Good news and bad. If they are of good quality they will allow more folks to
make something out of nothing. The bad news is that now anyone can "restore"
these old trucks with minimal effort. I know a bunch of you have put a lot of
blood, sweat, and tears in making something out of nothing and I
Agreed, but I just can't get a tune in my head about
having FY money as I drive down the roads in my Chevy.
I can sure hear those windshield wipers keeping time.
--- James Tye <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That sounds good on paper and makes a good song for
> Janis, but freedom can also be anot
Great story Casey!
Larry Kephart
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
1991 Jeep Wrangler (Renegade)
1993 Chrysler Concorde (BettyLou)
Boca Raton, Florida
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of fffinc_casey
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2
Hm ;
Last night my pretty girl rolled over and remeinded me : you have a
Dr's apointment saturday so don;t get all greasy working on your
truck before hand
-Nate
Larry wrote:
>
> Thanx Charlie,
>
> I've read the reviews on that book and I was worried about having
to wade
> thru too
Yes -but- make sure your torque wrench goes that high else you'll ruin
it's calibration .
Me , I just use a cheater pipe on a flex handle (often mis named
a 'breaker bar') and put both feet up against the chassis or wheel then
pull for all I'm worth , this is how all my new spring bolts got
t
_DO_ call around when you go out for these ! I did and I found one
place on a satruday that made them up for $5.00 each while I waited .
Never , _EVER_ re-thread a spring U-bolt ~ if the nut comes off
easily and the threads are good then you can re-use it .
-Nate
Gary wrote:
>
> Cut of
Yep ;
Doing a " Gandy Dance " on the end of a long cheater pipe .
Ever notice it never slips and scratches the paint unless it's a
freshly painted old VW ? .
-Nate
Billwrote:
>
> I see you've partially got further on with you installation in
later
> posts. I will comment on the to
No , you're not =8-) .
-Nate
Ken wrote:
>
> Just checking to see if I'm back on line.
>
> Thx
>
>
>
>
> Ken Cluley
> '50 3100 Deluxe
> Wichita Falls, TX
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, se
Hey, if this stuff is made in the USA lets celebrate it.I'm all for the
stuff made overseas of the highest of quality but it often isnt. My guess
is the cab has to be made here in the USA... I mean, without
reproduction parts this hobby would be nothing.If guys buying parts to
make tr
you could have even put a 3 foot cheater and a fish scale in a hole in
the end and torque to about 72 lbs. done deal.
--
Agua Dulce, Ca. So.Ca. f50 F1 streetrod 49 F1 stock V8 flathead 53
chevy 3100 AD 72 El Camino chopped 68 Mustang coupe
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send
Nate..I have noticed that whenever you reply to me it starts off with "Robert
wrote". That's cool but my name is Roy..where does the Robert come from? It
only happens when yo reply to one of my messages.
Roy
- Original Message -
From: vwnate1
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Seems like everything I do on theis truck has me asking a bunch of questions.
Anyway, I am past the torque bit...don't have to do it (Yay). I have just
loosely assembled it on the truck after reaming out the bracket holes to fit
the bigger U bolts on the 3/4 ton. As usual, the repop part isn't q
I will say that the sway bar ends do not need to be parallel to the
ground. It just needs to be in there solid; and I'd check it every
few hundred miles after installation. The sway bar on the 1965 VW
was splayed out at the ends and were not parallel to the ground. I
put in bigger one that was
WHEN WE WERE PUTTING MY FRONT ANTI SWAY BAR ON MY 52
3100, WE WERE ADVISED TO INSTALL THE BAR AS PARALLEL
TO THE HORIZONATAL AS POSSIBLE. I THINK IT HAD
SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE WEAR ON THE TIRES. LMCTRUCK
HAS A NICE WRITE UP ON THE ANTI SWAY BAR ISSUE.
ps! Sorry for the caps, Charlie in
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