I've done a fair bit of toner transfer PCB action and when it works well
it's great. But I found it tough to make it come out consistantly and
small traces were tough. I started using pre-sensitized boards and
photo etching. More work but better results. Contact me off list if you
want my curr
On Friday, March 22, 2013 5:59:43 AM UTC+10:30, Sebastian Götte wrote:
>
> I tend to just let my sodium persulfate solution dry and crystallize
> when I am not using it, you just re-add water and dissolve the crystals
> by stirring and you can use it again.
>
That's handy to know. I'll definit
On 03/21/2013 08:16 PM, Smiffy wrote:
> One other note on persulphates - ammonium persulphate is very hygroscopic.
> I had a 2.5kg tub, which I found to be useless when I went to it the other
> week. Whilst the tub itself was polypropylene, the lid was made of some
> other plastic that had decid
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 6:10:44 PM UTC+10:30, mikegregg wrote:
>
> I switched to sodium/potassium persulfate a while back myself. It was a
> good switch. Just make sure it's nice and warm. I typically heat mine to
> 110-120f before I start etching. The higher heat makes for cleaner traces,
Hey, great tip, that one!
If you use FeCl3 then get some oxalic acid as well to clean up after...
>
> :)
>
> Grahame
>
>
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I've always used a mega bubble tank so I have no comparison to make. I
just change the bath when the etch times start to rise. The made up
solution is supposed to have a life of about 1 - 2 months and the
crystals over a year. But I wonder if that is for commercial
manufacturing rather than
I switched to sodium/potassium persulfate a while back myself. It was a
good switch. Just make sure it's nice and warm. I typically heat mine to
110-120f before I start etching. The higher heat makes for cleaner
traces, and a faster etch.
Michael-
On 3/21/2013 12:17 AM, Nick wrote:
I've swi
I've switched to Sodium Persulfate rather than FeCl for much the same
reason - much cleaner and less toxic.
However, I have a Mega Electronics bubble tank and when I asked their
technical support about its safety in a tank designed for FeCl, they said
that the aeration would shorten the life of
Hey, no offense taken, one of the nice things about this list is the
broad range of interests and skills that exist - not just electronics
None of the chemicals are particulary hazardous, but I would echo the
suggestion of NOT using FeCl3 - I had an accident once and SHMBO was,
shall we say,
No offense intended Grahame! I'm an Organic Chemist, so I know a few things
about chemicals too..;-)
Thanks for the link, I'll be sure to check it out, just not familiar with
the whole process and thought I'd ask 'those in the know'
Cheers,
Nick
On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 1:47 PM, Grahame Marsh
Well I'm a chemical engineer so should I be better with the process
& chemicals?
This is a link to my top dozen home made PCB tips
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/jUUlqV-avvM/4JgBIFcBBtEJ
You can see my results on my electronics webpages
http://www.sgitheach.org.uk/electronic
neonixie-l@googlegroups.com"
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:05 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Question for all you electronic engineers out there.
I'd like to be able to make some of my own PCB's using the toner transfer
method. Can anyone recommend a good starting product/kit that they like? An
I'd like to be able to make some of my own PCB's using the toner transfer
method. Can anyone recommend a good starting product/kit that they like?
Any tips, tricks to help a newbie get started?
Thanks in advance...
Cheers,
Nick
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