Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.
That happens when the sensor in the engine plugs up with conventional
oil crud (changing M-1 will sometimes clean that out, but not always).
Sometimes they can be taken out and cleaned, but more
Yea, I guess I should switch back to m1 maybe.
Marshall Booth wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.
That happens when the sensor in the engine plugs up with conventional
oil crud (changing M-1 will sometimes clean that out,
mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.
Jim Cathey wrote:
thats better. So refresh my memory again in case I wasnt paying
attention. So you repaired one of these? What was it doing that
caused
it to need to be repaired?
Yes. The symptom is a dash light
mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.
Could be a number of other failure modes, starting with a bad sender.
-- Jim
Due to popular demand, I have photographed and annotated
the repaired board. Photograph:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.html
The annotations refer to the schematic:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.pdf
That is all.
-- Jim
Oh, and it's C2, the green rectangle in the corner,
that is at fault.
-- Jim
the repaired board. Photograph:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.html
Jeez. Make that:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.jpg
-- Jim
first one is a no go
Jim Cathey wrote:
Due to popular demand, I have photographed and annotated
the repaired board. Photograph:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.html
The annotations refer to the schematic:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.pdf
That is all.
--
thats better. So refresh my memory again in case I wasnt paying
attention. So you repaired one of these? What was it doing that caused
it to need to be repaired?
Jim Cathey wrote:
the repaired board. Photograph:
http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.html
Jeez. Make that:
thats better. So refresh my memory again in case I wasnt paying
attention. So you repaired one of these? What was it doing that
caused
it to need to be repaired?
Yes. The symptom is a dash light that reacts to the raw sensor
information, signaling low oil on left-hand (?) turns. The
Received a care package from Casey yesterday: his dead low-oil board.
Though the board got a little smashed in shipping (in a semi-padded
envelope), I expect a resoldering to cure it, if it hasn't been
destroyed in its travels. The capacitor that sets the oscillator
frequency to 256 Hz was very
Jim Cathey wrote:
Received a care package from Casey yesterday: his dead low-oil board.
Though the board got a little smashed in shipping (in a semi-padded
envelope), I expect a resoldering to cure it, if it hasn't been
destroyed in its travels. The capacitor that sets the oscillator
frequency
Casey,
Can you scan the board with a reference ruler and email it to me?
Andy
On 7/17/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Paging Mr Cathey. Mr Cathey, please come to the office for urgent
consultation!!!
I just de-soldered the ill-tempered oil circuit board from my '87
300TD. Do
you
Umm, what's a reference ruler? Remember, I'm sorta slow-witted, so type
carefully and keep the words simple for me.
On 7/17/06, Andrew Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Casey,
Can you scan the board with a reference ruler and email it to me?
Andy
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive
I just de-soldered the ill-tempered oil circuit board from my '87
300TD. Do
you still require one of these for your ongoing commitments to science
and
the public interest? If so, please send your mailing instructions,
(SSN and
bank account info to my Nigerian friend) asap!
Jim
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:05:09 -0700 Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Umm, what's a reference ruler? Remember, I'm sorta slow-witted, so type
carefully and keep the words simple for me.
It's a ruler that's visible along side the object of interest so one can
judge the size of the object.
Damn! I just knew it was gonna be something obvious like that...did I
mention the whole slow-witted thing already?
On 7/17/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's a ruler that's visible along side the object of interest so one can
judge the size of the object.
Casey
Olympia, WA
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:25:51 -0700 Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Damn! I just knew it was gonna be something obvious like that...did I
mention the whole slow-witted thing already?
On 7/17/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's a ruler that's visible along side the object
Not many people are fluent in andy... sometimes I make up my own terms.
On the bright side there are enough people out there well versed in similar
languages who translate.
Andy
On 7/18/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:25:51 -0700 Zeitgeist [EMAIL
Paging Mr Cathey. Mr Cathey, please come to the office for urgent
consultation!!!
I just de-soldered the ill-tempered oil circuit board from my '87 300TD. Do
you still require one of these for your ongoing commitments to science and
the public interest? If so, please send your mailing
The cluster I liberated from the U-Pull's 85 190E has a low-oil
board, but it uses discrete circuitry and a CA239 (LM239) quad
comparitor ID. Lots of components, and it looks like early
transistor radio construction with all the resistors on end.
Hand-stuffed, I'd guess. The later digi-board is
Jim Cathey wrote:
The cluster I liberated from the U-Pull's 85 190E has a low-oil
board, but it uses discrete circuitry and a CA239 (LM239) quad
comparitor ID. Lots of components, and it looks like early
transistor radio construction with all the resistors on end.
Hand-stuffed, I'd guess. The
At the U-Pull today there is a 190E, and a 76 300D. Unusual
in the 115 is that the dashboard is nearly uncracked, there's
only one starting at the speaker hole. The speaker grille is
not nearly as ratty as most I've seen. The dash is wood-paneled,
but most of that is not looking so hot.
--
What does the pin connection look? Would it be easier to put a PIC on a
different board in that location?
That'd be easiest as a sell-em-a-replacement item, but I think you
could easily deadbug a PIC onto the existing board for the ultimate
in low-cost repairs. The board has four stake pins
Jim,
What does the pin connection look? Would it be easier to put a PIC on a
different board in that location?
Andy
On 7/3/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well, nobody had a dead one to sacrifice at the altar of understanding,
so I'm putting that project away. (I _know_ at least
Jim, I have it!
PIC12F508 is 8 pin Dip 125C temp range :: $0.72
For Vss any of the follow would work:
1)Connect pin 8 to pin 2
2) to pin 5
3) to ground directly
4) the top of resistor 4 to ground would work also
GP4 reads the input
GP1 provides the output
4 mhz internal xtal
Use the 256
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006, Craig McCluskey wrote:
I really liked the 7900 series modular scopes. We had a 7904 back at UT
Austin that was very helpful with the kinds of signals we needed to see.
The image intensifying CRT enabled me to see 10 Hz signals (from our YAG
laser) at 5 ns/division with the
The trunk of the SDL has plenty of room for an engine in pieces --
What an offer! Unfortunately we're going to be in the SDL this trip,
though I might take you up on that offer, using my brother's place as
a staging area.
-- Jim
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do
The trunk of the SDL has plenty of room for an engine in pieces --
Poor little squatting thing would probably have a heart attack
carrying that much weight back there. Not to mention that my
wife vetoed my suggestion we take our week's road-trip in the
450 SL. She cited the lack of trunk
Yup - wife trumps all else. The SLC is nice when you need more
carrying space - I think of the back seat as an extended trunk. you
have to have a fuel cost be da#%ed attitude to take a 450 anything
on a road trip these days.
On 7/3/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The trunk of the SDL
Well, nobody had a dead one to sacrifice at the altar of understanding,
so I'm putting that project away. (I _know_ at least one or two have
been replaced out there, but I suppose the deaders were just thrown
away. Not something _I'd_ ever do!)
-- Jim
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board
Well, nobody had a dead one to sacrifice at the altar of understanding,
so I'm putting that project away. (I _know_ at least one or two have
been replaced out there, but I suppose the deaders were just thrown
away
Don't have any to sacrifice however next time your in town I'll let
you come
and play with a couple still in cars, if you need tension relief.
In fact we're going there tomorrow, but that sort of thing is _not_
the reason I'm going there. (And to Long Beach.) Thanks anyway!
(And it's easier
, July 03, 2006 7:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board
Don't have any to sacrifice however next time your in town I'll let
you come
and play with a couple still in cars, if you need tension relief.
In fact we're going there tomorrow, but that sort
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 10:40:12 -0700 Woodlandtaylors
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jim,
You should bring a small trailer and I could load it probably with
enough parts to build a 300D engine for a generator project --- you can
have them on the house.
Now if that doesn't get him drooling ... !
You should bring a small trailer and I could load it probably with
enough
parts to build a 300D engine for a generator project --- you can have
them
on the house.
What an offer! Unfortunately we're going to be in the SDL this trip,
though I might take you up on that offer, using my brother's
(MB content) I was able to use my basic (student) 301 to measure and
verify the output pulse from the distributor sensor on the 117.985.
On 6/27/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
archer wrote:
What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth? I
have one but
Have you tested the one in the parts wagon you have to see if it
behaves
similarly in the SDL or on the bench?
That instrument cluster is one of the _many_ parts that was
harvested off the wagon before I got it. I only have two
low-oil indicator lamps: one in the SDL and one in the 190D.
The
I made a schematic, see: http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.pdf
-- Jim
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:06:35 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
(Certain expensive and capable analog Tektronix oscilloscopes that are
dying like flies come to mind, for which there are _no_ replacement
chips.)
And which ones would those be?
Craig
I've been warned by the guy that repairs some of my instruments at work
(on-line TOC analyzers) that he is having trouble finding some of the
components, meaning I assume small scale integrated circuits. When the
last on someone has in stock is gone, that's it. Lots of things are
going fast,
Speaking of which, I'd better fire mine up again to keep those caps
'formed'. Does it really have IC's? It's a 310A.
Yes, it still works. Real radios glow in the dark!
On 6/26/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:06:35 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board
Speaking of which, I'd better fire mine up again to keep those caps
'formed'. Does it really have IC's? It's a 310A.
Yes, it still works. Real radios glow in the dark!
On 6/26/06, Craig
And which ones [Tek scopes-of-death] would those be?
2465, etc. (If I remember the number right.) We had them
at work once, along with many other models of various vintages,
and they were the ones you always reached for first. In fact,
the Bright Eyes 2467 was the big kahuna. Crank that
Jim Cathey wrote:
And which ones [Tek scopes-of-death] would those be?
2465, etc. (If I remember the number right.) We had them
at work once, along with many other models of various vintages,
and they were the ones you always reached for first. In fact,
the Bright Eyes 2467 was the
I have a 2213 in the closet, that I use on those rare occasions when I
need a 'scope these days. It's a nice piece of equipment; I hope it
doesn't die any time soon.
I have a 2336 that has already lost the HV once, and now has an
intermittent focus. Not a very robust model as it turns out.
It
What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?
Not too much, actually. They're so big, and so hot, and so
persnickety, and so low-performing. Hard to ship.
-- Jim
archer wrote:
What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth? I
have one but it's buried in the attic and I don't remember the name. I was
concerned about getting replacement tubes but a friend who sells tubes on
the internet said there would be no problem.
Give me the tube numbers and I'll see if I can find them. I have a LOT
of tube connections.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
rumor has it that Jim wrote:
Nobody has been able to fix one, but not much is
known about their construction.
The board has four pins on it that connect to the instrument
cluster. I assume that these are power, ground, input, and lamp
output. They are labeled KL15, KL31, GEBER, and AUSG.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Jim:
If the electrolytic is shorted or open (the available failure modes, so
to speak), it may cause the IC to turn the lamp on all the time
reguardless of the signal from the sensor.
Do check that the sensor isn't shorted, too -- they often get oil in
the float and
Do check that the sensor isn't shorted, too
So how about just building your own comparitor/timer rather than trying
to repair the unknown.
So far as I know, there's nothing wrong with mine. I just was in
a place to look at one, perhaps a good one. I was going to fire
it up on the bench and
rumor has it that Jim wrote:
Do check that the sensor isn't shorted, too
So how about just building your own comparitor/timer rather than
trying to repair the unknown.
So far as I know, there's nothing wrong with mine. I just was in
a place to look at one, perhaps a good one. I was
So you admit that It's not broken, but you are trying to fix it.??
Not at all! I'm trying to understand it, so that if I have to I
can fix it. (Or somebody else's, remember the bit about the shingle?)
You're entering dangerous territory, there Jim!!!
Yeah, that's for sure.
I powered up
How difficult is it to remove this board and will I be able to drive
without it. (I'm think I can but want to know definitely!)
If so, I'll pay for shipping and you can repair it as a guinea pig.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
Jim Cathey wrote:
I powered up the low-oil board on the bench, and found that the IC on
it is _not_ apparently an analog device. The RC network on it
(using the 0.047 uF capacitor) forms a 256-Hz oscillator, the
oscilloscope shows a promenent waveform on both associated pins: one a
How difficult is it to remove this board and will I be able to drive
without it. (I'm think I can but want to know definitely!)
It's a small board perpendicular to the instrument cluster's board,
soldered to the cluster by four standoff pins. Should be fairly
easy to remove, and the car will
On Mon, Jun 26, 2006 at 02:02:55PM -0700, Jim Cathey wrote:
If so, I'll pay for shipping and you can repair it as a guinea pig.
I anticipate a low likelihood of repair, mostly I just want to see
how a dead one behaves on the bench. I really don't want to try to
induce suspected failure
(I've been poking around in the 190D's instrument cluster.)
This instrument cluster has one of the low-oil timer circuit boards on
it. This board's job is to suppress the low-oil indicator lamp until
the sensor reports continuously for something like 60 seconds so that
sloshing in the oil pan
Jim,
I think you're about to stumble on a gold mine! You could make the
necessary repairs to PNP cluster and have a swap program! I'll be the
first customer as my is so annoying the PO used the old electrical tape
over the lamp repair on mine. (First thing I took off when I bought the car)
Very likely it's the electrolytic -- check for lopsided installation
(they normally stand straight up when soldered in), a bulge in the top
of the case, or any leakage of electrolyte. There has been a
widespread problem with small electrolytics (large ones too, for that
matter) in recent
Very likely it's the electrolytic -- check for lopsided installation
Looks like the electrolytic is only a power supply filter. I have
traced the circuit and it's pretty simple. The 8-pin IC corresponds
to nothing likely that's in my vintage linear databook, and is
certainly not the
Jim:
If the electrolytic is shorted or open (the available failure modes, so
to speak), it may cause the IC to turn the lamp on all the time
reguardless of the signal from the sensor.
Do check that the sensor isn't shorted, too -- they often get oil in
the float and stay on all the time for
63 matches
Mail list logo
