We're in a rural location and, like you, we often see close to 250V...
Consequently, I run all sensitive equipment through on-line UPSs which
gives me a nice, clean, steady 230VAC, plus protects against the brown- and
black-outs that occur with reasonable frequency.
Also use a UPS for the comms
Here in the UK (Hampshire) my mains often sat around 245v...
Naughty really as the limit is supposed to be +6%/-10% on 230v...
On Monday, 27 April 2020 17:56:53 UTC+1, David Pye wrote:
>
> Curious - which country are you in with 240v mains?
>
>
--
You received this message because you are subs
USA but with a 120-240 step up transformer.
On Monday, April 27, 2020 at 12:56:53 PM UTC-4, David Pye wrote:
>
> Curious - which country are you in with 240v mains?
>
> On Mon, 27 Apr 2020, 17:08 celzey11, >
> wrote:
>
>> Just went ahead and ordered some 2111 green plexiglass...will try it.
>> O
Curious - which country are you in with 240v mains?
On Mon, 27 Apr 2020, 17:08 celzey11, wrote:
> Just went ahead and ordered some 2111 green plexiglass...will try it.
> Other random sidenote, do you think 240v is too high to run the clock on
> (it was designed for 220v)? I'm using a converter.
Just went ahead and ordered some 2111 green plexiglass...will try it. Other
random sidenote, do you think 240v is too high to run the clock on (it was
designed for 220v)? I'm using a converter. I noticed the filaments in the
tubes are glowing slightly, and that this can reduce the life of the tu
On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 11:06:08 PM UTC-4, celzey11 wrote:
>
> Hi, the beast finally showed up...and the front glass was smashed. So
> again, thanks Terry for not only the excellent write up on electrically
> restoring these clocks, but also on recreating the glass front. Sidenote,
> have
Hi, the beast finally showed up...and the front glass was smashed. So again,
thanks Terry for not only the excellent write up on electrically restoring
these clocks, but also on recreating the glass front. Sidenote, have you looked
into using real glass to make the replacement or do you think pl
type of spring release?
>
>
>
> Thanks, Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Bill Notfaded
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 31, 2020 4:12 PM
> *To:* neonixie-l
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7
ooglegroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bill NotfadedSent: Tuesday, March 31, 2020 4:12 PMTo: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7
Clock... What kind of IV-26 tubes? Just found out there's Type 1, Type 2, and
Type 3 IV-26's. I used the braid and then switched from big bulk
, March 31, 2020 4:12 PM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7 Clock... What kind of IV-26 tubes?
Just found out there's Type 1, Type 2, and Type 3 IV-26's.
I used the braid and then switched from big bulk desoldering stations to this:
American HAKKO Products
: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7 Clock... What kind of IV-26 tubes?
Just found out there's Type 1, Type 2, and Type 3 IV-26's.
I used the braid and then switched from big bulk desoldering stations to this:
[51Sk9m9-7JL._SL1000_.jpg]
American HAKKO Products FR301-03
wonder why you waited so
> long to get a vital tool.
>
> Jefg
>
>
>
> Original message
> From: Bill Notfaded >
> Date: 3/31/20 3:12 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l >
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7 Clock... What kind of IV-26
ubject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Elektronika-7
Clock... What kind of IV-26 tubes? Just found out there's Type 1, Type 2, and
Type 3 IV-26's. I used the braid and then switched from big bulk desoldering
stations to this:American HAKKO Products FR301-03/P
--
You received this message becaus
I used the braid and then switched from big bulk desoldering stations to
this:
[image: 51Sk9m9-7JL._SL1000_.jpg]
American HAKKO Products FR301-03/P
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving
I have had a lot of success using this brand..
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0ZSNZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For larger jobs I use a solder sucker device.
https://smile.amazon.com/Aoyue-968A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B006FA481G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3UN415IVIP1M2&d
I use a manual suction device to get most of the solder out, flex the lead
with soldering tip to make sure it's no longer attached to the via, then
cleanup with braid after the part is removed. Lastly, clean-of flux with a
swab moistened with appropriate cleaner.
Often, it's easier to snip the
>Happy desoldering!
Thought I might as well ask... What's everyone's favorite way to desolder?
Or recommended desoldering braid/suction plunger product? I'll definately
have to stock up on some to complete this project. I've used desoldering
braid that worked well, and some that did not, but ha
Apologies if I put you on the wrong track! I have a couple of clocks with both
the IV26’s and IV25’s in them and they use the Type 1’s and not the ones with
the internally tied dots. If you end up buying some you don’t need then PM me
and can buy them off you.
Happy desoldering!
Nick
Sent fro
Thanks for the response! I think I'm going to end up using a voltage
converter to avoid having to modify the transformer setup. As far as the
tubes go, I still plan on replacing all of them, even though it's gonna be
a pain, just to restore this to its original functionality. I ended up
orderin
On Sunday, March 29, 2020 at 8:49:05 AM UTC-4, celzey11 wrote:
>
> Hello all, just ended up winning an IV-26 clock, the kind with 12 tubes
> for each digit. The one I got has very worn out tubes, and some segments
> barely light, so I want to replace some or all of the tubes. But what type
> of
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