Thanks a lot for the information! There seems to be a lot of room for
improvement for rev 2…
The PCB should arrive this week, I will make some tests before connecting
this thing to the pc.
SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. schrieb am Dienstag, 16. Februar 2021 um 23:30:28
UTC+1:
> First of all,
First of all, grounding - or - how to connect the shield, is not really
specified, and usually you should consider the chip's datasheet /
application notes on how to do it.
For example, see the TUSB4020BI
On 2021-02-16 3:32 p.m., Dekatron42 wrote:
> I've had similar problems with two Russian CRT's and I had to use
> scalpel to cut them loose and then carefully peel them off as they had
> almost fused to the glass, probably from the plastizicer had evaporated
> but also left a thin film on the glass
No, unfortunately not, no hard figures - maybe Jon has. I've only read in
some books about dekatron construction (neon tube construction in general
where dekatrons are shown as special variations) that they have similar
lifespans compared to small neon lamps but that the complex design
I've had similar problems with two Russian CRT's and I had to use scalpel
to cut them loose and then carefully peel them off as they had almost fused
to the glass, probably from the plastizicer had evaporated but also left a
thin film on the glass that worked almost like glue.
I tried to put
Hi all
I have a crt with what looks to be a protective plastic sleeve over the
socket and gun end (pictured: https://imgur.com/9exmkCq). It isn't coming
off with gentle pressure, are there any tricks other than careful
destructive removal?
Thanks
--Toby
--
You received this message because
I have an old Racal-Dana counter in which the most significant digit has
areas that are dark. I'm putting this down to cathode poisoning, and want
to try restoring it.
There are some other peculiarities : that digit usually starts working
properly if I touch the anode with a DVM probe (but fails
*Martin* - Do you know how long dekatrons last ? I have an A-101 running as
a spinner in one of my clocks, and it's been going 60RPM 24/7 for almost 8
years with no signs of degradation. I use 30k dropping resistors at the
cathodes, and the current is right at the spec value of 450uA, so that
There is one more dimension to think about when running a dekatron and that
is that over time it will degrade due to sputtering affecting the
electrodes and to maintain a correct counting when it ages you should keep
the voltages as described in the datasheet, especially the guide and bias
