You may want to consider other topologies, such as flyback.
I spent a *LOT* of time debugging the DC-DC converter for my wristwatch
project, with simulations and bench-testing. In the end, I got it working
but my simulations were way-off because I did not have proper modeling of
my
Hi
Modern switchinh regulators don't 'just switch' they are more advanced, to
determine a suitable inductor, you need to take a look at the datasheet of the
IC.
The converter from the link you showed, works perfectly, i rebuild that one a
few times. If you have stability problems, you can
Hello. I'm trying to build a boost converter for my project to boost 12V to
150-220V. I'm looking at various converter circuits online, like this one:
http://desmith.net/NMdS/Electronics/NixiePSU.html, and they use inductors
on the order of 100uH to 150uH, and use drivers that switch at
No embedded image...
On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 4:40 AM, Joe Croft wrote:
> Hi Jon,
>
> I have embedded the picture below. It's a good guess if you post the
> circuit on a forum, you don't mind others re-posting it. I am definitely
> using in IN-13. 3 legs vs 2, it's hard to
Hi all-
Does anyone know which socket to use with DT-1704C tubes? It looks like a
9 pin mini but I was hoping to confirm.
Thanks!
-Dylan
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I don't see a circuit in the link - it links on to a dead site. Can you
post here? Some thoughts...
Are you sure you are using IN-13 not IN-9 ? 13mA to fully light the tube is
around what might be expected for a slightly cathode poisoned IN-9. It's
easy to check even if the tube markings have
Yes, its only for testing if all digits work and look nice. With the rotary
knob i can easy switch between the numbers.
And i also have made it for when i take pictures of tubes, so i can place
the tube in a fixed socket and switch between the digits remotely.
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