Thanks, good points. Will gitrdun!
—FT
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> On Oct 26, 2021, at 8:35 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
>
> Don't wait too long to get that TC off and stored with a tight cap over the
> neck to keep dirt and water out. If the cap doesn't cover the neck all the
> way down then put
Don't wait too long to get that TC off and stored
with a tight cap over the neck to keep dirt and
water out. If the cap doesn't cover the neck all
the way down then put some grease on there to keep
it from rusting. Heck even a baggie and rubber
band will work for a short time.
Usually you
I have my little Kubota but not sure it would be able to lift that much
--FT
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> On Oct 25, 2021, at 1:45 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Do you have a neighbor who owns a tractor with a front loader? If you do,
> now is a good time to make him your "new best friend" and
I bought a $20 recip saw years ago as my old Sears (rebranded Milwaukee)
stripped a gear. I expected it to be crap and would last for a bit. I have beat
on the thing unmercifully and with some minimal repairs it has continued to
perform well.
--FT
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> On Oct 25, 2021, at 1:11
Do you have a neighbor who owns a tractor with a front loader? If you do,
now is a good time to make him your "new best friend" and lift the engine
off the trailer, move it to a nice paved surface and set it on cribbing
that will let you work on it now, and get an engine hoist attached to it
I have a cheap HF grinder. It works, I use it for grinding. But it has
zero power compared to my much more expensive DeWalt, which
I use for the wire wheel.
-- Jim
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I've got one of those, I think you got yours cheaper, I think I paid $20.As
with all angle grinders I beat the ever loving snot out of mine. It's performed
well although the switch is started to get flaky, it might be from the time I
dropped it, or the other time I dropped it, or the time it
I was in there a couple of weeks ago and bought a 4-1/2" angle grinder for $10.
Hard to pass by, since I don't have one and have occasionally wanted one.
It's their cheapest (I think) brand, "Drill Master" and likely junk but if it
gets one or two jobs done it's probably worth the price. Might
That's pretty typical. Consider their multimeters. One is like $3, the other
more like $25. The expensive one is very good. The cheap one not so much...
Curt
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On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:45 AM, Jim Cathey via
Mercedes wrote: > You know I was thinking about
Looks like I will need to get the torque conv off before mounting it to
the stand. I might just get a coupla more of those little moving
dollies to put the engine on to move it around, I did that with others,
makes it easy to get them on/off the little trailer to move them
> You know I was thinking about [engine hoist]... time to check out those HF
> emails I get every day!
When I bought they had two sizes. I bought the cheaper one. Wish I hadn't.
-- Jim
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You know I was thinking about that... time to check out those HF emails
I get every day!
--FT
On 10/24/21 4:49 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote:
An engine stand would make this a lot easier.
-D
On Oct 24, 2021, at 4:48 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
wrote:
yeah OK I just went and
An engine stand would make this a lot easier.
-D
> On Oct 24, 2021, at 4:48 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> yeah OK I just went and looked at it, there is a little plastic cover at the
> bottom forward of the starter ring gear. So I would have to get the engine
> up a bit as
yeah OK I just went and looked at it, there is a little plastic cover at
the bottom forward of the starter ring gear. So I would have to get the
engine up a bit as you say and then go at the bolts through that hole.
I guess I don't need to get it off now, not that big a deal but good to
know
On the ones I worked on, the access port/hole was centered on the bottom of
the mounting flange, covered with a dust plate - access looking to the rear
from the front side. yes, you'll need to lift the engine to get to it, and
be able to rotate the crank to get all the bolts, usually two per ear
Correct. Access to those bolts will be on the front side of the starter
ring / flex plate. Usually there is an opening below the area of the
starter.
Likely, you will need to lift the engine up and set it on wood blocks of
some sort to get access to the area, then turn the engine over by hand
In your photo you can _see_ the feet on the TC, that would
have to go to the (thin, spring steel) flex plate. Should be bolt
heads there, facing forwards. Usually accessed through a
hole in what is currently sitting on your trailer floor.
-- Jim
___
so there are bolts somewhere accessible to get at the flex plate? I've
got the trans and bell housing off, it just slid out, I could not see
anything holding the flywheel and the torque conv on unless there are
some bolts behind (i.e., to the front of the engine) but I don't see how
that
Second that, Torque converter is bolted to the flex plate, which drives the
transmission, through the torque converter [fluid coupling, or "liquid
clutch"]. With the engine setting flat on the trailer, your access to those
bolts may be restricted.
On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 12:31 PM Jim Cathey via
Like Jim said.
Flex plate bolts to crankshaft like a flywheel in a manual transmission
car.
TQ bolts to flex plate, covers the crank bolts so you have to remove the
TQ before removing the flex plate.
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Last time I worked on something like this, there were bolts holding the TC to
the flex plate
that was itself bolted to the crankshaft. Accessed through a cutout in the
front housing.
-- Jim
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