Hi,
Okay, now, how you people dry your fibre based paper? on rack?
Regards,
Paul
- Original Message -
From: "Bill D. Casselberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: Drying RC Prints
> I found a plastic rack of some sort which I
At this very moment, I would vote for K1000. I know many might vote for the
LX. But as far as I can see, LX is not the most reliable Pentax 135 model.
The aluminum alloy prism housing is quite dent prone too. This is especially
noticeable when compared the LX to Nikon F3 or Canon F-1. Super A/P
Have any of you used the LX Bulk Film Magazine? I have not ever seen one
for sale and I was wondering about opinions and if there are any still
around. Thank you for your time.
Bryan
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I just hang mine up over the bathtub using one of those plastic clothes pins that
has a coat hanger handle. I hang it by the very end of one corner. I leave a lot
of white around the edges of my prints
so even if occasional there is a little mark on the edge of the paper it is well
clear of the
Jan van Wijk wrote:
>
> Another question for the Brotherhood :-)
>
>
> Question:
> Is it really true that the 67 with standard lens (say 2.4 105mm) must be used
> on a tripod all the time to get sharp images ?
Absolutely not. I use my 6x7 hand held more often than not. It is no
more difficult t
> See: http://digilander.iol.it/pentaxday/pday71e.htm
> In that same page, you'll also see a preview of the "Pentax 50
> years" poster, just released.
That's an impressive poster, Dario. Very, very nice.
I just had this thought cross my mind, though: Wouldn't it be sad
if 2002 passed without
I use the clamp on hood from a 28/3.5 SMC Tak screw mount lens. It's not
quite as deep as one could use with the 35, but it's a great hood, and
it seems to provide sufficient coverage under most conditions.
Paul
Alan Chan wrote:
>
> >Advice sought regarding an effective hood for the M35/2. I see
In my own experience, my most reliable Pentax body has been my PZ-1.
Christmas present in 1995; used for most of my paying assignments and all
travel since. In October 1998 I had the baseplate replaced because there was
a crack in it, next to the battery compartment door. (Didn't affect anythin
In a message dated 5/26/2002 9:26:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Also, choose the right body for the situation. If you're going to be
> working in a dusty or wet environment, be sure your camera is well
> sealed against the elements. Going rafting? Maybe the WR90 po
Bruce Dayton wrote:
> "Catching the Curl" - Paul Stenquist
> My, oh my! Catching this kind of action with a 67! Paul, you inspire
> me to try more things with mine. I would love to hear more details on
> how you went about this image. Great job!
Well, you certainly won't have to ask twice :-
I found a plastic rack of some sort which I just lean up
in the tub. Whip 'em out of the rinse tub and slap 'em
on there for a while 'til most water has run off. Then they
go off into the bedroom where I lean 'em up against the bed-
covers, all bunched up i
Wheatfield wrote:
> Something to think about:
> If you shoot large format, especially 8x10 or larger, all you
> need is a lightbulb hanging from a wire, and a few trays.
True, a thermometer and a Timex Indiglo would be useful
additions, though;^)
Bill
Gee Bill, you don't adjust the rectangle, The adapter/step ring part
gets adjusted, and it remains pretty tight. I've never had the problem
you've described, and the hood's often used with a filter.
BTW, why do you always indent when you write email messages?
"Bill D. Casselberry" wrote:
>
>
Rolleiflex TLR
Now, seriously: I seriously doubt there's a camera that would live
through *all* those places; what one probably needs in conditions like
those is a good redundancy/backup equipment. Check out
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/backups.html
Just my 0.02
Best,
Mishka
> From: Jonat
My Leicas, Pentax MX, Pentax Spotmatic F, LX in no particular order and
depending on the subject and situation. Of course there are some points
to consider here. The LX are new, the MX is mint and has been recently
looked over, the Spot F has recently been CLAd and checked, as have the
Leicas.
David Brooks wrote:
[snip]
> grabbed the one K1000 i thought was
> empty and popped the back Arr,a
> roll of 160vc still in it(about 25-27 shot)
>
> Quiry,Is the whole roll kaput or would some of
> the pictures in the takeup spool be ok.Back was
> open for about 2 sec as i s
Shel wrote:
> Although my Bow-Wow is gone, the woofer's hood is used on the K20/4.0,
> and there's not been any problems using filters with it and getting
> things to line up properly. What problems have you had?
Oh - when all parts are threaded tight the rectangle is
off-ang
If i was taking Pentax gear on this soft of trip i would probaly take an LX
and MX or if i need an AF body i'd replace the MX with an MZ-3.
The LX for its dust sealing and general robustness.
The MX because its fully mechanical and sometimes LXs can be a little flakey
:)
MZ-3 as the 5n and 3 seem
Hello,
I know some of you hate having the original thought
stream of a thread de-railed, so I am giving this
query a new subject line. I have been following the
ZX-5N in Africa discussion, and wanted the groups
opinions concerning which Pentax bodies are the most
durable. Which ones a
The Albuquerque Botanical Garden has installed a butterfly pavilion, so
off I went today with my FA 100 mm. f2.8 macro and Sigma APO 70-300
f4.0-5.6 macro. The critters were a bit skittish for close-ups, so off
came the 100 mm. and on went the Sigma. It has 1:2 macro at 300 mm. and
does pretty wel
- Original Message -
From: David Brooks
Subject: OT:I do not believe I did this!!!
Arr,a
> roll of 160vc still in it(about 25-27 shot)
The other day, I was opening a single use camera when the film
cassette jumped out of my hand and hit the floor. The end popped
off and the
> "Statue in Berlin" - Joseph Tainter
> This is a great example of how important lighting is in making a great
> photograph. As Joseph stated, he walked past without hardly noticing
> until the lighting was so powerful and dramatic. The combination of
> strong lighting from the right and the dir
Most of them should be okay. Same thing happened to me today. A customer
asked me to remove the film from her camera. I didn't realize it didn't
have auto rewind and opened the back to see an unrewound, exposed roll of
Max 400. Closed the back, rewound, processed. Only lost the last 3 frames.
- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff
Subject: Re: Kodak Portra?
> Heck, when I had a little place back in 1972, I couldn't even
use the
> bathroom, but I figured out a way to use an Omega D2V-XL in my
kitchen,
> which I could make light tight, and I built a small wet sink
in the ro
In a message dated 5/26/2002 7:38:13 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Hi,
>
> Just wondering people go about drying their RC prints? I have been placing
> mine in a little rack that is ment for files. But this is really only good
> for
> up to 8x10s.
>
>
I hang 11x1
- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones
Subject: Drying RC Prints
> Hi,
>
> Just wondering people go about drying their RC prints?
I hang em by their corners from a clothsline.
William Robb
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There is probably some fogging on the edges of each frame, but with
25-27 shots on the takeup spool, you can probably salvage the heart of
a good many of the shots. I am like Shel, though, I won't tell you how
I know. ;-)
On Sunday 26 May 2002 04:54 pm, you wrote:
> David Brooks wrote:
> > gr
Re 67 film economy: I was referring to 10 shots per 120 roll with 67 as opposed to 15
or 16 with 645. It makes a difference to some people.
As for printing, a roll of 120 print film is around $6Cdn, while developing and
sleeving is $4Cdn. With 4x5 prints, it's around $10, but for an extra $5
I just got my first set of chromes back with the 400/4 (old), and I'm very
happy. Don't have much to compare it to, but seemed very nice wide open and
with the Pentax 2x.
R
- Original Message -
From: "J. C. O'Connell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 200
Reminds me of a comment that was made Robert Capa to another
photojournalist upon seeing a new photographer decked out with numerous
cameras: "Think of all the pictures he won't be able to take."
John Coyle wrote:
>
> Thanks to the generosity of Shel, you can now see the photograph to
> which
Thanks Shel,I won't ask
Dave
Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/index.html
http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
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Hi Bill ...
Although my Bow-Wow is gone, the woofer's hood is used on the K20/4.0,
and there's not been any problems using filters with it and getting
things to line up properly. What problems have you had?
"Bill D. Casselberry" wrote:
> Having never seen the 35mm hood, I thought of th
Frank Cory et all.I have used some 400CN andthe
replacement the Black and White Select + and
have it printed on colour paper as 'proofs'then
pick the ones i think would look good in B&W
and have them print out on the proper
paper.Some times the 'sepia' effect makes a
better picture IMHO
Dav
Recently my brother did something like this and only about 5-6 pictures were
destroyed, so there is hope.
Lukasz
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of David Brooks
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 2:44 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: OT:I do not bel
Often some pictures can be saved. Don't ask how I know
David Brooks wrote:
>
> grabbed the one K1000 i thought was
> empty and popped the back Arr,a
> roll of 160vc still in it(about 25-27 shot)
>
> Quiry,Is the whole roll kaput or would some of
> the pictures in the takeup spool
Attended our barns big 3 day show for the year
and,the one i get most of my yearbook pictures
for,and i did a Boo Boo.
I thought i'd be smart and load 2 K1000's with
Portra 160 and 400VC to take advantage of the
changibg sun/cloud conditions.
WELL,the weather was very overcast this AM and
i t
Hi,
Just wondering people go about drying their RC prints? I have been placing
mine in a little rack that is ment for files. But this is really only good for
up to 8x10s.
Regards,
Paul
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Shel wrote:
> The one that clamps around the lens barrel is for the 28/3.5, and, I
> think for the 24/3.5. Paul's description of the 35mm rectangular Takumar
> hood is correct. You're correct that it's similar to the Bow-Wow hood,
> but it's not a two-piece setup.
Hmmm, yes - I had m
Bill D. Casselberry wrote:...
"one of the old Takumar rectangular metal hoods from the 35mm or even the
28mm would be peachy."
I'd have to agree. It's way cool--you thread on the circular portion, then
rotate the rectangular portion into position. If you don't insist on
covering your hood with
Nikon HN-3 threaded metal circular hood with 49-52mm step-up ring. The HN-3
is on EBay all the time, cheap. It was designed for the 35/2 and 43-85 zoom.
The similar HN-2 (52mm filter) was designed for the 28/2 and 35/2. So it's
a bit less shallow. Check the photos on EBay and see which you pref
Jan,
Hopefully I can give you some good thoughts as I went through this
very dilemma a while back when I got my MF camera. The store that I
bought from carried both 67 and 645 and I must have gone in there a
dozen times trying out both bodies.
Heres how I looked at it. Why am I considering MF?
Developing tank and reel(s) - $25.00
Developer - $3.00
Stop - $5.00?
Fix - $5.00
Photoflo or LFN (Wetting Agent) - $5.00
Clips to hang film to dry - free to $10.00
Dark room for loading film - Free
A pair of scissors - I'm sure you've got a pair somewhere
Negative sleeves - $5.00
Some of these i
Hello,
I apologize for not replying to you earlier, since I'm still so busy in
setting up some details for the upcoming Pentax Day, to take place
next weekend in Florence.
See: http://digilander.iol.it/pentaxday/pday71e.htm
In that same page, you'll also see a preview of the "Pentax 50 years"
po
I wasn't suggesting using a minilab for printing real B&W. If you can't
print the negs yourself, then find a real lab that can do the printing
for you. I'd never suggest a minilab for making a decent B&W print.
Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> Only problem is, if you're getting minilab prints, and they
Shel,
Is there a list somewhere of what would be minimal to process your own
black and white? Something like a shopping list of supplies?
Bruce
Sunday, May 26, 2002, 3:49:38 AM, you wrote:
SB> Hi Cory, Frank ...
SB> Why don't you guys just spent $25.00 or so and buy a developing tank and
Pat White wrote:
> Economy-wise, ... If you shoot a lot, the 6x7 uses more film;
> that may or may not matter to you. Hope this helps.
I find the 6x7 very economical to use. I get 120 films from
B&H at an average $4/roll. (Kodak E100vs & Fuji Provia 400f).
Send-out p
Sorry William,
This is a k-mount reverse adapter, meant to allow you to mount any
lens with a 52mm front lens thread to be mounted backwards on a k-mount
camera. Useful for macros w/ 50's.
Illinois Bill
William Robb wrote:
>
> Sorry for the eBay post, but this one is a bit strange. It
> ap
Sounds like you had a good time, Frank. Good job you had lots of film. Were you
getting fuzzy images after the brewery tour? Doors Open Toronto is pretty neat. For
non-Torontonians, it's an annual event where interesting places normally closed to the
public are opened for the weekend. I fi
Actually, the 6x7 works just fine hand-held, although it is pretty heavy. Because of
the big neg, you can use faster film (with Fuji NPH 400, the grain is invisible in an
8x10), so you can often shoot at 1/250 or 1/500. At those speeds, with lenses up to
short telephoto, say 200mm, camera sh
- Original Message -
From: tom <
Subject: RE: Kodak Portra?
>
> Just out of curiousity, how long does it take you to print a
roll of
> 36 4x6's?
Dry to dry, with no redos, we can get a roll through the lab in
just under 20 minutes.
If the roll requires more colour corrections, and redo
Sunday, May 26, 2002, 7:58:21 AM, Darryn wrote:
DR> Advice sought regarding an effective hood for the M35/2. I seen to recall a
DR> recent post recommending the Pentax hood from a 50mm. And a long time ago
DR> there was a post regarding Nikon hoods and this lens or similar. Any
DR> suggections wel
Woah, crash is EVERYWHERE!
-Mat
RPI alum, and sometime crash wannabe
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a recent post I used the words "pock" and "eit"; the origin and
> meaning of "pock" came up shortly thereafter on the mailing list
> where I learned both words years ago, so if anybody's the least
On Sunday, May 26, 2002, at 06:49 AM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> Why don't you guys just spent $25.00 or so and buy a developing tank and
> a reel or two, get some chemicals, and start processing your own B&W -
> the real stuff?
Only problem is, if you're getting minilab prints, and they're coming
In a message dated 5/26/2002 9:35:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Darryn wrote:
>
> > Advice sought regarding an effective hood for the M35/2.
>
> if it takes 49mm filters, one of the old Takumar rectangular
> metal hoods from the 35mm or even the 28mm would
On Sunday, May 26, 2002, at 11:17 AM, David Chang-Sang wrote:
> It does not have
> the strange blue/purple cast that Ilford XP2 has.
This is because those particular labs do have a channel for Portra B&W
and do not have a channel for XP2. It is not inherently the nature of
the film. Just li
On Saturday, May 25, 2002, at 03:09 PM, Oliver Raymond wrote:
> you would have to meet anyone outside of customs , and it can take 50
> minutes to 'move' terminals, including further customs checks!
Bah. I figured as much.
Sorry, London PDMLers, I would have liked to have met'cha! I guess I'
Thanks for the list, Frantisek! Between this and the off-list message
from Petr Pazour (thanks, Petr!), I'll be in good shape, I think.
On Friday, May 24, 2002, at 06:04 PM, Frantisek Vlcek wrote:
> Enjoy it here. If you like, I can think of some nice places to
> recommend visiting not of eve
On Friday, May 24, 2002, at 06:11 PM, William Robb wrote:
> I have never run into a short exposure reciprocity problem. I am
> pretty sure that consumer flash equipment isn't capable of
> giving a short enough duration discharge.
> Some of the specialized short burst studio lights probably are
>
On Saturday, May 25, 2002, at 12:17 PM, William Robb wrote:
> Are you worried about the baggage retrieval system?
That song scares me. I think we're going to try to fit everything into
our carry-on. ;)
-Aaron
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PE> You may wish to restrict yourself to 6x7 unless you do all your own
PE> printing. I am travelling to the UK in September and am taking my Moskva 5
PE> along for the ride. I contacted one mail order lab that offered to develop
PE> E6, then scan and print from the transparencies. The largest for
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
>
> What I have found is, the less they pay, the higher their
> expectaions seem to be. I don't understand it myself. Well,
> actually, I do understand it, but my thoughts on the subject ar
I am concerned that though the topic is specifically about Portra B&W, all
the chatter coming back appears to be mostly about other C41 B&W films and
the color casts experienced with them. This is not the same film. I've used
the other films, "Kodak Black and White +400 Film" for example, and seen
I recieved this email this morning. I am assuming that
my webpage was discovered by these folks and their prospect
seems interesting. My question is "Does this magazine exist
and, in your opinion, is their contact info a valid address?"
thanks for any insi
- Original Message -
From: tom
Subject: RE: Kodak Portra?
> >
> > It is really dificult to get perfectly neutral results with
the
> > pseudo B&W films on colour paper. For 5 bucks a roll, they
have
> > to accept they are not getting custom colour balanced
prints.
>
> Exactly! What do yo
- Original Message -
From: Amita Guha
Subject: RE: Kodak Portra?
> > Does this stuff look any better when printed at minilabs
> > than the films more
> > easily available (like at Target & Wal-Mart)?
>
> I recently took some C-41 b&w film to Target (can't remember
which
> brand) and they
Hey Hey..
One of my FAVOURITE films to use !! :) (or "favorite" for you American
folk - Happy Memorial Day Weekend!!)
Here's my experience with Kodak Portra BW:
I've only had it processed at camera stores. In the Toronto area, Downtown
Camera and Japan Camera do a wonderful job with this film.
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
>
>
> It is really dificult to get perfectly neutral results with the
> pseudo B&W films on colour paper. For 5 bucks a roll, they have
> to accept they are not getting custom colour bala
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Amita Guha
>
>
> > Does this stuff look any better when printed at minilabs
> > than the films more
> > easily available (like at Target & Wal-Mart)?
>
> I recently took some C-41 b&w film to Target (ca
At 08:25 5/26/2002 -0400, frank theriault wrote:
>I've only used C41 b&w once (it was Ilford, I can't remember the exact
>type), and I hated the blue/purple cast from the minilab. Said I'd never
>use the crap again.
Must be XP2, all the others are from Kodak (T400 CN, B&W+, Portra 400 B&W).
I
- Original Message -
From: Robert Woerner
Subject: Re: Kodak Portra?
> Hi,
>
> I've shot the Kodak 400 C-41 B&W( the kind you buy at Target,
WalMart, etc.)
> and had it printed on B&W paper. It looks great. Only problem
is I lose the
> "savings" and "convenience" of C-41 due to the cost
ww wrote:
> how good optically is this lens
I don't know - but there is a distinct possibility that
you will be out $350 and not want to show *anyone* the
pictures. Kalimar is not a highly regarded brand by anyone
except the NYC retail shops that flog them.
> Does this stuff look any better when printed at minilabs
> than the films more
> easily available (like at Target & Wal-Mart)?
I recently took some C-41 b&w film to Target (can't remember which
brand) and they couldn't get the tone right. They kept trying and I
ended up with one sepia toned, on
Sure there is ... you'll get to learn a new skill, have greater control
over your work and the quality of your work, save a little time as
compared to running to the lab, and, once you've got the negatives done,
and have learned to read them, you can then have specific negatives
printed at a bette
Jan van Wijk wrote:
> Another question for the Brotherhood :-)
> I more or less came to the conclusion that a 67 (or 67II) with
> a 45 and 90 (or 105) would be a very good kit for landscapes,
> and with a longer lens added also usable for other nature subjects.
Yes - that is a vali
Prints from Save On Drugs (one 5 pack) appear identical in quality to those
I get from Pro Photo Connection (four 5 packs). Black & White with no
discernable color cast, YMMV. Color sensitivity seems very flat across the
spectrum, much flatter than most regular B&W films. Consider using a green
fi
- Original Message -
From: Jan van Wijk
Subject: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67
> Question:
> Is it really true that the 67 with standard lens (say 2.4
105mm) must be used
> on a tripod all the time to get sharp images ?
No. I routinely shoot hand held, with no problems with lenses
WEll, I guess it's because my mother-in-law doesn't like looking at
negatives. I was THIS close to doing just what you suggested a couple
months ago but decided that without the ability to print the stuff, there
was no sense in developing it myself.
Cory
- Original Message -
From: "Shel B
WEll, I guess it's because my mother-in-law doesn't like looking at
negatives. I was THIS close to doing just what you suggested a couple
months ago but decided that without the ability to print the stuff, there
was no sense in developing it myself.
Cory
- Original Message -
From: "Shel B
Hi,
I've shot the Kodak 400 C-41 B&W( the kind you buy at Target, WalMart, etc.)
and had it printed on B&W paper. It looks great. Only problem is I lose the
"savings" and "convenience" of C-41 due to the cost of having it printed on
B&W paper. I may as well shoot HP5 or TriX Pan(and do) becaus
- Original Message -
From: TM <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 7:53 AM
Subject: Motor Drive problems
My Drive A does the same thing in cold weather, but it is fine
in warm. I expect it needs a CLA.
William Robb
> I finally had the opportunity to t
Darryn wrote:
> Advice sought regarding an effective hood for the M35/2.
if it takes 49mm filters, one of the old Takumar rectangular
metal hoods from the 35mm or even the 28mm would be peachy.
I use my 28mm hood for my 35mm SuperTak w/ good result.
Bill
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CBWaters
>
>
> I've been told you can have the C41 stuff re-printed on B&W
> paper and get
> good results. I'm not inclined, however, to pay to have my
> pictures (such
> as they are) printed when I KN
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CBWaters
>
>
> I was at a wedding today. The reception was at another location,
> immediately after the ceremony. The Bride & Groom left as
> soon as their
> photos were done and went directly to the
On Sun, 26 May 2002, frank theriault wrote:
> I'm wondering if the cast is inevitable from minilabs, but if you get
> it printed on B&W paper maybe it works? Anyone else out there know
It's possible for minilabs to print the chromogenic stuff on colour paper
so that it looks very close to black
Jan wrote:
>Question: Is it really true that the 67 with standard lens (say 2.4 105mm)
>must be used on a tripod all the time to get sharp images ?
Regardless of what's true or not; you need more of a tripod with the 67
than the 645 adding to the bulk. Now we are at the main differences betw
how good optically is this lens
i shoot wildlife so the distance would be great and the cost at $350us is also
good
i would like to know cos it seems cheap for what it is.
thanks
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Anyone ever use the subject lens? I'm talking about
the older one without the ED glass. Is it as sharp
as the the 200 and 300 SMCTs? I'm concerned about
chromatic distortion I read about with the 600mm F4.
Is it better than the 200 with a 2X? Any input
would be appreciated.
JCO
-
This message is f
Thank you William and Timothy for your advice.
Oscar Stanchi
La Plata, Argentina
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Another question for the Brotherhood :-)
As you might know, I have been looking into the 67 system the last few months
mainly to improve image quality for my landscape and nature photography.
I more or less came to the conclusion that a 67 (or 67II) with a 45 and 90 (or 105)
would be a very good
>Advice sought regarding an effective hood for the M35/2. I seen to recall a
>recent post recommending the Pentax hood from a 50mm. And a long time ago
>there was a post regarding Nikon hoods and this lens or similar. Any
>suggections welcome.
http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.c
Jostein
http://oksne.net
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A few weeks ago I bought and installed SuSE linux 8.0, Kmail1.4 came
with it. It is amazing what is included in the three CD ROM's. GIMP was
there as well. I have a boot manager, so I can choose between Linux and
WindowsME. I find myself more and more on Linux. The hardware support
for my film
Jostein
http://oksne.net
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