Check with your source in Turkey. You can probably buy them off the shelf
there or in Argentina or something.
On Sat, Mar 16, 2019, 6:52 AM Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> The old mechanical injection systems from Bosch were very very similar to
> the diesel
Congrats! Glad it worked out.
A running car is better than a garage queen!
Good work!
Be aware! When judging concours, I found that the underside reveals
much. Like the gullwing with a really cruddy underside, wrong exhaust
clamps, overspray, etc. I deducted all the points I could,
I guess. I didn’t bother trying to verify the specs. The guy Jaime knew that
has done this is a well known and trusted vintage Mercedes guy, so that was
good enough for me.
-D
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 11:48 AM, Dimitri wrote:
>
> Wow that’s excellent! So this pump happens to have the similar
Well done. That little fuel pump job- up would have completely discourage 67%
of all Mercedes owners.
Bob R
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 8:48 AM, Dimitri via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Wow that’s excellent! So this pump happens to have the similar output volume
> and pressure as
Wow that’s excellent! So this pump happens to have the similar output volume
and pressure as original?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 10:14 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Just finished up my fuel pump replacement. Here’s the deal:
>
> Jaime was kind enough to refer me
Just finished up my fuel pump replacement. Here’s the deal:
Jaime was kind enough to refer me to a text he had seen from Pieter Van Rossum,
a W113 guy, where he had replaced the stock “tall” fuel pump with a generic
Carter pump.
I got a Carter pump the same day from the Island of Large Wimmen
The old mechanical injection systems from Bosch were very very similar to the
diesel injection systems, just much lower delivery pressure as they inject into
the intake rather than the combustion chamber in the MB versions -- the
aircraft and original 300 Gullwing inject through the side of the
Thanks, I always love a challenge so finding a solution intrigues me. BTW,
nice work on the headliner. Well done.
On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:41 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Don’t burn any calories on this just yet. I’ve got something on the burner
> right now that
Don’t burn any calories on this just yet. I’ve got something on the burner
right now that will probably resolve the situation for far less than the stock
pump option. I’ve for to do some things tomorrow to work out details, then I’ll
know more.
Thanks!
-D
> On Mar 15, 2019, at 11:36 PM, G
Thanks !
Perfect to have spec in hand. Not a particularly high pressure supply
system, which should work to your advantage for a work around system with
staying power and standard replacement parts.
I will do a bit of digging and see what I can contribute. Next 3 days are
obligated, so it will
The MB "Technical Data Passenger Cars" has the following for the fuel pump:
Feed pressure (after fuel fine filter) - 0.8 -1.1 kg/cm2 (perhaps they meant
the fuel line filter?)
Feed final pressure (after overflow valve of injection pump) at least 1.3 kg/cm2
Feed capacity at least 3 liters/min
-D
For my own curiosity, what is the GPM and pressure spec for your Finnie at
the delivery point?
I confess to no experience with that era injection system. However, just
happen to still hold an FAA Repair Station license and Repairman
Certificates for numerous jet engine fuel systems, including
Mechanical. Two plunger pump.
-D
> On Mar 15, 2019, at 8:47 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Mechanical or D-Jet? D-Jet you can put a pressure relief/return line in to
> reduce the flow and pressure from any lower pressure FI pump and allow the
> regulator in the FI ring to
Mechanical or D-Jet? D-Jet you can put a pressure relief/return line in to
reduce the flow and pressure from any lower pressure FI pump and allow the
regulator in the FI ring to do it's job. There are retrofits available (or
there were when I was looking) for the D-Jet cars. One of the
Fortunately I have specs and it already has a regulator in the circuit. More to
come on this tomorrow.
-D
> On Mar 15, 2019, at 7:08 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Suggestion. Look up the GPM flow rate and Required Pressure for the Finnie.
> Purchase a Faucet pump that is at or above
You obviously know little about the fuel injections systems on the 1960s era
cars.
Try Googling “0010915201 mercedes” and let me know what you find.
Pump has been NLA for years, only thing in the aftermarket is rebuilds. Bud’s
Benz makes some sort of weird retrofit with no warranty, which
Suggestion. Look up the GPM flow rate and Required Pressure for the Finnie.
Purchase a Faucet pump that is at or above the spec.. Also purchase a fuel
pressure regulator, which will meter fuel at the spec pressure, Add a fuel
pressure gage in the supply line to verify your setting adjustment, Once
With the plethora of ruined finnies on the market you ought be able to get
several used fuel pumps for a song. Worth a try.
On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 1:42 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> It’s a piece of metal that’s riveted or welded to the pump housing. You
> have to
It’s a piece of metal that’s riveted or welded to the pump housing. You have to
understand we’re talking really, really small spaces here. Not only that, the
“short” pump has fuel circulating around the motor, so the case has to be
sealed or you will be leaking fuel. So no holes or fasteners
I agree. Can’t it be welded? What are the metals involved?
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 15, 2019, at 12:09 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes
wrote:
>> fuel, which would eventually cause the JB Weld to fail.
>
> Soldering/brazing/nuts/rivets? Seems like there ought to be a
> mechanical
> way to
> fuel, which would eventually cause the JB Weld to fail.
Soldering/brazing/nuts/rivets? Seems like there ought to be a mechanical
way to secure it. A spring is a spring, find something similar and put it in.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search
Pump is toast.
Popped the motor portion apart and found that one of the brush holders has
broken loose from its mounting plate and the brush spring was pretty much
chewed to nothing in the motor.
While I could possibly JB Weld the brush holder in place, I don’t see a way to
replace the spring
Spray some WD40 in there.
I don’t know why but seems like something to do
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Mar 15, 2019, at 8:39 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I’m not going to try and bodge something up unless I absolutely have to.
>
> I got the pump off the car and opened the
Awe, come on Dan. We all know that a really great story usually ends with
"and then everything burst into flames!"
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:40 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I’m not going to try and bodge something up unless I
I’m not going to try and bodge something up unless I absolutely have to.
I got the pump off the car and opened the housing. Impeller and pump portion
look just fine. Motor seems a little “notchy”, but that could be due to the
brushes riding against the commutator. Unfortunately, when I removed
You can sub a higher P/V pump and put a flow control/pressure relief
valve and return line under there with it.
Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 3/15/19 5:40 AM:
Only if it’s not rebuildable.
Amazing that this pump is so unique that no one has ever made or marketed a
reasonably priced
Or hang a pump/filter unit from a 210, 211 etc under there.
Craig via Mercedes wrote on 3/14/19 10:33 PM:
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 22:27:14 -0500 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
wrote:
Corroded connectors or a bad fuel pump relay will do the same thing.
Had this issue with the TE, bad rear fuel
Only if it’s not rebuildable.
Amazing that this pump is so unique that no one has ever made or marketed a
reasonably priced alternative. I saw that Bud’s Benz makes a knockoff, but they
want $700 for it. If you shop it hard you can find rebuilt Bosch pumps in that
price range.
And Craig -
And crazy expensive.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 14, 2019, at 11:27 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Corroded connectors or a bad fuel pump relay will do the same thing.
>
> Had this issue with the TE, bad rear fuel pump would cause stalling and
> starting issues. Replaced
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 22:27:14 -0500 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
wrote:
> Corroded connectors or a bad fuel pump relay will do the same thing.
>
> Had this issue with the TE, bad rear fuel pump would cause stalling and
> starting issues. Replaced it and all is well. Not really an option on
> a
Corroded connectors or a bad fuel pump relay will do the same thing.
Had this issue with the TE, bad rear fuel pump would cause stalling and
starting issues. Replaced it and all is well. Not really an option on a Finny
though, I'd guess the fuel pumps are getting a bit hard to find.
Absolutely - there is a silver lining!
It starts and stops intermittently, and is definitely not coming up to speed. I
could hear and feel this when I was under the car. This could be:
Galled impeller
Clogged supply line or screen
Bad bearing(s)
Bad brushes
There are plenty of sources for
Well the good news is that the headliner turned out great!
From my experience, those pumps can run and appear fine but not put out the
correct volume of fuel. They are supposed to put out so many cubic centimeters
per 15 seconds. I don’t know what the figures should be on your car.
Sent from
Went to the upholstery shop to pick up the finnie from getting its new
headliner. Turned out very, very nice and I was really excited to get it home
and begin the reassembly process.
Drive the 30 or so miles home. At a three way stop about two blocks from the
house the car dies. Hmm. With the
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