farther from the
> fuselage).
>
I disagree that lift loads are much larger farther from the fuselage on the
new 504xx wing designs!
Maybe someone can shed some light
I didn't get a list with mine either John.
Gav
- Original Message - ,
> I'm building a KR2S.
> As I'm the second owner of the project it is possiblr that the list
> was lost along the way, or sent to a
Sorry all this is for John Bavington,
John all my messaged to your e-mail address bounce right back at me !!! Have
you another address?
Gav
Put a cushion behind her back and let her sit foreword a little!
Gav
- Original Message -
From: "Dean Cooper"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Adjustable Rudder Pedals
> Mark wrote:
> >Has anyone built independantly adjustable rudder pedals,
Hi all,
Does anybody know of any good sources of information for fabricating fibreglass
spinners??
Thanks
Gav
Here's the latest on polishing my canopy.
I bought this canopy from a fellow builder unused for less than half price,
Seemed too good to refuse and in my haste, I failed to notice a fair few
scratches it got while laying around in his workshop.
Fact is when I got it home and out in direct sunligh
Hi All,
I've searched the archives for a good way to remove scratches from lexen, and
can't find an answer.
Can anyone tell me of their successes with lexen and how they went about it??
Thanks
Gav
Can I just add that In a properly balanced turn the fuel will never uncover
the fuel pickups!! gravity has nothing to do with it. It's only when the
ball isn't cantered properly this can happen, and also baffles won't stop
anything except slosh in the tanks.
Gav
- Original Message -
Can anybody see any problems with drilling 1/4 holes in the top longerons to
secure my canopy hinge?
I know 1/4 is a big hole to drill in the longerons but I have been using what
we call "T" nuts over here for anything that I can. They are so convenient
especially for places like the canopy hin
I expected that question and you are exactly right, there is no trouble
getting to the nuts under the longerons. I was just trying to keep some
things standardised.
Thanks I'll contact you off the list.
Gav
Original Message -
From: "Dan Heath"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004
Do most people drill through the longeron or do they use self tapping wood
screws to attach the canopy?
Have you ever seen the tiny little hinges holding the door on your average
Cessna
- Original Message -
From: "Dan Heath"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject:
OK all you technical wizards, can anybody tell me the real difference between
6061 T6 aluminium piano hinges, and 5005 H34 Aluminium piano hinges??
We have already been down the track of extruded verses rolled hinges and the
feeling seems to be that it doesn't matter.
I have the latter availabl
Here we are I've found some info, I just need someone to help me interpret it.
6061 T6
Yield strength 275 mpa
Tensile strength 310 mpa
Elongation 12 %
5005 H34
Yield strength 140 mpa
Tensile strength 160 mpa
Elongation 8 %
Looks like the 6061 T6 is about twice as strong but given how much
Hi all,
Is it necessary to micro the insides of the fuel tanks before glassing as we do
on the exterior surfaces??
I'm just starting on my header tank.
Thanks
Gav
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The final word on fuel tank resin!!!
Today I contacted my local fibreglass supplier, and asked the question about
what I should use to seal the inside of my tanks.
I asked him about using epoxy resin with fuel that has alcohol in it, and he
said he'd check with the technical experts who supply
le
> with epoxy. Are you flying a diesel?
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "GavinandLouise"
> To: "KR builders and pilots"
> Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 6:01 AM
> Subject: KR> Final word on fuel tank resins.
>
>
> > The final
C'mon all you Aussie builders you're a bit slow LOL! I can't believe that
last night while thinking about what rego mark I'll use I checked the CASA
site, and there is only one VH-KR registration mark left. So VH-KRD it will be!
So I've emailed CASA to hold it for me.
VH-KRD was the mark use
Thanks Larry, we were thinking about 60" D x 66" P so I guess we'll go with
that for now.
Gav
>
> I'm running an Ed Sterba 60D X 64P on my 0-200. I think it's a bit
> more tired than other 0-200's in KR's as it has 1850 hours since
> factory overhaul. I started with a 68 pitch but couldn't get
Be careful!! if you don't put enough Carbon to take all the load in
it's own right, you run the risk of it breaking, and then transferring the
load to the timber that it is laminated with. and if you've scrimped on the
timber it'll break as well CRASH Use either one or the other. And
w
I can't understand what all the fuss is about !! It's just a case of using
basic hand tools. Go back to basics and mark out all of your spar dimensions
and get a good quality hand plane. You'll be surprised how quickly the
excess material can be planed away, and accurately too.
That's how all of mi
Hi all,
Just a quick question about the height of the canopies being used.
I have access to a surplus canopy from a locally produced aircraft, and it
measures 15 1/2 inches from the bottom to the top when sitting flat on a table,
and 43 inches wide (which will fit my widened KR2S) sitting flat. W
Mark all I get is pop up spam when I try too open the links to the pdf
files on the page that you sent to me, Is there a problem with this page???
Gav
- Original Message -
From: "Mark Langford"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 2:28 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy Height
> I sho
Peter Just use Hoop pine 3mm plywood it's stronger than most and is approved
in Australia by the Feds!!! There is two brands suitable for our use, one is
Boral and the name of the other escapes me at the moment. Which ever you use
it has to be A/A quality(grade) and structural bond (marine ply) and
Larry could you contact me off the list please I'm interested in what prop you
are using on your O200?
Gavin
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Isn't it amazing that after all this time planning on putting a Subaru EJ22 in
my KR2S I've just found a Continental O200 to use.
Should be about 50 or 60 pounds lighter too and direct drive !!
Now I've just got to rebuild it.
Gavin
Look out LKarry I'm coming to get you
---
Out
If you really want dry air the best and cheapest way to do it is to install
a heat exchanger between the tank and the water drier in the compressed air
line.
I used an old car air-conditioning condenser with about 3/8" lines in and
out of it, you'll be surprised how much better the drier works usin
This is the second time I've sent this as well!!1
> If you really want dry air the best and cheapest way to do it is to
install
> a heat exchanger between the tank and the water drier in the compressed
air
> line.
> I used an old car air-conditioning condenser with about 3/8" lines in and
>
Test only
Gav
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