From:
Rebekah
>> >Silver is a cumulative toxin like mercury.
>>
> >I don't think it's such a good idea to pour used fixer down the drains.
> Where would you take it then? I've heard that lots of places that
> "dispose" of liquid waste like used oil just pour it down the drain
> too. Is there
Thanks Paul.
I might just go back to doing my own and saving a drive downtown. Its
a 100 km round trip from here to the store and i can only get there on
certain Saturdays. Right now its three trips, so if i can make only
two...
Dave
On 9/8/07, Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Tma
Tmax developer seems to last a long time. I used some from a bottle
that was three or four years old. Seemed fine. Works well on tri-x or
faster film.
Paul
On Sep 8, 2007, at 8:00 AM, David J Brooks wrote:
> On a related note. I have a bottle of Tmax developer and a bottle of
> fix, never open
On a related note. I have a bottle of Tmax developer and a bottle of
fix, never opened and about a year or year and a half old. Its on my
gadget bag table about 20 odd feet from any window, but does get the
diffused light from the windows. Do you think it would still be ok. Or
is it a nessesity to
The amount of silver in used fixer is relatively small, and silver tends
to precipitate out, used developer is probably a bigger problem, it
contains silver nitrate, which is still used medically as an
anti-biotic. Enough will "kill" a sewage system. Still you'd have to be
running a commercial
On 9/8/07, Scott Loveless <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've read that you can put the used fixer in a container with some steel
> wool. Something about the steel wool causes the silver to precipitate
> out of the solution. You can then drain off the used fixer. Not sure
> what you would do with
>I've read that you can put the used fixer in a container with some steel
>wool. Something about the steel wool causes the silver to precipitate
>out of the solution. You can then drain off the used fixer. Not sure
>what you would do with the silver. Make jewelry? There are probably
>hazardous
Rebekah wrote:
>> I don't think it's such a good idea to pour used fixer down the drains.
>> Silver is a cumulative toxin like mercury.
>>
>
> Where would you take it then? I've heard that lots of places that
> "dispose" of liquid waste like used oil just pour it down the drain
> too. Is the
John Sessoms wrote:
> From:
> Scott Loveless
>
>> Next is fixer. Depending on the film and the age of the fixer, it
>> usually takes around 5 minutes. This goes back into the bottle, too.
>> As the fixer depletes it will take longer to clear the film. So keep
>> an eye on it. There are q
>I don't think it's such a good idea to pour used fixer down the drains.
>Silver is a cumulative toxin like mercury.
Where would you take it then? I've heard that lots of places that
"dispose" of liquid waste like used oil just pour it down the drain
too. Is there a way to check?
rg2
On 9/7/0
From:
Scott Loveless
> Next is fixer. Depending on the film and the age of the fixer, it
> usually takes around 5 minutes. This goes back into the bottle, too.
> As the fixer depletes it will take longer to clear the film. So keep
> an eye on it. There are quite a few methods for determinin
Stainless spiral reels work great -- if you get the right kind. Hewes reels are
the only way to go. They load beautifully. But it's important to avoid dropping
them or banging them around.
Paul
-- Original message --
From: "Mat Maessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> On 9/
On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
> but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
You can get a film changing bag from B&H for $25 or so. Works quite
nicely, once you get the hang of loading film ont
You can also do colour with pretty much the same gear, but it has to be
done at a higher temperature, to get the temperature right it is easy to
dunk the bottles of chemicals into a sink of tap-hot water, after 10
mins the whole lot is at about the right temp, you only need to maintain
the temp
P. J. Alling wrote:
> Equipment for developing B&W film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
> (With commentary).
>
> 1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
> but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
>
> 2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel
I have an Acer 2720s film scanner for 35mm negatives and slides, (their
scanner business was bought by Benq, who dropped the product line a year
or so ago apparently), that I need to reconnect to my computer. It was
reasonably priced and reasonably specifications when I bought it. I've
been s
This information is invaluable. I'm saving it to my computer for
future reference. Thank you so much. By the way, what scanner do you
use?
rg2
On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Equipment for developing B&W film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
> (With commentary).
>
> 1. S
Equipment for developing B&W film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
(With commentary).
1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel with PVC plastic
tops, but alm
18 matches
Mail list logo
