Hewlett-Packard ran tests, and found that the flux left on the board
protected the board from corrosion.
Some vintage HP boards are actually coated with flux (Boards from the late
nixie-early IC era)
On Monday, December 15, 2014 8:51:01 PM UTC-8, westdave wrote:
I have a IN-18 clock in a
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From: David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: KLOK K7 broken from corrosive rot
There are two types of solder flux. The old rosin-core flux is inert.
The newer organic flux is corrosive
On Saturday, 20 December 2014 16:18:47 UTC, johnk wrote:
Iso-propyl is/was called rubbing alcohol [and used as such in the sports
industry].
Rubbing Alcohol can be either 70% IPA or 70% ethyl alcohol (ethanol)
which has been denatured. The formulation is up to the individual
manufacturer.
if using Isopropyl alcohol, aka IPA, make sure you do it in a well
ventilated area.
IPA will give you a blinding/pounding headache and is not nice stuff. ..
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There are two types of solder flux. The old rosin-core flux is inert.
The newer organic flux is corrosive and would result in the sort of
damage described in this clock. It needs to be washed off in hot water
soon after use.
On 12/18/14 9:39 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
The solder flux
I quite like the smell of IPA, but then again I'm a chemist, so I
would..;-) As solvents go, it's fairly innocuous, but poison is always in
the dose, so Nick makes a good point, use it in a well ventilated area.
On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 1:14 PM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
if using
I've been sniffing it for years, and there's nothing wrong with, wrong
with, wrong with, wrong with, me!! Ira.
On 12/19/2014 3:24 PM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
I quite like the smell of IPA, but then again I'm a chemist, so I
would..;-) As solvents go, it's fairly innocuous, but poison is
I prefer the aerosol flux-removal solvents (ethanol rather than isopropyl),
but I found that simply spraying the board is NOT sufficient; you need to
scrub the board before the solvent evaporates. Cotton swabs are effective,
but they leave annoying fibers on the board.
Rinsing the solvent+flux
As others have already mentioned, the Isopropyl Alcohol and a toothbrush
do work quite well. More Isopropyl in a spray bottle, can then be used
to flush it all away. Leaves it nice and clean.Ira.
On 12/19/2014 3:47 PM, gregebert wrote:
I prefer the aerosol flux-removal solvents (ethanol
On 14-12-19 06:47 PM, gregebert wrote:
Years ago Radio Shack sold an excellent aerosol flux remover, but it's
no longer available. I used it on several boards and it rinsed-away all
of the flux without leaving any residue.
Probably http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1-Trichloroethane
I would like to know also if the cottage cheese corrosion look would be
from solder-flux, also. I have a Z5660 Nixie clock from PV Electronics that
Pete soldered together. It's an excellent clock and I love it, but Pete
left a ton of solder-flux on it and I have yet to remove it myself.
The solder flux won't do anything untoward in my experience. I still have
amplifiers I put together over 25 years ago without cleaning the flux off
them and they work fine...if it bothers you so much, take the tubes out and
the PCB from the case and get an old toothbrush, some isopropyl alcohol
I wonder if corrosive solder-flux was used. Did you see any telltale
residue with a greenish tint ?
Was the damage confined to areas around electrolytic caps ? They do contain
corrosive electrolyte and can fail over time.
The only other thing I can think of, and this is a long-shot, is ozone.
-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: KLOK K7 broken from corrosive rot
I wonder if corrosive solder-flux was used. Did you see any telltale residue
with a greenish tint ?
Was the damage confined to areas around electrolytic caps ? They do contain
corrosive electrolyte and can fail over
On 16/12/2014 15:33, gregebert wrote:
I wonder if corrosive solder-flux was used. Did you see any telltale
residue with a greenish tint ?
Was the damage confined to areas around electrolytic caps ? They do
contain corrosive electrolyte and can fail over time.
Also any Nicad backup battery can
Aluminum and Lead and Tin all have different electrode potentials and will
corrode when in direct contact. When not in direct contact, the slightest
condensation of atmospheric water forms an electrolyte which then attracts
and holds more water due to the increased surface area and surface
december 2014 19:35
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: KLOK K7 broken from corrosive rot
Aluminum and Lead and Tin all have different electrode potentials and will
corrode when in direct contact. When not in direct contact, the slightest
condensation of atmospheric water
Might be a good idea to keep it somewhere safer, fires and electricity...
Hopefully the looks of it won't be damaged!
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