W123 fenders are easy, especially if they don't have
the "stickum" on the inner engine bay edges. The bad
part is what you find underneath, since they usually
hide the really nasty rust and corrosion, especially
under the bottom rear corners at the leading edge of
the door.
Dan
--- wilton strick
'Don't know about 240D, but replacement of LF fender on my 91 126 twelve yrs
ago was extremely easy; LF door, too - simple hand tools.
Wilton
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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For some reason, no 240d's have the sealer, and the 300d's I think 82 or
83 and up, dont either.
Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 14:10:13 -0700 (PDT) LWB250 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> If you feel really brave, take the (new) hood and
>> fenders and have them prepped and spraye
On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:43:22 -0400 "Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I asked Kaleb once if he had any and he said most of what he had was
> rusted just like mine are. My paint is not factory anymore so no chance
> of getting paint matched ones from a junkyard.
My paint is still close e
On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 14:10:13 -0700 (PDT) LWB250 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you feel really brave, take the (new) hood and
> fenders and have them prepped and sprayed, then put
> them on yourself.
>
> The worst part about front fender R&R is getting the
> old seam sealer off, which takes a tor
Once the fenders are off, if you want to practice, you may find some stuff
behind the fenders to weld. If the welds are less the great, not to worry,
they'll be hidden once the new fenders go on. If you go with new fenders,
you can always keep the old ones and mess around practicing your welds to
THe reason I would consider it is to gain some more skill with the
welder. But lately, time is scarce and I tend to agree that $158 is
money well spent in this situation.
I have a heat gun to help soften the sealer if that's a problem.
Allan
--
1983 300D
Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
LWB250 wrote:
>
> Why mess with a patch panel and all the related
> hassles when a new fender is $158?
No professional bodyman is going to work on a $160 fender, because
his labor would be more than the new part. If you weld in a patch,
you still have to paint the thing, so no savings there.
Mit
There was a salvage yard in Houston that always had a few 123s, bodies
in good shape from the fairly benign situation here for metal. Not sure
what has happened to it, I think it sold or something. Fenders were $35
if I recall.
--R
E M wrote:
> After 25 years, two different cars that left t
After 25 years, two different cars that left the factory with the same paint
colour will no longer match anyway. If you're not in a real hurry for the
car and on a tighter budget, you may find a local school that offers body
shop classes that may do the work for their cost. Kids have to practice
On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:16:06 -0400, "Rolf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:
> Why not just try a local junkyard. $185 is a good deal for OEM, DO NOT
> get the POS adsits. PO of my wifes wagon had replaced both fenders and
> hood from a junkyard find that may have been in worse shape than the
> original d
If you patch the old, you'll still have to paint match the work. For $158
new, not worth messing around with the old ones.
Ed
300E
On 04/04/2008, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Rusty Cullens wrote:
> >
> > $158.00 each new Genuine MB
>
>
> The fun is in removing the old (which ma
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Repair fenders or replace?
riginal Message -
From: "Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Repair fenders or replace?
>
> "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:
>> Hi Alan,
>> Alon
If you feel really brave, take the (new) hood and
fenders and have them prepped and sprayed, then put
them on yourself.
The worst part about front fender R&R is getting the
old seam sealer off, which takes a torch or a couple
of big a** heat lamps.
Dan
--- Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Why mess with a patch panel and all the related
hassles when a new fender is $158?
No matter how good a job your body guy does, welds
will eventually bubble up and the fender will have to
be replaced anyway.
MB sheet metal has always been relatively cheap, IMHO,
which is why I have never messed w
"LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:
> Hi Alan,
> Along with the option of replacing the fender with new ones is the
> option of cutting the old fender back to a place where there is no more
> rust. There are Patch Panels available to allow the replacement of just
> the damaged area. The new
2 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Repair fenders or replace?
> My front fenders are starting to rust right at the bottom behind the
> wheel, I think this is a pretty typical location for rust on a W123 from
> what I've seen. It is all the way through on the drivers side, just
> bubbling the pai
My hood needs to be painted anyway (no gloss) so I'd probably have a
body shop paint the whole front end. The car's already been resprayed
at least once so it's not a showpiece by any means.
Allan
--
1983 300D
"Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:
> Fortunately, I don't do body work.
>
__
Fortunately, I don't do body work.
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: Re:
Rusty Cullens wrote:
>
> $158.00 each new Genuine MB
The fun is in removing the old (which may be glued on) and
paintmatching the new.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL
$158.00 each new Genuine MB
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: "Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 3:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Repair fender
My front fenders are starting to rust right at the bottom behind the
wheel, I think this is a pretty typical location for rust on a W123 from
what I've seen. It is all the way through on the drivers side, just
bubbling the paint on the passenger side.
Thought about cutting out the rust and weldin
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