Still going :)
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-B-MrF8XyBNtcI0Tb6hGgRek24HDhK35/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PCG6obuk9D6SQtHslbPhG_v4dAfwz5Bv/view?usp=drivesdk
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That’s awesome, sounds like it was an older model. I hear they can have a lot
of engine problems. The Cb750c has been doing good pulling the car, 65-75 mph
no problem. I would like a ural setup but thinking a Cb900c would be a good
upgrade.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-B-MrF8XyBNtcI0T
Still going, if anyone was wondering lol
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To post t
Newer Urals have 2wd but not all of the models have that option. This is a
older 80s USSR era Ural no sidecar drive and no brake. I can do a walk around.
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It's a workout to turn it, roll off the gas for lefts and on for rights helps.
Lot of fun :)
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to nig
Well it's been a year, and the sidecar project moved slowly, and then I stumble
across a 1980s Ural sidecar for 500.00 listed on Facebook market.
Having made most the mounts all I needed was to convert the sidecar mounts to
work with mine (sawzall and welder). Now I could bore you with step b
The SOHC 1980-82 650 engine (single over head cam) and the 83 DOHC 650 (dual
over head cam) are nothing alike. I thnk you going to have to follow the
service manual.
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A clip from my ride home from work on the CB700s, second bridge was a
little more windy. Lower quality video done with the go pro, no audio just
wind noise.
https://youtu.be/JisHsKpKjhs
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"Nighthawk Motorcycle Lover
To answer my own question, it looks like a NO.
On Saturday, November 22, 2014 12:22:09 PM UTC-5, jman2343 wrote:
>
> Stupid question. A 81 CB750C engine should bolt into a 82 Nighthawk 650
> frame? The 750 been sitting and has 3k, the nighthawk has been sitting
> and has 7k, i
Stupid question. A 81 CB750C engine should bolt into a 82 Nighthawk 650
frame? The 750 been sitting and has 3k, the nighthawk has been sitting
and has 7k, it starts but can tell the starter clutch is most likely
failing, as the starter will catch and then spin, seems a tad better after
warm
I just feel uncomfortable knowing people can walk by and look at her fluid
level. :)
On Sat, Nov 8, 2014 at 7:50 AM, Tommy Hill wrote:
> Oh! Never woulda thought I could buy one. Thought you had made them -
> excluding the dime!
>
> I like the dime, but wanna see it.
>
> Thanks All and EG for
I mean to say they use what is higher, your purchase price or the NADA
"Good" value.
Unless you can prove other wise that the vehicle is worth less, maybe could
have sent a picture lol.
On Monday, November 3, 2014 9:31:14 PM UTC-5, jman2343 wrote:
>
> They use the NADA "
tion? What amount should you have had on the bill of
> sale? Graham
>
> On Nov 3, 2014, at 9:04 PM, jman2343 wrote:
>
> Just an update on the Vermont registration. Mine was returned because of
> NADA listed value; had a feeling that would happen. I've read that its a
>
money.
I wrote the bill of sale for 500 even though I paid 2, and it flew over
like a lead balloon. So brings total to 114.20 (44 dollar fee + 70.20
tax) On the plus side, now I just have to write another check and its a
done deal.
On Saturday, October 18, 2014 2:23:10 PM UTC-4, jman2343
Something I've been thinking about for sometime, a cafe racer. Well just
last weekend I went on to CL and spotted a 1975 CB750F Super sport for
sale, 300 bucks, complete parts bike. Called the guy up he said it runs
and has paper work.. Okay, I'll be over.
Get to his place and he tells
All the work was just done, tires have about 300 miles on them. But was
going to shoot for 900-1000, Blue book is 1500 in top condition.
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 9:53:45 AM UTC-4, jman2343 wrote:
>
> How much would you sell a 1983 Nighthawk CB650sc for?
>
> Color Maroon
&g
How much would you sell a 1983 Nighthawk CB650sc for?
Color Maroon
24,000 miles
New Tires
Rebuilt carbs
Rebuilt front forks
Rebuilt front brake system (calipers, master, new pads)
Rebuilt starter
Replaced rear shocks (came from a bike with 7k miles)
Oil and Filter changed
Rear final drive fluid ch
H, doesn't look safe lol
On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 7:59:07 PM UTC-4, Paul wrote:
>
> We've shown some pretty wild stuff that people carry on their motorcycles,
> and I can add this one to the mix that I actually saw myself.
>
> Took this picture at a stop light in Meridian, Idaho (suburb
ick walnut shell blasting in the sand blaster. So with the cleaning, ATF
soaking the biscuit and flat o-ring, plus the rebuild kit I hope to have a
like new petcock that will work for years to come.
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 12:22:53 PM UTC-4, jman2343 wrote:
>
> My petcock body has
A big thank you to everyone :). Bernie I emailed you my address.
Allan thank you for the link, I have a 83 CB650 could see if the petcock fits
the CB700 also.
Tommy let me know, I think when I drilled rivets I was off on one side, so
might be best to grab another petcock, right now I see
My petcock body has a leak at the knob. If I wiggle the knob it leaks more. I
would try a used one but not sure if this is common and will run into the same
issue. There was a new one on eBay with all the parts for 200+ but missed.
Seems there is no petcock bodies avalible anymore. Cant thi
Starter rebuild kits will not fix the bad armature. You need a new starter.
My CB700s wouldn't start when hot, all lights would dim while cranking (pulse
with each compression stoke the starter pulled threw). When this happens you
also get voltage drop to the coils and ignition control module,
try giving it some choke and see if it clears it up. The accelerator
passage and diaphragm maybe.
On Tuesday, July 29, 2014 10:48:30 AM UTC-4, Matthew Ward wrote:
>
> OK so I rode the bike to town maybe 15 miles ran great no problem parked
> it sat for an hour maybe well on the way back to w
I think I'll do some trial and error, looking to change over to another
setup, just not a fan of these carburetors used.
On Saturday, July 26, 2014 6:03:58 PM UTC-4, jman2343 wrote:
>
> Anyone one know of a Carburetor swap that can be done to the 81 CB750,
> I've tried over
Seems the fuse holder on the bike is part of the wire harness part #
32100-MW3-670
new it can go for around 267, ebay has a used one for 100 bucks plus
shipping. I'd see about splicing in a external blade fuse holder with a
weather cap, most auto parts store sells them. Otherwise its a harne
Anyone one know of a Carburetor swap that can be done to the 81 CB750, I've
tried over and over to remove a blockage from the number 1 carburetor body
in the pilot circuit and no luck. Only thing I keep coming up with in
search is CR flat side carbs which cost some money.
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I rebuilt the original starter for my 84 CB700 Nighthawk S and could tell
it was still drawing too much, and once the bike was hot it wouldn't pull
it threw compression. Found a used one on eBay and same results. Just
received a new starter (Rick's Electric) and man what a difference. So if
First I'll start by saying this is a great group. I keep reading and
learning from the posts, help when I can, and share my personal projects.
Today I'll share something personal that happen a day ago. I have a
cousin that has lost his mind (I'm going to try and shorten this as much as
possi
did you try using a mirror (like the extendable inspection mirrors) and a
flash light? You might be able to see where its leaking from. My guesses
are fuel T rail cracked (plastic) or o-rings joining carburetor bodies. Or
the float bowl gasket. I don't think its a float valve issue otherwise
Its been hours of searching and reading. Best so far is a page on ebay
that explains options for making your exhaust quiet. They state that over
time the baffle can loose its effectiveness and will need to be replaced, I
don't see how a metal tube with holes or fins can loose anything other th
I should add this is a 1981 CB750c stock muffler.
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Just in case you run into problems again, you can also reverse bleed the
system. A turkey baster (clean unused and never used for food after you
use it lol) and a vac hose or some sort of rubber tubing, suck up some
clean new brake fluid in to the baster, hook tube to baster and bleeder,
open
Yeah the only muffler I've open so far is a Vance and Hines which used a
packing wrapped around a resonator pipe. I'll have to figure out what I
like to do with the exhaust, I like the crash bars with highway pegs, and
that will only fit with the aftermarket exhaust, unless I cut the mounts on
Guess I'm going to have to jet it if I want to keep the crash bars/ highway
pegs lol, it wont bolt on with the stock exhaust. Lets see if I can find a
jet kit.
On Saturday, May 31, 2014 4:57:01 PM UTC-4, jman2343 wrote:
>
> So I've been working on this machine for sometime, it
On Saturday, May 31, 2014 4:57:01 PM UTC-4, jman2343 wrote:
>
> So I've been working on this machine for sometime, it sat for 26 years
> with gas left in it. Hardest part was cleaning the tank lol then I used
> Por15. Anyway the bike had an aftermarket exhaust, bike ran an
The restore has come out good, double O steel wool did wonders for the
chrome, rebuilt carburetors, rebuilt master cylinder and calipers, new
tires, rebuilt front forks, she is a nice riding machine. Just the dang
right muffler and don't want to run the aftermarket that was on it because
it wa
Yeah you need to pull the pilot A/F screws also pick up K&L carb kits and carb
dip. You can count the turns in on each carb A/F screw till it lightly seats
and record each number for the respective carb or use the base setting method
of 2 to 2.5 turns out from closed (never tighten them up, jus
How did you clean them? I find a full disassembly of the carbs and a soak in
carb cleaner dip (the stuff in the paint can) is best. If the pilot jet isn't
pressed in I remove all brass and soak for 3 day ( the brass ) the aluminum
bodies can handle 24 hours but longer soak times run a risk of
Rebuilding the carbs is going to be on the must do list. Unless your lucky
and they were drained before it was stored, yet the float needle tips will
be shot, also the gas tank itself will be the other issue. I have a 81
CB750 that the gas was left in the tank, it turned to tar plus all the
r
offered a 1983 CB650 that runs, tank is clean, stems for all 4 turn
signals broken, front brakes locked up and needs tires, its maroon but hell
I couldn't say no. I told him I was making out, but guess he really wants
an old tube radio.
http://i15.photobucket.com/album
It should have its decals, however it does have a more aggressive look to
me without them.
Clear coat does help in protection and brings the gloss level up, however
the old cars never had it, the protection was wax, which has to be done
every so often. From a painting stand point, provided
Thank you for the compliments :)
I powder coated a lot of the parts (tank, swing arm, etc) the frame was
painted using a KBS motorcycle frame kit, its some thick stuff, maybe
should of thinned it out but in the end I'm happy, though if I had a large
enough oven I would of loved to powder coat
Took me about 1.5 years. No engine work was done just rebuilt the carbs
and painted the engine. Nice running/riding machine.
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A video slide I put together of the restore.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G71o8iJ3SoQ&feature=youtu.be
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Sorry joking you are not correct blinking light mean cat damaging misfire. You
should have it correct ASAP or the raw fuel will damage the cat and then you
start getting p0420 or p0421 codes. Have it scanned at a autoparts store you
should have miss fire codes stored
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Blinking check engine light means your dumping raw fuel into the cat. I'm sure
it was running ruff along with the blinking light. There should be pending or
history codes if the light isn't on. If it's conventional ignition cap rotor
plugs and wires should correct the issue some Chevy engines
On Friday, December 6, 2013 7:44:12 PM UTC-5, Greg wrote:
> Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the engine off of a 91 750
> nighthawk? Is there a trick, or a certain side to tilt the engine to? Does it
> require the valve cover removal? Thanks in advance!
Sould be able to take it out i
Ok I follow now, check your clutch fluid level sounds like air master or slave
could be starting to leak. Do you have a service manual?
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You first said you winterized the bike then noticed this issue. What did you
do during this process? I would believe you changed the oil and added fuel
treatment, please list all work. Lets us know what kind of oil you used
(weight of oil and brand). Was it a motorcycle specific oil for wet
I take it this is while the bike is not running? Sometimes with the bike off
you have to roll the bike forward and backwards to get the syncros to move on
the shafts or they won't mesh easy when trying to change gears.
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I'm running the battlax 45 on my VFR700F2 and my nighthawk 700s they preform
well in my opinion. Cold rainy weather I take it easy, I only had the front
slide once on a bridge in the rain on a painted arrow during heavy braking on
the VFR. Colder weather they feel a little squirrelly on turns
1984 CB700SC cranks fine cold, starts right up, hot on the other hand it
kinda sounds like it kicks back and struggles to pull it threw compression
stroke. I thought it was the CDI acting up hot but its the starter (I'm
guessing) the lights will dim down on the dash and you can tell it is
draw
Seafoam would do something but its not oil based. Motor oil, tranny fluid
or Marvel Mystery oil, . Pull the plugs, some drops in each cylinder
(leave the plugs out) crank it over until the oil light turns off (means
you built up oil pressure and everything should have oil going to it) put
the
Its the CDI, now I get to roll the dice on a used module on ebay.
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I have to wait for some carb parts to show up, I dropped one of the choke
arms to pull the plunger and cant find it, and then when moving the bench
away from the wall one of the vacuum diaphragms with needle hit the floor
and took the tip of the needle out (second time I have done that) found th
1984 Honda CB700SC
Bike has been doing pretty good (minus the issue with the fork seals). Put
maybe about 250 miles on her after the rebuild.
Anyway, I ran the tank down pretty low (tank is clean), however it acted
funny the next day, like a lean throttle hang. Picked up some gas and
seeme
Sad to say the bike has been sitting, forks still leaking (no air pressure
in forks) tried the sealmate a few times, I believe the problem is the
cheap-o unknown brand fork seals compounded with the pitted/rusted
stanchions. However the forks I found on ebay for 85 dollars, seem to be
in good
Yeah there is some rust and very light pitting on the fork stanchion, but
just sitting there, it keeps forcing the ATF fluid out of the forks. I did
set the fluid level to the correct specs with the stanchion fully down and
used a motion pro fork level tool. I may pick up another set of forks
Ok so you know I rebuild a 84 CB700sc, and part of that rebuild was
tracking down some forks. At the time the only set on ebay that was not
bent did have some rust and pits in the slide area. I did clean it up with
some autosol and removed all trace of that compound. The seal kit I used
incl
It was luck Paul, maybe for both her and I, really didnt feel up to cracking
the engine open. Then luck ran out a few weeks later when her landrover
freelander jumped timing and bent all the intake valves... That was a fun job.
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No cam chain rattle that I've noticed.
KiwinPA you are correct it is the fairing without the petcock.
On another note. The throttle is sticking and tracked it down to a bad pull
cable, tried lubing it a few times, better but still doesn't snap back like
it should. I can't seem to track dow
Seated on the bike, it would be the right side sir.
> which side? Graham
>
> On Aug 25, 2013, at 9:00 AM, *jman...@gmail.com* wrote:
>
> I'll give that a try, KiwinPA its a 1984 Honda CB700SC "Nighthawk S"
>>
>
>
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>
> I might put the decals back on, however I'd have to clear coat them to
> protect them, and from my understand you can only clear over a base if it
> hasn't cured so it will cross link and bond to the paint, don't know how
> that would work on the decals though
>
Kurt did you notice m
Thank you for the compliments :)
Yes I used KBS motorcoat, sodablasted the engine then used the wash and
prep stuff in the KBS kit. Laid it on using an HVLP gun vs the brush they
give you (though they claim it will flow out). I used the eastwood polish
kit that works with a drill to bring ba
>
> Yes nighthawkin, she does run after doing a proper rebuild on the carbs
> and the starter. 38k on the OD, she was crashed, bent forks, front rim,
> and handle bars. The frame was rusting, did a full tear down (except the
> engine) and painted everything replace bent items. Started anothe
>
> Hmmm, wonder if its too large, everything seems to be working on my end if
> I click each link.
>
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Just some random pics of my project, not a proper restore but not bad.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/2011-11-07163610-1.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/2011-12-04145744.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/2011-11-26093200.jpg
http://i15
Just some random pics, purchased the bike for 100 bucks and did the best I
could to make her look nice, not a proper restore but not bad.
[URL=http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Jman2343/media/2011-11-07163610-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/2011-11-07163610-1.jpg
>
> I'll give that a try, KiwinPA its a 1984 Honda CB700SC "Nighthawk S"
>
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>
> My sister had one, in town driving shakes you (single cylinder) also she
> lost second gear on it. The Harley dealer stated it would have to be
> opened up, she had me check it out instead. I was thinking maybe the pawl
> or and adjustment (which would most likely affect other gears), onc
Doing some searching, maybe not digging deep enough or using wrong key
words. I have a side panel missing two of the mounting tabs, I do have a
plastic repair stuff with a molding bar, but didn't know if there was a
better way to repair these.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jma
>
> LMAO, looked at the service manual again, and noticed in the photos the
> wrench for the axle nut is close to the wheel. Guess what I did, I
> installed the nut backwards which being the threads are towards the middle,
> it can be done lol. And that changes the 1/2inch spacing *sigh*
>
I can take some pictures if needed but here is the run down.
1984 Honda CB700SC Nighthawk S
The bike was crashed. Front forks bent.
Found some fork tubes.
Have service manual, swapped tubes following all steps.
Replaced front wheel, and new bearings (old rim was bent)
The problem is th
Yeah however you can prob the fuses directly remember to have the key on. I'm
sure the battery is fine the engine has its own ground because of the rubber
engine mounts.
I'm guessing green is the color for wire harness ground. On my 84 cb700 the
tie the main harness ground to the frame at t
So no power to any systems, probing the fuse panel you have no voltage? Also
disconnect Ing switch plug and probe for + is it there?
If you do have + at fuse I would probe say headlight socket ground should be
green wires and see if it shows + battery voltage if so your chassis ground is
the
A cheap-o test light might help :) go ground it and go threw your fuse panel.
Also if its anything like my 84 700sc the starter relay distributes power +.
So even if its fuse is good it could be bad simply disconnect the 4 pin
connector and prob the pins with the test light
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Thanks for all the options and offers and tips :) Hopefully I can give
back to the forum.
I was looking around on Ebay and spotted a set of used forks for 100 bucks
with a make an offer option. Put in an offer for 40 bucks and it was
accepted (plus shipping of 23 dollars) so 63 bucks. The
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/IMG_0184_zpseaed13ff.jpg
On Sunday, January 13, 2013 9:36:32 AM UTC-5, jman...@gmail.com wrote:
> Have a 84 CB700sc Nighthawk "S" I've been working on for the past year.
> However I ran into a little issue, the front fork
Thank you guys! I'll keep moving along on the restore and hopefully come
across some good used forks, or just the tubes. The triple tree (yoke)
seems ok just the forks bent back right at the lower clamp.
[IMG]http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/Jman2343/IMG_0184_zpseaed13ff.jpg[/IM
Have a 84 CB700sc Nighthawk "S" I've been working on for the past year.
However I ran into a little issue, the front forks are bent, and now I
can't seem to find any on Ebay that are straight. Any suggestions or used
for forks for sale? :) thank you.
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