> G wrote:
> For future use:
>
> I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt
> that "will likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with
> a flat face punch the size of the screw head, with a few blows
> with at least a 1 lb hammer.
I don't know about the 126 chassis,
VSR drills have a screw in the centerline of the chuck to keep it from
unscrewing, unless it is a jacobs taper chuck
Craig via Mercedes wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:34:30 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
wrote:
The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only
go in-out, so
.com
> Cc: g2ma...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 126 striker plate screw
>
>
> For future use:
>
> I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt that "will
> likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with a flat face punch the
> size
] '87 126 striker plate screw
For future use:
I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt that "will
likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with a flat face punch the
size of the screw head, with a few blows with at least a 1 lb hammer.
This tends to break loos
For future use:
I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt that "will
likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with a flat face punch the
size of the screw head, with a few blows with at least a 1 lb hammer.
This tends to break loose the rust bond at the thread level
On Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:34:30 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
wrote:
> The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only
> go in-out, so don't care which way the drill is turning.
But if the chuck is thread-on, you might unscrew it from the drill's
drive. I have had that happen.
In theory, I guess but I have had trouble keeping chucks tight when
running a drill in reverse.
RB
On 14/08/2018 12:34 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only go
in-out, so don't care which way the drill is turning.
On Tue, Aug
Gin?
On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 1:34 PM OK Don via Mercedes
wrote:
> The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only go
> in-out, so don't care which way the drill is turning.
>
> On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
The rotational forces are applied to the teeth of the chuck. They only go
in-out, so don't care which way the drill is turning.
On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> How do you keep the chuck tight when drilling backwards?
>
> RB
>
>
>
>
How do you keep the chuck tight when drilling backwards?
RB
On 14/08/2018 10:32 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
and, when you are buying the cobalt drills, buy left hand twist
drills. If they stick, they tend to unscrew the broken bolt, rather
than tighten it.
Greg Fiorentino via
and, when you are buying the cobalt drills, buy left hand twist
drills. If they stick, they tend to unscrew the broken bolt, rather
than tighten it.
Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:
Yes, start with a smaller bit and work up. Using a larger extractor will help
avoid breakage. A cheap
> Dan--- wrote:
> The plate is captured behind the striker and will not fall into
> the void.
That is how it is supposed to work. I try to always prove it is
captured before I trust it 'cause I have encountered some that
were no longer retained. Not on a Mercedes, but I'm still paranoid.
That plate is also loose like that to allow
you to adjust the striker plate for correct
contact before tightening the screws all the way.
Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:
The plate is captured behind the striker and will not fall into the void. With
all the screws out you might have to use a
The plate is captured behind the striker and will not fall into the void. With
all the screws out you might have to use a small stick or some other means to
get the holes lined up when you go to reinstall, but the threaded plate won’t
go anywhere. Once you get one screw started the rest will
That is a great idea, I will try getting the screw out by drilling it. I have
another concern; there appears to be a plate behind the striker plate that the
actual striker screw, screws through and it looks like it is behind the frame
metal. Is this the case? If so, how do I manage to take
I've done that three times. Maybe I just was
lucky but each time the threaded part of the
screw just came out with my fingers turning it.
Use a drill bit just larger then the threaded
part of the screw. Stop when the head falls
off. Take the plate off and unscrew the stub
by hand.
The
I always meant to order some cobalt left hand twist bits from the Snap-On
truck.
Back when I had weekly truck visits, they were in the catalog but not on the
truck.
It's such a happy moment when your bit jams and the bolt spins out of the hole
by accident.
Oops, I just checked, now those
,'84TD
via Mercedes
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 11:24 AM
To: Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
Cc: Ralph,'84TD
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 126 striker plate screw
Thanks, is it best to start with a smaller bit and work up? I have a
different bolt extractor that I could try using, if necessary.
Ralph
AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Ralph,'84TD
Subject: [MBZ] '87 126 striker plate screw
Tried getting a stripped screw out of the rear door striker plate. Used a new
bolt/screw extractor, it broke off in the screw. What type of drill bit is
needed to continue this job? Any other options
] On Behalf Of Ralph,'84TD
via Mercedes
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2018 5:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Ralph,'84TD
Subject: [MBZ] '87 126 striker plate screw
Tried getting a stripped screw out of the rear door striker plate. Used a new
bolt/screw extractor, it broke off in the screw. What type
Tried getting a stripped screw out of the rear door striker plate. Used a new
bolt/screw extractor, it broke off in the screw. What type of drill bit is
needed to continue this job? Any other options?? Thanks.
Ralph '87, 300SDL '84, 300 CD
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