My Snoq Passes run around 39.5mm on CR-18s. So they would fit just fine on
a Hilsen, but as previously mentioned, it depends on what rims you're
using...
Eric
On Monday, May 14, 2018 at 12:01:43 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> I'm running Snoq Extralights on my LHT. They measure 41.8mm on
+1 for a coffee table book and a plug for Stumptown Printers to be involved in
the project. Super talented folks and Eric is a big Rivendell fan.
Isaac in pdx
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This is great! What a generous gift! Thank you all for your effort of putting
these pieces of Riv history together, and for sharing to those of us who have
come to love Rivendell later in time :)
-Ana
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The problem with the seatpost only rule is that sometimes there's not
enough seatpost showing; as when you have a saddlebag attached, or a SQR
clamp, or a tail light mounted there. At least with Rivendell frames, I
doubt there is likelihood of damage by clamping seat tube or top tube,
unless you
Seatpost, always. Use a sharpie to make a discrete dot on the rear of the
post, just above the lug/clamp, to make repositioning easier. Or raise the
post a couple mm and make the dot there, so you -just- hide it on
reinsertion.
It may never happen to you, but the world is full of nice bicycles
Patrick: For MKS on a budget, the "Esprit: model is a lot wider than the
GR-9s I used to use and supports the foot better than the Sylvans. (For
$35-odd, you don't get a correct spelling of "spirit" -- that's reserved
for the more expensive models.) I didn't care for the Urbans, and quickly
sold
With RTPs, 40+PSI will get you to the Bouncy House. I run mine at 30/35PSI
(235lb rider).
rod
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Patrick: I foresee ... the beginning of a slippery slope to Look Keos and
Time XPros and what have you. Or perhaps to old Duegis and track pedals and
slotted cleats. Beware.
Seriously, I think indeed it's worth trying clips and straps, even if you
don't like them. If you can't find a pair of
I'm running Snoq Extralights on my LHT. They measure 41.8mm on Alex Adventurer
rims. Depending on how wide a rim you use, you're probably ok.
rod
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$85 shipped CONUS
Sticker a little messed up, otherwise in fine shape.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tqx4U8FBkMSYzkQF2
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I’ll suggest the soma deep two gate toe clips size large, work well with my
keen sandals, albeit only size 11.
I suspect normal toe clips are going to give you an eronious poor opinion of
what clips and straps can offer.
If your sandals are thin soled and you want to try normal height clips I
Riv geo charts list 700x43 as the max tire on my 63cm AHH. Snoqualmie is 44.
Surely 1 little ol' mm ain't gonna hurt, right? No fenders here in AZ.
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Anyone have a beat up pair of toe clips (and mounting hardware) and leather
straps I could try? I’ve got big feet (12 in summer, 14 in winter with boiled
wool socks), but wear minimalist shoes, so not sure what that means for sizing
on the toe clips. I presume bigger is better, but part of this
The new catalogue says to touch it up with Sally Hansen "Back to the Fuchsia"
nail polish, but assuming you're like me and not ready to let your paint chips
freak flag fly yet, I recommend a Testors enamel model paint kit (search on the
Amazon). I'll bet you could mix some white into the Dark
Things about fixed gear pedal retention I’ve learned so far:
— MKS bearings, even their cheapies, feel gd underfoot. Leaning toward
eventually going with the Allways pedals.
— I really like Hold Fast straps, though I’m unsure how well they’ll hold up to
my riding. Already a wee bit of
Well that was easy. Thanks
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Joe’s spot on. There are Dutch versions of this idea, but the seat is part of
the frame. Kid and wiggles stay central. Also, possible front end weight
distribution geometry issues.
The idea is good, and the challenge real. Kids are happier riding in eye
contact. Not possible in rear carriers
Hey all, Does anyone have a light blue Sam and have used something for touching
up paint chips. I looked in Target over the weekend for nail polish and just
couldn’t find a color that matched the light blue Sam. Anyone have experience
with touch up paint and could share the name of the color
The fork and rack turn with the bars, which now have a wiggly child on them.
Nope.
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I think this is probably a bad idea, but i cant quite stop thinking about
it, and can't come up with a concrete reason why it is a bad idea. Can
anyone verify that this is dumb/dangerous/won't work and that I should just
do things normally?
-Buy Crust Cargo fork https://goo.gl/images/Lavp8W
I'm a member of the top tube clamping club.
On Sunday, May 13, 2018 at 1:13:17 AM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:
>
> For those of you with a fistful of seat post exposed on your large level
> top tube bikes, what do you clamp your workstand to?
>
> I've been raising my seat post (marked with tape
I agree with Patrick the Deacon about the floor. I use a stand for installing
cables, shifters and whatnot, but big torque jobs like bottom brackets and
pedals get the floor. I have no interesting in cranking that hard on a frame or
seatpost in an itty-bitty clamp.
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In case you missed it, a number of great posts to recent studies low carb
related:
https://www.marksdailyapple.com/weekend-link-love-503/
Highlights:
Fasting promotes stem cell function, lowers oxidative stress, improves insulen
sensitivity (read EBDJ to learn what this means), and Keto is
Seat post. Every single time.
My mechanical guru, Mark Abele (of RBW) does it that way. And that's all I
need to know.
-John at Rivelo
On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 11:13:17 PM UTC-7, Paul G wrote:
>
> For those of you with a fistful of seat post exposed on your large level
> top tube bikes,
Not surprisingly, my answer is atypical. Since I floor live, I work on my bike
on the floor, either squating, half-lotus, or kneeling, the stand ends up in
the way. It now just takes up space. When the bike is on the floor, the floor
handles a lot more torque than the stand does.
With abandon,
I could probably hold my 57 Homer in my Park stand by the very top of the
seat tube. Just below that is the RBW band and the bottle cage is below
that. So, the top is the only area there to clamp it. But, I don’t do
that. I usually balance the bike in the clamp at some point on the top
tube
Seat tube all the way. Been doing that for 40 years. Finally replaced the
rock-hard plasti-dip jaw covers on the Park stand I've had all that time
with replacement rubber grips, but have never had an issue either way.
Granted I've only ever had steel frame bikes, YMMV with anything exotic. I
I use the Minoura SCA-100 Seatpost Grabber, purchased from Rivendell:
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/tools/products/minoura-sca-100-seatpost-grabber
I see that they're out of stock right now, though.
Bob E
Cranford, NJ
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Aluminum, fits Riv mid-mounts (looks like it would fit my Crust fork, too), a
couple months old. I keep trying to make headtube-level loads work for me, but
I'm just not into it.
$80 plus shipping, or trade for one thing or another.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uQkWBFedHHDQEjuu2
Joe Bernard
Selling Ahearne Map bars 570, silver. 25.4 clamp $20 plus shipping
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I use the seat tube.
On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 12:13 AM, Paul G wrote:
> For those of you with a fistful of seat post exposed on your large level
> top tube bikes, what do you clamp your workstand to?
>
> I've been raising my seat post (marked with tape beforehand) to make
I just cover the rubber clamps with a couple plastic baggies and clamp lightly
to the toptube. There's no risk of the bike sliding down so it doesn't have to
clamp tight like on a post or seattube.
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For those of you with a fistful of seat post exposed on your large level top
tube bikes, what do you clamp your workstand to?
I've been raising my seat post (marked with tape beforehand) to make room for
the clamp but that is a pain in the neck. Is it safe to clamp onto the seat
tube instead?
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