I've got an email off to Steve at Unwired wondering if he can shed any
light on the price break.
Rusty didn't even give me his special one-day rate, Kaleb, so I was
stuck with the full price of $695.
joe
Finally got the Unwired kit to replace the servo & amp installed &
functioning in my '80 300D. Actually I spent a good part of last
weekend on it. Nothing inherently very difficult about the
installation but getting the kinks out turned into quite a marathon.
Vacuum issues were as expected the m
"That always seems to be a touchy point. Did they allow for a rental
while repairs are made?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am"
_
Took weeks to squeeze a clear acceptance of liability out of 'em.
Didn't feel it was wise to ask until then, and of course after they
made a lowball off
"So, would you consider the wreck a blessing in disguise not counting
any aches and pains? It'll look sweet with the upgraded parts."
Judgment reserved for the moment, but I'm shall we say guardedly
optomistic. ;) I'm not however feeling so grateful to Farmers that
I'm much in
Should have it back w/i a week, or hopefully 2 at most, Johnny B.,
complete with a facelift and front end makeover to late production.
At most I expect to be out the cost of a pair of late Hella euro
lenses purchased from Speed and the spare euro headlight housing I
already had on the shelf to con
Got a couple of welcome checks in the mail today, the first to cover
the bulk of the cost of repairs to the wagon, with perhaps a bit more
to come for incidentals not originally included in the estimate. It
went to the paint shop earlier this week and it looks as though I'll
have it back next week
I'm wondering if you maybe didn't just overcharge with duracool,
Kaleb. IIRC, quantities & charge pressure are supposed to be
considerably lower with HC replacements.
joe
Few months ago I was experiencing the same thing in my '87 wagon.
Managed to ignore it a bit too long & one day I got a call from my
wife's cell. It had thrown the belt & had to be towed home. Turned
out that the alternator pulley was loose; nut had backed out ~1/16"
which was enough. I wound u
Only thing I see that looks remotely plausible, Casey, is 201 998 17
78, except the parts bible lists 5 ea for each rear door, total 10.
Attached & stripped fr list copy is a screenshot that should show it
all - if you can figure it out.
My karma's all warm & fuzzy now.
joe
-- next p
Actually, Loren, it was the 'dood from California's' sales records
that provided me with 2 of the comp's my appraisal was based on. He's
also doing the repairs, including an upgrade to the late production
hood/grill & headlights. I'm just now getting off an email to Speed
to see if I can pick
Finally! Just heard from the Farmers agent from up in the Redding
area. She'd just gotten back from the body shop and has authorized
repairs totalling a tad over $7200, supplements to follow. Anybody
think of anything else I should be asking for beyond direct expenses
and compensation for loss o
Anybody else notice that Rusty's taken to repeating himself -
repeatedly? Or is it just me? Whatever, sure looks like one of us is
coming down with something for which there's no cure. ;(
joe
Don't know about reasonable, Mark, but from everything I've heard
you'll have a hard time beating Pacific Fuel Injection for good.
They're in SSF, CA, and rebuild units shipped from all over. Chances
are good they can supply you with an exchange unit from the shelf if
you're rushed. Think they'r
I assume you're referring to your '91 124, Larry. Easy way to align
the pad prior to gluing is to cut a piece of approx nominal 1x2" to
36" long, and cut both ends to a blunt chisel shape. This will allow
you to wedge the pad front to back along the centerline of the hood
and get it properly pos
Didn't occur to me that you might have the Unwired Tools retro kit,
Rusty. If you do, I'm definitely interested. If not, why don't you
give them a holler & see if you can get hooked up. They do sell to
the public but if you can get them for a better price, I sure don't
have any problem with you
Fluff city, Craig. There are some knowledgeable folk over there but
it strikes me as mainly a lonely hearts club. It's all good, though;
there've gotta be worse ways to wile away the hours.
joe
All's just peachy, Johnny B. Seems I remember your presence being
missed for a while before I went futilely foraging for greener
pastures. Glad you're back as well.
As for you, Kaleb, what can I say.. Laissez les bon temps rouler &
keep up the good work! :)
joe
Oh John, you're giving me a headache. ;(
Much as I'd like to play the guinea pig for such a laudable project,
my need is fairly immediate, and my time is limited. While the cost
of the Unwired kit is a little hard to swallow, it looks as though I
could have it in hand w/i a few days of ordering
I just grab the pulley with it in the same place the proper tool would
be located, Harry. Tightened down as much as I can get it over the
shop rag layers and torqued on lightly sideways it provides a near
perfect counterhold.
joe
While the wagon's being dealt with we've had to fall back on the '80
300D as a backup. It's doing fine except the servo's gone belly up
again and after wasting way too much effort in trying to revive it I'm
really tired of dealing with that particular Rube Goldberg device; so
I'm thinking of inves
R/E's been an education in what constitutes a seriously high signal to
noise ratio.
Recent history:
My '87 TD got whacked back in mid Feb when a genius ripped a u-turn
from the curb in the middle of a block right into my path. After much
circumlocution from his insurance company including a lowba
In place of the proper tool, I use a small pipe wrench with several
layers of shop towel to protect the pulley & belt. Works just fine.
The stubby socket it a must, though.
joe (yeah, I'm back)
Malfunctioning relay when hot? Maybe wouldn't show up unless the engine's
cooled down enough that it has to struggle a bit w/o glow... Longshot for
sure, but it wouldn't hurt to plug in a spare relay just for yucks.
j
On 10/13/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My 1987 300D h
Just checking the epc to figure out what springs and pads I'll need to
order to accomodate the extra weight I'll be carrying when I install
the factory hitch that I've got coming from Germany. I was curious to
see that there's a small points surcharge for vehicles with rear
space heating which ap
A 5 gal plastic pail works just fine *if* you've got either a variable
speed vacuum or a bleed port in the vacuum hose with which to regulate
suction.
joe
Been waiting to see if anyone had anything really constructive to
offer. There's not a huge fund of expertise on late model high tech
gassers on this list so far as I know. I think if you're planning to
own & maintain this formidible beast for any period of time you'd be
well advised to find your
On 8/21/05, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Pardon my ignorance but what is WIS?
It's what the dealer techs resort to when they're in over their heads.
I've lost track of the link, but you can buy time online from MB for
viewing & downloading purposes. There're I have no clue how many
Nope, Marshall, mine just shows 30Nm, no range. 40 Nm sounds like a
pretty good compromise to me as well. Thx again.
joe
On 8/21/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe Knight wrote:
> > Thx, Marshall. My TDM is a Dec, '89 issue for 124,126 201 &129.
&
Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe Knight wrote:
> > When was inclined injection introduced & into what models? Just found
> > a reference in the TDM that seems to indicate that for inclined
> > injection proper torque for injectors into the precham
When was inclined injection introduced & into what models? Just found
a reference in the TDM that seems to indicate that for inclined
injection proper torque for injectors into the prechambers is only
30Nm as opposed to 70-80 for vertical. Trying to confirm that but
haven't yet found a reference
What version of the WIS do you have, Omar? I was able to get G.07.07
to run ok on XP Pro but I don't think I'm alone in having difficulties
getting it to play nice w/ EPC v.11.4.3 - something to do with the
blasted Program Manager I expect.. Had to uninstall that version of
WIS to restore functio
unter anything of potential value I just forward it to my personal
archive. Then at least I can winnow the chaff & can't fault anyone
else for my own lack of filing skills. ;-/
joe
On 8/21/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe Knight wrote:
> > And I
And I thought this thread had something to do with the chain crimping
tool. Silly me!
I expect you know the epc doesn't speak Bosch, Constantine, but
plugging blower p/n into a search it indicates that 126 820 05 42 is
common to 126.024/025/032/033/035/037/039/043/044/045/120/125/134/135.
Looks like that's virtually all 126 that were officially imported
into the NA mkt. Don't see
Sounds like a pretty elegant solution to locking the crank, Robert.
How'd you go about torquing the M18? I'm guessing you stood on the
longest cheater you could fit into the engine compartment. Bummer
about the shutoff, but at least you made some progress.
joe
It's cool if you're running XP Pro or 2K. Worldwide options w/
datacards. No pricing. Liked the Blue pages in the old Applications
index better than the Shop Materials listings in the new one is about
all. It's fully searchable for p/n to model which is real nice.
Installation's a bit of a PIT
Unless of course your pump is positioned such that removal of the ALDA
isn't possible w/o also removing the intake. Dunno if that's even
potentially an issue w/ the 2.5. I can attest to that possibility so
far as the 603.96x is concerned.
joe
On 8/20/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
>
Odo not turning some of the time would indicate *lower* than actual
mileage anyway.
joe
I went thru that when I broke the plastic vacuum connection on my
wagon's shutoff while trying to manuver the ALDA out of the way so I
could add a shim, Robert (think I let a wrench slip). :( IIRC, you
just turn the lever ccw to release, but you should probably wait for
confirmation from someone
That stop is part of the switch assembly isn't it? If so, replacing
the cylinder/tumbler wouldn't do much good. Hadn't considered that
possibility, Mitch.
joe
The nozzles are the part of the injector that is probably most subject
to degradation although some will argue that nozzle wear isn't really
much of an issue under normal conditions. I'm not at all sure that
even Bosch rebuilt injectors routinely have the nozzles replaced. If
you're intent on *ne
What happens when the key decides to lock up completely? I'd replace
the thing anyway; you can always leave the d/b switch in to satisfy
the yearnings of the rugrats.
joe
On 8/20/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The ignition switch in the 240D that my kids drive does not turn to
> the sta
Maybe he's pullin' our collective chain. ;)
joe
On 8/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well I have never heard anything back about it anyways, so there is no
> telling what the deal is.
Yep. Richard's been uncharacteristically silent since he offered that thing up.
joe
On 8/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well I have never heard anything back about it anyways, so there is no
> telling what the deal is.
Well BT, WRONG to you too! I believe I can document my contention
should the need arise. Of course Richard can sell the tool to
whomever he damn well pleases if he hasn't already done so.
On 8/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> BT, WRONG
>
&
I got in well ahead of you Kleb, offlist. Why don't you just keep
practicing your hammer technique.
joe
On 8/18/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I actually asked about it first so I have first dibs on it.
Sounds like whoever's keying those things is overdue for a refresher
course. He must be doing something wrong. Wonder if keying is done
at a single NA facility..
joe
...
>
> http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2334
Nothing in the brake section of the chassis manual? That's a shocker!
Looks like the DIN# for those bolts (6?) is 914020 006013.
joe
> 1). Is there anything unusual or unobvious about putting it back on or
> rebuilding it? It looks like it ought to be simple, but there's nothing in
> the manual
> Hey, maybe we should have an award for dolt comment of the week. I think
> I've qualified twice recently.
Ahhh! The exquisite Toejam Souffle, fallen of course, and well aged
in transit. Despite the intense competition, I confidently await the
arrival of my first installment.
joe
Putting coupe seats into a sedan sounds to me a very different kettle
of fish that doing the opposite; the latter doesn't strike me as a
very sound approach. New springs & pads would be nice, but rather
pricey I suspect. But I'd agree that rebuilding might be a viable
option. If Kevin's got a sh
Your search might be long and more than a little frustrating, Kevin.
AFAICT, that seat bottom frame was only used in the 123 CE & CD. I
think different pads were used for leather & tex as well. Best bet
will be to find good donor passenger seat(s), but I suspect you'll
need long tentacles and a
I bought some little tool from this guy a yr or so ago. As I remember
he did deliver pretty much as advertised. Isn't this one of the guys
that was/is offering the Klann knockoff spring compressor?
joe
Nitske lists the 560 specs, both euro & US.
Euro: 300 hp (DIN); 455 Nm; 10:1 compression; 7.2sec 0-100 km/hr
US:238 hp (SAE); 287 ft/lb (389 Nm); 9:1 compression; 8.0sec 0-60mph
500:
Euro: 240 hp (DIN); 296 ft/[EMAIL PROTECTED]; 8.8:1 compression
US:184 hp (SAE); 247 ft/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Kind of like running on natural gas. You can do pretty well if you
can fill up without having to pay for the electricity to compress the
stuff into your tank.
joe
Sounds like you're missing the lic plate mounting bracket, 123 810 00
14. Attaches to the underside of the bumper w/ 2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4
washers. Oughta be an easy find if there's a breaker close by.
joe
http://cgi.ebay.de/W124-el-Heckrollo-KOMPLETT-Mercedes-Benz_W0QQitemZ4567977616QQcategoryZ61509QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Might be a nice complement to that ride. Electric shade for the rear window.
joe
On 8/14/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/eba
Don't know, Constantine. I was just speculating as a result of your
having received the wrong motor first time around. Just did a quick
check and found a vehicle parts finder at:
http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/PartFinder/partfinder.asp
Don't see any reference to blower motors though. The part
Good to know, Constantine. Sounds like all's well; presumably the
correct replacement is either in hand or on its way. Wonder how long
before another SDL owner encounters a similar predicament. Hopefully
not before the good folks at Bosch have corrected what appears to be
an error in their catal
The switch to turbo happened midyear '81 for the TD. An '81 TD might
be of either persuasion.
joe
> Sunil Hari wrote:
> > Did MB do non-turbo 300Ds after 1982? I thought all 300Ds were turbo
> > from 82-85?/
If I were feelin' tempted to try the sleeve repair, think I'd cut a
longer end piece out of a donor & then cut the bar end back some to
allow for a longer sleeve.
joe
Just another reason to rejoice in 124World. Even looks like I could
pull the thing (5 min?) & keep drivin' w/o muvh of a care while I
wait for the replacement. Lookin' at my 123 & the epc, I'm inclined
to agree with the naysayers about doing this w/ a 123 or 126.
joe
On 8/12/05, Gary Thompson
Blower motor isn't listed separate from the fan in the epc,
Constantine, and there's no indication the part has been upgraded
since production began. Guess you sourced your new one outside the
dealer network.
joe
On 8/9/05, Constantine N. Polites <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just received a ne
Here's a pic of my adaptors.
j
On 8/11/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Think we're talking apples & oranges here... adapters to connect R-12
> hoses to an R-134a system won't help me. The female threaded fitting
> on the R-134a hoses looks the same, but it is larger than on R-12
> hoses.
So, humor me will ya? The shunt being referred to is across the leads
to the evaporator temp sensor, B10/6, located under the r/s of the
steering column? Am I sort of in the ballpark? And Spud, the
resistors are in parallel, correctimundo?
joe
I got a set of adaptors for my R12 gauges/hoses. Think I even used
'em once to confirm that there was no refrigerant in the albatross.
Don't remember offhand where I got them (online, I'm sure) but I think
I got them in the same order with a MasterCool side can tap. They're
quick connect to the
IIRC, there was a thread on the subject over on Rusty's list, or maybe
mercedesshop a few months back. Or maybe it was dieseltech. Somebody
was running up in the 170bar range and planning to go further in an
attempt to get better atomization & more efficient combustion. I
think Spud was involve
Mightn't the sleeves provide a surface for the edge of the ring
compressor to bear against? Doubt I'd want to go to all that trouble
and not replace the head gasket anyway; call it 'paranoia'. ;)
joe
On 8/10/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
>
> I would doubt if Mercedes ma
Guess I can go to bed counting my blessings. I'm afraid to look up
the cost of new; hope you find a good used one cheap!
joe
On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> well guys...we found a fried circuit board for the seat computer under the
> seat...arg!...gimmie a break!, this thing is m
t* to be suspect. Looks like a better
candidate than was the albatross though. :(
Flame suit on.
joe
On 8/9/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:23:41 -0700 Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > It does look very nice, but t
This is maybe a bit premature, but I think I've just acquired a new
Oris hitch that should be way better suited to installation on my
wagon than the one I've already got. It'll probably be a couple of
months before I actually have the thing in hand and am able to confirm
this, but I'd like to anti
Might be prudent to check the etm to see if the seat memory module
might complicate the reliability of any results you'd get from the
wiring at the switch, Jay, if the 126 has seat memory. The motor' may
well be accessible thru the seat back; the memory module and motor
connectors are buried a bit
For the kind of use that's being contemplated I wouldn't touch this
one w/o a very thorough PPI, looking very carefully for any signs of
corrosion or any electrical gremlins. It does look very nice, but the
engine compartment pics do evidence some sign of what I take to be
road salt related pittin
With a fairly short torque wrench and by removing the windshield
washer reservoir it is quite possible to do this procedure w/o
removing the intake. btdt.
joe
On 8/9/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
> not lb-ft... make
You might be in luck, sort of. Looks like the seat back motor & the
headrest motor might be accessible by removing the panelling on the
back of the seat which you should be able to do in situ. Don't know
how similar the 126 seat is to my 124, but mine looked like somebody
had kludzed in a replace
What yr & model? I'll see if I can pull it up on the epc.
joe
On 8/9/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> thanx,...where is the seat back motor?
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworl
If the motor's working you should be able to use jumpers direct to run
it, hot to one, ground to the other, reversing the connections to run
the other way. I did this a lot while rebuilding the driver's seat in
my wagon. There's a good chance it's a wiring problem resulting from
all the flexing a
The odometer is purely mechanical in your car, Dan. No electrics
involved, except for lighting. That's not to say it mightn't have
malfunctioned at some point. Without very complete service records
and a pretty good knowledge of the vehicle's history I don't know how
you'd go about ascertaining
Not to dispute anything Marshall has said, but I did replace the seals
& o-rings on the albatross's pump when a couple of them started
leaking after it'd been sitting idle for 6-8 weeks. Replacement did
cure that problem. Per Marshall's suggestion, I would rule out
everything else first, but if y
I'm just the messenger here, Chuck; wanted to make sure that I had
saved it somewhere.
Thank Spud and those who provided him guidance.
joe
On 8/8/05, Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Priceless!
But who's gonna know if you only give the 'appearance' of having
converted to 134a by just and only adding the required fittings. Not
that I would advocate this of course, or ever even consider doing it
myself. :)
j
On 8/8/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe,
>
> That's a good questio
-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Aug 8, 2005 2:05 PM
Subject: FW: [DIESEL] W123 center vent actuator R&R instructions
To: Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECT
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave M.
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 2:44 PM
To: Mercedes diesel list; Mercedes email list; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Dave M.; Richard Sexton (mechanic role)
Subject: [DIESEL] W123 center vent actuator R&R
I've been under the impression that where otherwise legal you can meet
the EPA standard by first converting an R-12 system to 134a and then
convert to HC. In other words & for practical purposes, empty the
system, install 134 fittings, et voila. Not so? I'm sure I've heard
that argued & don't se
Sounds like in another 8-10 yrs Spud'll be drivin' a wagon. ;)
On 8/8/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
>
> The E55 AMG wagon article was quite entertaining. Same drive train as the
> E55 AMG sedan, but better performance on all counts due to superior
> front/rear weight bi
Manual specifies 10% at 80C for 10 minutes, repeating as needed for
badly calcified systems. I think this would translate to ~ a kilo,
more or less, presumably proportionately longer for a weaker soln.
joe
On 8/8/05, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How much citric acid do I need to flu
I've not tried to actually download anything from Tarek's site, but
just reviewed an email of his on the subject. For reason's about
which I'm completely clueless he doesn't allow passive mode transfers.
If you're using SmartFTP, you could try switching to active mode:
Tools > Settings > Connect
Using SmartFTP, I copied the link from Marshall's post and pasted it
into the address bar in the upper left corner of the window, paying no
mind that it doesn't appear there as identical to the original link.
There are pretty obvious places to enter the user name & password.
Click the 'connect' b
If there's a way to access the manuals with a web browser, I missed it
too. Probably best to download an ftp client like SmartFTP, CuteFTP,
or any one of no doubt dozens of others, and use it to access the
goodies. As I said previously, I had no problem whatsoever finding
them using SmartFTP. It
Goodo, Marshall. First time I've accessed it; got right in using the
default settings for SmartFTP. Looks like most of the goodies are
there. Just for the sake of redundancy somebody might want to upload
the more current price list from Spud's website.
Kudos, Tarek!
joe
IIRC, an open disconnected line to the modulator should lead to hard
positive shifts. If you try that and the result is different I'd
guess your tranny problems are more serious. Also IIRC, your '81 has
an independent (cable?) control that regulates shift timing. Maybe
somone can provide a curre
Thx, Marshall. Good to know, and good to have an updated contact addy. :)
joe
On 8/7/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
> Randy Steele <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> finally obtained a replacement for me.
I seem to remember that Randy had gone out of business, Marshall. Is
that not true?
joe
The 107 manual is mia from http://mb.braingears.com/, but so far as I
know there are still a couple of ftp sites from which they can be
snagged...? Anyone?
joe
On 8/6/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Joe Knight...thanks for the link to the manuals...where do i find them for
>
Kaleb'll take it off your hands if you're w/i hauling distance.
SpamPal, http://www.spampal.org/, works to keep most of the garbage
out of my POP inbox even though I haven't updated in a while. Not
perfect but better than nothing.
joe
On 8/6/05, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've been getting spam lately from [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know I can't bl
You guys are going to spend all weekend just figuring out what you
should be discussing. Here's a couple of pics that may help you sort
that out.
126120 front axle.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
126120 torsion.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
Never a bad idea to start with the fsm:
http://mb.braingears.com/.
Pertinent info should be in the chassis manual, section 72 on disk 2.
Maybe start w/ 72-185. Sorry, no help w/ the cerveza.
joe
On 8/6/05, Don & Teresa Merriman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hola amigos
> I need to change the dri
Looking at the manual I don't find a direct indication of total
capacity, but there are a few tidbits that might give you a clue.
Total refrigerant capacity is 1.2kg of R-12. Using the dipstick, self
made & marked 22,25&28mm from the end, level in the compressor should
fall somewhere between the
Have to report my first instance in several months use of an actual
spam finding its way into my inbox. Sure hope this is an isolated
event. :(
joe
One question, Dan. I noticed that you stated that the motor should
only be run momentarily when jumpered. Why is this? During my little
stint in purgatory diagnosing and repairing a misbehaving gear
assembly -details in the text file on the website- I had to put the
thing thru its paces pretty
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