Rules of thumb work fine for small deviations from the norm. You're going
from somewhere around 40 teeth to 72. A rule of thumb could lead to an
expensive mistake.
Search on "chain length calculator" and you should find any number of
resources to predict the number of links you'll need very accu
Also the Enertia from Brammo
http://www.brammo.com/
On Wed, Jul 23, 2008 at 6:41 AM, Shawn Waggoner (FLEAA) <
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Patterson Cycles in Jupiter. (www.pattersoncycles.com)
>
> Shawn
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behal
This brings up a question I've had regarding dual-Etek EMs. (Keep in mind
I'm an electrical dolt, so don't be afraid to set me straight if I need
it.) I'm guessing here, but I think vertical bumps aren't likely to loosen
a key.
My understanding is that PM motors want to run at one speed and only
I think if you look closely you'll see a sport bike transmission is so
tightly packaged you won't have room to fit covers and seals to close it
up. Not to mention carving away the engine side of the cases and mounting
the resulting metal potato.
How about a completely different approach - why not
Hi Steve,
First thing that jumps out is, did you check to make sure the R65 output
spline mates with your /7(?) driveshaft? Just checking.
As for shifting clutchless, it's a different game than with cars.
Motorcycle transmissions have no synchronizers. They use dog clutches,
basically large mat
On Jan 4, 2008 10:20 AM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks for the offer Andrew - looks like a good candidate. However I
> just found out about a possible donor in my area; a BMW; which is what I
> really hoped to get. Yeah, I know, I won't be able to change gearing
> easily, but I want to
I haven't been following the sprag clutch (freewheel) discussion, but
I thought I'd mention a company I came across years ago. They make a
one-way clutch that carries an astounding amount of torque for its
size. A quick look at their website suggests they concentrate on
replacements for specific
On 8/1/07, damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I understand that it is a build from scratch, but the principle is still the
> same, although at times you have to be quick on your feet. I'm not exactly
> saying make stuff up, I am saying speak in the terms they are used to. So
> instead of sa
On 7/29/07, Andrew Wowk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Chris,
> Do you know any details on how to do this?
No. I know it's done regularly on wound field armatures, both on the
windings and the commutator, to keep things from flying apart at high
rpm. I see no reason it couldn't serve the same func
On 7/28/07, dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> what is banding? i've 'upgraded' my motors with an aluminum screen around
> them is that what you mean?
No, what I'm suggesting (speculatively, since I've never seen inside
one of these motors, never mind used one), is that you wrap a band o
On 7/28/07, dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> i'm not sure on the technical terms but i think they are called the
> communicator the little metal blades spinning on the edges near the housing.
> a few of those came off and jammed there is a picture on my blog [Entry for
> June 4, 2007] n
On 7/18/07, Jeff Blamey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mechanical connections, such as twisting, clamping or crimping then soldering
is SOP for electrical connections that stand the test of time.
Just to make sure we're clear on a subtle-but-critical point, you're
right - soldering components to a
On 7/18/07, Jeff Blamey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Solder melts in the 500F range as I recall, the tips of the motor could be
quite a bit different temperature than the outer case or the area where the
temp gage can get to.
Typical lead-tin solder melts at 360F. The point though, is that yo
On 7/17/07, damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I've got no ideas about your DC to DC, but this is why I always recommend
the 6.7 inch series wound motors over Eteks. It's not that they can't do
the job, but they are too easy to fry. Too many amps either undoes all the
solder or demagnatizes
On 7/7/07, Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Thank you. I get s frustrated with people saying that a bike
should have a low CG. At the recent Ann Arbor Green Fair I mentioned
to a guy that when I put the new Yellow Tops in my bike they had to
go in a little lower than the old Hawkers and I fe
On 6/23/07, Andrew in Ann Arbor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
For a bike I think you'd do better with a twist grip that would let you
ramp up the regen by twisting further away from you just as you ramp up
the acceleration by twisting the throttle towards you.
So the twist grip would have an "off"
On 8/15/06, Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I have an AC4-4002 6.7 Inch motor from a Tropica that I'm putting in
my new bike (see the photo album on the site for construction pix)
and it's time to choose gearing.
Does anyone know how many RPM these can safely take at 72v?
Hi Mike,
I believe
On 2/14/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> One was my lowest voltage battery that appears at one time to have had a
> reversed cell (mostly speculation on my part I admit). I believe that this
> battery is not just weak, but seriously in trouble. I believe that its
> future is the
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