Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Mountain Man
Can someone provide info about a different old water heater? Old GE water heater with 4 calrod elements around outside of tank. I searched several years ago for calrod and could not find any available. Is calrod for old water heaters no longer available? Thanks. mao __

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Randy Bennell
Probably because things like the motor in the dryer run on 120V and only the heating elements run on 240V. So, in the HWT there are no 120V items as someone previously noted and the white neutral is not needed. I used to repair rental HWT for Ontario Hydro out at the lake back in the early 1

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Mitch Haley
Dan Penoff wrote: As for the lack of use of the neutral, most 240VAC appliances, such as dryers and water heaters, have neutral bars for landing the neutral in the appliance. It may or may not be bonded to ground depending on local and state codes. I believe most dryers have 120v powered ti

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Dan Penoff
In the electrical/generator business when we are pulling multiple 4/0 conductors (or larger) cable identification is done with colored 3M electrical tape in multiple locations. Since tape can come off during a pull, especially a long one with a lot of wire lube, you mark the conductors as best

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Craig
On Fri, 24 May 2013 10:27:23 -0400 Mitch Haley wrote: > I'm installing my electric heater (switching from natural draft propane > water heater) with a disconnect box and 10/2 wire. I suppose I should > do something to tint the end of the white wire red. Wish I had some red > heat shrink handy. A

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Rich Thomas
I had some 10-3 wire, just capped the neutral at the WH box, have it connected to the neutral bar in the disconnect. On yours just use a marker pen or some red tape. --R On 5/24/13 10:27 AM, Mitch Haley wrote: Rich Thomas wrote: The new one I just put in has no neutral (white) connection,

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Mitch Haley
Rich Thomas wrote: The new one I just put in has no neutral (white) connection, only red and black to give the 220V between the two hots. Some (most?) inspectors interpret the code to say 4 conductors are needed for all 240v appliances, but on something like a water heater that makes no use of

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-24 Thread Rich Thomas
The new one I just put in has no neutral (white) connection, only red and black to give the 220V between the two hots. --R On 5/23/13 8:47 PM, Dan Penoff wrote: Let's start with the basics. 1.) You should have three big wires going into the water heater - red, black, white and possibly a gre

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Jim Cathey
I touched the voltmeter to one terminal on the element and then to ground and I got 120V. Is this the correct way to check for power to the element? Not at all. Also why aren't the lights on the load controller on? Because it's not getting any power? Water heaters, the common kind, run on

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Dan Penoff
Clarification: Is the element connected to anything when you are measuring it? If not, the element is probably good, as your meter probably isn't accurate enough to measure low resistances. Otherwise, make sure everything is disconnected from the element before you attempt to measure. Dan

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread dseretakis
The reading across both terminals on the element is zero. So maybe I have a bad breaker? Sent from my iPhone On May 23, 2013, at 8:38 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: > You should have 220V across the two terminals of the element. Either side to > ground will give you 120 even if one side is open

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Dan Penoff
On May 23, 2013, at 8:24 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: > Ok I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical troubleshooting. I touched the > voltmeter to one terminal on the element and then to ground and I got 120V. > Is this the correct way to check for power to the element? > > Also why aren't th

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Craig
On Thu, 23 May 2013 18:41:18 -0600 Craig wrote: > On Thu, 23 May 2013 20:11:51 -0400 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: > > > I checked resistance of the element and it is ok-12.8 ohms. So the new > > one is not bad. > E^2 > The amount of powe

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Craig
On Thu, 23 May 2013 20:11:51 -0400 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: > I checked resistance of the element and it is ok-12.8 ohms. So the new > one is not bad. E^2 The amount of power your element will take is shown by P = -

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Peter Frederick
You should have 220V across the two terminals of the element. Either side to ground will give you 120 even if one side is open on the 22V circuit. You should have a double breaker or two fuses on a 22V circuit, and if one fuse is bad or one contact in the breaker is bad, you only have 12

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread dseretakis
Ok I'm a dummy when it comes to electrical troubleshooting. I touched the voltmeter to one terminal on the element and then to ground and I got 120V. Is this the correct way to check for power to the element? Also why aren't the lights on the load controller on? Sent from my iPhone On May 23,

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread WILTON
off" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:58 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue Sure the load controller isn't something from your utility? We used to have them here on water heaters and AC units, but they stopped offering the service ab

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread dseretakis
I checked resistance of the element and it is ok-12.8 ohms. So the new one is not bad. Sent from my iPhone On May 23, 2013, at 8:02 PM, Rich Thomas wrote: > That load controller is the power company's way of telling you to take a cold > shower. I had one and it kept screwing with the auto c

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Peter Frederick
Or there is enough crud in the bottom that the element overheats, not being in water and having the heat removed from it. Happens a lot here, we have HARD water. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Rich Thomas
That load controller is the power company's way of telling you to take a cold shower. I had one and it kept screwing with the auto controller on my fairly new WH, so I just bypassed it and took it off the wall, and the WH does just fine now. I just put in another WH in my addition, same type

Re: [MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread Dan Penoff
Sure the load controller isn't something from your utility? We used to have them here on water heaters and AC units, but they stopped offering the service about 5 years ago. Not sure why. I still have one on the AC unit in my house, but it's in failsafe mode - I disabled the circuit that acti

[MBZ] OT: Water Heater issue

2013-05-23 Thread dseretakis
OK here's the deal. It's an old Sepco Hydrastone electric water heater. It's not leaking. It just won't heat up. Over the past four years, I've replaced the heating element twice and it fixed the problem. Today, I did the same but it won't get hot. There are a couple of weird things about the s