Yes. We live in a beautiful state. So many roads, so little time
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So, between Milwaukee and Madison, huh?
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To post t
>
> 4) They always go to the right when you lock up the rear, I think it is
> because you inadvertently shift your weight when you press the lever. You
> can counter steer, or just pump it while staying hard on the fronts.
>
Interesting Allen, I never thought about this fact. I bet it has to do wit
To answer your questions:
1) I would think so but don't have a bike to physically check.
2) you can get clutch cable parts and make your own. Then look on YouTube
for a video of how to solder them. Let me know if you have trouble finding
anything and I'll help you get what you need.
4) They always
1. I know a simple way to find out, but maybe Graham can answer that.
2. True.
4. The back tire will definitely break loose and skid if you lock up the
back wheel.
7. You have to take off the back seat.
I've done 620 miles in one day twice. I don't really want to do it again.
While you are waiti
Ditto on the kudos. You guys are great. Thanks all for the advice.
Problem is that one sentence leads to a question, and on and on.
1. Does the left muffler also have that drainage hole? (still waiting on
the Clymer's)
2. If you go to a stainless steel brake line, then you would not have to
worr
David your carbs are pretty dirty. Mine was doing the same thing during
cold weather when I got it. In fact if I turned off the choke it would Bog
down if I ran it below 4k for any length of time. Once you clean them set
the needles around 3- 3 1/4 turns out, and definitely do the washer mod.
There
The carb washer mod is VERY easy and can be done in less than 30 mins. Don't
be afraid to try. As easy to remove and costs a couple of bucks at most. Google
it.
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Bar risers are one important mod I forgot. Unfortunately, you can only put
a 1" straight riser on the bike without changing the clutch cable and brake
hose, and maybe the accelerator cables and choke cable as well. And even
with the 1" riser, I had to roll the handlebars toward the front because
You guys are great.
Thank-you all again for a welcome introduction.
The best bike is your own. For my kind of travel, lighter is better. In the
above pic, that is all I carried for three weeks. The DR weighs a 100
lbs.less than the NH. Less stuff means less to lose and is easier to keep
track of.
Watch out: my posts are almost always too long.
My best additions to my Nighthawk have been (in no order) a cramp buster,
throttle lock, Plexifairing 3, highway pegs, and 17-tooth front sprocket.
You might try the thing where you drain the bowls, fill them with Seafoam,
run it a second to get
Dave, mixture as you know, is fuel to air. Cold air is more dense, so you
would have a leaner mixture in cold weather. I would be surprised if that is
enough to feel, but at some point, it must be. You could be there. Since the
pilot screws (at least on my 650 and 700S) adjust idle mixture,
nal park Iron But or around the world. How
>> far can Russian be from Polish?
>> Saludos,
>> David
>>
>>
>> Sent from my HTC
>>
>> - Reply message -
>> From: "EGrider"
>> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>> Subje
sage -
> From: "EGrider"
> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: New to the Group
> Date: Sun, Nov 29, 2015 7:09 AM
>
> The ride to Patagonia has been on my bucket list for a while. I've put a
> little research i
The ride to Patagonia has been on my bucket list for a while. I've put a
little research into it, and I've actually rented bikes for 3-day rides in
Peru and Bolivia to see what it's like. I also did Patagonia in a car last
year. If I didn't have to have my daughter along now, I would be riding
Sorry, Dave, but what sort of canvas bag over the rear that needs the sissy
bar removed were you talking about? I was thinking that the sissy bar would
make it easier to put a bag on it, although not a top case.
Just clicked over 50K miles on my NH750 today and it goes and goes and
goes. I wou
Excellent, thanks for the replies.
Awaiting Clymer's, battery tender, and engine guards.
Will have winter to explore her other parts.
On Saturday, November 21, 2015 at 9:09:02 AM UTC-6, David Basinski wrote:
> Just purchased a 2003 CB750 with 10K miles in mint condition to keep my
> Suzuki DR
I've upgraded all the sorts of things on my 96 (Progressive Shocks and
front Springs, LED bulbs, center stand, seat...) In my opinion the #1
thing you should do is replace the stock seat with a Corbin. It changes
the riding position and is so much better. There's one on eBay that looks
reall
How I set chain slack is:
1. Find the tightest section of chain.
2. Adjust for about 1 inch of travel, better too loose than too tight.
3. Find the loosest section of chain and make sure it has less than 3
inches of travel. Also pull on the back of the sprocket. If you can see
light replace the set
I'm going to +1 on the sentiment that the drive chain slack is the noise
maker.
I'm sure some of the more knowledgeable here can provide the specs for
setting that. I also suggest picking up a Clymer or other service manual.
Joe
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Yeah and my wife is not that happy to begin with
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T
bject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: new to the group
Thanks Allen I have been studying the service manual and think I got A handle
on things now I just have find the funding ha ha ha
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Thanks Allen I have been studying the service manual and think I got A handle
on things now I just have find the funding ha ha ha
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If you can work on a car then these things are a walk in the park, the only
tricky part is getting them tuned since they use carbs, and even that isn't
hard once you understand their operation. Don't loose heart about going
over it well. You can easily rebuild the front end, rear end, or carbs etc.
OK cool didn't how different the mechanics were I would think in big or small
the principals would be the same I will just approach this like working on any
other vehicle
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Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: new to the group
So I haven't had a chance to look the bike over really well but I was wondering
if to see if it will turn over and run at least would it be feasible to hook a
tank up to it and see what happens if thi
So I haven't had a chance to look the bike over really well but I was wondering
if to see if it will turn over and run at least would it be feasible to hook a
tank up to it and see what happens if this was a car or truck I would but is
that going to possibly damage anything I'm not talking 5 min
I would greatly appreciate it here's my email address mastermech...@gmail.com
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hey Matt, I have a lo-res service manual pdf if you're interested in it.
It's worked pretty well for me. It's essentially a dummy guide for working
on bikes and since your an auto tech, it will be a walk in the park. Comes
with maintenance tips, all torque values and everything else you need.
I
Rebuilding the carbs is going to be on the must do list. Unless your lucky
and they were drained before it was stored, yet the float needle tips will
be shot, also the gas tank itself will be the other issue. I have a 81
CB750 that the gas was left in the tank, it turned to tar plus all the
r
And then clean them again. And synch them.
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Go ahead and blame us Canadians Kyle. Us Canadian's are such a
generous and sharing folk. -30 celcius (-22 Farnheit) this morning
as I bundled up with my Tim Horton's coffee, pulled on my mucaluks,
donned my Calgary Flames touque, topped by my beaver pelt hat and
trugged to the car. All this just
Welcome. I have a 1993 750cc Nighthawk. I have a corbin seat with
mine.
On Feb 13, 11:28 pm, Justin Credible wrote:
> Good evening all. Looks so far like I'm the baby of the bunch? I'm
> 37 and live in Washington, DC. I currently am riding a 1991 Honda
> Nighthawk 750 ( in the red color that
Eh? Whazzat ya say, sonny?Type louder, can't see what yer sayin'
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Welocme to the group. Nice looking 700! I had an 86 RWB. In 86 the
motor was completly blacked out as were the rims. I always liked the
RWB, but thought it woul look better with the unpainted head and side
covers of an 84 or 85. Now I know. Mine had rims painted flat gold...
looked great with
Wow - Amazing bike! Enjoy the ride and the addiction to your
nighthawk.
On Feb 5, 8:09 am, hppants wrote:
> Greetings Friends from South Louisiana:
>
> Just joined the group. Bought my 700s in August 2009 with 34,000
> miles and since then I've put 2,500 absolutely incredible trouble free
> m
The gear change switch itself grounds to its casing, which grounds through
the mounting screws to the side of the transmission.
-Kyle
On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 5:46 PM, Graham Rogers wrote:
>
> Dick, how would I recognise the ground for the gear change switch?
> My neutral light stays on all the
I have little doubt there is a lot of corrosion. This bike has seen
some weather in its life, for sure. I'm going to eventually have to
pull the engine to correct a loose alternator chain, but I'm putting
that off as long as I can. It looks like a REALLY big can of worms.
On Jun 9, 9:58 am, wr
the extra ground solves the symptom, but the problem is corrosion
where your engine mounts to the frame. over time the aluminum on the
engine and the steel in the frame set up a chemical reaction to one
another , the extra ground will help , but eventually it will corrode
as well. best solution
Hello
I had the same problems. I solve them by cleaning the ground connections
(inside headlamp, harness to frame) and adding a big ground wire from
engine to frame (my bike had none).
regards
JPD
At 13:20 08/06/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>Sounds like a problem with the LCD display itself. Ya'
That's a good idea, Dick. The display does act like it has a poor or
intermittent ground, and that is one thing I had thought of. I did
not realize the switch case itself was the ground for that circuit,
but it makes sense now that I have looked at the schematic more
closely. I'll try removing
Dick, how would I recognise the ground for the gear change switch?
My neutral light stays on all the time and never shows what gear I am
in on my NH700? Graham
On Jun 8, 2009, at 4:30 PM, Dick MacInnes wrote:
>
> Be sure and find and check the ground paths; one is the case of the
> gear
>
Be sure and find and check the ground paths; one is the case of the gear
change switch, another is the main ground on the frame but that affects
everything, lights, ignition, etc.
Dick MacInnes
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are su
Sounds like a problem with the LCD display itself. Ya' know how
sometimes a calculator will do the same thing when it's real old.
Keep an eye on Ebay, sometimes you can pick up a new dash unit for not
much money. Granted the odometer won't be right any more but at least
you'll know how much gas
Angela,
The Zuk is a 1981 GS750LX, with 10,047 original miles. I don't want
to go into detail here, but you may contact me at tdi_driver (at)
sbcglobal (dot) net. I will be happy to supply pics and all the
relevant details.
Thanks for asking.
On Jun 7, 9:51 pm, Angela Kennedy wrote:
> hey g
hey geister,
I couldn't help but notice you are not far from me. I'm in Detroit.
Welcome! What condition is your Suzuki in and how much are you selling it
for? Any pics?
Angela
750 NH '93
On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 3:00 PM, geisterfahrer
wrote:
>
> Hi guys and gals,
>
> My name is Kevin, and I'm in
Yes, I have. Every connection in the headlight bucket has been
cleaned and DeOxit treated, as well as almost every other one in the
wiring harness. I did most of that very early this spring to try to
correct a no-fire condition.
On Jun 7, 3:14 pm, "Creative Residential Designs"
wrote:
> Did yo
Did you remove the headlight and check the connectors behind it?
HotrodMamma.
- Original Message -
From: "geisterfahrer"
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 1:00 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] New to the group and a question
>
> Hi guys and gals,
>
> My na
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