OK, so I haven't yet decided on whether I'm going to attempt the valve
adjustment on my 83' 300D myself or hope I can find someone who knows
what they're doing. If I decide to go that route, it sounds further
complicated since from what I recall the engine is supposed to be cold
as in "let to
I've only owned my MB for 2 years now, but I've done at least 5 valve adjust,
and it's a fairly straight forward job. For the order, do the valves first and
then diesel purge and change your filters. The main spinon filter has a
suggested interval of 15kmi, so it can be changed the same time y
the references. Where's the best/cheapest place to get the valve
adjustment tools? Or wouldn't I really need them?
Supposedly it can be done without, but it's rather painful. I made
my own out of long 14mm wrenches from the pawnshop and a torch. Don't
start with flimsy ones as the bends you
Who learned valve adjustment on a 1939 Chevrolet Coupe.
60 Falcon for me. As I recall, several times I did it while
the engine was idling. I don't really recommend this method!
(On that pushrod engine it was neither dangerous nor very
messy, but it's not very easy and is kind of hard on the
to
Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:32 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
> Who learned valve adjustment on a 1939 Chevrolet Coupe.
60 Falcon for
Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
> the references. Where's the best/cheapest place to get the valve
> adjustment tools? Or wouldn't I really need t
Tom offered:
"Valve adjustment is an art as much as a science. Remember, you use
"feeler" gauges. You have to learn the proper "feel" of the gauge at the
correct adjustment. That said; the only way to learn is to do it several
times. I suggest you get someone who has done it before to guide you
t
On the wrenches, the other writer was correct. Get some cheap open-end
wrenches (14 or 15mm? I think), put the open end in a vise, heat it with
a torch about 1 inch above the working part, bend it 45 deg, then heat
it again about 2 in beyond that and bend it back the other way so it is
paralle
il we establish a more solid relationship.
Tom Potter
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
etc.
ED]
> >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
> >Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 9:28 AM
> >To: Mercedes Discussion List
> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge,
> >etc.
> >
> >
> >
> >>the reference
'51 VW 1100cc engine for me -- cold and stopped.
The only valves I've adjusted while the engine was running were new
hydraulic tappets on a Chevy or Ford - can't remember which - you
turned till they stopped rattling.
On 3/17/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Who learned valve adjustme
I've never bothered to get and bend a set of wrenches - I just use
straight ones. Probably takes longer to mess around and get things
lined up so you can use them, but it can be done.
The feel part of using a feeler gauge is to have some resistance when
pulling the gauge through the gap, but not s
OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
OK Don wrote:
I don't remember what the dowel size was, and I only needed to use it
once, on one glow plug. It was what I found lying around the fit. Most
of the time you don't need it.
On 3/17/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wro
Levi Smith wrote:
OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
If the old plug was stubborn about coming out (you had to wiggle it)
then a reamer would be desirable.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EM
: Friday, March 17, 2006 8:06 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Valve Adjustment, Tools, Timing chain, Diesel Purge, etc.
OK, so I haven't yet decided on whether I'm going to attempt the valve
adjustment on my 83' 300D myself or hope I can find someone who knows
what they're doing. If I decide t
Tom offered:
"Valve adjustment is an art as much as a science. Remember, you use
"feeler" gauges. You have to learn the proper "feel" of the gauge at the
correct adjustment. That said; the only way to learn is to do it several
times. I suggest you get someone who has done it before to guide you
t
OK Don wrote:
The feel part of using a feeler gauge is to have some resistance when
pulling the gauge through the gap, but not so much that it's changing
the gap -- no resistance means that the gap is too wide.
One thing I've found helpful, when I'm in doubt, is to do a go/no-go
test. Try a g
The only time I needed one was when the new glow plug wouldn't go in ---
On 3/17/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK, so how would one know when one needs to use a reamer?
>
>
> OK Don wrote:
> > I don't remember what the dowel size was, and I only needed to use it
> > once, on one glow
Reamer is very important. The carbon builds up and can interfere with
the GP doing its job. The plug will cook and short out much sooner if
the crud is not removed at each change of GP. Paid $600 to have all
the crud removed in the e300d because the last guy to install GP #5 did
not, and i
redghost wrote:
Reamer is very important. The carbon builds up and can interfere with
the GP doing its job. The plug will cook and short out much sooner if
the crud is not removed at each change of GP. Paid $600 to have all
the crud removed in the e300d because the last guy to install GP #5
Well that is what I am going to do with that nasty 606 from now on.
Might give Gump a ream, just for grins when her GP change around 300k.
On Friday, March 17, 2006, at 07:12 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
redghost wrote:
Reamer is very important. The carbon builds up and can interfere with
the
21 matches
Mail list logo
