The 2.3 liter 4 cylinder that was used in the Pintos
and other models was also a favorite in Capris (not
the pants) as were the earlier 2.0 liter 4 cylinders
as well.
A pretty tough little engine.
Dan (former 1971 1/2 Ford Pinto Hatchback owner)
--- Kevin Kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A f
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Now this leads me to ask: is such a catastrophe always preceeded by telltale
noises (the creaking we're talking about)? If not, it seems that many
drivers who have not done proper maintenance, or do not know what
maintenance that has been done, may be seconds away from this wi
A few years ago, My dad and I had a '79 Mercury Bobcat AKA Ford Pinto (don't
laugh!). It was a fine original car that needed a few minor things, but the
2.3L 4 cyl engine ran very well with 131Kmi on it. It needed shocks, but I
had no idea about the bad ball joints until we jacked it up. The
No, it certainly isn't worth taking it to the hairy end. Lucky is one
thing, but stupid is quite another. It hasn't been driven for a while, and
won't be driven much other than to the shop.
Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
Now this leads me to ask: is such a catastrophe always preceded
by telltale noises (the creaking we're talking about)?
No. It wasn't in my case, nor, apparently, in the neighbors'.
I had been told, however, that I had a bad ball joint. Fool
that I was, I didn't do anything about it for ages.
Now this leads me to ask: is such a catastrophe always preceeded by telltale
noises (the creaking we're talking about)? If not, it seems that many
drivers who have not done proper maintenance, or do not know what
maintenance that has been done, may be seconds away from this with no
warning. Yet yo
How long can a rusty, squeaky ball joint last, and what happens in the
end?
A year or two, maybe. Then the wheel folds under the car.
Hopefully you aren't near any oncoming traffic, or ravines.
Happened to me, turning around in a barnyard instead of the night
before at 75 MPH on the freeway.
I don't really want to take the chance that such a catastrophic failure may
happen with the 300SD. Before it's driven anymore, I plan to at least jack
it up and check to see where the groaning noise is coming from. It doesn't
groan or creak when going over bumps, but I'm sure that it can be he
We drove an Opel Manta that way for about two years, when it finally
let go and dumped the front end on the ground. My wife was not happy.
I kept squirting grease in to stop the noise, but it did finally have
a catastrophic failure.
My 300SDL was squeaking when I turned the wheel after a bit of
dr
I second the question.
The answer will give me something to think about as I cruise down the
freeway on my 1500 mi. trip tomorrow or the next day.
brian
On 6/10/07, Kevin Kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Usually a noisy ball joint is making noise because it's shot -- grease
won't restore it.
Usually a noisy ball joint is making noise because it's shot -- grease
won't restore it.
How long can a rusty, squeaky ball joint last, and what happens in the end?
It sounds like the passenger's side lower ball joint on my W126 300sD is
really groaning whenever the wheel is turned, that squeak
Understood. As I said, we couldn't find any shop around here that seemed
competent to work on the vehicle.
Brian
Jim wrote:
Once they're creaky they're shot, usually full of rust, and
any greasing is to be a SHORT TERM proposition while you line up a\
proper replacement.
Unless you don't think
Yeah, that's what I thought was logical - why put a hole in a good
boot. But
I wondered if even boots that aren't torn could be dried up inside from
desert living?
You could snake the needle up along between the boot and the metal
it's supposed to clamp to.
The reason I'm pursuing this is that
Jim, where is your favorite place to buy Shoe Goo? I would like to
avoid
wandering around town and down aisles searching for it.
The hardware store next to my work suffices. I've also bought it
at places like Target.
-- Jim
You will have to do an alignment, good reason to do the whole shebang
at once.
Creaks and groans on bumps on a W123 can also be track rod bushings
going bad up on the firewall -- check those first before stabbing holes
in the grease boots.
Usually a noisy ball joint is making noise because i
Jim, where is your favorite place to buy Shoe Goo? I would like to avoid
wandering around town and down aisles searching for it.
Brian
Jim wrote:
And I use a dab of Shoe Goo for a plug.
-- Jim
Cool - I assumed in my inexperience that an alignment might have to be done
after chaning out suspension parts.
Brian
Zach wrote:
As far as suspesion work goes, the only difficult job on a W123 is the
lower ball joints, they are ridiculously difficult. The rest is
relatively easy, I just cha
FWIW, I have taken the creak out of old W123 joints by doing just this,
shooting a bunch of grease in with a needle... It only lasts a little
while and then you have to do it again.
As far as suspesion work goes, the only difficult job on a W123 is the
lower ball joints, they are ridiculously di
Yeah, that's what I thought was logical - why put a hole in a good boot. But
I wondered if even boots that aren't torn could be dried up inside from
desert living?
The reason I'm pursuing this is that I have loud creaking in the front end
and have not found a mechanic around here that likes to wo
I finally got around to attempting to grease the suspension on the 83
240D,
and after I poked the hole in the first fitting, I thought that maybe
this
is not something that is just done across the board, rather, just to
the
offending joints. So how bad an idea is it to go through and poke a
hol
I finally got around to attempting to grease the suspension on the 83 240D,
and after I poked the hole in the first fitting, I thought that maybe this
is not something that is just done across the board, rather, just to the
offending joints. So how bad an idea is it to go through and poke a hole i
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